Greg,
There happens to be one listed on the used Felder site. Link below.?
It is 3 phase, does not have a spiral cutter but does have Digidrive (numeric keypad).?
https://www.world4machines.com/en-us/used-machines
--
Mike B
|
Greg, welcome to the group! This wouldn't happen to be the one and only Greg Mix of Danville, CA, would it? This is Shawn, I built your entry door years ago, even though you could have done it yourself. To everyone else, Greg here built the most beautiful grandfather clock I've seen, along with a Blacker armchair, and other various accoutrement. You're welcome here anytime. But sorry, my 941 is not for sale. -Shawn
On Tuesday, March 2, 2021, 10:05:29 AM PST, <gregnmix@...> wrote:
I am brand new to the Felder Owners Group and joined at a friend's suggestion. I'm looking to purchase a used Felder AD 741 Jointer-Planer, ideally with the spiral cutterhead and power drive table adjustment.? Since I'm new I don't know if this is the right place to post this message. If not I'll appreciate any guidance.?I already have one Felder Machine, the FB 510 Band Saw, and now it's time for Felder number two.
Thanks in advance for any help.
|
Re: BF6 Mounting a power feed
Thanks Mike. I can see what I need to make now! ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Mike Spray
Sent: 02 March 2021 17:45
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] BF6 Mounting a power feed ? I have what I think you¡¯re asking about.? I¡¯ve got the variofeed 4 (a monster, way too heavy.? Wish I bought a strut to assist when I ordered my saw) and have to tilt it out of the way to use the rip fence.? Yes, it attaches to the dovetail.? I don¡¯t see how mounting to the table would work as it¡¯d be on the wrong side of the cut (If I¡¯ve understood your question. ? The user manual mentions a tilting mount for putting a power feed onto a BF6.
I can see why you'd want to swing the feed out of the way on a combi machine.
Does anyone have one of these? Do they attach to the dovetail on the end of the table?
Are there any other options for mounting a power feed to a BF6?
I guess I could just bolt it into the Tee slots on the sliding table?
|
I am brand new to the Felder Owners Group and joined at a friend's suggestion. I'm looking to purchase a used Felder AD 741 Jointer-Planer, ideally with the spiral cutterhead and power drive table adjustment.? Since I'm new I don't know if this is the right place to post this message. If not I'll appreciate any guidance.?I already have one Felder Machine, the FB 510 Band Saw, and now it's time for Felder number two.
Thanks in advance for any help.
|
Re: BF6 Mounting a power feed
The top plate (hinged) dogs down to the base (the orange handles).? Almost moot in my experience given the weight of the power feeder.
Ah yes! Thanks for that. Are there any lockdowns to stop it lifting? I assume they'd go in the open slots.
Just found it on the Felder site. It's only ?300...? I can feel a grinder and welder session coming on...
|
Re: BF6 Mounting a power feed
Ah yes! Thanks for that. Are there any lockdowns to stop it lifting? I assume they'd go in the open slots.
Just found it on the Felder site. It's only ?300...? I can feel a grinder and welder session coming on...
|
Re: BF6 Mounting a power feed
Richard
I have what I think you¡¯re asking about.? I¡¯ve got the variofeed 4 (a monster, way too heavy.? Wish I bought a strut to assist when I ordered my saw) and have to tilt it out of the way to use the rip fence.? Yes, it attaches to the dovetail.? I don¡¯t see how mounting to the table would work as it¡¯d be on the wrong side of the cut (If I¡¯ve understood your question.
Mike
The user manual mentions a tilting mount for putting a power feed onto a BF6.
I can see why you'd want to swing the feed out of the way on a combi machine.
Does anyone have one of these? Do they attach to the dovetail on the end of the table?
Are there any other options for mounting a power feed to a BF6?
I guess I could just bolt it into the Tee slots on the sliding table?
|
Re: BF6 Mounting a power feed
I assume that this is what you're looking for, on my BF6-26.? It looks like it hangs on the dovetail and also has two bolts into the frame of the saw, just above the power cord.
The user manual mentions a tilting mount for putting a power feed onto a BF6.
I can see why you'd want to swing the feed out of the way on a combi machine.
Does anyone have one of these? Do they attach to the dovetail on the end of the table?
Are there any other options for mounting a power feed to a BF6?
I guess I could just bolt it into the Tee slots on the sliding table?
|
BF6 Mounting a power feed
The user manual mentions a tilting mount for putting a power feed onto a BF6.
I can see why you'd want to swing the feed out of the way on a combi machine.
Does anyone have one of these? Do they attach to the dovetail on the end of the table?
Are there any other options for mounting a power feed to a BF6?
I guess I could just bolt it into the Tee slots on the sliding table?
|
An easier way is to have vacuum storage. Just take an old compressor tank and turn it into vacuum storage. Attach it to your lines and use it to suck out the first bunch of air letting your pump do the rest. As long as the tank is airtight you can hold extra vacuum capacity indefinitely.?
On Tue, Mar 2, 2021 at 9:53 AM Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote: As Jonathan just mentioned, a fast way to evacuate a large bag is beneficial. We have a 5x10' zipper bag from Vacupress, and use their pump. It takes a long time to suck the air out of that bag with a 3" tall object being veneered. We started using an extra Fein vac that was sitting around, but any noisy shop vac would do. It's easy with the zipper to stick the vac hose in the last little opening, suck it down quick and let the pump take over. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
612.432.2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
-- _____________________
Fred Rossi 617.905.6497
|
As Jonathan just mentioned, a fast way to evacuate a large bag is beneficial. We have a 5x10' zipper bag from Vacupress, and use their pump. It takes a long time to suck the air out of that bag with a 3" tall object being veneered. We started using an extra Fein vac that was sitting around, but any noisy shop vac would do. It's easy with the zipper to stick the vac hose in the last little opening, suck it down quick and let the pump take over. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
On Mar 2, 2021 01:03, murrayau1 <murraywp@...> wrote:
I have a rather large the veneer job coming up. An architect has designed a fancy roof to go at the rear of our house and it has rather complicated curved beams cut out of LVL beam material. I want to edge each beam and solid timber and apply a 3 mm shop sawn veneer. I think I have worked out a system for setting up the bag but I have no vacuum pump.
Also think about the volume you need to extract. This goes up rapidly as projects get larger especially when using curved shapes.?
You might want two extraction methods. One for fast evacuation of the bulk of the air and a second to maintain the vacuum level you require once the bulk of the air has been evacuated.?
Regards,?
Jonathan?
|
Re: Northfield 32" Bandsaw
Joe,
The first two digits of the serial number indicate the year that it was built.? For example, my Northfield planer's serial number is A-01... and was built in 2001.
? ?Dennis
|
I made the same vacuum pump but used a small cast off air compressor tank for the build. It works great.?
I also have the expensive vacuum press from VacuPress. The kit pump works just as well. It¡¯s just not as heavy duty.?
Gil Fuqua? Nashville?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 1, 2021, at 6:09 PM, Sawdust77 <rscotthanna@...> wrote:
? I made this vacuum pump for veneering and am very?happy with it:
?- Scott On Mon, Mar 1, 2021 at 7:04 PM murrayau1 < murraywp@...> wrote: I have a rather large the veneer job coming up. An architect has designed a fancy roof to go at the rear of our house and it has rather complicated curved beams cut out of LVL beam material. I want to edge each beam and solid timber and apply a 3 mm shop sawn veneer. I think I have worked out a system for setting up the bag but I have no vacuum pump.
Some years back I did a small veneer in job for some plywood draw bottoms and I just used a vacuum storage bag from the grocery store, a large and very powerful Mile?vacuum cleaner rigged up to a timer switch so it cycled on and off. It worked out really well and after 15 years there is no sign of any problems.
This time around I don't want to use the vacuum cleaner, but purpose made vacuum press pumps are hugely expensive. You can get much cheaper vacuum pumps designed for removing refrigerant gas and many of these produce more than enough vacuum for the purpose. I did a bit of research on the Internet and there was plenty of people claiming success? veneering with these pumps. There were however a couple of issues that they noted.?I know nothing about these refrigerant pumps but it would seem that they must use a thick film of oil between the piston and the cylinder to achieve the vacuum and as a result they consume quite a bit of oil and exhaust a fine oilly mist. Furthermore it would seem that when the system cycles off if there is any leakage in the bag oil can be sucked up towards the workpiece. The suggested solutions are to fit and non-return valve and try and place the pump outside. I'll be doing the job outside anyway so this shouldn't be an issue.
Another possible cheaper option is using a venturi valve system, they seem to work well for small jobs but I'm concerned they may not be up to the task of the large beams that I am attempting to veneer.
I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with these pumps or any suggestions or comments on the above.
Thanks in advance
Murray
|
I would suggest checking out ?as well.
I have two small vacuum pumps, one a no name brand from Amazon and the other a Gast that i bout off eBay for about $60.
The no name brand uses oil and as you have read, will exhaust a very fine vapor mist of oil, but I just lay a rag over the top of the exhaust port and that condenses the mist and collects the misted vapor.?
If your project is large, I¡¯d probably use a couple of small cheap pumps.
I use my vacuum pumps for holding workpiece on my wood lathe as I usually finish the bottom of a bowl or workpiece and also for making plywood core veneer sheets.
Here¡¯s my vacuum pump on my lathe. ?
Chris Edwards (407) 902-1358 cell
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have a rather large the veneer job coming up. An architect has designed a fancy roof to go at the rear of our house and it has rather complicated curved beams cut out of LVL beam material. I want to edge each beam and solid timber and apply a 3 mm shop sawn veneer. I think I have worked out a system for setting up the bag but I have no vacuum pump.
Some years back I did a small veneer in job for some plywood draw bottoms and I just used a vacuum storage bag from the grocery store, a large and very powerful Mile?vacuum cleaner rigged up to a timer switch so it cycled on and off. It worked out really well and after 15 years there is no sign of any problems.
This time around I don't want to use the vacuum cleaner, but purpose made vacuum press pumps are hugely expensive. You can get much cheaper vacuum pumps designed for removing refrigerant gas and many of these produce more than enough vacuum for the purpose. I did a bit of research on the Internet and there was plenty of people claiming success? veneering with these pumps. There were however a couple of issues that they noted.?I know nothing about these refrigerant pumps but it would seem that they must use a thick film of oil between the piston and the cylinder to achieve the vacuum and as a result they consume quite a bit of oil and exhaust a fine oilly mist. Furthermore it would seem that when the system cycles off if there is any leakage in the bag oil can be sucked up towards the workpiece. The suggested solutions are to fit and non-return valve and try and place the pump outside. I'll be doing the job outside anyway so this shouldn't be an issue.
Another possible cheaper option is using a venturi valve system, they seem to work well for small jobs but I'm concerned they may not be up to the task of the large beams that I am attempting to veneer.
I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with these pumps or any suggestions or comments on the above.
Thanks in advance
Murray
|
Murray:
Years ago I made the investment in a true vacuum pump system and other than my Felder slider it has been my best investment. I use it all the time for everything from veneering to gluing up parts. I know they cost a bit but they're worth it. One bit advice with shop sawn veneers and glues: keep the veneers as thin as possible (1/8" max) and use a true veneer glue for a rigid glue line. That will eliminate veneer splitting and creep.
Best,
Fred Rossi
On Mon, Mar 1, 2021 at 7:04 PM murrayau1 < murraywp@...> wrote: I have a rather large the veneer job coming up. An architect has designed a fancy roof to go at the rear of our house and it has rather complicated curved beams cut out of LVL beam material. I want to edge each beam and solid timber and apply a 3 mm shop sawn veneer. I think I have worked out a system for setting up the bag but I have no vacuum pump.
Some years back I did a small veneer in job for some plywood draw bottoms and I just used a vacuum storage bag from the grocery store, a large and very powerful Mile?vacuum cleaner rigged up to a timer switch so it cycled on and off. It worked out really well and after 15 years there is no sign of any problems.
This time around I don't want to use the vacuum cleaner, but purpose made vacuum press pumps are hugely expensive. You can get much cheaper vacuum pumps designed for removing refrigerant gas and many of these produce more than enough vacuum for the purpose. I did a bit of research on the Internet and there was plenty of people claiming success? veneering with these pumps. There were however a couple of issues that they noted.?I know nothing about these refrigerant pumps but it would seem that they must use a thick film of oil between the piston and the cylinder to achieve the vacuum and as a result they consume quite a bit of oil and exhaust a fine oilly mist. Furthermore it would seem that when the system cycles off if there is any leakage in the bag oil can be sucked up towards the workpiece. The suggested solutions are to fit and non-return valve and try and place the pump outside. I'll be doing the job outside anyway so this shouldn't be an issue.
Another possible cheaper option is using a venturi valve system, they seem to work well for small jobs but I'm concerned they may not be up to the task of the large beams that I am attempting to veneer.
I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with these pumps or any suggestions or comments on the above.
Thanks in advance
Murray
-- _____________________
Fred Rossi 617.905.6497
|
I made this vacuum pump for veneering and am very?happy with it:
?- Scott
On Mon, Mar 1, 2021 at 7:04 PM murrayau1 < murraywp@...> wrote: I have a rather large the veneer job coming up. An architect has designed a fancy roof to go at the rear of our house and it has rather complicated curved beams cut out of LVL beam material. I want to edge each beam and solid timber and apply a 3 mm shop sawn veneer. I think I have worked out a system for setting up the bag but I have no vacuum pump.
Some years back I did a small veneer in job for some plywood draw bottoms and I just used a vacuum storage bag from the grocery store, a large and very powerful Mile?vacuum cleaner rigged up to a timer switch so it cycled on and off. It worked out really well and after 15 years there is no sign of any problems.
This time around I don't want to use the vacuum cleaner, but purpose made vacuum press pumps are hugely expensive. You can get much cheaper vacuum pumps designed for removing refrigerant gas and many of these produce more than enough vacuum for the purpose. I did a bit of research on the Internet and there was plenty of people claiming success? veneering with these pumps. There were however a couple of issues that they noted.?I know nothing about these refrigerant pumps but it would seem that they must use a thick film of oil between the piston and the cylinder to achieve the vacuum and as a result they consume quite a bit of oil and exhaust a fine oilly mist. Furthermore it would seem that when the system cycles off if there is any leakage in the bag oil can be sucked up towards the workpiece. The suggested solutions are to fit and non-return valve and try and place the pump outside. I'll be doing the job outside anyway so this shouldn't be an issue.
Another possible cheaper option is using a venturi valve system, they seem to work well for small jobs but I'm concerned they may not be up to the task of the large beams that I am attempting to veneer.
I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with these pumps or any suggestions or comments on the above.
Thanks in advance
Murray
|
I have a rather large? veneer job coming up. An architect has designed a fancy roof to go at the rear of our house and it has rather complicated curved beams cut out of LVL beam material. I want to edge each beam and solid timber and apply a 3 mm shop sawn veneer. I think I have worked out a system for setting up the bag but I have no vacuum pump.
Some years back I did a small veneer in job for some plywood draw bottoms and I just used a vacuum storage bag from the grocery store, a large and very powerful Mile?vacuum cleaner rigged up to a timer switch so it cycled on and off. It worked out really well and after 15 years there is no sign of any problems.
This time around I don't want to use the vacuum cleaner, but purpose made vacuum press pumps are hugely expensive. You can get much cheaper vacuum pumps designed for removing refrigerant gas and many of these produce more than enough vacuum for the purpose. I did a bit of research on the Internet and there were plenty of people claiming success? veneering with these pumps. There were however a couple of issues that they noted.?I know nothing about these refrigerant pumps but it would seem that they must use a thick film of oil between the piston and the cylinder to achieve the vacuum and as a result they consume quite a bit of oil and exhaust a fine oilly mist. Furthermore it would seem that when the system cycles off if there is any leakage in the bag oil can be sucked up towards the workpiece. The suggested solutions are to fit and non-return valve and try and place the pump outside. I'll be doing the job outside anyway so this shouldn't be an issue.
Another possible cheaper option is using a venturi valve system, they seem to work well for small jobs but I'm concerned they may not be up to the task of the large beams that I am attempting to veneer.
I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with these pumps or any suggestions or comments on the above.
Thanks in advance
Murray
|
Re: Problem with Rise and Fall motor on Felder Format4 Kappa 550 Sliding Table Saw
#welcome
Eejit,
If you are not familiar, Google Translate is awesome. Just use camera and it will convert german to english words. You can freeze results otherwise it continues to give options. It usually works good enough. It translated safety or emergency (can¡¯t recall) to care.
Pure speculation on menu not poping due to a signal. It is more likely that menus are fixed however it is not impossible that someone designed a menu to pop up only when there is an error condition, usually done to declutter the screen.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 1, 2021, at 12:45 PM, Eejit <aaron@...> wrote: ?Thanks for the replies so far.
Imran, we are based in London, UK.
I've been trying to go through the schematics myself but as they are in German it is quite difficult to orientated. If I can narrow it down to the relevant sections I'll try send something over. I've got the covers off so I'm going to see if I can physically work out where things go and identify possible points of failure.
I happened to find the old rise and fall motor the engineer took out of the machine and connected it to a 24v transformer. It works fine from a mechanical point of view. There are 3 other leads that come out of it which I'm trying to work out what they are for - perhaps limit switches and signal cable to the control panel, but I feel that this is a signal issue and not a hardware issue.
Are you speculating that not having a signal prevents a menu from popping up, or do you know that to be true??
I wish the machine had a hand operated way of moving the blade up or down.
|
Roger,
The April edition of Fine woodworking has the style of power carver I was talking about.? ?His is an Automach, mine is a Skil with an adapter for flexcut chisels.??
Marlowe?
On Fri, Feb 26, 2021, 3:27 PM Roger S < rsinden@...> wrote: Thanks Trevor.? I¡¯m leaning towards one of those dedicated machines.
Hi Roger,
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? I purchased an Abortech and tried in on both ?walnut ?and maple seats for Maloof rockers. In both cases I found it to be way too aggressive ,if not dangerous.
A 41/2' mini grinder with a rubber backing pad and a selection of course disks has been the go to tool ever since.
Trevor Lusty
|
Fred Rossi
Jason Holtz
Jonathan Martens
imran