Keith,
In that case be careful running after cap install. Never heard of any racket with bad caps. The motor (and cutterhead) could oscillate but usually that is not a racket. Do you have chain for feed rollers? I can see that making noise if motor was oscillating. I assume you don’t have a separate motor for feed rollers and it is one of those with urethane covered wheel. Good luck.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 14, 2021, at 5:11 PM, keith turner <keithturner01@...> wrote: ?
Thanks?Imran, yes the racket was definitely loader than a hum.
Keith?
Keith,
Glad that was easy to figure out. Was the racket more like a loud hum?
Either way if the machine is old go ahead and replace both caps. You can look for them at following. I recently got in’s from Mouser for my bandsaw.
Imran
On Mar 14, 2021, at 4:37 PM, keith turner <keithturner01@...> wrote:
?
Thank you
Keith
I know others have bought replacements of Amazon. You need to look at the writing on the casing and get the appropriate one.. a search through the posts here might come up with the values. My machines are three phase
so I don’t have the caps. Any local motor rewinding shop or electronics supply house should be able to supply replacements also.
Hi Brian
?I suspect you are right ,I started up the motor and let it get to full speed. then engaged the infeed , this ( I assume it's a capacitor) started smoking then popped out of the casing . If it is a capacitor any idea where I can pick one up ,I live in Canada
Keith
?
I suspect he has lost one or both of his capacitors. Did you hold the start button in until the motors reach full speed?
Keith,
The cutterhead would spin for a long while if the brake is not working. With brake it stops in ~8 sec give or take a few seconds. There is also a hum when brake is working. If properly calibrated the hum should stop same time as cutterhead
comes to a stop or fairly quickly afterwards but not before. There is nothing wrong if the hum continues for short time afterwards as long as machine is not restarted.
I have not thought about brake function with no load but imagine it would stop quickly not having to fight the moment of a heavy spinning cutterhead. I cannot imagine a reason for it to not work in this scenario.
There has been a report of brake board failure that resulted in overheating of motor but in your case the motor runs fine in no load condition. Have you run it for a longer duration with no load? I imagine if it is brake board causing
the overheating, it might take longer to shutdown under no load.
Sorry, that is all I can think off. Hopefully, someone else can offer better guidance. In case of overheating, I personally would check the current motor is pulling to rule out the motor.
Imran?
?
Hi Imran
? ? ? It is 230v single phase, I do not know how to tell if the electric brake is working.
If I disengage the infeed drive , the motor will work just sometimes, but if I remove the drive belt from the pulley the motor works every time
Keith
Keith,
Not sure what is happening but few pieces of info may help. Single phase or 3 phase? Is electric brake working, load or no load?
Imran
?My planer /jointer has just developed a problem.
When I start the machine up the head starts to turn then stalls and starts a growling noise (for want of a better word) ,the motor overheats and cuts out.
I have taken the drive belt off and the motor works fine, I checked the head and it seems fine, bearings turn freely and no play. When I reinstall the drive belt stalls again. i.e motor do not seem to work under load, Any ideas Keith
<thumbnail_image1 (2).jpg>
|
Thanks?Imran, yes the racket was definitely loader than a hum.
Keith?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Keith,
Glad that was easy to figure out. Was the racket more like a loud hum?
Either way if the machine is old go ahead and replace both caps. You can look for them at following. I recently got in’s from Mouser for my bandsaw.
Imran
On Mar 14, 2021, at 4:37 PM, keith turner <keithturner01@...> wrote:
?
Thank you
Keith
I know others have bought replacements of Amazon. You need to look at the writing on the casing and get the appropriate one.. a search through the posts here might come up with the values. My machines are three phase
so I don’t have the caps. Any local motor rewinding shop or electronics supply house should be able to supply replacements also.
Hi Brian
?I suspect you are right ,I started up the motor and let it get to full speed. then engaged the infeed , this ( I assume it's a capacitor) started smoking then popped out of the casing . If it is a capacitor any idea where I can pick one up ,I live in Canada
Keith
?
I suspect he has lost one or both of his capacitors. Did you hold the start button in until the motors reach full speed?
Keith,
The cutterhead would spin for a long while if the brake is not working. With brake it stops in ~8 sec give or take a few seconds. There is also a hum when brake is working. If properly calibrated the hum should stop same time as cutterhead
comes to a stop or fairly quickly afterwards but not before. There is nothing wrong if the hum continues for short time afterwards as long as machine is not restarted.
I have not thought about brake function with no load but imagine it would stop quickly not having to fight the moment of a heavy spinning cutterhead. I cannot imagine a reason for it to not work in this scenario.
There has been a report of brake board failure that resulted in overheating of motor but in your case the motor runs fine in no load condition. Have you run it for a longer duration with no load? I imagine if it is brake board causing
the overheating, it might take longer to shutdown under no load.
Sorry, that is all I can think off. Hopefully, someone else can offer better guidance. In case of overheating, I personally would check the current motor is pulling to rule out the motor.
Imran?
?
Hi Imran
? ? ? It is 230v single phase, I do not know how to tell if the electric brake is working.
If I disengage the infeed drive , the motor will work just sometimes, but if I remove the drive belt from the pulley the motor works every time
Keith
Keith,
Not sure what is happening but few pieces of info may help. Single phase or 3 phase? Is electric brake working, load or no load?
Imran
?My planer /jointer has just developed a problem.
When I start the machine up the head starts to turn then stalls and starts a growling noise (for want of a better word) ,the motor overheats and cuts out.
I have taken the drive belt off and the motor works fine, I checked the head and it seems fine, bearings turn freely and no play. When I reinstall the drive belt stalls again. i.e motor do not seem to work under load, Any ideas Keith
<thumbnail_image1 (2).jpg>
|
Re: power package for KF700
I wonder if it might be possible to install one of those DRO from Wixey. They're easily affordable even for an amateur
Ivan?
|
Re: power package for KF700
That's interesting, I thought it was just me. My kf700 board was gone when I bought the machine. The dealer said the cost of replacement was prohibitive so they rewired it totally using Compton s20 brake modules - apparently Africans don't bother with brakes so they are taken off. Machine was about 10 years old when this happened.?
|
Re: Leverlock tape measures
Following (hoping to hear about something I’ve yet to find).? Tajima is my new job site brand (they hold up so far as well or better than others I’ve tried) but Fastcap for cabinet work (metric) and I’d love to have options as I too get frustrated on metric being on the wrong side (Tajimas).? I recently added the Festool stand and extension tables in metric thinking I’ll just make the move wholesale but its a learning curve (my eye is trained to fractions not MM as yet).
Fred, it's less about the blade stiffness and more about the locking mechanisms failing over time, especially the leverlock/autolock?styles.
Brian and David B., thanks for the recommendations, I hadn't considered those options but will in the future.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Keith,
Glad that was easy to figure out. Was the racket more like a loud hum?
Either way if the machine is old go ahead and replace both caps. You can look for them at following. I recently got in’s from Mouser for my bandsaw.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 14, 2021, at 4:37 PM, keith turner <keithturner01@...> wrote: ?
Thank you
Keith
I know others have bought replacements of Amazon. You need to look at the writing on the casing and get the appropriate one.. a search through the posts here might come up with the values. My machines are three phase
so I don’t have the caps. Any local motor rewinding shop or electronics supply house should be able to supply replacements also.
Hi Brian
?I suspect you are right ,I started up the motor and let it get to full speed. then engaged the infeed , this ( I assume it's a capacitor) started smoking then popped out of the casing . If it is a capacitor any idea where I can pick one up ,I live in Canada
Keith
?
I suspect he has lost one or both of his capacitors. Did you hold the start button in until the motors reach full speed?
Keith,
The cutterhead would spin for a long while if the brake is not working. With brake it stops in ~8 sec give or take a few seconds. There is also a hum when brake is working. If properly calibrated the hum should stop same time as cutterhead
comes to a stop or fairly quickly afterwards but not before. There is nothing wrong if the hum continues for short time afterwards as long as machine is not restarted.
I have not thought about brake function with no load but imagine it would stop quickly not having to fight the moment of a heavy spinning cutterhead. I cannot imagine a reason for it to not work in this scenario.
There has been a report of brake board failure that resulted in overheating of motor but in your case the motor runs fine in no load condition. Have you run it for a longer duration with no load? I imagine if it is brake board causing
the overheating, it might take longer to shutdown under no load.
Sorry, that is all I can think off. Hopefully, someone else can offer better guidance. In case of overheating, I personally would check the current motor is pulling to rule out the motor.
Imran?
?
Hi Imran
? ? ? It is 230v single phase, I do not know how to tell if the electric brake is working.
If I disengage the infeed drive , the motor will work just sometimes, but if I remove the drive belt from the pulley the motor works every time
Keith
Keith,
Not sure what is happening but few pieces of info may help. Single phase or 3 phase? Is electric brake working, load or no load?
Imran
?My planer /jointer has just developed a problem.
When I start the machine up the head starts to turn then stalls and starts a growling noise (for want of a better word) ,the motor overheats and cuts out.
I have taken the drive belt off and the motor works fine, I checked the head and it seems fine, bearings turn freely and no play. When I reinstall the drive belt stalls again. i.e motor do not seem to work under load, Any ideas Keith
<thumbnail_image1 (2).jpg>
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I know others have bought replacements of Amazon. You need to look at the writing on the casing and get the appropriate one.. a search through the posts here might come up with the values. My machines are three phase
so I don’t have the caps. Any local motor rewinding shop or electronics supply house should be able to supply replacements also.
Hi Brian
?I suspect you are right ,I started up the motor and let it get to full speed. then engaged the infeed , this ( I assume it's a capacitor) started smoking then popped out of the casing . If it is a capacitor any idea where I can pick one up ,I live in Canada
Keith
?
I suspect he has lost one or both of his capacitors. Did you hold the start button in until the motors reach full speed?
Keith,
The cutterhead would spin for a long while if the brake is not working. With brake it stops in ~8 sec give or take a few seconds. There is also a hum when brake is working. If properly calibrated the hum should stop same time as cutterhead
comes to a stop or fairly quickly afterwards but not before. There is nothing wrong if the hum continues for short time afterwards as long as machine is not restarted.
I have not thought about brake function with no load but imagine it would stop quickly not having to fight the moment of a heavy spinning cutterhead. I cannot imagine a reason for it to not work in this scenario.
There has been a report of brake board failure that resulted in overheating of motor but in your case the motor runs fine in no load condition. Have you run it for a longer duration with no load? I imagine if it is brake board causing
the overheating, it might take longer to shutdown under no load.
Sorry, that is all I can think off. Hopefully, someone else can offer better guidance. In case of overheating, I personally would check the current motor is pulling to rule out the motor.
Imran?
?
Hi Imran
? ? ? It is 230v single phase, I do not know how to tell if the electric brake is working.
If I disengage the infeed drive , the motor will work just sometimes, but if I remove the drive belt from the pulley the motor works every time
Keith
Keith,
Not sure what is happening but few pieces of info may help. Single phase or 3 phase? Is electric brake working, load or no load?
Imran
?My planer /jointer has just developed a problem.
When I start the machine up the head starts to turn then stalls and starts a growling noise (for want of a better word) ,the motor overheats and cuts out.
I have taken the drive belt off and the motor works fine, I checked the head and it seems fine, bearings turn freely and no play. When I reinstall the drive belt stalls again. i.e motor do not seem to work under load, Any ideas Keith
<thumbnail_image1 (2).jpg>
|
I know others have bought replacements of Amazon. You need to look at the writing on the casing and get the appropriate one.. a search through the posts here might come up with the values. My machines are three phase so I don’t have the caps. Any local motor rewinding shop or electronics supply house should be able to supply replacements also.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Brian ?I suspect you are right ,I started up the motor and let it get to full speed. then engaged the infeed , this ( I assume it's a capacitor) started smoking then popped out of the casing . If it is a capacitor any idea where I can pick one up ,I live in Canada Keith ?
I suspect he has lost one or both of his capacitors. Did you hold the start button in until the motors reach full speed?
Keith,
The cutterhead would spin for a long while if the brake is not working. With brake it stops in ~8 sec give or take a few seconds. There is also a hum when brake is working. If properly calibrated the hum should stop same time as cutterhead comes to a stop or fairly quickly afterwards but not before. There is nothing wrong if the hum continues for short time afterwards as long as machine is not restarted.
I have not thought about brake function with no load but imagine it would stop quickly not having to fight the moment of a heavy spinning cutterhead. I cannot imagine a reason for it to not work in this scenario.
There has been a report of brake board failure that resulted in overheating of motor but in your case the motor runs fine in no load condition. Have you run it for a longer duration with no load? I imagine if it is brake board causing the overheating, it might take longer to shutdown under no load.
Sorry, that is all I can think off. Hopefully, someone else can offer better guidance. In case of overheating, I personally would check the current motor is pulling to rule out the motor.
Imran? ? Hi Imran ? ? ? It is 230v single phase, I do not know how to tell if the electric brake is working. If I disengage the infeed drive , the motor will work just sometimes, but if I remove the drive belt from the pulley the motor works every time Keith
Keith,
Not sure what is happening but few pieces of info may help. Single phase or 3 phase? Is electric brake working, load or no load?
Imran ?My planer /jointer has just developed a problem.
When I start the machine up the head starts to turn then stalls and starts a growling noise (for want of a better word) ,the motor overheats and cuts out.
I have taken the drive belt off and the motor works fine, I checked the head and it seems fine, bearings turn freely and no play. When I reinstall the drive belt stalls again. i.e motor do not seem to work under load, Any ideas Keith
|
I think it is a capacitor as this started smoking and popped out of the casing when I engaged the infeed after the motor was up and running at full speed
Keith
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
That would be interesting as it appears to start okay. I guess run cap could be bad but I am not aware of noise associated with it. My exposure is limited to reported problems here on FOG so maybe learning something new.
Imran
On Mar 14, 2021, at 2:36 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?I suspect he has lost one or both of his capacitors. Did you hold the start button in until the motors reach full speed?
Keith,
The cutterhead would spin for a long while if the brake is not working. With brake it stops in ~8 sec give or take a few seconds. There is also a hum when brake is working. If properly calibrated the hum should stop same time as cutterhead
comes to a stop or fairly quickly afterwards but not before. There is nothing wrong if the hum continues for short time afterwards as long as machine is not restarted.
I have not thought about brake function with no load but imagine it would stop quickly not having to fight the moment of a heavy spinning cutterhead. I cannot imagine a reason for it to not work in this scenario.
There has been a report of brake board failure that resulted in overheating of motor but in your case the motor runs fine in no load condition. Have you run it for a longer duration with no load? I imagine if it is brake board causing
the overheating, it might take longer to shutdown under no load.
Sorry, that is all I can think off. Hopefully, someone else can offer better guidance. In case of overheating, I personally would check the current motor is pulling to rule out the motor.
Imran?
?
Hi Imran
? ? ? It is 230v single phase, I do not know how to tell if the electric brake is working.
If I disengage the infeed drive , the motor will work just sometimes, but if I remove the drive belt from the pulley the motor works every time
Keith
Keith,
Not sure what is happening but few pieces of info may help. Single phase or 3 phase? Is electric brake working, load or no load?
Imran
?My planer /jointer has just developed a problem.
When I start the machine up the head starts to turn then stalls and starts a growling noise (for want of a better word) ,the motor overheats and cuts out.
I have taken the drive belt off and the motor works fine, I checked the head and it seems fine, bearings turn freely and no play. When I reinstall the drive belt stalls again. i.e motor do not seem to work under load, Any ideas Keith
|
Hi Brian
?I suspect you are right ,I started up the motor and let it get to full speed. then engaged the infeed , this ( I assume it's a capacitor) started smoking then popped out of the casing . If it is a capacitor any idea where I can pick one up ,I live in Canada
Keith
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I suspect he has lost one or both of his capacitors. Did you hold the start button in until the motors reach full speed?
Keith,
The cutterhead would spin for a long while if the brake is not working. With brake it stops in ~8 sec give or take a few seconds. There is also a hum when brake is working. If properly calibrated the hum should stop same time as cutterhead
comes to a stop or fairly quickly afterwards but not before. There is nothing wrong if the hum continues for short time afterwards as long as machine is not restarted.
I have not thought about brake function with no load but imagine it would stop quickly not having to fight the moment of a heavy spinning cutterhead. I cannot imagine a reason for it to not work in this scenario.
There has been a report of brake board failure that resulted in overheating of motor but in your case the motor runs fine in no load condition. Have you run it for a longer duration with no load? I imagine if it is brake board causing
the overheating, it might take longer to shutdown under no load.
Sorry, that is all I can think off. Hopefully, someone else can offer better guidance. In case of overheating, I personally would check the current motor is pulling to rule out the motor.
Imran?
?
Hi Imran
? ? ? It is 230v single phase, I do not know how to tell if the electric brake is working.
If I disengage the infeed drive , the motor will work just sometimes, but if I remove the drive belt from the pulley the motor works every time
Keith
Keith,
Not sure what is happening but few pieces of info may help. Single phase or 3 phase? Is electric brake working, load or no load?
Imran
?My planer /jointer has just developed a problem.
When I start the machine up the head starts to turn then stalls and starts a growling noise (for want of a better word) ,the motor overheats and cuts out.
I have taken the drive belt off and the motor works fine, I checked the head and it seems fine, bearings turn freely and no play. When I reinstall the drive belt stalls again. i.e motor do not seem to work under load, Any ideas Keith
|
Re: Leverlock tape measures
Tape measures, pencils and reading glasses, if you have enough of them around, you don't have to look very far. I'm sure I have 7 or 8 tape measures and twice as many glasses. The Milwaukee tape has a lifetime warranty and seems to hold up pretty well. You have to call the factory rep and email him a pic of the broken tape. They will send you a new tape with free shipping.
|
That would be interesting as it appears to start okay. I guess run cap could be bad but I am not aware of noise associated with it. My exposure is limited to reported problems here on FOG so maybe learning something new.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 14, 2021, at 2:36 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote: ? I suspect he has lost one or both of his capacitors. Did you hold the start button in until the motors reach full speed?
Keith,
The cutterhead would spin for a long while if the brake is not working. With brake it stops in ~8 sec give or take a few seconds. There is also a hum when brake is working. If properly calibrated the hum should stop same time as cutterhead comes to a stop or fairly quickly afterwards but not before. There is nothing wrong if the hum continues for short time afterwards as long as machine is not restarted.
I have not thought about brake function with no load but imagine it would stop quickly not having to fight the moment of a heavy spinning cutterhead. I cannot imagine a reason for it to not work in this scenario.
There has been a report of brake board failure that resulted in overheating of motor but in your case the motor runs fine in no load condition. Have you run it for a longer duration with no load? I imagine if it is brake board causing the overheating, it might take longer to shutdown under no load.
Sorry, that is all I can think off. Hopefully, someone else can offer better guidance. In case of overheating, I personally would check the current motor is pulling to rule out the motor.
Imran? ?
Hi Imran
? ? ? It is 230v single phase, I do not know how to tell if the electric brake is working.
If I disengage the infeed drive , the motor will work just sometimes, but if I remove the drive belt from the pulley the motor works every time
Keith
Keith,
Not sure what is happening but few pieces of info may help. Single phase or 3 phase? Is electric brake working, load or no load?
Imran
?My planer /jointer has just developed a problem.
When I start the machine up the head starts to turn then stalls and starts a growling noise (for want of a better word) ,the motor overheats and cuts out.
I have taken the drive belt off and the motor works fine, I checked the head and it seems fine, bearings turn freely and no play. When I reinstall the drive belt stalls again. i.e motor do not seem to work under load, Any ideas Keith
|
I suspect he has lost one or both of his capacitors. Did you hold the start button in until the motors reach full speed?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Keith,
The cutterhead would spin for a long while if the brake is not working. With brake it stops in ~8 sec give or take a few seconds. There is also a hum when brake is working. If properly calibrated the hum should stop same time as cutterhead comes to a stop or fairly quickly afterwards but not before. There is nothing wrong if the hum continues for short time afterwards as long as machine is not restarted.
I have not thought about brake function with no load but imagine it would stop quickly not having to fight the moment of a heavy spinning cutterhead. I cannot imagine a reason for it to not work in this scenario.
There has been a report of brake board failure that resulted in overheating of motor but in your case the motor runs fine in no load condition. Have you run it for a longer duration with no load? I imagine if it is brake board causing the overheating, it might take longer to shutdown under no load.
Sorry, that is all I can think off. Hopefully, someone else can offer better guidance. In case of overheating, I personally would check the current motor is pulling to rule out the motor.
Imran? ?
Hi Imran
? ? ? It is 230v single phase, I do not know how to tell if the electric brake is working.
If I disengage the infeed drive , the motor will work just sometimes, but if I remove the drive belt from the pulley the motor works every time
Keith
Keith,
Not sure what is happening but few pieces of info may help. Single phase or 3 phase? Is electric brake working, load or no load?
Imran
?My planer /jointer has just developed a problem.
When I start the machine up the head starts to turn then stalls and starts a growling noise (for want of a better word) ,the motor overheats and cuts out.
I have taken the drive belt off and the motor works fine, I checked the head and it seems fine, bearings turn freely and no play. When I reinstall the drive belt stalls again. i.e motor do not seem to work under load, Any ideas Keith
|
Re: power package for KF700
Nope. Unless you come from low to high, the backlash is still there. Their electronic DRO isn’t too high tech, it’s a resolver on one of the gears in the drive train, so any play in the gear train is going to cause back lash inaccuracies. As long as you go from low to high in your movements you will eliminate the problem.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Brian,
You are correct but if I have a preference I would choose a digital display. I guess, I assumed that the lash would also be eliminated.
Imran? On Mar 14, 2021, at 1:02 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: ? What do you think the dial indicator wheels are? They are a DRO for the height and angle.
I was telling Randy in a private conversation that it would really be a nice option to have a DRO with manual crank on the saw as a lower cost upgrade. I do not know this for a fact but it has to be significantly less expensive. The budgets of hobby woodworkers can be limited and they have more time compared to businesses that can, in many cases, not only afford the expense but also benefit from the productivity gains.
I imagine OEMs fear that it might cut the power upgrade sales substantially and perhaps that is the reason it is not offered. Has anyone seen this offered by OEM on woodworking machine?
Imran On Mar 14, 2021, at 11:57 AM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: ? I have no idea, I just know that the electronics can be a source of failure points. Witness all the failed brake boards lately… and blown capacitors. I don’t find the hand cranking of the saw or shaper to be a big issue, it’s not that many turns and for me the dial indicators in the hand wheels have been extremely reliable and accurate.
The jointer/planer is where I see the value of the powered up and down, my shoulders and elbows scream in agony every time I have to change over.
On Mar 13, 2021, at 7:34 PM, David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
It’s a good point Brian but I’ve never gone a “down” day either with my 16 year old Dual 51 with digi drive. Maybe the KF electronics are not as robust? On 14 Mar 2021, at 11:28 am, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? I find that manual with the hand wheel indicators works just fine on the saw and shaper. I would want power up and down on the J/P. My machines are over 20 years old now and never been down a day because my saw or shaper won’t go up and down….
On Mar 13, 2021, at 3:21 PM, Acharya Kumarnathaswami < kumar@...> wrote:
I am nearing the point of purchase for a new KF 700, and one remaining question I have is whether to add the power features for the shaper and saw units.
Any advice from you pros and afficianados on this? Use is as a "hobbyist" rather than a professional shop. Thanks!?
|
Re: power package for KF700
Brian,
You are correct but if I have a preference I would choose a digital display. I guess, I assumed that the lash would also be eliminated.
Imran?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 14, 2021, at 1:02 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote: ? What do you think the dial indicator wheels are? They are a DRO for the height and angle.
I was telling Randy in a private conversation that it would really be a nice option to have a DRO with manual crank on the saw as a lower cost upgrade. I do not know this for a fact but it has to be significantly less expensive. The budgets of hobby woodworkers can be limited and they have more time compared to businesses that can, in many cases, not only afford the expense but also benefit from the productivity gains.
I imagine OEMs fear that it might cut the power upgrade sales substantially and perhaps that is the reason it is not offered. Has anyone seen this offered by OEM on woodworking machine?
Imran On Mar 14, 2021, at 11:57 AM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: ? I have no idea, I just know that the electronics can be a source of failure points. Witness all the failed brake boards lately… and blown capacitors. I don’t find the hand cranking of the saw or shaper to be a big issue, it’s not that many turns and for me the dial indicators in the hand wheels have been extremely reliable and accurate.
The jointer/planer is where I see the value of the powered up and down, my shoulders and elbows scream in agony every time I have to change over.
On Mar 13, 2021, at 7:34 PM, David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
It’s a good point Brian but I’ve never gone a “down” day either with my 16 year old Dual 51 with digi drive. Maybe the KF electronics are not as robust? On 14 Mar 2021, at 11:28 am, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? I find that manual with the hand wheel indicators works just fine on the saw and shaper. I would want power up and down on the J/P. My machines are over 20 years old now and never been down a day because my saw or shaper won’t go up and down….
On Mar 13, 2021, at 3:21 PM, Acharya Kumarnathaswami < kumar@...> wrote:
I am nearing the point of purchase for a new KF 700, and one remaining question I have is whether to add the power features for the shaper and saw units.
Any advice from you pros and afficianados on this? Use is as a "hobbyist" rather than a professional shop. Thanks!?
|
Re: Leverlock tape measures
I like the Stanley lever lock action over the thumb lever.? The end wears out anyway.? Splurge.? Go buy 3.? You'll get 3 times the life and not lose them as often.
|
Re: power package for KF700
Dave,
That is good to know. I wish Felder offered it as well.
Imran
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On Mar 14, 2021, at 12:42 PM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote: ? That's what the Martin T-60 has - DRO with manual crank on the saw as a lower cost upgrade Dave Davies On Sun, Mar 14, 2021 at 11:37 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I was telling Randy in a private conversation that it would really be a nice option to have a DRO with manual crank on the saw as a lower cost upgrade. I do not know this for a fact but it has to be significantly less expensive. The budgets of hobby woodworkers can be limited and they have more time compared to businesses that can, in many cases, not only afford the expense but also benefit from the productivity gains.
I imagine OEMs fear that it might cut the power upgrade sales substantially and perhaps that is the reason it is not offered. Has anyone seen this offered by OEM on woodworking machine?
Imran On Mar 14, 2021, at 11:57 AM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: ?I have no idea, I just know that the electronics can be a source of failure points. Witness all the failed brake boards lately… and blown capacitors. I don’t find the hand cranking of the saw or shaper to be a big issue, it’s not that many turns and for me the dial indicators in the hand wheels have been extremely reliable and accurate.
The jointer/planer is where I see the value of the powered up and down, my shoulders and elbows scream in agony every time I have to change over.
On Mar 13, 2021, at 7:34 PM, David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
It’s a good point Brian but I’ve never gone a “down” day either with my 16 year old Dual 51 with digi drive. Maybe the KF electronics are not as robust? On 14 Mar 2021, at 11:28 am, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?I find that manual with the hand wheel indicators works just fine on the saw and shaper. I would want power up and down on the J/P. My machines are over 20 years old now and never been down a day because my saw or shaper won’t go up and down….
On Mar 13, 2021, at 3:21 PM, Acharya Kumarnathaswami < kumar@...> wrote:
I am nearing the point of purchase for a new KF 700, and one remaining question I have is whether to add the power features for the shaper and saw units.
Any advice from you pros and afficianados on this? Use is as a "hobbyist" rather than a professional shop. Thanks!?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
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Keith,
The cutterhead would spin for a long while if the brake is not working. With brake it stops in ~8 sec give or take a few seconds. There is also a hum when brake is working. If properly calibrated the hum should stop same time as cutterhead comes to a stop or fairly quickly afterwards but not before. There is nothing wrong if the hum continues for short time afterwards as long as machine is not restarted.
I have not thought about brake function with no load but imagine it would stop quickly not having to fight the moment of a heavy spinning cutterhead. I cannot imagine a reason for it to not work in this scenario.
There has been a report of brake board failure that resulted in overheating of motor but in your case the motor runs fine in no load condition. Have you run it for a longer duration with no load? I imagine if it is brake board causing the overheating, it might take longer to shutdown under no load.
Sorry, that is all I can think off. Hopefully, someone else can offer better guidance. In case of overheating, I personally would check the current motor is pulling to rule out the motor.
Imran?
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On Mar 14, 2021, at 12:31 PM, keith turner <keithturner01@...> wrote: ?
Hi Imran
? ? ? It is 230v single phase, I do not know how to tell if the electric brake is working.
If I disengage the infeed drive , the motor will work just sometimes, but if I remove the drive belt from the pulley the motor works every time
Keith
Keith,
Not sure what is happening but few pieces of info may help. Single phase or 3 phase? Is electric brake working, load or no load?
Imran
On Mar 14, 2021, at 6:40 AM, keithturner01@... wrote:
?My planer /jointer has just developed a problem.
When I start the machine up the head starts to turn then stalls and starts a growling noise (for want of a better word) ,the motor overheats and cuts out.
I have taken the drive belt off and the motor works fine, I checked the head and it seems fine, bearings turn freely and no play. When I reinstall the drive belt stalls again. i.e motor do not seem to work under load, Any ideas Keith
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Re: power package for KF700
What do you think the dial indicator wheels are? They are a DRO for the height and angle.
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I was telling Randy in a private conversation that it would really be a nice option to have a DRO with manual crank on the saw as a lower cost upgrade. I do not know this for a fact but it has to be significantly less expensive. The budgets of hobby woodworkers can be limited and they have more time compared to businesses that can, in many cases, not only afford the expense but also benefit from the productivity gains.
I imagine OEMs fear that it might cut the power upgrade sales substantially and perhaps that is the reason it is not offered. Has anyone seen this offered by OEM on woodworking machine?
Imran On Mar 14, 2021, at 11:57 AM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: ? I have no idea, I just know that the electronics can be a source of failure points. Witness all the failed brake boards lately… and blown capacitors. I don’t find the hand cranking of the saw or shaper to be a big issue, it’s not that many turns and for me the dial indicators in the hand wheels have been extremely reliable and accurate.
The jointer/planer is where I see the value of the powered up and down, my shoulders and elbows scream in agony every time I have to change over.
On Mar 13, 2021, at 7:34 PM, David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
It’s a good point Brian but I’ve never gone a “down” day either with my 16 year old Dual 51 with digi drive. Maybe the KF electronics are not as robust? On 14 Mar 2021, at 11:28 am, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? I find that manual with the hand wheel indicators works just fine on the saw and shaper. I would want power up and down on the J/P. My machines are over 20 years old now and never been down a day because my saw or shaper won’t go up and down….
On Mar 13, 2021, at 3:21 PM, Acharya Kumarnathaswami < kumar@...> wrote:
I am nearing the point of purchase for a new KF 700, and one remaining question I have is whether to add the power features for the shaper and saw units.
Any advice from you pros and afficianados on this? Use is as a "hobbyist" rather than a professional shop. Thanks!?
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Re: power package for KF700
For me, its the power up-down going between jointer and planer and the accuracy of the position read out.? You can dial up a board thickness.?
On the shaper, its more about position (elevation).? Tweaking a setting is accurate and convenient.? Dropping the rig below the table and then coming back to a set up is handy as heck.? Tilt on the shaper and saw can be easily accomplished with a magnetic base electronic angle finder or an app on your phone.?
I don't have? power in my saw but think returning to a position like with a dado set up would be nice to have.
I have had no maintenance issues.
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imran
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Jonathan Smith