Re: Hammer C3-31 cuts out issue
#hammer
Sounds a lot like overcurrent protection/thermal cutout since there's clearly a cool down period and it cuts out with load, I don't know where this resides on the 2002 model. I have a 2005 B3 and it's part of the isolator switch on the back. Perhaps overcurrent is done within the electrical box on the older models. Look for something near the contactors within the electrical box written "FLA" (full load amps) or similar.
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David you are correct and so is Jeff when he initially asked if belt should go in between the two rollers, looks as if smaller roller/tensioner is attached to link arm that engages the feed by pressing drive belt between tensioner roller and feed roller. Otherwise how else would there be ?power at the feed rollers. Not sure why they have same type of adjustment grub screw as my CF741 if not for adjustment of some kind. Jeff will be interesting to see if there are elongated holes behind face plate. On my CF741 there is 1 belt to cutter head and feed is obtained by the engagement of urethane covered wheel directly onto motor shaft, there is 2, one either side to get hi and low speed. Looking at your machine Jeff does it have just the one speed or is the motor a variable speed?. ? ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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Jeff, I can¡¯t be sure, but looking at your most recent photo, it appears to me that the belt tensioning may be done via the idler wheel with spring tension, rather than a tensioning system involving the motor mount. ??By idler wheel, what I¡¯m talking about is circled in green from your original photo as shown below. ? Now that you¡¯ve loosened the motor mount, it does not appear to me to have the usual slot-style bolt holes in the chassis normally associated with belt tensioning via motor mount movement. ?
I can¡¯t imagine what that idler mechanism tensions if it isn¡¯t the drive belt you¡¯re trying to replace. ? Depending on which direction the spring is designed to tension the belt, the idler wheel should be either pressing to the right against the outside of the belt, or it¡¯s pulling to the left on the inside of the belt. ? Based on your original photo, I can¡¯t see any other function for that idler wheel other than to tension the belt.
I speak/read enough French to order a fine meal and stay out of jail, but couldn¡¯t translate the text in your original post, so I double checked it with Google Translate using my iPhone. ? This is what I got, but it isn¡¯t any more helpful than the english version already printed in the manual.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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I took off the bolts. Here is what it looks like. It's not clear to me what to do next. I do appreciate the help. As you might guess, I've both never done this and am concerned about breaking something in the process.?
<20201105_222844.jpg>
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Jeff pry off retainer plate in photo, now that nuts have been removed, this will show you if you have any more travel upwards on what should be elongated holes on machine body. Happy to help after the amount of help and info I have received off this forum. Colin ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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I took off the bolts. Here is what it looks like. It's not clear to me what to do next. I do appreciate the help. As you might guess, I've both never done this and am concerned about breaking something in the process.? 
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Re: How to lift Tannewitz Bandsaw off pallet
Joe,
I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned it, but owwm.org, or old woodworking machines, has information on older vintage machines.? Doing a search on "tannewitz ph 30" found 109 matches.
? ?Dennis
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Jeff, I should of said in previous post that when you take the 4 retaining bolts out that should allow you to remove retaining flange on pulley side, this will allow you to see what is stopping you from being able to raise elect motor. ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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Jeff good to hear it is loose, the 4 retainer bolts will be in elongated holes in machine body to allow movement of motor up & down without taking out of retaining bolts as then the motor would hang loose supported by shaft and pulley (not ideal). I would put some blocking under motor and then take out retaining bolts and then see if you can move motor up any more than the couple of millimetres you are getting now. ? ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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Electrical wires from above for KF 700
#wiring
Does anyone have success with running the power line to a Felder KF700 from above and attaching it to the vertical support of the overarm saw guard?
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I jiggled the motor from the rear and it moves a bit.? I tried levering from the front again like in the photo from the doc David sent and the motor moves up maybe 1mm or 2.? It sort of makes sense to be that it can't move since the retaining bolts are passing through the frame and it seems like unless they bend the motor won't move much.?
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Jeff, with 4 elect motor mounting retaining bolts just loosened, I would try to loosen elect motor flange mounting that is clamped with the 4 retaining bolts to planer/thicknesser body by gently using leverage at back of elect motor to try and break the connection between Motor flange and machine body, once motor is loose move leverage to front of elect motor-directly under where grub screw is at base of motor flange to lift motor to get your belt on. Colin ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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Thanks David, Hoping that I never have to do this, I nonetheless saved the doc. the 160Hz resonant tone from the plucked belt is much more useful than trying to figure out how to measure 330 - 380Nm tension in the belt! And I did not know about that app, that alone is really going to be fun to use (and annoying to my wife ;-) Cheers Eric
Thanks David for the document and the cocktail ice tip. It had given me more ideas. Thanks also to Colin for the tips.?
I sprayed WD40 on the motor bolts and bought a 13mm extension socket and got them loose. I also completely backed out the grub screw. I tried to use a long board to wedge the motor up but I couldn't get it to budge. Any ideas what to do to get the motor to move up???
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Thanks David for the document and the cocktail ice tip. It had given me more ideas. Thanks also to Colin for the tips.?
I sprayed WD40 on the motor bolts and bought a 13mm extension socket and got them loose. I also completely backed out the grub screw. I tried to use a long board to wedge the motor up but I couldn't get it to budge. Any ideas what to do to get the motor to move up???
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Re: Felder g330 edgebander
Chaser board makes so much sense.thanks
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On Nov 4, 2020, at 2:09 PM, Ramon Valdez <valdezfinefurniture@...> wrote:
?We use to handle that two different ways.
A) leave your board tall...cut only to width of drawer fronts. Band two sides...then slice that into drawers fronts. Edge top and bottom of each.
Or 2)
We would run a ¡°chaser¡± piece held tight to the narrow drawer front but held back from the edge banding and cutters. The chaser helps hold the narrow drawer fronts from shifting.
Hope that makes sense, Ramon
Ramon Valdez
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Re: Cut Wood with Non-Ferrous Blade?
Thanks to all who contributed their knowledge.? We cut the wood today and it went great - - very smooth, no burning, no kickbacks. With the Hain measuring system and roller beds, it was very easy and fast to get the same lengths time after time - - very important when you're cutting 42 pieces that need to match.
I'll try to attach a photo of what we're building - - this is the prototype for 15 movable plexiglass barriers to be used in offices.?
Thanks again to all,? Fred
On Thu, Nov 5, 2020 at 4:23 AM, David Sabo via groups.io <sabo_dave@...> wrote: I have a couple of 10¡± N.F. blades and all have 60 teeth or more.
It¡¯s the high tooth count more than the grind or rake that make them awful at ripping.
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Re: Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
Weirdly out of the 900 options they did not have the right one.? I need 1 ?¡± with ?¡± pin.? Had to order an adjustable one
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression
Sent: Thursday, November 5, 2020 4:26 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
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Mc Master Carr, measure diameter and dia of hole. I buy one for every nut I come across, Dot worry u will need again?
Designing and building for 50 years
?
Got advice from someone who recently rebuilt one.? That is a threaded bushing.? Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench?? I¡¯ve attached pics from
the other fellow and a pick of the assembly from my saw.? The locking nut is on one end and then threaded bushing is on the other.? This pic labeled ¡°housing¡± shows the whole assembly.
?
Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench?
?
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?
Joe?
First nut seems like a dumb design but ya a looking method. ?
Might be better off with double hook wrench ?nut?
Second one usa bugged up nut hole for a spaner wrench You should be able to see threads and measure the shaft more than likely remove and push through to other end.
I find that cleaning off everything first make working. On job much easier.
I have a dip tank with 20 gallons of ZEP purple mad out of plastic from with garbage can lid. ZEP foam oven cleaner is also very handy stuff if you can use out side.
Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
On Nov 5, 2020, at 9:25 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?The first item, the set screw in the face, yes, that is a locknut. The second part¡ hard to say, those might be holes for a spanner wrench and what does the opposite end look like? The end on the other side of the bracket? There might
be a nut there, and the spanner holes are to hold the shaft while the nut is tightened. If that piece with the spanner holes is a nut, you should be able to see a line indicating two pieces on the shaft side, so clean the grease off and look closely at that
joint.
?
?
Need some help from my FOG friends.? The first two pics are just a curiosity.? They are pics of the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel shaft
opposite the wheel.? There is a slot around about 1/5th of the nut and a set screw in the face.? Is this to lock the nut in place once the preload on the bearings is correct? I¡¯ve never seen one before.
The second two pics are of the other end of the shaft.? Next to the bearing is what looks like a bushing with two holes, 180 degrees apart around the
bushing.? Seems like that might be threaded but not sure.? I tried tapping with a punch and it does not seem to want to rotate.? Any advice on how to get this off, or do I just press the shaft out from the other side?
?
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Re: Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
Mc Master Carr, measure diameter and dia of hole. I buy one for every nut I come across, Dot worry u will need again? Designing and building for 50 years
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On Nov 5, 2020, at 11:16 AM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:
?
Got advice from someone who recently rebuilt one.? That is a threaded bushing.? Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench?? I¡¯ve attached pics from
the other fellow and a pick of the assembly from my saw.? The locking nut is on one end and then threaded bushing is on the other.? This pic labeled ¡°housing¡± shows the whole assembly.
?
Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench?
?
?
?
Joe?
First nut seems like a dumb design but ya a looking method. ?
Might be better off with double hook wrench ?nut?
Second one usa bugged up nut hole for a spaner wrench You should be able to see threads and measure the shaft more than likely remove and push through to other end.
I find that cleaning off everything first make working. On job much easier.
I have a dip tank with 20 gallons of ZEP purple mad out of plastic from with garbage can lid. ZEP foam oven cleaner is also very handy stuff if you can use out side.
Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
On Nov 5, 2020, at 9:25 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?The first item, the set screw in the face, yes, that is a locknut. The second part¡ hard to say, those might be holes for a spanner wrench and what does the opposite end look like? The end on the other side of the bracket? There might
be a nut there, and the spanner holes are to hold the shaft while the nut is tightened. If that piece with the spanner holes is a nut, you should be able to see a line indicating two pieces on the shaft side, so clean the grease off and look closely at that
joint.
?
?
Need some help from my FOG friends.? The first two pics are just a curiosity.? They are pics of the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel shaft
opposite the wheel.? There is a slot around about 1/5th of the nut and a set screw in the face.? Is this to lock the nut in place once the preload on the bearings is correct? I¡¯ve never seen one before.
The second two pics are of the other end of the shaft.? Next to the bearing is what looks like a bushing with two holes, 180 degrees apart around the
bushing.? Seems like that might be threaded but not sure.? I tried tapping with a punch and it does not seem to want to rotate.? Any advice on how to get this off, or do I just press the shaft out from the other side?
?
<Tanny Band Saw75.JPG> <Tanny Band Saw72.JPG> <Housing.jpg>
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Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
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Dave, consider the source.? John at PM is a sales rep.? If you want the inside skinny, give me a call, or talk directly to Matt? Nadeja?who owns PM.? There is a PM forum that might also be useful -?? ? And read the document I attached to my last post.
Shinta, ? I have some Section 179 deductions I need to use this year... ?? ? I received the below from PM Dave
Dave,
We have had the 728V-T for a couple years now but have made some upgrades along the way which continually makes it a new model. But the 728V-T is like the little brother to the 833TV. Prototyping and custom work is great for the 728V-T. Also, if you have a power restriction the 728V-T runs off of standard 110V power. The 833T-V runs off of 220V power. If you are looking to get into multi piece orders and have a need for production. The 8333TV will be your workhorse lathe for years to come. The added weight and all around size compared to the 728V-T allows the 833T-V to attack the hardest of metals with minimal chatter. Those are just some compares and contrast of both machines. There are quite a few videos on the internet detailing both the 728VT and 833T-V and many of those videos have also been shared on our Facebook page if you wanted to check them out from there. Thanks!
Regards,
John C.
Sales-Precision Matthews Machinery Co. The PM728 is relatively new (July 2020 availability) whereas the PM833T has been around a couple of years.? This year PM introduced the 833TV which has 2HP vector-rated 3-phase motor and is belt driven by a Delta VFD which eliminates the need for a geared head like found on the 833T and for woodworking applications is probably a better alternative. ?
The 728VT has a 1HP BLDC motor. and is in a different league rigidity wise.? The PM728 weighs 340 pounds (which is about half the weight of the original Rong Fu 45 that I owned before upgrading to the PM935), whereas the PM833T (geared head) is 900 pounds and the PM833TV (VFD driven) is 750 pounds.? The attached might be interesting for anyone considering a mill in this category as an alternative to a DP. ? This link ?is is from 2003, and since then several FOG members have gone this direction in lieu of getting a traditional drill press: ??
Shinta, ? ?Was the PM728 available when you bought your 833? Dave Davies I have a Delta 18-900L.? With good drill bits, it performs adequately.? From what posted here, it is no better than the golden offerings.? For about $800 when I bought it new, it meets expectation.? At one point, I considered restoring an old DP, but due to lack of experience in this arena, dropped the idea.? A few months back, we had a similar discussion on this topic.? The Ellis DP that David B linked to came up along with suggestion to go for a metal mill.? I have wanted to import a Yamamoto radial-arm DP from Japan for a long time, but the logistics prove difficult.? So, now I have a sitting in a crate in my shop.? The specs sheet states 0.0002-inch run out.? I think I will be happy drilling wood with it!? But that is not the main reason for the purchase.? I suppose the point is to consider metal working machines if you want more precision.??
SW
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
Dave, consider the source. ?John at PM is a sales rep. ?If you want the inside skinny, give me a call, or talk directly to Matt? Nadeja?who owns PM. ?There is a PM forum that might also be useful -?? ? And read the document I attached to my last post.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Shinta, ? I have some Section 179 deductions I need to use this year... ?? ? I received the below from PM Dave
Dave,
We have had the 728V-T for a couple years now but have made some upgrades along the way which continually makes it a new model. But the 728V-T is like the little brother to the 833TV. Prototyping and custom work is great for the 728V-T. Also, if you have a power restriction the 728V-T runs off of standard 110V power. The 833T-V runs off of 220V power. If you are looking to get into multi piece orders and have a need for production. The 8333TV will be your workhorse lathe for years to come. The added weight and all around size compared to the 728V-T allows the 833T-V to attack the hardest of metals with minimal chatter. Those are just some compares and contrast of both machines. There are quite a few videos on the internet detailing both the 728VT and 833T-V and many of those videos have also been shared on our Facebook page if you wanted to check them out from there. Thanks!
Regards,
John C.
Sales-Precision Matthews Machinery Co. The PM728 is relatively new (July 2020 availability) whereas the PM833T has been around a couple of years.? This year PM introduced the 833TV which has 2HP vector-rated 3-phase motor and is belt driven by a Delta VFD which eliminates the need for a geared head like found on the 833T and for woodworking applications is probably a better alternative. ?
The 728VT has a 1HP BLDC motor. and is in a different league rigidity wise.? The PM728 weighs 340 pounds (which is about half the weight of the original Rong Fu 45 that I owned before upgrading to the PM935), whereas the PM833T (geared head) is 900 pounds and the PM833TV (VFD driven) is 750 pounds.? The attached might be interesting for anyone considering a mill in this category as an alternative to a DP. ? This link ?is is from 2003, and since then several FOG members have gone this direction in lieu of getting a traditional drill press: ??
Shinta, ? ?Was the PM728 available when you bought your 833? Dave Davies I have a Delta 18-900L.? With good drill bits, it performs adequately.? From what posted here, it is no better than the golden offerings.? For about $800 when I bought it new, it meets expectation.? At one point, I considered restoring an old DP, but due to lack of experience in this arena, dropped the idea.? A few months back, we had a similar discussion on this topic.? The Ellis DP that David B linked to came up along with suggestion to go for a metal mill.? I have wanted to import a Yamamoto radial-arm DP from Japan for a long time, but the logistics prove difficult.? So, now I have a sitting in a crate in my shop.? The specs sheet states 0.0002-inch run out.? I think I will be happy drilling wood with it!? But that is not the main reason for the purchase.? I suppose the point is to consider metal working machines if you want more precision.??
SW
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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David P. Best
Joe Jensen