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Re: Milling tongue and groove panelling plus using power feeder on jointer
I have made small runs of t&g on a table saw.? It takes several quick set-ups. I made about 2000' of cope and bead for a 16' cedar strip boat.? It only took 3 set-ups but they were elaborate so as to reduce run time and handling and increase accuracy.? It's a time balance calculation.
I recommend those foam faced paddles for pushing wood thru the jointer.? You hands stay close to the wood so you can feel what is going on and if there is a slip, your pinkies are protected.???That tingle you get on the back of your scalp as your hands travel fractions of an inch over the spinning cutter is a good thing.? Embrace the scariness.? Don't get used to it. For molder cutters you might consider the adjustable cutter set from Felder or Rangate.?? They will take a bit more set-up than a dedicated set but can be used for other grooving or rebate operations.? I have a 200mm set and they leave a nice finish.?? I suppose a power feeder might be useful running material across a molder or pressure shoes, or even better, good old fashioned, home made, dedicated purpose feather boards work really well.? They are fussy to set pressure with and clamps poke out everywhere but are consistently accurate, guard your pinkies and material does not move unless you push it.? All that said, I have a never-used power feeder for sale.? (Be advised, some people on this forum will disagree vehemently with my opinion that power feeders are optional.? But so it goes.) |
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Re: Excellent Free Resource
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi martin, I see you mentioned Jarrah in your post, I love Jarrah-little bit perochical here as this timber is where I am from and I love it. I have posted a couple of photos of a tool box I made with 3 different types of Jarrah- quilted/curly, spotted and straight sawn. Also from this area, South Western Australia is coastal/swamp she oak. I combine this with rose she oak from Queensland which makes a great combination.
? Sent from for Windows 10 ? |
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Re: Excellent Free Resource
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýsounds like a place i would like to visit. Been in Madison twice 1982 and 2019, guess i can make an early return. imran On Nov 28, 2020, at 8:56 AM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
?Forest products lab is a few miles down the road I live on . Fun place they give tours in usual times. They have 100,000 samples of different species from around the world for identification. In short bring your samples in , figure specific gravity. Important ! Can be just sq inch, find something similar than split off little sliver and compare with microscope.? mahogany or jara are good examples of broad variation weight and coloring and texture. They also do lots of testing and development of major stuff Used today in building and investigate work . Open to the public students from around the world come to study there at the department of agriculture . This might be a broad generalization maybe all funding ?has been squashed as it is science . ? Maybe they study golf know. Mac,,,, martin/campshure/co/llc Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 28, 2020, at 7:08 AM, Colin surname via groups.io <colt1167@...> wrote:
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Re: Felder slotting cutter
@jonathan, it's fir-tree. The guys who mounted the fence for us this summer told me that these poles are between 80-100 years old. They grow really slow in the shade of larger fir-tree.
@Mark, do you mean the aluminum extrusions? I took what I had at hand. The large profile at the back is a 45x90 mm Bosch Rexroth profile. I think you have something called 8020 in the states. It seems to be called called 8020 regardless of the actual dimensions. I don't know what the numbers stand for. The plates at the bottom are cut-offs from the bed of my CNC router. I cut it off and built a recessed vise for holding small pieces. I have seen similar profiles at Bangood. I'm sure they are easily sourced from a lot of places. And.. if the vise part cought interest, I'll attach an image of this project. |
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Re: Milling tongue and groove panelling plus using power feeder on jointer
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýNot a big deal , should be a fun project .The feeder will be great for profiling on the shaper.? On the jointer for thisw sort of work fine , for fine work ,,,door stile ?and rail , furniture parts a waste of time.? Trim ends ,Straight edge first , than rip , face on jointer if you must and thickness , than profile.? WP 4 is traditional , I made up my own set from random cutters here is a few picks? Wall in basement shower and detail Mac,,, martin/campshure/co/llc Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 27, 2020, at 11:53 PM, dennisnmnyamamoto via groups.io <dennisnmnyamamoto@...> wrote:
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Re: Milling tongue and groove panelling plus using power feeder on jointer
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý?Hi Murray, I have made flooring on shaper using inexpensive industrial tongue and groove cutters from grizzly. these are 5 wing and 4¡± in diameter and worked great. IIRC. i processed about 1200 lineal feet. the drawback of this cutter set (not sure how others are) is that i cannot apply much of a finish to the T&G part and still assemble it. the joint is meant to be unfinished for assembly. you can get more control of T&G joint fit and depth by using rebate and grooving cutters. you can use one rebate cutter and make two passes or you can use two and get the tongue made in one pass. i have made bunch of shiplap by this method up to 12¡¯ long boards. granted it is not T&G but principal is same. by this time i had acquired the aigner pressure modules and they help keep the stock next to the shaper fence. i have also done complex cope and stick this way on door parts. the stiles got multiple passes with multiple grooving cutters. power feeder was used in all cases above. the only issue i am aware of, even on perfectly straight stock, is that sometimes the end of the board gets kicked out - moves away from cutter. this has happened with pressure module on infeed and outfeed of shaper fence. the only way to avoid this, i think, is to have outboard fence. i have not tried this yet. one important feature of T&G cutters is that they mill the complete profile. i set the outfeed fence proud to account for removed material. this is typically not done with rebate cutters, where only shoulders are milled on the tongue and groove on mating part. it goes without saying that for this type of processing preparation of stock is key. minor aberrations can be sanded away, if that is an option. there are a bunch of posts here on use of power feeder on jointers. i use it all the times on stock that is not twisted and is reasonably flat with excellent results. i have minor OCD tendencies. if it is important, each board gets put on the slider and i look for gaps along the entire length on both sides and ensure each corner is touching the table w/o gap before jointing is considered complete. somtimes i recheck both faces after thickness planning. sometimes i do this when it really does not matter just to marvel at the capability of the machine. i find it incredible that a 12¡¯ long board 12¡± wide can be made that flat. BTW, some wood will move and that is important to keep in mind otherwise you will end up with stock for toothpicks. on a relatively flat board i place board bow down and setup for 2-3mm cut on jointer. the power feeder is set about 5mm lower so only about 2-3mm below final thickness. the leading wheel is about 2¡± past the cutter. once the board is picked up by feeder it has been flattened and the feeder is no longer pushing the board down taking the flex out of it. i have processed 1x material this way bunch of times. i pick my material very carefully though. if you are not getting good results in general, i would suggest watching some utube videos in jointing. i had a hard time getting the hang of it and it did help me. hope this helps. imran On Nov 28, 2020, at 12:16 AM, murrayau1 <murraywp@...> wrote:
?Hi all I'm considering milling up some tongue and groove finger jointed panelling out of a pile of suitable stock material that I already have. This would involve using the jointer to straighten and square the timber? followed by thicknessing, then getting some sort of tongue and groove cutter either shaper cutter or router cutter. I have a CF 741 with both the router and shaper spindles.??I have to mill? about 300 feet of 4 inch wide planks.? I've never done a job like this before and in particular I haven't used a tongue and groove cutter head before and am a bit concerned that I might be underestimating the difficulty and amount of work. Has anybody done this sort of thing? Also I'm considering buying power feeder mainly for use on the jointer (planer). I don't do commercial work so productivity is not the issue, but of all the woodworking tools I use I find the jointer by far the scariest. So I'm hoping the power feeder might make this a bit easier and safer especially if I decide to mill all the T&G panelling. Is the power feeder suitable for use on the jointer? I find that using the jointer by hand is a bit of an art, you just can't feed it through anyhow unexpect a good result, so I'm uncertain that the power feeder will ?work properly with the jointer. Any advice on the above would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance Murray |
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Re: Excellent Free Resource
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýthat is funny. like the mint one best. just to be sure, are you saying that i bought ?. in that case i should seek solace that it is only $13 worth. i hope murray is not playing mr. butterslip with me ? imran On Nov 28, 2020, at 7:33 AM, Colin surname via groups.io <colt1167@...> wrote:
? Hi Imran, excellent that you found great book but it looked like I would have to pay a large postage to Australia so I thought about a very funny grab from a British comedy show-8 out of 10 cats does countdown. Joe lycett does some very funny observations from the internet. ? Colin ? Sent from for Windows 10 ? |
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Re: Excellent Free Resource
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýhi Murray, i found a used copy and ordered it. here are couple of links: Encyclopedia of Furniture Making https://www.amazon.com/dp/0806971428/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_RFJWFbQETWTM2 imran? On Nov 28, 2020, at 12:02 AM, murrayau1 <murraywp@...> wrote:
? Hi Imran Thanks for sharing that link the book looks really useful. One of my go to books for problem-solving is the Encyclopaedia of Furniture Making by Ernest Joyce, updated by Alan Peters. There is a chapter on carcass building that refers to the Design Manual for Cabinet Furniture published by Furniture Development Council. I suspect that this book was published a very long time ago and I¡¯m not even sure that the so-called Furniture Council still exists. But it sounds like a really useful guide to the structural design of cabinets for stiffness and longevity. I tried to track it down but can¡¯t find a trace of it has anybody heard of this book? Murray |
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Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI keep a tight tolerance on the pressure bar on my Powermatic planer. ?I try to have the pressure bar just .001¡± higher than the cutters.? This really helps that small 12¡± PM100 with snipe but if the cutters get at all dull it has trouble feeding.? I have a Byrd head in mine and the carbide cutters when many years before the first rotation.? But in the past 6 months I¡¯ve run a bunch of reclaimed oak beams through the jointer, planer, and bandsaw and all three are dull.? I¡¯ve rotated the cutters on the jointer and I¡¯ve send the bandsaw blade off to be resharpened.? ? Bottom line, in my experience what you are running makes a huge difference. ? From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of david.r.milson@...
Sent: Thursday, November 26, 2020 1:20 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [FOG] ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock #spiralcutterhead ? Thanks Patrick |
Jonathan Smith
imran
Joe Jensen