KF700 Cast Iron/Slider Flatness Check
Now that my KF is shaper only machine, I thought I will take some readings of the surface to see if any improvement can be made. BTW, this is factory set since 2002. ? Attached shows the gaps in mils. These readings are with slider locked. There is no outrigger on this machine and readings are without xcut fence mounted. Dynamic check is next. One drawing showing readings across the cast iron table and the other front to back. ? I remember that I had a larger gap between slider and cast iron and now suspect that things might change with xcut fence attached. Anyhow, I could raise the infeed right side corner to something less than 4thou but it is not really in play with shaper use. I am also thinking of moving the xcut fence to the mid slider position vs near infeed where it has been since 2002. Anyone sees a reason not to do so? ? I am not sure how I can improve the slight imperfections I do have as they are minimal. The rings can be improved but I just adjusted the set screws yesterday where the large ring (only one that can be adjusted) does not rock at least in the marked position, so likely will leave it as is. ? Attached skype model if anyone wants to use it for any purpose. It is just a rough model for documentation purposes. My slider is 75 3/8" long. ? Imran
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Re: Bearing Replacement on KF7
Loyal contributor will do. thanks mac,,,
On Saturday, March 13, 2021, 09:15:59 AM CST, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression via groups.io <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
Hi, ?I have a 20 page document written i believe by John Hartshorn in 2000, Solid info for machines before and after around this time span. I would mail to someone ( maybe there is someone that does this for the sight i dont know) who would agree to scan and add to file sections for older machines set up info. Please contact me off the fog as i dont spend a lot of time reading posts. ?
mac,,,
On Friday, March 12, 2021, 11:27:59 AM CST, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
If the Machine has been stood up for 8 years, then bearing grease has almost certainly dried out.
Extracting the shaft is not too difficult a task, however changing the bearings can prove a little challenging.? Having recently done this on my 6 series i would suggest this is a job for an engineering shop.
There are two bearings on the saw shaft with a spacing sleeve in between to prevent any alignment issues (I'll come to that later) the sleeve has been fitted to the shaft while hot so requires a large amount of force?(13.5
tonne on a hydraulic press) to remove .
Ideally you want someone who has an induction coil that will heat the sleeve more than the shaft to help get this off the shaft to change the inner bearing. Likewise, it will need to be heated before trying to refit so as not damage the shaft due to metal transfer.
The saw shaft is no longer available as a spare and the bearing spaced is ?45 this side of the pond.? so these ar parts it is preferable not to damage.
David is correct in stating that you should check the motor and the saw shaft bearing before disassembling anything as it could be either.
With regards to the alignment issue, it is relatively easy to eliminate the shaft from the equation.
If you check that the bearing on the saw side of the casting, it should be almost flush with the milled section on the top of the casting that the two hex head bearing retaining bolts and washers fit into,
if it proud then it's possible that the bearings have been changed previously and either not assembled correctly or not installed correctly.
The splitter arm mounts to the casting with two allen bolts and two roll pins for alignment, in the past if the bolts have worked loose then it is possible for dust to get down between the arm and the casting and push things out of alignment.
It would be worth removing the two bolts and separating the arm and the casting buy an 1/8 of an inch ang giving it a good clean and see if that resolves the issue.
I have attached the part drawing for the K7 saw albeit this slightly pre dates your machine.
I hope this helps
Paul
I'm a new owner of a 1999 KF7F, I won it at an auction, all I know is that for the last 8 years its been stored in a shop unused. I've got a number of questions about getting it set up they way I would like with various accessories. But the current priority
is addressing a grinding sound coming out of the saw, somewhat intermittent but not going away, and probably getting worse. It started after a few weeks of use at my shop. Its probably a bearing, but before I take it all apart I'd like to know a little more
what I'm getting into. Mostly I'm worried about getting the blade back into an accurate position after the bearing is replaced.
Another issue, potentially related, is with the splitter. The saw came without the splitter, but when I installed a new one from Felder it was offset to the right of the blade by 1/32". I've shimmed it back, but I'm not sure where the issue is. Is the saw spindle
offset, or is the arm holding the splitter bent or offset, or maybe the failed bearing is causing the problem. Any experience there would be helpful.
And lastly, I'm happy to have found this forum. This is my first Felder purchase, and my first slider, so lots to get up to speed on. Thanks for any help.
-Willis
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Carry master on 18” DoAll ?modified different levelers.
  Designing and building for 50 years
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On Mar 12, 2021, at 6:03 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Mike, Thanks for casters details. Now that I am pretty sure where the saw will reside I do not need it on mobile base or casters however I still would like to be able to move it. So skids like Shinta are most suitable. BTW, mine is also Lagana, LT16 model. I never thought much about it but seems like being higher may be another plus.
Shinta, Yes, I am concerned with tripping so will need to think a bit. Since I plan to go from side, perhaps I can make the rear skid longer for stability. Where it is located, the long rear skid won’t be a huge trip hazard and also be out of the way while using it.
Imran
On Mar 12, 2021, at 12:48 AM, Shinta Wakahisa via groups.io <vnh84@...> wrote:
?Dave, The railroad track is one of my anvils for messing around with metals and for building biceps!? :) Imran, Given the dimension of the FB710's base, the wooden base works out perfect for a narrow-fork pallet jack with 4-foot forks.? I went cheap and built it from the crate material of the bandsaw, but so far, it has been sturdy enough to support the FB710 during operation and moving.? Though, I only move the saw for blade changes, which is infrequent.?? Mike, I have similar casters on a Hammer A3-31.? They works well for moving the A3-31 on a flat concrete floor.? The FB710 is a whole lot heavier with a higher center of gravity.? I am not sure, but those casters may make it difficult to move the FB710 around.? Also, they may not be able to be installed underneath the FB710's base (see picture), unless you weld additional corner triangle/square plate to the base's corners.?? <FB710_base_bottomview.JPG> SW
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Re: Bearing Replacement on KF7
Hi, ?I have a 20 page document written i believe by John Hartshorn in 2000, Solid info for machines before and after around this time span. I would mail to someone ( maybe there is someone that does this for the sight i dont know) who would agree to scan and add to file sections for older machines set up info. Please contact me off the fog as i dont spend a lot of time reading posts. ?
mac,,,
On Friday, March 12, 2021, 11:27:59 AM CST, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
If the Machine has been stood up for 8 years, then bearing grease has almost certainly dried out.
Extracting the shaft is not too difficult a task, however changing the bearings can prove a little challenging.? Having recently done this on my 6 series i would suggest this is a job for an engineering shop.
There are two bearings on the saw shaft with a spacing sleeve in between to prevent any alignment issues (I'll come to that later) the sleeve has been fitted to the shaft while hot so requires a large amount of force?(13.5
tonne on a hydraulic press) to remove .
Ideally you want someone who has an induction coil that will heat the sleeve more than the shaft to help get this off the shaft to change the inner bearing. Likewise, it will need to be heated before trying to refit so as not damage the shaft due to metal transfer.
The saw shaft is no longer available as a spare and the bearing spaced is ?45 this side of the pond.? so these ar parts it is preferable not to damage.
David is correct in stating that you should check the motor and the saw shaft bearing before disassembling anything as it could be either.
With regards to the alignment issue, it is relatively easy to eliminate the shaft from the equation.
If you check that the bearing on the saw side of the casting, it should be almost flush with the milled section on the top of the casting that the two hex head bearing retaining bolts and washers fit into,
if it proud then it's possible that the bearings have been changed previously and either not assembled correctly or not installed correctly.
The splitter arm mounts to the casting with two allen bolts and two roll pins for alignment, in the past if the bolts have worked loose then it is possible for dust to get down between the arm and the casting and push things out of alignment.
It would be worth removing the two bolts and separating the arm and the casting buy an 1/8 of an inch ang giving it a good clean and see if that resolves the issue.
I have attached the part drawing for the K7 saw albeit this slightly pre dates your machine.
I hope this helps
Paul
I'm a new owner of a 1999 KF7F, I won it at an auction, all I know is that for the last 8 years its been stored in a shop unused. I've got a number of questions about getting it set up they way I would like with various accessories. But the current priority
is addressing a grinding sound coming out of the saw, somewhat intermittent but not going away, and probably getting worse. It started after a few weeks of use at my shop. Its probably a bearing, but before I take it all apart I'd like to know a little more
what I'm getting into. Mostly I'm worried about getting the blade back into an accurate position after the bearing is replaced.
Another issue, potentially related, is with the splitter. The saw came without the splitter, but when I installed a new one from Felder it was offset to the right of the blade by 1/32". I've shimmed it back, but I'm not sure where the issue is. Is the saw spindle
offset, or is the arm holding the splitter bent or offset, or maybe the failed bearing is causing the problem. Any experience there would be helpful.
And lastly, I'm happy to have found this forum. This is my first Felder purchase, and my first slider, so lots to get up to speed on. Thanks for any help.
-Willis
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Re: KF 700 not powering up
Hello Jonathan;
I have a CF531 unit and just went through a start issue. I certainly agree with Imran and others to check all the switches first.
My saw has switch on the retractable saw guard that need to be carefully toggled in the centre position and is very sensitive. I also have replaced the emergency stop button at one point just after receiving the saw as well.
In this most recent event, after stalling the saw motor I ended up replacing the brake module (dead short) and also one of the two 40 mfu motor starter caps. As Imran indicated you can see the LED on the brake module is at least lit in your attached picture which is a positive sign. There are also 3 glass fuses on the main board that should be checked ( located on the low voltage side)
You may have already tried this but there is a reset button on one of the big relays on the main board. I can see it in your picture on the bottom right side below the two motor start relays ( in my case marked K 5 and K x)
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Blaine
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Drew, ? Thanks for sharing. I may use this for shop inventory. ? Imran ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Drew Tosh Sent: Friday, March 12, 2021 1:58 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] Home Inventory App ? I would build an Airtable database. I did this to inventory tools, and other assets. Photos from phone, text via tablet or Pc. ? This came up on SMC and I need to do something to document everything in my workshop as well as my house and probably something more than doing a walkaround while making a video.? Does anybody have any recommendations on home inventory apps they use that aren't too onerous to enter and manage the information about each item?? I think taking pictures with the app but then using my computer to type in relevant information would be the easiest but I'm wondering if anybody else has broken the code on this?
Thanks,
Dave Davies
--
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Re: Fiama magnetic tape alternatives
Just a quick comment on this... I don't know if I would call it ripped off. Joe was really good about helping any FOG members because he knew me and was willing to work with the members. With the new place, you have to realize you are talking a small one-time
purchase, so the pricing will be higher. You could look at it that it's a $27 a foot price and then $80 worth of packaging, labeling and invoicing.
Kind of like when somebody wants me to machine one part... yes, it's a $20 part, but you have $200 worth of set up and tooling to accomplish it.
=============== Brian Lamb blamb11@... Phoenix, AZ ===============
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Thanks a lot, Brian.?? Fiama doesn't provide clear specs on their tape so I would love to stick with the original.? Just resent being ripped off.
Best,
Johannes
-- Brian Lamb blamb11@...? ?
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For my lazy ass, i just took my phone and walked around my shop opening each toolbox drawer and did a video of my inventory of wood and tools. Works well and you wont miss anything.? Taylor Donsker www.tdonsker.com 818.424.9046
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On Mar 12, 2021, at 10:58 AM, Drew Tosh <drew@...> wrote:
? I would build an Airtable database. I did this to inventory tools, and other assets. Photos from phone, text via tablet or Pc.
Airtable.com
Drew This came up on SMC and I need to do something to document everything in my workshop as well as my house and probably something more than doing a walkaround while making a video.? Does anybody have any recommendations on home inventory apps they use that aren't too onerous to enter and manage the information about each item?? I think taking pictures with the app but then using my computer to type in relevant information would be the easiest but I'm wondering if anybody else has broken the code on this?
Thanks,
Dave Davies
-- Drew Tosh Co-Owner
413 S Frontier Ln Cedar Park, TX 78613
Main: 512-553-9663 Mobile: 512-971-7406
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I would build an Airtable database. I did this to inventory tools, and other assets. Photos from phone, text via tablet or Pc.
Airtable.com
Drew
This came up on SMC and I need to do something to document everything in my workshop as well as my house and probably something more than doing a walkaround while making a video.? Does anybody have any recommendations on home inventory apps they use that aren't too onerous to enter and manage the information about each item?? I think taking pictures with the app but then using my computer to type in relevant information would be the easiest but I'm wondering if anybody else has broken the code on this?
Thanks,
Dave Davies
-- Drew Tosh Co-Owner
413 S Frontier Ln Cedar Park, TX 78613
Main: 512-553-9663 Mobile: 512-971-7406
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Re: Fiama magnetic tape alternatives
Thanks a lot! ?Makes sense to see what your quote may be to resupply.?
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On Mar 12, 2021, at 12:36 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
I sell the banding…. Will have to double check the pricing if they have gone up that much, but I’ll let you know.
Thanks a lot, Brian.?? Fiama doesn't provide clear specs on their tape so I would love to stick with the original.? Just resent being ripped off.
Best,
Johannes
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Re: Fiama magnetic tape alternatives
I sell the banding…. Will have to double check the pricing if they have gone up that much, but I’ll let you know.
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Show quoted text
Thanks a lot, Brian.?? Fiama doesn't provide clear specs on their tape so I would love to stick with the original.? Just resent being ripped off.
Best,
Johannes
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Could it be we found something there is not an app for?
r/
David
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Re: Bearing Replacement on KF7
If the Machine has been stood up for 8 years, then bearing grease has almost certainly dried out.
Extracting the shaft is not too difficult a task, however changing the bearings can prove a little challenging.? Having recently done this on my 6 series i would suggest this is a job for an engineering shop.
There are two bearings on the saw shaft with a spacing sleeve in between to prevent any alignment issues (I'll come to that later) the sleeve has been fitted to the shaft while hot so requires a large amount of force?(13.5
tonne on a hydraulic press) to remove .
Ideally you want someone who has an induction coil that will heat the sleeve more than the shaft to help get this off the shaft to change the inner bearing. Likewise, it will need to be heated before trying to refit so as not damage the shaft due to metal transfer.
The saw shaft is no longer available as a spare and the bearing spaced is ?45 this side of the pond.? so these ar parts it is preferable not to damage.
David is correct in stating that you should check the motor and the saw shaft bearing before disassembling anything as it could be either.
With regards to the alignment issue, it is relatively easy to eliminate the shaft from the equation.
If you check that the bearing on the saw side of the casting, it should be almost flush with the milled section on the top of the casting that the two hex head bearing retaining bolts and washers fit into,
if it proud then it's possible that the bearings have been changed previously and either not assembled correctly or not installed correctly.
The splitter arm mounts to the casting with two allen bolts and two roll pins for alignment, in the past if the bolts have worked loose then it is possible for dust to get down between the arm and the casting and push things out of alignment.
It would be worth removing the two bolts and separating the arm and the casting buy an 1/8 of an inch ang giving it a good clean and see if that resolves the issue.
I have attached the part drawing for the K7 saw albeit this slightly pre dates your machine.
I hope this helps
Paul
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I'm a new owner of a 1999 KF7F, I won it at an auction, all I know is that for the last 8 years its been stored in a shop unused. I've got a number of questions about getting it set up they way I would like with various accessories. But the current priority
is addressing a grinding sound coming out of the saw, somewhat intermittent but not going away, and probably getting worse. It started after a few weeks of use at my shop. Its probably a bearing, but before I take it all apart I'd like to know a little more
what I'm getting into. Mostly I'm worried about getting the blade back into an accurate position after the bearing is replaced.
Another issue, potentially related, is with the splitter. The saw came without the splitter, but when I installed a new one from Felder it was offset to the right of the blade by 1/32". I've shimmed it back, but I'm not sure where the issue is. Is the saw spindle
offset, or is the arm holding the splitter bent or offset, or maybe the failed bearing is causing the problem. Any experience there would be helpful.
And lastly, I'm happy to have found this forum. This is my first Felder purchase, and my first slider, so lots to get up to speed on. Thanks for any help.
-Willis
|
This came up on SMC and I need to do something to document everything in my workshop as well as my house and probably something more than doing a walkaround while making a video.? Does anybody have any recommendations on home inventory apps they use that aren't too onerous to enter and manage the information about each item?? I think taking pictures with the app but then using my computer to type in relevant information would be the easiest but I'm wondering if anybody else has broken the code on this?
Thanks,
Dave Davies
|
Re: Fiama magnetic tape alternatives
Thanks a lot, Brian.?? Fiama doesn't provide clear specs on their tape so I would love to stick with the original.? Just resent being ripped off.
Best,
Johannes
|
Re: Bearing Replacement on KF7
What bearings are bad, arbor or motor?? Take off the belt and isolate which bearings.? That is step one.?? Dave
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I'm a new owner of a 1999 KF7F, I won it at an auction, all I know is that for the last 8 years its been stored in a shop unused. I've got a number of questions about getting it set up they way I would like with various accessories. But the current priority
is addressing a grinding sound coming out of the saw, somewhat intermittent but not going away, and probably getting worse. It started after a few weeks of use at my shop. Its probably a bearing, but before I take it all apart I'd like to know a little more
what I'm getting into. Mostly I'm worried about getting the blade back into an accurate position after the bearing is replaced.
Another issue, potentially related, is with the splitter. The saw came without the splitter, but when I installed a new one from Felder it was offset to the right of the blade by 1/32". I've shimmed it back, but I'm not sure where the issue is. Is the saw spindle
offset, or is the arm holding the splitter bent or offset, or maybe the failed bearing is causing the problem. Any experience there would be helpful.
And lastly, I'm happy to have found this forum. This is my first Felder purchase, and my first slider, so lots to get up to speed on. Thanks for any help.
-Willis
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Re: KF 700 not powering up
Good point Shawn. Also easy to miss a pushed in emergency stop. In my case there is a switch on blade/shaper sliding cover.
Definitely should check stop switch circuit before going to caps. You can check for voltage (mine is 24VAC) in the string of switches. If you follow your schematic from voltage source end, then when voltage is present on input of switch and not on output, it is the bad switch.
Imran
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On Mar 12, 2021, at 10:08 AM, Shawn Kammerer via groups.io <shawnkammerer@...> wrote: ?
Hi Jonathan, I’ve had the same issue in the past with my ‘08 KF700, and the culprit was a bad stop switch. You probably have three or four stop switches, two being mushrooms and one or two regular push buttons. The one that went bad on me was the main saw?stop?button. Since the stop buttons are all NC (normally closed), you can check them by taking the two wires out and twisting them together (bypassing the button) and seeing if the saw powers up. There’s probably an easy way to check resistance with a voltmeter also.?Here’s the replacement part from Grainger that I needed: -Shawn On Friday, March 12, 2021, 7:36 AM, jontathan samways <jonathansamways@...> wrote: <IMG_20210309_184709.jpg> <IMG_20210310_091033.jpg>
I'm a relatively new owner of a 2008 KF700.
Just went to use it and it won't start.
Checked and I have power to the saw.
Turned the spindle moulder power switch to reverse rotation and the yellow warning light is not lighting up.
When I switch power to the saw a light comes on in the power box which is labled 9v (see photo)
The blade cover is closed, can't think of any other culprits that would stop it working.
It's located in an off grid situation and is powered by a 10kw Honda ex10d? generator. (my solar powered inverter is 3kw and will not start it).
I've had it running via the generator and was no problem.
My Electrical technician can't help as he is snowed under with work, so any helpful suggestions will be much appreciated.
Jonathan.
<IMG_20210310_091033.jpg> <IMG_20210309_184709.jpg>
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Re: KF 700 not powering up
Jonathan,
That light is in break board and solid on mine means good. It flashes 2 digit fault code if there is a problem.
Have you inspected start/run capacitors? That would be my first guess. I thought you get a hum with a bad capacitor (no start) but I am not sure if that is always the case.
Imran
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On Mar 12, 2021, at 9:36 AM, jontathan samways <jonathansamways@...> wrote: ? <IMG_20210309_184709.jpg> <IMG_20210310_091033.jpg>
I'm a relatively new owner of a 2008 KF700.
Just went to use it and it won't start.
Checked and I have power to the saw.
Turned the spindle moulder power switch to reverse rotation and the yellow warning light is not lighting up.
When I switch power to the saw a light comes on in the power box which is labled 9v (see photo)
The blade cover is closed, can't think of any other culprits that would stop it working.
It's located in an off grid situation and is powered by a 10kw Honda ex10d? generator. (my solar powered inverter is 3kw and will not start it).
I've had it running via the generator and was no problem.
My Electrical technician can't help as he is snowed under with work, so any helpful suggestions will be much appreciated.
Jonathan.
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Re: KF 700 not powering up
Hi Jonathan, I’ve had the same issue in the past with my ‘08 KF700, and the culprit was a bad stop switch. You probably have three or four stop switches, two being mushrooms and one or two regular push buttons. The one that went bad on me was the main saw?stop?button. Since the stop buttons are all NC (normally closed), you can check them by taking the two wires out and twisting them together (bypassing the button) and seeing if the saw powers up. There’s probably an easy way to check resistance with a voltmeter also.?Here’s the replacement part from Grainger that I needed:
On Friday, March 12, 2021, 7:36 AM, jontathan samways <jonathansamways@...> wrote:  
I'm a relatively new owner of a 2008 KF700.
Just went to use it and it won't start.
Checked and I have power to the saw.
Turned the spindle moulder power switch to reverse rotation and the yellow warning light is not lighting up.
When I switch power to the saw a light comes on in the power box which is labled 9v (see photo)
The blade cover is closed, can't think of any other culprits that would stop it working.
It's located in an off grid situation and is powered by a 10kw Honda ex10d? generator. (my solar powered inverter is 3kw and will not start it).
I've had it running via the generator and was no problem.
My Electrical technician can't help as he is snowed under with work, so any helpful suggestions will be much appreciated.
Jonathan.
|
 
I'm a relatively new owner of a 2008 KF700.
Just went to use it and it won't start.
Checked and I have power to the saw.
Turned the spindle moulder power switch to reverse rotation and the yellow warning light is not lighting up.
When I switch power to the saw a light comes on in the power box which is labled 9v (see photo)
The blade cover is closed, can't think of any other culprits that would stop it working.
It's located in an off grid situation and is powered by a 10kw Honda ex10d? generator. (my solar powered inverter is 3kw and will not start it).
I've had it running via the generator and was no problem.
My Electrical technician can't help as he is snowed under with work, so any helpful suggestions will be much appreciated.
Jonathan.
|
imran
Drew Tosh
David
