i would guess that Sam's estate would require some method to identify the pieces made after his death to keep the value of the originals supported.? Dave
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Meant hot iron stamp, Sam used a wood burning pen right?
On Dec 16, 2020, at 2:46 PM, Mark Kessler via groups.io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
?Personally, ?laser etch or iron is the same feels ¡°production¡± and impersonal to me. hand signing in India ink is the way to go...
On Dec 16, 2020, at 2:29 PM, Randy Child via groups.io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
Sam would layout the material and cut all the parts and assemble the chair as well as do the rough shaping before turning it over to the boys for shaping and sanding..he felt if he allowed them to do the cutting and assembling, it would not be his chair..so
I guess now since Sam is gone, of course Mike has to do everything Sam did and it looks like they laser etch the Maloof name onto the piece,? which to me is an impersonal way to sign off on it..I'd rather see the name burned in like Sam did..just feels like
a cheaper way to go, laser etching it.?
On Wednesday, December 16, 2020, 09:27:21 AM PST, David <david.hawxhurst@...> wrote:
Sam may have signed all the chairs that left his shop but I though he had a number of employees that actually did the building of the chairs. Anyways your right something is only worth what someone else is willing to pay. 20k still seems a lot to me for
a single rocker but then again I've not had the chance to sit in a real one.
It does seem that the value does diminish after the original creator/master is gone. This seems to apply to not only wood working but other areas as well. Outside of wood working I've not seen the products come anywhere near the value of the original even it
was built by the same helpers that made the original. So it would seem that to be truly authentic it needs so be signed off by the master.
|
Meant hot iron stamp, Sam used a wood burning pen right?
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On Dec 16, 2020, at 2:46 PM, Mark Kessler via groups.io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Personally, ?laser etch or iron is the same feels ¡°production¡± and impersonal to me. hand signing in India ink is the way to go... On Dec 16, 2020, at 2:29 PM, Randy Child via groups.io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
Sam would layout the material and cut all the parts and assemble the chair as well as do the rough shaping before turning it over to the boys for shaping and sanding..he felt if he allowed them to do the cutting and assembling, it would not be his chair..so I guess now since Sam is gone, of course Mike has to do everything Sam did and it looks like they laser etch the Maloof name onto the piece,? which to me is an impersonal way to sign off on it..I'd rather see the name burned in like Sam did..just feels like a cheaper way to go, laser etching it.?
On Wednesday, December 16, 2020, 09:27:21 AM PST, David <david.hawxhurst@...> wrote:
Sam may have signed all the chairs that left his shop but I though he had a number of employees that actually did the building of the chairs. Anyways your right something is only worth what someone else is willing to pay. 20k still seems a lot to me for a single rocker but then again I've not had the chance to sit in a real one.
It does seem that the value does diminish after the original creator/master is gone. This seems to apply to not only wood working but other areas as well. Outside of wood working I've not seen the products come anywhere near the value of the original even it was built by the same helpers that made the original. So it would seem that to be truly authentic it needs so be signed off by the master.
|
Personally, ?laser etch or iron is the same feels ¡°production¡± and impersonal to me. hand signing in India ink is the way to go...
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Show quoted text
On Dec 16, 2020, at 2:29 PM, Randy Child via groups.io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
Sam would layout the material and cut all the parts and assemble the chair as well as do the rough shaping before turning it over to the boys for shaping and sanding..he felt if he allowed them to do the cutting and assembling, it would not be his chair..so I guess now since Sam is gone, of course Mike has to do everything Sam did and it looks like they laser etch the Maloof name onto the piece,? which to me is an impersonal way to sign off on it..I'd rather see the name burned in like Sam did..just feels like a cheaper way to go, laser etching it.?
On Wednesday, December 16, 2020, 09:27:21 AM PST, David <david.hawxhurst@...> wrote:
Sam may have signed all the chairs that left his shop but I though he had a number of employees that actually did the building of the chairs. Anyways your right something is only worth what someone else is willing to pay. 20k still seems a lot to me for a single rocker but then again I've not had the chance to sit in a real one.
It does seem that the value does diminish after the original creator/master is gone. This seems to apply to not only wood working but other areas as well. Outside of wood working I've not seen the products come anywhere near the value of the original even it was built by the same helpers that made the original. So it would seem that to be truly authentic it needs so be signed off by the master.
|
I have the same on my K500 (2800mm) so I have place to put a leg at each end.
First of all, the legs are not a replacement for an additional bolt attachment for your slider to the base frame. You can only force the slider base up with the leg, but in no way you can force the slider base down. If that make sense.
Secondly, the leg will adjust the slider level at the other side. That is if you play with your outfeed leg as in your pictures, the infeed part of your slider will be affected. I got this information from the support and confirmed that it works this way with dial caliper and others.
There is so much you can do with those legs, I was not able to correct my slider to the level I wanted. However, if you put some heavy stuff on your slider it will avoid too much flex on it.
On my setup I use the legs to force the slider base up to the point it started to not be positive for the overall result and stopped here.
Bill
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On Dec 16, 2020, at 2:20 PM, Tony Rodoracio <trodoracio@...> wrote:
?After reading lots of material on slider adjustments, I am about to dive in. I have the cast iron top on my K700 coplaner thanks to the LTW precision level. So my question regarding the slider support leg is?should I use it as an adjustment point along with the 2 sets of bolts on the machine frame?? It came with 2 support legs but seems like there is only room for 1.? The slider is 2500mm. <saw stand 1.jpg> <saw.jpg>
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Sam would layout the material and cut all the parts and assemble the chair as well as do the rough shaping before turning it over to the boys for shaping and sanding..he felt if he allowed them to do the cutting and assembling, it would not be his chair..so I guess now since Sam is gone, of course Mike has to do everything Sam did and it looks like they laser etch the Maloof name onto the piece,? which to me is an impersonal way to sign off on it..I'd rather see the name burned in like Sam did..just feels like a cheaper way to go, laser etching it.?
On Wednesday, December 16, 2020, 09:27:21 AM PST, David <david.hawxhurst@...> wrote:
Sam may have signed all the chairs that left his shop but I though he had a number of employees that actually did the building of the chairs. Anyways your right something is only worth what someone else is willing to pay. 20k still seems a lot to me for a single rocker but then again I've not had the chance to sit in a real one.
It does seem that the value does diminish after the original creator/master is gone. This seems to apply to not only wood working but other areas as well. Outside of wood working I've not seen the products come anywhere near the value of the original even it was built by the same helpers that made the original. So it would seem that to be truly authentic it needs so be signed off by the master.
|
Re: Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
I have a similar rip fence and there is no way to push it all the way down. ?It locks with just pushing down to you fell a firm touch. ?Easy to pull up and have never had it move. ? Philip Davidson?
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On Dec 16, 2020, at 1:52 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? I seem to recall that my rip fence was tighter than my liking early on. this is 19 yrs ago so do not recall what i did. never had an issues since. i have removed the rip fence and the bar since it is only a shaper now but the fence housing is laying on the table. when i am in shop later, i will take a look. i seem to recall that the cam portion of the lever forces a plate into the round bar.
Imran On Dec 16, 2020, at 1:37 PM, Patrick Kane <pwk5017@...> wrote: ? Interesting, i really do need to take the fence off and have a look at it. It wasnt my only/primary saw until recently, and i admit my laziness never allowed for me to delve into it deeply. Now it is my only table saw and im using the rip fence much much more.?
My rip fence system is different from yours. Mine is mounted to a round bar. Looks like the 2020 KF700 has the same/similar fence.
Patrick Patrick,
I had the same issue with my CF 741 2008 model. I couldn't open the rip fence lever and almost broke the handle using my both hands. On next time , I had the same issue, I noticed that the lever is not inserted deep inside the hole and the eccentric end of the lever shaft jummed? at the edge of the P channel. It could be you had the same issue.
Alex Zoric
-------- Original message -------- Date: 16/12/2020 17:04 (GMT+01:00) Subject: [FOG] Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
This has bugged me forever, but i never asked anyone about it. Last night i used my 2005 KF700 for a bit, and the rip fence lever is absurdly stubborn to lift up on. One, i find the stubby plastic handle to be uncomfortable and too short to apply/unapply pressure. Two, once its locked, it is always a two-handed approach to undo the fence--left hand on top of the fence head, right hand yanking up on the handle--which almost always results in me smacking my right hand off the fence body when the lever finally lets loose. Ive owned 2 unifences, 2-3 biesemeyer fences, one VSCT fence, and a Martin T17 fence. Of them all, the VSCT and Martin have the best/most satisfying locking/unlocking action. The others were fine, and absolutely none were like this felder fence. Is this specific to me and something i can adjust, or is this just how the fence operates? Has anyone replaced the handle of their rip fence to something longer for greater leverage? The operation of the fence is perfectly fine, and it stays put once its locked, but the ergonomics couldnt?suck more.?
Patrick
--
Philip
davidsonukuleles.com
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After reading lots of material on slider adjustments, I am about to dive in. I have the cast iron top on my K700 coplaner thanks to the LTW precision level. So my question regarding the slider support leg is?should I use it as an adjustment point along with the 2 sets of bolts on the machine frame?? It came with 2 support legs but seems like there is only room for 1.? The slider is 2500mm.  
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Ariel,
Thanks for sharing. i only needed to do a few pieces. if i end up doing more then it makes sense to get appropriate and suitable equipment.?
My main purpose to share was to say that if you needs a simple part like a slider nut, you likely can do it yourself. if you want a pneumatic clamp, big squeeze housing is within reach of anyone who wants one. rest is all purchased parts.
Imran
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On Dec 16, 2020, at 1:21 PM, ahazi <ariel.hazi@...> wrote: ?Imran,
I found the following products to very helpful in metal working. I use them on a buffer and it is really easy and quick to deburr and polish. Too many steps and too much time in your sandpaper method in my opinion.
You can also get these abrasives for angle grinder but I prefer to use it on a buffer. Similar abrasives are also available from 3M at much higher prices.
Ariel
|
Re: Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
I seem to recall that my rip fence was tighter than my liking early on. this is 19 yrs ago so do not recall what i did. never had an issues since. i have removed the rip fence and the bar since it is only a shaper now but the fence housing is laying on the table. when i am in shop later, i will take a look. i seem to recall that the cam portion of the lever forces a plate into the round bar.
Imran
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On Dec 16, 2020, at 1:37 PM, Patrick Kane <pwk5017@...> wrote: ? Interesting, i really do need to take the fence off and have a look at it. It wasnt my only/primary saw until recently, and i admit my laziness never allowed for me to delve into it deeply. Now it is my only table saw and im using the rip fence much much more.?
My rip fence system is different from yours. Mine is mounted to a round bar. Looks like the 2020 KF700 has the same/similar fence.
Patrick Patrick,
I had the same issue with my CF 741 2008 model. I couldn't open the rip fence lever and almost broke the handle using my both hands. On next time , I had the same issue, I noticed that the lever is not inserted deep inside the hole and the eccentric end of the lever shaft jummed? at the edge of the P channel. It could be you had the same issue.
Alex Zoric
-------- Original message -------- Date: 16/12/2020 17:04 (GMT+01:00) Subject: [FOG] Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
This has bugged me forever, but i never asked anyone about it. Last night i used my 2005 KF700 for a bit, and the rip fence lever is absurdly stubborn to lift up on. One, i find the stubby plastic handle to be uncomfortable and too short to apply/unapply pressure. Two, once its locked, it is always a two-handed approach to undo the fence--left hand on top of the fence head, right hand yanking up on the handle--which almost always results in me smacking my right hand off the fence body when the lever finally lets loose. Ive owned 2 unifences, 2-3 biesemeyer fences, one VSCT fence, and a Martin T17 fence. Of them all, the VSCT and Martin have the best/most satisfying locking/unlocking action. The others were fine, and absolutely none were like this felder fence. Is this specific to me and something i can adjust, or is this just how the fence operates? Has anyone replaced the handle of their rip fence to something longer for greater leverage? The operation of the fence is perfectly fine, and it stays put once its locked, but the ergonomics couldnt?suck more.?
Patrick
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Re: Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
I used to push the lever all the way down to lock like I did with Biesemeyer fences.? Hard to get all the way down and hard to lift. Lately I¡¯ve just
pushed down less and it seems as solidly locked.? Also never hard to lift that way.? That said I too have wondered about tension and does one need to press all the way down to be secure?
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Patrick Kane
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2020 9:04 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
?
This has bugged me forever, but i never asked anyone about it. Last night i used my 2005 KF700 for a bit, and the rip fence lever is absurdly stubborn to lift up on. One, i find the stubby plastic handle to be uncomfortable and too short
to apply/unapply pressure. Two, once its locked, it is always a two-handed approach to undo the fence--left hand on top of the fence head, right hand yanking up on the handle--which almost always results in me smacking my right hand off the fence body when
the lever finally lets loose. Ive owned 2 unifences, 2-3 biesemeyer fences, one VSCT fence, and a Martin T17 fence. Of them all, the VSCT and Martin have the best/most satisfying locking/unlocking action. The others were fine, and absolutely none were like
this felder fence. Is this specific to me and something i can adjust, or is this just how the fence operates? Has anyone replaced the handle of their rip fence to something longer for greater leverage? The operation of the fence is perfectly fine, and it stays
put once its locked, but the ergonomics couldnt?suck more.?
|
Re: Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
Interesting, i really do need to take the fence off and have a look at it. It wasnt my only/primary saw until recently, and i admit my laziness never allowed for me to delve into it deeply. Now it is my only table saw and im using the rip fence much much more.?
My rip fence system is different from yours. Mine is mounted to a round bar. Looks like the 2020 KF700 has the same/similar fence.
Patrick
Patrick,
I had the same issue with my CF 741 2008 model. I couldn't open the rip fence lever and almost broke the handle using my both hands. On next time , I had the same issue, I noticed that the lever is not inserted deep inside the hole and the eccentric end of the lever shaft jummed? at the edge of the P channel. It could be you had the same issue.
Alex Zoric
-------- Original message -------- Date: 16/12/2020 17:04 (GMT+01:00) Subject: [FOG] Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
This has bugged me forever, but i never asked anyone about it. Last night i used my 2005 KF700 for a bit, and the rip fence lever is absurdly stubborn to lift up on. One, i find the stubby plastic handle to be uncomfortable and too short to apply/unapply pressure. Two, once its locked, it is always a two-handed approach to undo the fence--left hand on top of the fence head, right hand yanking up on the handle--which almost always results in me smacking my right hand off the fence body when the lever finally lets loose. Ive owned 2 unifences, 2-3 biesemeyer fences, one VSCT fence, and a Martin T17 fence. Of them all, the VSCT and Martin have the best/most satisfying locking/unlocking action. The others were fine, and absolutely none were like this felder fence. Is this specific to me and something i can adjust, or is this just how the fence operates? Has anyone replaced the handle of their rip fence to something longer for greater leverage? The operation of the fence is perfectly fine, and it stays put once its locked, but the ergonomics couldnt?suck more.?
Patrick
|
Re: Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
Patrick,
I had the same issue with my CF 741 2008 model. I couldn't open the rip fence lever and almost broke the handle using my both hands. On next time , I had the same issue, I noticed that the lever is not inserted deep inside the hole and the eccentric end of the lever shaft jummed? at the edge of the P channel. It could be you had the same issue.
Alex Zoric
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-------- Original message -------- From: Patrick Kane <pwk5017@...> Date: 16/12/2020 17:04 (GMT+01:00) Subject: [FOG] Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
This has bugged me forever, but i never asked anyone about it. Last night i used my 2005 KF700 for a bit, and the rip fence lever is absurdly stubborn to lift up on. One, i find the stubby plastic handle to be uncomfortable and too short to apply/unapply pressure. Two, once its locked, it is always a two-handed approach to undo the fence--left hand on top of the fence head, right hand yanking up on the handle--which almost always results in me smacking my right hand off the fence body when the lever finally lets loose. Ive owned 2 unifences, 2-3 biesemeyer fences, one VSCT fence, and a Martin T17 fence. Of them all, the VSCT and Martin have the best/most satisfying locking/unlocking action. The others were fine, and absolutely none were like this felder fence. Is this specific to me and something i can adjust, or is this just how the fence operates? Has anyone replaced the handle of their rip fence to something longer for greater leverage? The operation of the fence is perfectly fine, and it stays put once its locked, but the ergonomics couldnt?suck more.?
Patrick
|
Imran,
I found the following products to very helpful in metal working. I use them on a buffer and it is really easy and quick to deburr and polish. Too many steps and too much time in your sandpaper method in my opinion.
You can also get these abrasives for angle grinder but I prefer to use it on a buffer. Similar abrasives are also available from 3M at much higher prices.
Ariel
|
Re: Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
On mine I can release the lever with one hand. While is a new saw than yours I'm not sure if the changed something, but I have to imagine that there is someway to adjust the tension. Since seems to work okay I've never really look at it closely enough to notice if any adjustment was possible.
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Sam may have signed all the chairs that left his shop but I though he had a number of employees that actually did the building of the chairs. Anyways your right something is only worth what someone else is willing to pay. 20k still seems a lot to me for a single rocker but then again I've not had the chance to sit in a real one.
It does seem that the value does diminish after the original creator/master is gone. This seems to apply to not only wood working but other areas as well. Outside of wood working I've not seen the products come anywhere near the value of the original even it was built by the same helpers that made the original. So it would seem that to be truly authentic it needs so be signed off by the master.
|
|
|
Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
This has bugged me forever, but i never asked anyone about it. Last night i used my 2005 KF700 for a bit, and the rip fence lever is absurdly stubborn to lift up on. One, i find the stubby plastic handle to be uncomfortable and too short to apply/unapply pressure. Two, once its locked, it is always a two-handed approach to undo the fence--left hand on top of the fence head, right hand yanking up on the handle--which almost always results in me smacking my right hand off the fence body when the lever finally lets loose. Ive owned 2 unifences, 2-3 biesemeyer fences, one VSCT fence, and a Martin T17 fence. Of them all, the VSCT and Martin have the best/most satisfying locking/unlocking action. The others were fine, and absolutely none were like this felder fence. Is this specific to me and something i can adjust, or is this just how the fence operates? Has anyone replaced the handle of their rip fence to something longer for greater leverage? The operation of the fence is perfectly fine, and it stays put once its locked, but the ergonomics couldnt?suck more.?
Patrick
|
Re: Fine Adjustment for Rip Fence on Hammer B3
I've seen posts related to using a Wixey on a K3, but possibly not in this forum.? Do you read Sawmill Creek at all?? There's definitely some over there, including from Derek Cohen (if you know who that is).? I swear someone recently even did one where the stripe was installed along the front vertical surface of the K3's measuring tape, eliminating the need to use mounting brackets.
I have a Wixey and at one point had it hooked up to my old contractor's saw.? Its accuracy dropped after about 12-15", but I couldn't tell if that was due to maybe my the stripe being installed at a slight angle.? I've debated trying to add it to my K3, but didn't want to bother taking the time to attach the stripe, so it just sits on a shelf somewhere.
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Re: Phase Converter Wanted
I have an American ADX10 with auto start in my home basement assembly shop . Quite, ?reliable and reasonable. Ally is my contact in wi Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Dec 16, 2020, at 9:47 AM, Jonathan Smith <jonathan.smith@...> wrote:
?Mark,?
Your comment made me laugh.? Sure, the discussion here has been thorough but you should see the Hardinge sites! It is a trickier application because of a 2 speed motor and multiple other motors.???VFD's don't like downstream switching or multiple unbalanced loads.? A single source converter looks to be the most practical except for cost. Phase Perfect quoted about $3000 for a 7.5-hp.? The PP rep also said they were testing a new 5-hp which should be available end of January and sell for about $2000.? ? A 5-hp American Rotary with some extra filters is about $1000.? An industrial Yaskawa or AB 2-hp VFD is about $300 of which I would need at least 2 and a clever work around for the 2-speed motor.? All put out acceptable power.? The motor in this machine is specialized and finely balanced on high spec bearings so need to be careful.? It's not so much the cost but more the proportion of cost of the converter to machine. If I had multiple 3-phase machines the decision would be easier.
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imran
Joe Jensen
David
As most here know, I am a big Sam Maloof fan.? And most of you know that Sam passed away back in 2009.? At the time of his death, his iconic chairs were selling for $38,000 for the tiger maple rockers.? I do not know what they sell for now, but I heard they are around the $20,000 area now depending on what wood species they are made in.
I know Mike Johnson along with his son Stephen are continuing the business?and have purchased the Maloof woodworking part of the business, with Mike's wife Joanne running the office part, so it's all be kept within the Johnson family now.
It's obvious that Mike cannot command the same prices that Sam was able to get for his pieces.? My question is, on the new pieces that are made solely by Mike and His son, can they? ever increase in value over time, or will the only be worth what they are sold for since Mike does not have Sam's name or fame.? Basically the new pieces will only be worth as much as they are sold for and that's as far as they go, even way down the road since they do not have the signature that Sam added to his pieces?
?
I've often wondered if the value of the newly created pieces made by their helpers diminishes after the original master passes away or can they also increase in value over time?
food for thought