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Re: The Log Mantle Project
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHaha Jason, You had me excited, thought there was something that I could have in my shop. Imran On Mar 17, 2021, at 10:08 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
? Imran,
You clearly need a Raimann Flexirip saw. My lumber supplier just got one. I think it will take a 20" blade. Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 |
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Re: The Log Mantle Project
On 17/03/2021 01:46, imranindiana via groups.io wrote:
I would love to hear if there is a way to joint such big material and any other technique I could have used.Using a band saw with extension tables? Option 1: Lengthwise half of your mantle piece using band saw, miter at table saw and re-assemble: Cut the log lengthwise in half would, with the reference face on the band saw table would have given you enough depth of cut to reference your flat face and cut the miter. After that use domino or other doweling option to realign and glue both halves back together, referencing the flat face again. You might see it a little, but the thin kerf of a band saw blade should not show to much on a live edge IMHO. To make sure you cut nice and straight fix the reference face with screws to a board with a straight edge roughly where you want to cut. Build a simple guide like show here (), but make sure it lies flat on the table instead of suspended and that the make due guide is at the bottom with reference side facing down. This should guide your cut to be fairly straight. Make sure to feed slowly and use a blade with low tpi. Option 2a Band saw miter cut with guidance jig and auxiliary guide at fence: Make a jig with a base that has the two mitered angles at either short side, effectively making a trapeze like shape (some quick 'quick and dirtyascii art' to hopefully illustrate what I mean /____\ ). Attach a fence along the largest side of the base plate at 90 degrees. Fix the reference face against the fence of your jig, using screws (preferably), or clamps. Feed the jig with mantle piece through your band saw making sure that the 45 degree edge of the base plate of your jig rides the bar against the fence Option 2b Band saw miter cut with guidance jig and t-slot runner: Don't use the fence and the temporary guide attached to it, but make a runner at the bottom of the jig that rides the t-slot in your band saw table, make one for 45 positive and one for 45 negative angle. Note: If weight or size is an issue you might consider to first cut of a piece just a little larger than needed for the mitered angle and use a domino or other doweling option to realign and glue together all pieces (some more 'quick and dirty ascii art' to hopefully illustrate what I mean /__ |? +? |___|? + |__\ ) Option 3: Make some else do it for you as your neighbor did ;-) Kind regards, Jonathan |
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Re: West System question
Hi Glen,
Contact West Systems support. They are excellent. They know their products well and are great problem solvers.? Weldwood plastic resin glue is my go to for bent laminations. It's a powder, the catalyst is activated with water. It has a long open time, rolls easily with a foam roller. I clamp 24 hours. It cures glass hard with very minimal spring back. Jason Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 |
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Re: West System question
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýGlen, Not all boards pickup epoxy equally but depending upon how it was sawn some can pick up a lot. I have experienced this and I had to make multiple batches because it would keep sucking epoxy away. This can be bad for a lamination or a joint glue up. West System recommends a 2 step process, first being a wetting process. One can wait as long as the open time before applying the 2nd coat. If it did not get sucked away in that duration then it is likely to remain where needed for the time required to cure. I assume this is a structural element, it may be best to consult with pros. I know melamine urea formaldehyde, phenol resorcinol formaldehyde (dark color may not be desirable) and polyurethane are used by industry but not sure of conditions that guarantee the structural strength. West System does publish ASTM test results for their various products on the website but do not mention which particular ASTM test and for this reason it is hard to find test results that can be compared. Imran On Mar 16, 2021, at 11:27 PM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote:
?All, As you know I have been injecting the West System in to my totem pole for weeks now, not sure where it is going but The core of this log is a lot worse than I though. At this point I am just trying to seal up the sides so I can invert it on the the head and do a pour down the inside. That not my question, but in the time i wait for cure and to do it all again, i made the mistake of thinking. How would the West System work for lamination? I have a project coming, making some arched glue-lam rafters so to speak which I have done before and use Gorilla Glue, These are big enough that I am sure I can"t coat and clamp before the glue starts to go off. Any thoughts on the bonding strengths, outside application on trying this. Thank you all In advance as always Glen |
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Re: The Log Mantle Project
Just realized, thinking of the next step, I could have jointed the back side 90 deg with the log mounted on top of a flat board with a jointed straight edge which is just recessed enough to not have any voids.
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I have a spiral planning cutter with a bearing on bottom. After the first pass using the bottom board edge, raise the cutter and do another pass using the planned surface on first pass. Unfortunately, would still require flipping the log and the cutter for final pass. Still, not sure how well this heavy material would feed but the slider should help. Imran On Mar 16, 2021, at 8:46 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?Well yesterday I worked on the mantle I mentioned earlier seeking hanging advice. It took some time because my neighbor had miss calculated and the log was not long enough for main section and a return on each side. He had to go back and cut more off the same tree to have extra for the 2nd return. Anyhow, it was more challenging than I thought on one account, more on this later. Log was 11¡± wide, 7¡± thick and 8.5ft long with live edge front. It weighed plenty, I guess around 150#. It was not an issue to plane the bottom on jointer. I was not sure if the planer will self feed this behemoth but it did with aplomb. I did not attempt to joint the rough sawn back 90 deg to the top or bottom because I just did not think the tradition way would work even with a PF. Should I have tried holding this log face against the Dual51 fence? The largest blade (350mm) that fits my K975 would not cut anywhere near 7¡± so all cuts required 2 passes. With only 1 (somewhat) flat side to put against the xcut fence each 45 deg cut required one pass in the conventional way with the xcut fence set to 45 deg. The 2nd pass had to be done with the xcut fence installed on the opposite side of the outrigger and set to opposing 45 deg. However the material had to be placed against the opposite side of the xcut fence than conventional use. This is where I was surprised. I missed the fact that there is not enough room (between fence and blade) to fit 11¡± wide material. This would be okay with a normal blade but 350mm blade does not go below the table. So change blade and bring it up into the material. So every 45 required one cut with 300mm & the 2nd with 350mm. With not having a flat back it was very hard to get both cuts to line up. So shim here or there to get as close as possible. It turned out fine. I would love to hear if there is a way to joint such big material and any other technique I could have used. Imran <image0.jpeg> |
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Re: The Log Mantle Project
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Ameer, I can try to locate it but really there were no super details. The consensus was that French cleat is a really good way to hang it, especially if it is important to keep it tight against the wall. Oh, I forgot, David Best did shared another method in the usual David super detail way. Maybe I do need to find the thread. Here is the thread: Imran On Mar 16, 2021, at 10:46 PM, Ameer N. <highentropy@...> wrote:
?Imran, Where is the thread you posted about hanging this mantle? I'm very interested in mantle hanging techniques at the moment. thanks, Ameer |
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Re: The Log Mantle Project
Mark,
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I couldn¡¯t have done it by myself. My neighbor helped. Fortunately, I did remember to wear my back brace. Imran On Mar 16, 2021, at 9:46 PM, Mark Foster <mfsta2lt@...> wrote:
?I hope you ate your Wheaties before starting that. It¡¯s a hernia maker. Mark On Mar 16, 2021, at 17:46, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote: |
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Re: The Log Mantle Project
I hope you ate your Wheaties before starting that. It¡¯s a hernia maker.
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Mark On Mar 16, 2021, at 17:46, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote: |
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The Log Mantle Project
Well yesterday I worked on the mantle I mentioned earlier seeking hanging advice. It took some time because my neighbor had miss calculated and the log was not long enough for main section and a return on each side. He had to go back and cut more off the same tree to have extra for the 2nd return.
Anyhow, it was more challenging than I thought on one account, more on this later. Log was 11¡± wide, 7¡± thick and 8.5ft long with live edge front. It weighed plenty, I guess around 150#. It was not an issue to plane the bottom on jointer. I was not sure if the planer will self feed this behemoth but it did with aplomb. I did not attempt to joint the rough sawn back 90 deg to the top or bottom because I just did not think the tradition way would work even with a PF. Should I have tried holding this log face against the Dual51 fence? The largest blade (350mm) that fits my K975 would not cut anywhere near 7¡± so all cuts required 2 passes. With only 1 (somewhat) flat side to put against the xcut fence each 45 deg cut required one pass in the conventional way with the xcut fence set to 45 deg. The 2nd pass had to be done with the xcut fence installed on the opposite side of the outrigger and set to opposing 45 deg. However the material had to be placed against the opposite side of the xcut fence than conventional use. This is where I was surprised. I missed the fact that there is not enough room (between fence and blade) to fit 11¡± wide material. This would be okay with a normal blade but 350mm blade does not go below the table. So change blade and bring it up into the material. So every 45 required one cut with 300mm & the 2nd with 350mm. With not having a flat back it was very hard to get both cuts to line up. So shim here or there to get as close as possible. It turned out fine. I would love to hear if there is a way to joint such big material and any other technique I could have used. Imran |
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Re: Edgebanders
Hey Brett,
Do you have a good idea of how you will be using a bander? I've always glued and clamped hardwood strips, but last year I had a large frameless kitchen. I got a used hot air machine from a buddy who moved up to a glue pot machine so he could run 3mm pvc. All my boxes are Columbia veneer core prefinished maple ply. It works quite well. I set the top and bottom trimming to about .005 over, and just clean it up with a plane blade. It saved me a ton of time. I've? tried peeling a piece off, and it breaks. I was pretty impressed. Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 |
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Re: Edgebanders
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýFor production work, I outsource edgebanding to a local high volume shop that produces Ikea-like closet solutions. Production edgebanding machines are very maintenance intensive, especially if run intermittently. ??Depending on your volume, you might be a lot better off outsourcing big projects, and using a handheld bander like the Festool or the ForKa (sold by Felder and others). ?For in-house work (typically thicker hardwood banding), I devised a clamping table system that works great, but is certainly low volume. ?I have done a lot of edgebanding with that simple clamping table in conjunction with a lipping planer to trim flush after glue-up. ?Details on that are here: ??David Best https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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imran
Jason Holtz
Jonathan Martens
Mark Foster
David P. Best