Okay, Is the low end still aligned with cutter head, or is one corner out?
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Hamish,
Please see response below. I believe the infeed table is ?low on the far end. I have had this machine for almost a year and this is a new issue. Thanks for your help!
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You are setting the table level with the top of the insert cutting? arc, correct?? Dave
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I had not been in the shop for a couple of months due to a surgery and when I used it the outfeed table ?appeared to be ?high. I tried to lower the outfeed table according to the setup guide and It is still about 52 thousands over the head ( not the inserts).
I haven’t got to the infeed table yet. ?Like I said I am out of my element here.
Thanks,
JT?
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Hamish,
Please see response below. I believe the infeed table is ?low on the far end. I have had this machine for almost a year and this is a new issue. Thanks for your help!
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I had not been in the shop for a couple of months due to a surgery and when I used it the outfeed table ?appeared to be ?high. I tried to lower the outfeed table according to the setup guide and It is still about 52 thousands over the head ( not the inserts). I haven’t got to the infeed table yet. ?Like I said I am out of my element here.
Thanks,
JT?
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Were you getting issues? with the machine's performance before you noticed the tables were not coplanar?
Are you only concerned with the tables in relation to the cutterhead, and each other table? Or are we also dealing with a rise or sagging of one or more of the tables at the ends of each table
I ask this because the tolerances to achieve excellent cuts is probably a lot more than you would first think. Most tables are not absolutely perfectly aligned, due to very slight warps in the castings, yet the machines manage to be able to produce flat and
true board faces.
As you have already started to tinker, its quite possible you are in already chasing your tail trying to attain unobtainable precision. Hope I will be able to help when I understand your situation a bit better. I am confident you will be able to get optimal
performance, unless there is a serious manufacturing error, or post production damage.
Hamish.
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Can someone tell me where to find the specs for the A3-31. My infeed/outfeed are no longer co-planer. I am trying to setup the outfeed table and would like to know the distance to the cutter head. I won’t lie I am struggling with this. I did find the ?A3-31
adjustment guide. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
John Terry
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I would just adjust the outfeed to be parallel to the cutter head. So when you raise or lower the outfeed table so it doesn't hit the cutters/blades. Then adjust the in-feed to be co-planar to the outfeed table. Not sure what the actually spec is but I won't get to wound around the axle about it.?
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Thanks for sharing this, However I still don’t see what the tolerance is from the outfeed table to the cutter head.
Thanks,
JT
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?This was shared here some time ago
Imran
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This was shared here some time ago
Imran
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Can someone tell me where to find the specs for the A3-31. My infeed/outfeed are no longer co-planer. I am trying to setup the outfeed table and would like to know the distance to the cutter head. I won’t lie I am struggling with this. I did find the ?A3-31 adjustment guide. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
John Terry
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Re: Start Capacitor Value
Ariel,
I have even heard of blank ICs with no silicon whatsoever, LOL
I retired end of 2019 and prior to that our company split into Aptiv and Delphi Technologies (which was later acquired by Borg Warner). Anyhow, as a result Delphi T built a new plant in Suzhou where my product was built. Due to stop and start we had part shortage issues in startup. I spent bunch of time just making sure we got good parts.
Imran
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On Jan 21, 2021, at 2:36 PM, ahazi <ariel.hazi@...> wrote: ?Imran, you are right about potential counterfeit of electronic components, it has a history that goes back to the 80's with memory chips being "remarked" and later on with more silicon products either copied with very loose spec or rejected IC dies that were packaged, marked and sold as good components. Big issue with supply chain from China.
It is a big problem these days on Amazon especially with LiOn batteries so I can assume that the problem might exist now with passive components too including switches. eBay is a good source if you are very careful with the supplier and if you have properly calibrated expectations.
Digi-Key and Mouser are both good sources. I knew them fairly well 15+ years ago when they licensed my software product to manage their product catalogs.
Ariel
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Re: Start Capacitor Value
Imran, you are right about potential counterfeit of electronic components, it has a history that goes back to the 80's with memory chips being "remarked" and later on with more silicon products either copied with very loose spec or rejected IC dies that were packaged, marked and sold as good components. Big issue with supply chain from China.
It is a big problem these days on Amazon especially with LiOn batteries so I can assume that the problem might exist now with passive components too including switches. eBay is a good source if you are very careful with the supplier and if you have properly calibrated expectations.
Digi-Key and Mouser are both good sources. I knew them fairly well 15+ years ago when they licensed my software product to manage their product catalogs.
Ariel
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I should think? that some enterprising? person? would long ago?
have? started churning out 3-d printer versions of these things.
My Hammer? ZCI iused to be a real PITA? to make but I figured?
out how to produce them? more efficiently with? fixturing? on the
router table.? Now that I'm running a full size vertical knee mill
I'll prolly take the job to the milling machine and speed it up
even more.
There's a guy who sells the ZCI for hammer machines for? almost
$70,? not a price I'd pay.??
On 1/19/21 11:25 PM, Mark Kessler
wrote:
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So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I
would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to
David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940
saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be
the same however I have the LED lights so wasn’t sure if
David would be willing to modify his design and if it would
be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth
emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions
were slightly different and could require a few iterations
to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings,
however after I started to model it and compared it to my
parts in hand it wasn’t adding up so I had to abandon the
drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual
parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as
it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check
fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all
the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined
in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the
only way to find out was to remove it which would
obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect
schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced
myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I
screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed
LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being
long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight
against the cast...
??
Below is the auto
score feature in action with the as delivered LED
section?
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Hi Paul,
My pet hate too!? The gap in between the tables, always seems you want to mount the fence right in it! They used to make a fence extension that could be used here it was part no EZ A(14/14)? I tried to get one years ago but Felder told me they didn't have any and weren't re-stocking!
It features in the1997/8 accessories brochure.
Regards,? Martin.
On Thursday, 21 January 2021, 14:30:38 GMT, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
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Martin,?
I had forgotten about the old cast iron clamp on extension,?
I'm pretty sure that the cast extension in the drawing bolted to the planner table on the 6-41, and was only available in the F coupling.
Could you send the whole parts drawing? so I can figure it out.
Thanks
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Paul,?
I think Felder originally had a bent piece hey of U channel ?than later came out with a cast block with f couplings. They bolted table
edge ?they made s to s ?and s to f think
 
 F 
Designing and building for 50 years
On Jan 21, 2021, at 8:37 AM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
?
Paul,
? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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Re: Job site saw recommendation?
On 1/21/21 9:54 AM, Bill James via groups.io wrote: if well supported infeed and outfeed I should think that all that other stuff must become fastened securely? to the saw thus adding to its mass.?? It's either that or the saw will rattle around? inside the confines of the external tables
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The S Coupling has always been a bit of a challenge to set up and maintain,?
I have looked at bolting F rails onto the dovetail to convert the whole machine up to the F Coupling but you end up with a bit of a dog breakfast and not a lot of material to engage the top levelling screw into.
I never fancied? taking the tables off the chassis to machine off the dovetail and fit the F rails, and then re-fit the tables which is the other option.
The edge web of the saw table is only 8mm thick so I'm not confident about cantilevering 6" extension table off that edge.
I'm going to use the infill plate slot and a steel strip to level the top surface so alignment should not be an issue.
In steel the table is 16lbs after a diet and then there is the weigh that could end up on top of it.
Aluminium would be about 4lbs as I would have to thicken some bits, but then there is the hassle of getting it hard anodized.
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Hi Paul,
Never liked the S coupling to hard to set extension tables and maintain accuracy. I would change to F
A few things i did way back when that were helpful?
Motorized planer table, used a 120 volt Bodine gear motor.it was easy to use manual or with motor no gear stress , instant reverse salvaged Hospital bed motor think i bought 3 at a junk store for $7.00 each.
Had limit switches at top and bottom of stroke . and a AB joy stick that eliminated the hassle, joy stick would? stay up or down? and? able to micro adjust.
I also put gas cylinders on the tables and they would lift themselves.?
On Thursday, January 21, 2021, 09:10:54 AM CST, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
Dave thanks for the suggestion.
I haven't had time to model the machine chassis yet but below is the type of infill I was thinking of.
I have extended it down past the Table hinge to allow for a second vertical support to the chassis.
I am working with the S coupling on my machine I did wonder whether it was possible to use the?
stock hammer extension and just re machine the coupling as you can carve an S Coupling out of an F Coupling.
Paul,
? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
@This is a great point. ?It has been a few years since I've used a traditional table saw..... that blade is going to feel very close!”
ditto on working without clamps on slider. I did not realize how used to clamps I have become on my KF700 until I got K975. I felt uncomfortable working on it without clamps. So that was my first accessory for K975.
Imran
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On Jan 21, 2021, at 10:20 AM, Anthony Quesada <tonymiga2@...> wrote: ? Great feedback guys....you are bringing up some great questions and ideas. ?Jason and Mac, thanks for the recommendations!?Cliff - Height- Really good consideration that I hadn't thought of. ?hmmmm.?
Hamish Casimir- "One of the few negatives are the slots for the mitre gauge." Great intel. ?
"Also the thicker Euro shaft will prevent you from using standard US,? 5/8" shaft sized saw blades, dado stacks etc." ?
? ? ? ? ? ?Also good info. ?I don't have any standard blades having moved on from my earlier cabinet saw when I bought the felder. ?I imagine any saw I get I will need to purchase a few blades as well. ?But super helpful regardless!?
Imran-?
?
"I am not sure if your dad will work on anything large in size" - We have a ?track saw and an adjustable height table, that I picture using as an indeed or outfield support when needed. ?But I picture breaking down big stuff with the track saw before bringing it to the job site saw. ?
"Theft is not uncommon on job sites" ?This is also a great point! ?Had some stuff disappear the last time I built a house. ?That was in the city where it is the cost of doing business, but that is certainly something that is worth considering.... bummer
Bill James - I am certainly better with a table saw than a circular saw! ?Regrettably I never worked on a construction crew as a kid and feel like I never earned my stripes with a circular saw. ?
Michael- Saw stop- "But after using a slider and hold downs, when I do use it I am getting a lot closer to a blade than I am comfortable with" ?
? ? This is a great point. ?It has been a few years since I've used a traditional table saw..... that blade is going to feel very close!?
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Jason, missed the LED light question.
Is an option on the k940 and up, indicates that the scoring is on and up. I really like it, because use aolid wood for the most part i use the scoring either infrequently or multiple times a week depending and can forget (even within a few hours that I left it on, now you could argue that since I have auto scoring whats the need, it drops when the saw is off well if you don’t turn off the switch and don’t use the shop for a few days it’s pretty easy to forget its on. It’s pretty inexpensive i think i paid $300 and I grow money on trees 2 months out of the year so... when I had my business my slider only ever saw sheet goods so you new the scoring was up. I still think it’s a wise investment for $300, for sure in a hobby shop and even a commercial shop?
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On Jan 21, 2021, at 9:45 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
? Mark, Just curious about your need for a zci. Is it solely to keep offcuts from getting sucked down the throat? I know with sufficient dust?collection this is an issue on our KF. I bought one of John Renzatti's inserts years ago, but it's never actually been on the saw. We tilt the blade often enough that it would be a huge hassle.
What's this LED light?business?all about? Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Jason,
Curious if your KF has scoring. I bought ZCI from John R for my KF sans scoring and never installed it.
K975 is a diff story. I don’t care much if the off cuts go down in DC. However, more often than not it is a violent event scoring running or not. Sometimes the piece gets wedged and dances on the turning scoring blade. I am afraid something will get damaged.
Imran
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On Jan 21, 2021, at 9:45 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote: ? Mark, Just curious about your need for a zci. Is it solely to keep offcuts from getting sucked down the throat? I know with sufficient dust?collection this is an issue on our KF. I bought one of John Renzatti's inserts years ago, but it's never actually been on the saw. We tilt the blade often enough that it would be a huge hassle.
What's this LED light?business?all about? Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Jterry
David
imran