Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
Thanks Patrick
Initially, I could not imagine I'd put through anywhere near 5000 board feet.? Then, I wondered what this means!? If I prepare a face and edge on a 10' board across the jointer say passing it 4 times over the cutter head, is this 10 board feet or 40 board feet?? Then lifting the lid and doing the parallel faces in the thicknesser could make it a total of 60+ board feet (for the 10' board)?? If it is 40 or 60 then 5000 board does not seem unreasonable for the machine and I would have easily done 5000' in 12 months.?
Also, some timber recently was extremely dusty (which I assue was a lot of dirt build up, which I had brushed as best I could but can't have been good for the edge of the carbide.?
Both the infeed and outfeed tables appeared to?be parallel (co-planar) when checked with a level longer than the 2 tables (used as a straight edge) a week ago when I became aware of the problem.? After reading your response this afternoon I got my (shorter) straight edge out to double check, but got interrupted so will get back to this hopefully tomorrow.??
Cheers, David
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Re: Tenoning Plate Nut Screws
I uploaded the Felder drawing to files/manuals and drawings/Felder tenoning plate.pdf
? Dennis
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Re: Tenoning Plate Nut Screws
Details here Imran: ?
This is identical to the Felder supplied screw: ?
I added an additional slot to my tenoning plate which you can see in some of the photos here: ??
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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can someone share the slider nut screw details. i got the plate but it did not come with any nut or screws. not sure if it is a flange head or a washer is used with a different type. appreciate the feedback. here is the pic of the nut from survival guide but would like to see the other side.
imran
<image0.jpeg>
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Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
I think I ground the knives in the Oliver ITCH head about 3 years ago. That's in a shop with 4 full time furniture makers. They still don't really need it, which is great since the grinding is a serious chore. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
I put a spiral head from Byrd on my JP.? I got it from Felder,?
Carl was? looking to let it go cheap? because they were no longer?
installing them? having developed their own? So I think I got it
for Felder's price.? This was a while ago? more than a few years.?
I have only turned a couple of the inserts because they got
chipped.
And I really don't think I see much difference from brand new.?
But If I start doing? highly figured wood I may have to rotate 'em
all.?
So unless you see a problem,? why fix something that ain't broke.
There Was a fellow on the forum? who is in Hawaii.? He told me
back then about a less expensive option for the inserts than
buying the inserts for the Byrd head from Felder. But I've lost
that? information
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Hi, having used my Dual51for about 12 months just recently, I
noticed the carbide inserts need attention.
The closest half of the cutter block has worn faster than the back
half (as I find it difficult to reach all the way back for
jointing boards).
The inserts still do a very reasonable job cutting, but they have
worn down.? I can just feel the end of the board hitting the
leading edge of the outfeed table so I know it needs attention.
And... It doesn't happen when I use the back half of the cutter
block
My assumption for best practice would be to rotate all the inserts
at once.? I'm wondering if swapping the front half with the back
half (and keep using the same edge) to prolong their life might be
a good idea?
Cheers
David
Cambridge, New Zealand
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Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
thanks Mac. good to know.
imran
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On Nov 25, 2020, at 11:10 PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote: ? Imran? Always a good idea to move from right to left and vice versa down knives wear the same. Also always trim the material ends before ?planning . ?Don’t pile wood on floors that were the dirt is.? On the combo machines with temple bolts all temple should sit all at ounce and wen tighten should not move. You can see this if you put an indicator on the cutter head resting on the table on front edge. Mac,,, Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 25, 2020, at 8:11 PM, Shawn Kammerer via groups.io <shawnkammerer@...> wrote:
?
Hi David, I've had my 941 running nonstop for about 2 1/2 years and have put a lot of material through it. I think it's time to turn the cutters because there are a few nicks here and there, but they still leave a nice finish otherwise, no tear out. I think your issue is actually with your outfeed table, not your cutters. Your mechanism is a little different than mine, but the basic arrangement is the same, with bump stops for table height adjustment and a latch to pull the table into the stops. In my case, I had an issue where the table wasn't quite reaching the stops because the latch was set a little too high (my machine has cam levers, and the one for the outfeed table would spin without tightening), so I adjusted the latch down a little. But you might just need to tweak your bump stop to let the table sit down a little more. This issue would affect the side closest to the operator much more than the far side, because the pivot point is so close to the other side. Hope that makes sense! -Shawn
On Wednesday, November 25, 2020, 02:10:34 PM PST, david.r.milson@... <david.r.milson@...> wrote:
Hi, having used my Dual51for about 12 months just recently, I noticed the carbide inserts need attention.
The closest half of the cutter block has worn faster than the back half (as I find it difficult to reach all the way back for jointing boards).
The inserts still do a very reasonable job cutting, but they have worn down.? I can just feel the end of the board hitting the leading edge of the outfeed table so I know it needs attention. And... It doesn't happen when I use the back half of the cutter block
My assumption for best practice would be to rotate all the inserts at once.? I'm wondering if swapping the front half with the back half (and keep using the same edge) to prolong their life might be a good idea?
Cheers
David
Cambridge, New Zealand
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Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
Imran? Always a good idea to move from right to left and vice versa down knives wear the same. Also always trim the material ends before ?planning . ?Don’t pile wood on floors that were the dirt is.? On the combo machines with temple bolts all temple should sit all at ounce and wen tighten should not move. You can see this if you put an indicator on the cutter head resting on the table on front edge. Mac,,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Nov 25, 2020, at 8:11 PM, Shawn Kammerer via groups.io <shawnkammerer@...> wrote:
?
Hi David, I've had my 941 running nonstop for about 2 1/2 years and have put a lot of material through it. I think it's time to turn the cutters because there are a few nicks here and there, but they still leave a nice finish otherwise, no tear out. I think your issue is actually with your outfeed table, not your cutters. Your mechanism is a little different than mine, but the basic arrangement is the same, with bump stops for table height adjustment and a latch to pull the table into the stops. In my case, I had an issue where the table wasn't quite reaching the stops because the latch was set a little too high (my machine has cam levers, and the one for the outfeed table would spin without tightening), so I adjusted the latch down a little. But you might just need to tweak your bump stop to let the table sit down a little more. This issue would affect the side closest to the operator much more than the far side, because the pivot point is so close to the other side. Hope that makes sense! -Shawn
On Wednesday, November 25, 2020, 02:10:34 PM PST, david.r.milson@... <david.r.milson@...> wrote:
Hi, having used my Dual51for about 12 months just recently, I noticed the carbide inserts need attention.
The closest half of the cutter block has worn faster than the back half (as I find it difficult to reach all the way back for jointing boards).
The inserts still do a very reasonable job cutting, but they have worn down.? I can just feel the end of the board hitting the leading edge of the outfeed table so I know it needs attention. And... It doesn't happen when I use the back half of the cutter block
My assumption for best practice would be to rotate all the inserts at once.? I'm wondering if swapping the front half with the back half (and keep using the same edge) to prolong their life might be a good idea?
Cheers
David
Cambridge, New Zealand
|
Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
Hi David, I've had my 941 running nonstop for about 2 1/2 years and have put a lot of material through it. I think it's time to turn the cutters because there are a few nicks here and there, but they still leave a nice finish otherwise, no tear out. I think your issue is actually with your outfeed table, not your cutters. Your mechanism is a little different than mine, but the basic arrangement is the same, with bump stops for table height adjustment and a latch to pull the table into the stops. In my case, I had an issue where the table wasn't quite reaching the stops because the latch was set a little too high (my machine has cam levers, and the one for the outfeed table would spin without tightening), so I adjusted the latch down a little. But you might just need to tweak your bump stop to let the table sit down a little more. This issue would affect the side closest to the operator much more than the far side, because the pivot point is so close to the other side. Hope that makes sense! -Shawn
On Wednesday, November 25, 2020, 02:10:34 PM PST, david.r.milson@... <david.r.milson@...> wrote:
Hi, having used my Dual51for about 12 months just recently, I noticed the carbide inserts need attention.
The closest half of the cutter block has worn faster than the back half (as I find it difficult to reach all the way back for jointing boards).
The inserts still do a very reasonable job cutting, but they have worn down.? I can just feel the end of the board hitting the leading edge of the outfeed table so I know it needs attention. And... It doesn't happen when I use the back half of the cutter block
My assumption for best practice would be to rotate all the inserts at once.? I'm wondering if swapping the front half with the back half (and keep using the same edge) to prolong their life might be a good idea?
Cheers
David
Cambridge, New Zealand
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Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
Hey David,
I don’t own a dual51, but I do have carbide insert heads. In the last 12 months, about how many board feet have you put through the machine? Unless you processed 5,000ish board feet, I don’t think the inserts should be dull. A J/P cutterhead does double duty, but I’ve found the carbide heads can eat a ton of lumber. Like you, I rotated mine after about a year, and that was not the best decision. I noticed zero difference in the board’s surface finish before and after rotating.?
Sounds like your outfeed table is out of parallel with the cutterhead. If I had to guess.?
Patrick
On Wed, Nov 25, 2020 at 5:34 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: My dual51 has tersa head but for your mentioned concern, I have been jointing on front (near operator) of cutterhead and try to plane most often on the back. This may actually wear the feeding mechanism unevenly so I am not sure if I should continue this practice. ? Imran ? ? Hi, having used my Dual51for about 12 months just recently, I noticed the carbide inserts need attention.
The closest half of the cutter block has worn faster than the back half (as I find it difficult to reach all the way back for jointing boards).
The inserts still do a very reasonable job cutting, but they have worn down.? I can just feel the end of the board hitting the leading edge of the outfeed table so I know it needs attention. And... It doesn't happen when I use the back half of the cutter block
My assumption for best practice would be to rotate all the inserts at once.? I'm wondering if swapping the front half with the back half (and keep using the same edge) to prolong their life might be a good idea?
Cheers
David
Cambridge, New Zealand
|
Tenoning Plate Nut Screws
can someone share the slider nut screw details. i got the plate but it did not come with any nut or screws. not sure if it is a flange head or a washer is used with a different type. appreciate the feedback. here is the pic of the nut from survival guide but would like to see the other side.
imran
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Tom,
thanks for taking the time to share the details. i find this very interesting but just to be sure you have an OSB sub floor (albeit multiple layers). i assume the membrane is next but not sure if it is just floating as a barrier or fixed somehow. then you have wood veneer glued and nailed to OSB. is this another layer of OSB or is this subfloor OSB? how thick are the veneers?
i made traditional wood flooring for a friend that was variable width. it came out really nice. i agree that std wood flooring can be boring. i do like the wide plank look of old days with plugged screws.
imran
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On Nov 25, 2020, at 7:10 PM, tomruth@... wrote: ?? imran, ? Yeah it's not really cost effective, but I wanted to try it and see what happened.? If I do it again I would just resaw 4 or 5 qtr? hardwood once and screw and plug it down. I did it because nobody on woodweb would say it was possible. It was a fun test. The new wood flooring glues are amazing.? I built up an osb sub floor with two and sometimes 3 sheets of 1/2" osb glued and nailed with joints staggered. I used a membrane designed to put wood flooring over concrete under the osb. The veneers were then glued with Bostik glue and top nailed with pin nails right onto the osb. The whole floor was floating. You really don't need T$G flooring, as old time floors were just boards nailed down anyway.? I didn't care if there were any gaps, but so far it's held tight and no gaps. I made sure the 10 ft lengths were straight. I hate the look of cheap wood floors with narrow, short boards. I wanted something different.
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Re: AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
I was looking at? their? large disk sander.
So I wrote them a? letter inquiring into? the flatness of the
disk? the? total indicator run out and the? class of bearings in
the thing.
THEY SENT ME A HAT.
I didn't buy their machine
On 11/24/20 11:50 PM, PK wrote:
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Baileigh Black Friday sale...
Same 18" machine is (based on the website) is $9850. That is a lot
of machine for the $. Basically digidrive and 3000 pounds.
Would be great if you could see on in person running...
Happy to wait for my AD941, but damn...
PK
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? imran, ? Yeah it's not really cost effective, but I wanted to try it and see what happened.? If I do it again I would just resaw 4 or 5 qtr? hardwood once and screw and plug it down. I did it because nobody on woodweb would say it was possible. It was a fun test. The new wood flooring glues are amazing.? I built up an osb sub floor with two and sometimes 3 sheets of 1/2" osb glued and nailed with joints staggered. I used a membrane designed to put wood flooring over concrete under the osb. The veneers were then glued with Bostik glue and top nailed with pin nails right onto the osb. The whole floor was floating. You really don't need T$G flooring, as old time floors were just boards nailed down anyway.? I didn't care if there were any gaps, but so far it's held tight and no gaps. I made sure the 10 ft lengths were straight. I hate the look of cheap wood floors with narrow, short boards. I wanted something different.
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Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
My dual51 has tersa head but for your mentioned concern, I have been jointing on front (near operator) of cutterhead and try to plane most often on the back. This may actually wear the feeding mechanism unevenly so I am not sure if I should continue this practice. ? Imran ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of david.r.milson@... Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2020 5:11 PM To: [email protected]Subject: [FOG] ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock #spiralcutterhead ? Hi, having used my Dual51for about 12 months just recently, I noticed the carbide inserts need attention.
The closest half of the cutter block has worn faster than the back half (as I find it difficult to reach all the way back for jointing boards).
The inserts still do a very reasonable job cutting, but they have worn down.? I can just feel the end of the board hitting the leading edge of the outfeed table so I know it needs attention. And... It doesn't happen when I use the back half of the cutter block
My assumption for best practice would be to rotate all the inserts at once.? I'm wondering if swapping the front half with the back half (and keep using the same edge) to prolong their life might be a good idea?
Cheers
David
Cambridge, New Zealand
|
Hi, having used my Dual51for about 12 months just recently, I noticed the carbide inserts need attention.
The closest half of the cutter block has worn faster than the back half (as I find it difficult to reach all the way back for jointing boards).
The inserts still do a very reasonable job cutting, but they have worn down.? I can just feel the end of the board hitting the leading edge of the outfeed table so I know it needs attention. And... It doesn't happen when I use the back half of the cutter block
My assumption for best practice would be to rotate all the inserts at once.? I'm wondering if swapping the front half with the back half (and keep using the same edge) to prolong their life might be a good idea?
Cheers
David
Cambridge, New Zealand
|
Re: AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
Paul,
not sure how much more is AD941 but i would be super concerned about service with Baileigh. this is just an perception i have no experience with Baileigh. plus you got FOG for extra assurance ?
Imran
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On Nov 25, 2020, at 10:46 AM, PK <paul.kellymjc@...> wrote: ?Imran,
I am sure they are not comparable from a quality perspective, that is why I am patiently waiting for my AD941!
Paul
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Re: AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
Imran,
I am sure they are not comparable from a quality perspective, that is why I am patiently waiting for my AD941!
Paul
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Re: AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
thanks Paul. perhaps a diff build level between 2 machines.
imran
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On Nov 25, 2020, at 12:11 AM, PK <paul.kellymjc@...> wrote: ? <Screenshot 2020-11-24 210904.png> 15% off $11546.? Must look different on the PC vs mobile...
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Re: AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
 15% off $11546.? Must look different on the PC vs mobile...
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Re: AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
PK,
this is what i see, where do you see $9850 price? do note that for some reason they list a 12” J/P first followed by 18” model.
imran
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On Nov 24, 2020, at 11:50 PM, PK <paul.kellymjc@...> wrote: ?Baileigh Black Friday sale...
Same 18" machine is (based on the website) is $9850. That is a lot of machine for the $. Basically digidrive and 3000 pounds.
Would be great if you could see on in person running...
Happy to wait for my AD941, but damn...
PK
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David P. Best
Jason Holtz
imran
PK