Re: Electrical Problem with CF731 Pro
Hi Imran,
Thanks for your thoughts.? I have disconnected what I presumed was the offending motor.? Made no difference.? I have checked resistance across all three fields of each 3 phase motor, 1-2, 1-3, 2-3.? Everything there is normal, no red flags.? I attached the Table Saw motor to the Shaper position on the selector switch, and that motor runs just fine from that position on the selector.
I then wired the Shaper motor to the Table Saw position on the selector switch and, predictably, it would not start.? The Shaper motor works fine connected to its regular location on the switch.
I have also checked continuity on every switch on the machine.? All three safety micro switches, all three stop buttons, all three start buttons.? No failures indicated, at least in continuity tests.
I have made videos of each motor starting and stopping, focusing on the two relays which sequence with the Inverter.? The progression goes: Push start button, K-1 closes (a pair of paddles are visible in a window), the Inverter sends a start signal which closes K-2 (visible by a latch the pulls in when closed and audible from a loud click that latch makes), motor spins.? Push stop, K-2 instantly closes, K-1 remains open until the Inverter decides braking is complete, and then K-1 closes
My next move is to remove the Table Saw stop button from the equation.? Since these are wired in parallel, taking it out might answer the question of whether it is at fault.
Until then, I'll look at Annu's posts.
Thanks,
Greg
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Re: Electrical Problem with CF731 Pro
Hi Brian,?
I have checked all start and stop buttons, for continuity across the switch, whether N/O or N/C. No problems but I will now triple check since it is a possibility. I am going to entirely remove the table saw switches from equation and see what happens, if anything.
Thanks for the suggestions.?
Greg
On Wed, Jan 20, 2021, 6:46 AM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Did you check your saw start button? They tend to get dust inside them and malfunction. Each green button is Normally Open and when you push it, the circuit connects and starts the motor. Each function has it¡¯s own start button. The stop buttons are all in a string, so if any of them are pushed, it will stop any function/motor on the machine.
Hello.? I've been experiencing exasperating problems with the start function on my machine. I can now probably write a book about this, but suffice to say that when the selector switch is set to Table Saw, the machine fails to start.? I've worked quite a bit with Phillip Dingus at Felder.? He's been a champion, but we've failed to figure out what is happening.? I sprung for a whopping $700 to buy a new selector switch, which I meticulously installed, terminal for terminal, wire for wire, with zero effect.? The machine will start when set to J/P and Shaper, in forward or reverse, but any time the selector passes through TDC (which is the Table Saw), no machine will subsequently start.? I am wondering if there is anyone in the group who is sufficiently wise in the ways of electrical engineering to help me through the wiring diagram to perhaps pinpoint what is going wrong.? I have also traced every single wire in the machine, and compared the "as-is" wiring to the wiring diagram furnished by Felder.? There are some anomalies, but the machine worked flawlessly as wired for 19-1/2 years, so...go figure.? Any ideas of where to turn?? Thanks!? Greg
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Re: Calibration of power drive angle
I¡¯m with Lucky on this one. ?I have not found that the digital angle indicators produce very accurate results when used the set the angle stops on the saw trunion.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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On Jan 20, 2021, at 12:26 PM, David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
Hi Mark:
When calibrating my Kappa, I tried the tilt box method and was surprised how inaccurate it was for me. Maybe the fact that the tilt box is not accurate enough, or maybe the fact that a saw blade body is not necessary ground flat, or a combo?
For me, making test cuts in timber and measuring the results yielded the best calibration. 90 degree cuts in two thickish pieces, butt together and check with a straight edge. 45 degree cuts and then check for square.?
I¡¯d be interested in whether the tilt box works for you. Cheers.? ? I have the procedure, is a digital tilt box accurate enough or am I better of using a vernier scale protractor like the Mitutoyo 187-201. Looks like the tilt boxes are accurate within .2deg.
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Re: Job site saw recommendation?
I too have that little Dewalt. I can't find much fault with it either. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Calibration of power drive angle
Hi Mark:
When calibrating my Kappa, I tried the tilt box method and was surprised how inaccurate it was for me. Maybe the fact that the tilt box is not accurate enough, or maybe the fact that a saw blade body is not necessary ground flat, or a combo?
For me, making test cuts in timber and measuring the results yielded the best calibration. 90 degree cuts in two thickish pieces, butt together and check with a straight edge. 45 degree cuts and then check for square.?
I¡¯d be interested in whether the tilt box works for you. Cheers.?
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On 21 Jan 2021, at 4:52 am, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? I have the procedure, is a digital tilt box accurate enough or am I better of using a vernier scale protractor like the Mitutoyo 187-201. Looks like the tilt boxes are accurate within .2deg.
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Re: Job site saw recommendation?
James and Bird,?
Thanks for the responses! I'll certainly add the Dewalt to the list of saws to check out. ?Always love hearing positive responses from members here. ?
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On Jan 20, 2021, at 1:28 PM, Bird Cupps < birdc@...> wrote:
I have used the Dewalt for years. I love that saw. It¡¯s got a solid little fence that doesn¡¯t flex because it¡¯s locked down at both ends. I use it all the time.
Since you will give the saw to your dad eventually, then buy the best job site saw, that is a great way to say Thank You.
James On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 12:17 PM Anthony Quesada < tonymiga2@...> wrote: As mentioned previously, we are about to start the new workshop.? Looking for a stop-gap saw to help with the construction and until I move into the bigger space where I will get another slider.? There will be a full time contractor with his own tools, but I will be helping out and will want to be making things on nights and weekends too over the next year +. ? ?
Any recommendations for "job site" saw I¡¯ll be able to use for the barn construction and for occasional site work down the road?? I have a track saw so I will be using this TS more for repetitive rips and cross cuts (with sled). ? ?
I believe that Mac has an Erika and seems to like it?? From what I have seen and heard at the mafell forums, it looks like a fantastic saw.? Any other brand or model recommendations from those that may have a smaller saw in their arsenal or should the Erika be at the top of the list? ? ?
I also plan on gifting this saw to my dad (we share the shop space) once I get a slider.? He doesn¡¯t have any interest in learning how to use the sliding saw, but since he has so graciously allowed me to move into his shop and now add an addition I want to give him a little thank you and upgrade his 40 year old ¡°job site saw.¡± ?
thanks so much,? Anthony?
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Re: Calibration of power drive angle
ack¡ closer to 2 times better, so your choice. Neither one are very close when you are talking metal working, but for wood¡.
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On Jan 20, 2021, at 1:04 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Graduations on the Mitutoyo are 5 minutes, that¡¯s 1/12?, which is .00145¡± per inch, which by my math is roughly 3 times better than .0035¡±.
Thanks, is it even possible to set a vernier like the Mitutoyo within that range? Assuming it is calibrated and you are staring at the scale dead on On Jan 20, 2021, at 2:22 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? That¡¯s (.2?) basically .0035¡± per inch¡ your decision.
I have the procedure, is a digital tilt box accurate enough or am I better of using a vernier scale protractor like the Mitutoyo 187-201. Looks like the tilt boxes are accurate within .2deg.
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Re: Calibration of power drive angle
Graduations on the Mitutoyo are 5 minutes, that¡¯s 1/12?, which is .00145¡± per inch, which by my math is roughly 3 times better than .0035¡±.
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Thanks, is it even possible to set a vernier like the Mitutoyo within that range? Assuming it is calibrated and you are staring at the scale dead on On Jan 20, 2021, at 2:22 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? That¡¯s (.2?) basically .0035¡± per inch¡ your decision.
I have the procedure, is a digital tilt box accurate enough or am I better of using a vernier scale protractor like the Mitutoyo 187-201. Looks like the tilt boxes are accurate within .2deg.
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Re: Calibration of power drive angle
Thanks, is it even possible to set a vernier like the Mitutoyo within that range? Assuming it is calibrated and you are staring at the scale dead on
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On Jan 20, 2021, at 2:22 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? That¡¯s (.2?) basically .0035¡± per inch¡ your decision.
I have the procedure, is a digital tilt box accurate enough or am I better of using a vernier scale protractor like the Mitutoyo 187-201. Looks like the tilt boxes are accurate within .2deg.
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Re: Calibration of power drive angle
That¡¯s (.2?) basically .0035¡± per inch¡ your decision.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have the procedure, is a digital tilt box accurate enough or am I better of using a vernier scale protractor like the Mitutoyo 187-201. Looks like the tilt boxes are accurate within .2deg.
|
Calibration of power drive angle
I have the procedure, is a digital tilt box accurate enough or am I better of using a vernier scale protractor like the Mitutoyo 187-201. Looks like the tilt boxes are accurate within .2deg.
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
I have used the Dewalt for years. I love that saw. It¡¯s got a solid little fence that doesn¡¯t flex because it¡¯s locked down at both ends. I use it all the time.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Since you will give the saw to your dad eventually, then buy the best job site saw, that is a great way to say Thank You.
James On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 12:17 PM Anthony Quesada < tonymiga2@...> wrote: As mentioned previously, we are about to start the new workshop.? Looking for a stop-gap saw to help with the construction and until I move into the bigger space where I will get another slider.? There will be a full time contractor with his own tools, but I will be helping out and will want to be making things on nights and weekends too over the next year +. ? ?
Any recommendations for "job site" saw I¡¯ll be able to use for the barn construction and for occasional site work down the road?? I have a track saw so I will be using this TS more for repetitive rips and cross cuts (with sled). ? ?
I believe that Mac has an Erika and seems to like it?? From what I have seen and heard at the mafell forums, it looks like a fantastic saw.? Any other brand or model recommendations from those that may have a smaller saw in their arsenal or should the Erika be at the top of the list? ? ?
I also plan on gifting this saw to my dad (we share the shop space) once I get a slider.? He doesn¡¯t have any interest in learning how to use the sliding saw, but since he has so graciously allowed me to move into his shop and now add an addition I want to give him a little thank you and upgrade his 40 year old ¡°job site saw.¡± ?
thanks so much,? Anthony?
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Thanks Joe. Luckily David Best suggested that I keep the stock fence plates when I upgraded, so I still have them. Since I have a router table, I'm wondering if all the switching time is really worth it. I think not, for most?jobs...
Bill B¨¦langer
Bill, if you don¡¯t modify the hood as other described you need to use the Felder plates.? I ordered my machine with the Aigner option and they shipped
with the Felder plates too.
?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Bill Belanger
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2021 8:36 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Shaper as Router
?
Thanks Imran. I have the router belt, it only aligns with the third pulley on the motor.
The router spindle is unlike the shaper spindle and has only one pulley built into?it.
I¡¯ll check the threads for John¡¯s mod.
?
On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 07:54 imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
On KF700 router spindle requires it¡¯s own belt.
On KF700 hood a modification is needed that John Kee shared for full or better use of router bits.
On Jan 20, 2021, at 9:49 AM, Bill B¨¦langer <Bllblngr@...> wrote:
?So yesterday I needed a roundover on a 1/2 piece of oak so I figured this is great time to try my new F700Z as a router.
First thing I noticed is that the belt will not fit on the lower motor pulley as shown on the placard on the front of the machine where it looks like you'd get 15,000 RPMs.
It will only go on the 3rd one down.
Second is that with the aigner fence, It will not go back far enough to get to the bearing on the top of the roundover bit.
You cannot use the full bit.
I'm wondering if the original Felder fence will facilitate that last 5mm of travel?
Thanks in advance
Bill B¨¦langer
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Re: Start Capacitor Value
I bought the on/off switches for K975 on ebay which basically is a mechanical part. For readily available electrical component like the start cap, that I only need one of in a decade I prefer reliable sources. Did the same for the RPC build or repair of brake board. Actually, I do not recall buying an electrical component on ebay.
In my last yrs at work, we had to put new checks in place for spot buying to ensure we do not get counterfeit components.
I imagine 99/100 times one be fine buying electrical components on ebay. I have not looked but if reputable distributors like Arrow, Newark, Allied, Mouser, Digi-key sell on ebay, it should be okay as well.
just my $0.02
Imran
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On Jan 20, 2021, at 12:05 PM, ahazi <ariel.hazi@...> wrote: ?I find eBay to be a great source for these items with competitive prices and included shipping. Take a look:
Price:
Ariel
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Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Since you will give the saw to your dad eventually, then buy the best job site saw, that is a great way to say Thank You.
James
On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 12:17 PM Anthony Quesada < tonymiga2@...> wrote: As mentioned previously, we are about to start the new workshop.? Looking for a stop-gap saw to help with the construction and until I move into the bigger space where I will get another slider.? There will be a full time contractor with his own tools, but I will be helping out and will want to be making things on nights and weekends too over the next year +. ?
?
Any recommendations for "job site" saw I¡¯ll be able to use for the barn construction and for occasional site work down the road?? I have a track saw so I will be using this TS more for repetitive rips and cross cuts (with sled). ?
?
I believe that Mac has an Erika and seems to like it?? From what I have seen and heard at the mafell forums, it looks like a fantastic saw.? Any other brand or model recommendations from those that may have a smaller saw in their arsenal or should the Erika be at the top of the list? ?
?
I also plan on gifting this saw to my dad (we share the shop space) once I get a slider.? He doesn¡¯t have any interest in learning how to use the sliding saw, but since he has so graciously allowed me to move into his shop and now add an addition I want to give him a little thank you and upgrade his 40 year old ¡°job site saw.¡±
?
thanks so much,?
Anthony?
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Job site saw recommendation?
As mentioned previously, we are about to start the new workshop.? Looking for a stop-gap saw to help with the construction and until I move into the bigger space where I will get another slider.? There will be a full time contractor with his own tools, but I will be helping out and will want to be making things on nights and weekends too over the next year +. ?
?
Any recommendations for "job site" saw I¡¯ll be able to use for the barn construction and for occasional site work down the road?? I have a track saw so I will be using this TS more for repetitive rips and cross cuts (with sled). ?
?
I believe that Mac has an Erika and seems to like it?? From what I have seen and heard at the mafell forums, it looks like a fantastic saw.? Any other brand or model recommendations from those that may have a smaller saw in their arsenal or should the Erika be at the top of the list? ?
?
I also plan on gifting this saw to my dad (we share the shop space) once I get a slider.? He doesn¡¯t have any interest in learning how to use the sliding saw, but since he has so graciously allowed me to move into his shop and now add an addition I want to give him a little thank you and upgrade his 40 year old ¡°job site saw.¡±
?
thanks so much,?
Anthony?
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Re: For Sale - KF700S 2013 (2014 Delivery)
Hi Guys,?
The saw sold yesterday to a really nice guy down on the Cape. ?Excited to have the great saw in a new shop where it will get lots of use. ?
Thanks to all those that helped facilitate this sale. ?
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Re: Start Capacitor Value
I find eBay to be a great source for these items with competitive prices and included shipping. Take a look:
Price:
Ariel
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Re: Tannewitz Blade Guide choices
I think WWTW sells parts too.? There might be some prices on the website for comparison.? Dave
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I decided to try the guides that came with the saw, the Tannewitz on the upper and the Carter on the lower.? I have ordered new wear blocks for the two guides and I have
new rear bearings for both.
?
?
Did you try Woodworkerstoolworks?? I have Wright guides on my 217 and Y20 and like them a lot.? They do support the blades well although I have resawed without any guides.? Dave
The parts guy at Tannewitz expressed a strong preference for the old style blade guides.? He said the steel block style support the blade in two places and they contact
the width of the blade.? The bearing supports in one place and the bearing face is narrower.
?
The machine I bought has the Tannewitz for the upper guide and a Carter CP10 for the lower guide.
?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Joe Jensen
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2021 3:28 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] Tannewitz Blade Guide choices
?
My Tannewitz came with their old style blade guides with steel wear strips.? Tannewitz now uses ball bearing type guides. I've emailed asking for pricing replacement wear strips and on new guides.? I did see one place selling replacement wear strips and the
set for upper and lower were like $700 !? To put things in perspective, the rear bearing on the original guides in 3" across. I found one new rear bearing assembly on ebay for like $70.? But I will need a second and all new wear strips.
I've been using Laguna ceramic guides for 20 years. I intend to primarily use the Tanny for resawing and plan to mount a resaw feeder to the table.
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Re: Tannewitz Blade Guide choices
I decided to try the guides that came with the saw, the Tannewitz on the upper and the Carter on the lower.? I have ordered new wear blocks for the
two guides and I have new rear bearings for both.
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2021 9:26 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz Blade Guide choices
?
Did you try Woodworkerstoolworks?? I have Wright guides on my 217 and Y20 and like them a lot.? They do support the blades well although I have resawed without any guides.? Dave
The parts guy at Tannewitz expressed a strong preference for the old style blade guides.? He said the steel block style support the blade in two places
and they contact the width of the blade.? The bearing supports in one place and the bearing face is narrower.
?
The machine I bought has the Tannewitz for the upper guide and a Carter CP10 for the lower guide.
?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Joe Jensen
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2021 3:28 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] Tannewitz Blade Guide choices
?
My Tannewitz came with their old style blade guides with steel wear strips.? Tannewitz now uses ball bearing type guides. I've emailed asking for pricing replacement wear strips and on new guides.? I did see one place selling replacement
wear strips and the set for upper and lower were like $700 !? To put things in perspective, the rear bearing on the original guides in 3" across. I found one new rear bearing assembly on ebay for like $70.? But I will need a second and all new wear strips.
I've been using Laguna ceramic guides for 20 years. I intend to primarily use the Tanny for resawing and plan to mount a resaw feeder to the table.
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David P. Best
Jason Holtz
David Luckensmeyer
Bill Belanger
imran
Joe Jensen