Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
Bill don't forget many factors at work here. Type of material, size and diameter of the cutters, angle the cutter is going to exit wood. Also quality of cut you are trying to get. Taylor's suggestions covers many of these issues to get a superior cut. A shaper is like most things only as good as the operators experience and the many failures witnessed.?
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-------- Original message -------- From: Bill B¨¦langer <Bllblngr@...> Date: 2020-10-06 9:54 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] Cutting mitered bridal joint
Your going to buy a shaper then use a chisel? Really?
Bill Belanger? score it with a marking knife. Cut it shy of the line and then chisel to the line.? Taylor Donsker 818.424.9046 On Oct 6, 2020, at 6:36 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?
tear out prevention techniques? include? using tape,? A? backing
sacrificial board, and even leaving the piece to be cut oversize?
in width so as to simply rip off the tear out later.
Which way to present your work to the cutter?? I like your image
below because it? doesn't "Feel" as if it would? result in the
work being caught and hurled back at the operator but only?
experimentation can prove the theory. Different? species of lumber
may react differently too.
Which direction is the safest and/or best (regarding tear out) to
cut mitered bridal joints on the shaper? I will cut it in one go
with a tenon cutter. If I'd have to do this in two steps,, I'd
probably mess up some cuts due to the flipping and angle change
for the back side.
I need to cut this:
<dummyfile.0.part>
Should I angle the fence forward or backward 45 degrees? The image
below is what I mean with "forward". Feeding direction is down in
the image. The pieces are 400 mm long, so I'll have no problem
clamping them safely to the fence with a backer board. This is
probably the best way to minimise tear out, but I'd like to know
if this is an "unsafe on a shaper scenario". I realise that the
piece being sucked into the cutter is a potential danger. Clamping
is essential, and I'll also try to fit one of the Aigner fingers
between the cutters.
?
<dummyfile.1.part>
|
Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
He asked to reduce tear out and the shaper will certainly give it a beating. You could use a backer board to help a bit i suppose but still not as clean as a sharp chisel Taylor Donsker www.tdonsker.com 818.424.9046
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On Oct 6, 2020, at 6:54 AM, Bill B¨¦langer <Bllblngr@...> wrote:
? Your going to buy a shaper then use a chisel? Really?
Bill Belanger? score it with a marking knife. Cut it shy of the line and then chisel to the line.? Taylor Donsker 818.424.9046 On Oct 6, 2020, at 6:36 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?
tear out prevention techniques? include? using tape,? A? backing
sacrificial board, and even leaving the piece to be cut oversize?
in width so as to simply rip off the tear out later.
Which way to present your work to the cutter?? I like your image
below because it? doesn't "Feel" as if it would? result in the
work being caught and hurled back at the operator but only?
experimentation can prove the theory. Different? species of lumber
may react differently too.
Which direction is the safest and/or best (regarding tear out) to
cut mitered bridal joints on the shaper? I will cut it in one go
with a tenon cutter. If I'd have to do this in two steps,, I'd
probably mess up some cuts due to the flipping and angle change
for the back side.
I need to cut this:
<dummyfile.0.part>
Should I angle the fence forward or backward 45 degrees? The image
below is what I mean with "forward". Feeding direction is down in
the image. The pieces are 400 mm long, so I'll have no problem
clamping them safely to the fence with a backer board. This is
probably the best way to minimise tear out, but I'd like to know
if this is an "unsafe on a shaper scenario". I realise that the
piece being sucked into the cutter is a potential danger. Clamping
is essential, and I'll also try to fit one of the Aigner fingers
between the cutters.
?
<dummyfile.1.part>
|
Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
Your going to buy a shaper then use a chisel? Really?
Bill Belanger?
score it with a marking knife. Cut it shy of the line and then chisel to the line.? Taylor Donsker 818.424.9046 On Oct 6, 2020, at 6:36 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?
tear out prevention techniques? include? using tape,? A? backing
sacrificial board, and even leaving the piece to be cut oversize?
in width so as to simply rip off the tear out later.
Which way to present your work to the cutter?? I like your image
below because it? doesn't "Feel" as if it would? result in the
work being caught and hurled back at the operator but only?
experimentation can prove the theory. Different? species of lumber
may react differently too.
Which direction is the safest and/or best (regarding tear out) to
cut mitered bridal joints on the shaper? I will cut it in one go
with a tenon cutter. If I'd have to do this in two steps,, I'd
probably mess up some cuts due to the flipping and angle change
for the back side.
I need to cut this:
<dummyfile.0.part>
Should I angle the fence forward or backward 45 degrees? The image
below is what I mean with "forward". Feeding direction is down in
the image. The pieces are 400 mm long, so I'll have no problem
clamping them safely to the fence with a backer board. This is
probably the best way to minimise tear out, but I'd like to know
if this is an "unsafe on a shaper scenario". I realise that the
piece being sucked into the cutter is a potential danger. Clamping
is essential, and I'll also try to fit one of the Aigner fingers
between the cutters.
?
<dummyfile.1.part>
|
Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
score it with a marking knife. Cut it shy of the line and then chisel to the line.? Taylor Donsker www.tdonsker.com 818.424.9046
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Show quoted text
On Oct 6, 2020, at 6:36 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?
tear out prevention techniques? include? using tape,? A? backing
sacrificial board, and even leaving the piece to be cut oversize?
in width so as to simply rip off the tear out later.
Which way to present your work to the cutter?? I like your image
below because it? doesn't "Feel" as if it would? result in the
work being caught and hurled back at the operator but only?
experimentation can prove the theory. Different? species of lumber
may react differently too.
Which direction is the safest and/or best (regarding tear out) to
cut mitered bridal joints on the shaper? I will cut it in one go
with a tenon cutter. If I'd have to do this in two steps,, I'd
probably mess up some cuts due to the flipping and angle change
for the back side.
I need to cut this:
<dummyfile.0.part>
Should I angle the fence forward or backward 45 degrees? The image
below is what I mean with "forward". Feeding direction is down in
the image. The pieces are 400 mm long, so I'll have no problem
clamping them safely to the fence with a backer board. This is
probably the best way to minimise tear out, but I'd like to know
if this is an "unsafe on a shaper scenario". I realise that the
piece being sucked into the cutter is a potential danger. Clamping
is essential, and I'll also try to fit one of the Aigner fingers
between the cutters.
?
<dummyfile.1.part>
|
Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
tear out prevention techniques? include? using tape,? A? backing
sacrificial board, and even leaving the piece to be cut oversize?
in width so as to simply rip off the tear out later.
Which way to present your work to the cutter?? I like your image
below because it? doesn't "Feel" as if it would? result in the
work being caught and hurled back at the operator but only?
experimentation can prove the theory. Different? species of lumber
may react differently too.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Which direction is the safest and/or best (regarding tear out) to
cut mitered bridal joints on the shaper? I will cut it in one go
with a tenon cutter. If I'd have to do this in two steps,, I'd
probably mess up some cuts due to the flipping and angle change
for the back side.
I need to cut this:
Should I angle the fence forward or backward 45 degrees? The image
below is what I mean with "forward". Feeding direction is down in
the image. The pieces are 400 mm long, so I'll have no problem
clamping them safely to the fence with a backer board. This is
probably the best way to minimise tear out, but I'd like to know
if this is an "unsafe on a shaper scenario". I realise that the
piece being sucked into the cutter is a potential danger. Clamping
is essential, and I'll also try to fit one of the Aigner fingers
between the cutters.
?
|
Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
Bird,
while these were used i bought strap hinges for shop doors from here:
and buy weatherstripping from here:
Mac recommended 20 yrs ago ......
imran
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On Oct 5, 2020, at 11:11 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote: ? Bird,
yes around 39¡± wide and 101¡± tall.
funny that door design was dictated by these used hinges i picked up for $25. by design i mean i only had 2 hinges per door if i had 3 i likely would have chosen different proportions and top rail would not be as wide.
i had paid nearly a grand for the 6 strap hinges for my shop¡¯s main door 20 yrs prior (which is composed of two 9¡¯ x 4.5¡¯ panels) so i jumped at the opportunity, when i saw these for $25. however, i presume they came off a freezer door as the straps were 2¡± offset, i.e. had i used them as they were the face of the door would be 2¡± out of the trim you see around. i had a bend put in the strap to create zero offset and painted them black.
cannot wait to start on my two 12¡¯x6¡¯ panels for the largest opening of this storage room. i have 8 strap hinges custom made locally for that door.
imran
On Oct 5, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Bird Cupps <birdc@...> wrote:
? Is each door then 3.25+ feet? (Making sure I understand the dimensions.) What was your source for the hinges?
Shawn,
this door is over 8¡¯ tall and 6.5¡¯ wide.
<image0.jpeg>
max tenon is 1¡±, here is the rail & stile joinery detail: <image1.jpeg>
the joinery is augmented by floating tenons <image2.jpeg>
so i milled no big traditional tenons. industry uses mostly dowel construction. something to consider.
imran? ? Hi all, I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance. Shawn
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Re: Cutting mitered bridle joint
I didn't manage to include the cutter image while editing the original post. Here it is:  I also corrected the subject line. Should be bridle joint instead of bridal =)
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Cutting mitered bridal joint
Which direction is the safest and/or best (regarding tear out) to cut mitered bridle joints on the shaper? I will cut it in one go with a tenon cutter. If I'd have to do this in two steps,, I'd probably mess up some cuts due to the flipping and angle change for the back side. I need to cut this:  Should I angle the fence forward or backward 45 degrees? The image below is what I mean with "forward". Feeding direction is down in the image. The pieces are 400 mm long, so I'll have no problem clamping them safely to the fence with a backer board. This is probably the best way to minimise tear out, but I'd like to know if this is an "unsafe on a shaper scenario". I realise that the piece being sucked into the cutter is a potential danger. Clamping is essential, and I'll also try to fit one of the Aigner fingers between the cutters. ?  Edit: This is the cutter:  
|
Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
Shawn If you require a different size cutter Whitehall will manufacture to your specifications. A few years back on a visit to UK I spent a couple of hours in there factory getting a private tour by there director David Hudson, it was fascinating, they also have a beautiful Martin shaper they use for testing.
Jonathan?
Bird,
yes around 39¡± wide and 101¡± tall.
funny that door design was dictated by these used hinges i picked up for $25. by design i mean i only had 2 hinges per door if i had 3 i likely would have chosen different proportions and top rail would not be as wide.
i had paid nearly a grand for the 6 strap hinges for my shop¡¯s main door 20 yrs prior (which is composed of two 9¡¯ x 4.5¡¯ panels) so i jumped at the opportunity, when i saw these for $25. however, i presume they came off a freezer door as the straps were 2¡± offset, i.e. had i used them as they were the face of the door would be 2¡± out of the trim you see around. i had a bend put in the strap to create zero offset and painted them black.
cannot wait to start on my two 12¡¯x6¡¯ panels for the largest opening of this storage room. i have 8 strap hinges custom made locally for that door.
imran On Oct 5, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Bird Cupps < birdc@...> wrote: ?Is each door then 3.25+ feet? (Making sure I understand the dimensions.) What was your source for the hinges?
Shawn,
this door is over 8¡¯ tall and 6.5¡¯ wide.
<image0.jpeg>
max tenon is 1¡±, here is the rail & stile joinery detail: <image1.jpeg>
the joinery is augmented by floating tenons <image2.jpeg>
so i milled no big traditional tenons. industry uses mostly dowel construction. something to consider.
imran? ? Hi all, I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance. Shawn
|
Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
Bird,
yes around 39¡± wide and 101¡± tall.
funny that door design was dictated by these used hinges i picked up for $25. by design i mean i only had 2 hinges per door if i had 3 i likely would have chosen different proportions and top rail would not be as wide.
i had paid nearly a grand for the 6 strap hinges for my shop¡¯s main door 20 yrs prior (which is composed of two 9¡¯ x 4.5¡¯ panels) so i jumped at the opportunity, when i saw these for $25. however, i presume they came off a freezer door as the straps were 2¡± offset, i.e. had i used them as they were the face of the door would be 2¡± out of the trim you see around. i had a bend put in the strap to create zero offset and painted them black.
cannot wait to start on my two 12¡¯x6¡¯ panels for the largest opening of this storage room. i have 8 strap hinges custom made locally for that door.
imran
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Show quoted text
On Oct 5, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Bird Cupps <birdc@...> wrote: ? Is each door then 3.25+ feet? (Making sure I understand the dimensions.) What was your source for the hinges?
Shawn,
this door is over 8¡¯ tall and 6.5¡¯ wide.
<image0.jpeg>
max tenon is 1¡±, here is the rail & stile joinery detail: <image1.jpeg>
the joinery is augmented by floating tenons <image2.jpeg>
so i milled no big traditional tenons. industry uses mostly dowel construction. something to consider.
imran? ? Hi all, I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance. Shawn
|
Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
Thanks David, looks like a winner. 30mm cutting height per disc is good so I can do 2 1/4¡± or 2 1/2¡± thick doors with 3/4¡± tenons, which aren¡¯t standard around here but do come up.?
On Monday, October 5, 2020, 4:49 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote: Shawn, a pair of these should do your job nicely. ? ?? ??
And they are a fraction of what you¡¯d pay Rangate. ? I¡¯ve gotten excellent service from Whitehill over the years.
You could also run a pair of stacked convention dado cutters bored to your spindle size. ? This is a pair of 10¡± Forrest dados on my 30mm spindle:
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
Thanks Imran, nice work. I mostly do traditional mortise and tenon doors and windows, but sometimes do floating tenon, depending on the situation. Most of my clients are in arts-and-crafts or Victorian homes, and the traditional approach fits well in those situations. My sash cutters give a 1 1/2" tenon length, so mortise and tenon sashes are quick and easy, and my mortiser is a 2,000 pound cast iron beast, hold the pedal down and watch is chop out a 5/8" mortise without a second thought. Two rebate cutters from Felder would be perfect for door rail tenons, but they're out of stock, one to two month lead time. The search continues...
Shawn
On Monday, October 5, 2020, 01:58:46 PM PDT, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Shawn,
this door is over 8¡¯ tall and 6.5¡¯ wide.
<image0.jpeg>
max tenon is 1¡±, here is the rail & stile joinery detail: <image1.jpeg>
the joinery is augmented by floating tenons <image2.jpeg>
so i milled no big traditional tenons. industry uses mostly dowel construction. something to consider.
imran? ? Hi all, I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance. Shawn
|
Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
Is each door then 3.25+ feet? (Making sure I understand the dimensions.) What was your source for the hinges?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Shawn,
this door is over 8¡¯ tall and 6.5¡¯ wide.
<image0.jpeg>
max tenon is 1¡±, here is the rail & stile joinery detail: <image1.jpeg>
the joinery is augmented by floating tenons <image2.jpeg>
so i milled no big traditional tenons. industry uses mostly dowel construction. something to consider.
imran? ? Hi all, I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance. Shawn
|
Hey Marlowe ,
I have fiddled with the spring tension endlessly, I'm not sure what else I could about the tension at this point.?
Thanks?
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Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
Hey Dave, pallet boards they are. My friend was remodeling his restaurant and had a plan to do pallet boards everywhere. After doing an accent wall, he decided against doing the whole restaurant and gave me the rest of his boards, after paying someone to process them all. My neighbor¡¯s house is 10¡¯ from that wall, so I tried to make it quiet for him by building that wall up a bit. After framing and insulating the cavities, I hung resilient channel to put 1/2¡± airspace between the studs and my interior sheathing. Then I put 1/2¡± ply, then 5/8¡± sheet rock, then the pallet boards. Standing outside with my ear against the shop wall, I hear a gentle hum, seems to work! The idler motor sits on the floor right beneath it. I¡¯ve got four 3phase machines, yet only one outlet for the converter, been meaning to add more so I don¡¯t have to unplug any time I go to a different 3 phase machine. Will someone please come kick me in the rear and tell me to just do it already? -Shawn
On Monday, October 5, 2020, 3:25 PM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote: Shawn, ? Two questions...First are those pallet boards on the wall?? Did you tongue/groove them?? Second, where do you have your idler for the AR phase converter? Thanks Dave On Mon, Oct 5, 2020 at 5:20 PM Shawn Kammerer via <shawnkammerer= [email protected]> wrote:
Those are perfect actually, they¡¯ll do a tenon about 2 3/4¡± long. My shaper has a throat opening of 320mm, but with the fence on, 230 is max diameter. I¡¯ve got two of those cutters in the cart at Scott+Sargeant, waiting for a response from Rangate. I¡¯ve heard too many good things about them to not give them a shot first. Yes, it¡¯s an old oscillating chisel mortiser, a Wysong and Miles 284.?Here¡¯s a pic:
Thanks again Imran, Shawn On Monday, October 5, 2020, 2:40 PM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote: Thanks Shawn. Is that the oscillating chisel mortiser? They are awesome, only seen videos. ? Your got to give what clients want/need. Check this link out ¨C I did not see any large rebate heads but they have a good filter to find items: ? I assume you are limited to 220mm dia. They are missing cutting depth info but price is very reasonable. Exchange rate is 1.3. I just got a heavy dado from them and shipping was ?55 (~$70). It arrived in 4 days. For details call them or email Louis Charnaud?(louis@...). If you order make sure your card does not have foreign exchange fee. It is less of a problem now a days but you never know. ? Definitely, call rangate also. I do not have anything from them but folks here are super happy with them. ? Imran ? ? Thanks Imran, nice work. I mostly do traditional mortise and tenon doors and windows, but sometimes do floating tenon, depending on the situation. Most of my clients are in arts-and-crafts or Victorian homes, and the traditional approach fits well in those situations. My sash cutters give a 1 1/2" tenon length, so mortise and tenon sashes are quick and easy, and my mortiser is a 2,000 pound cast iron beast, hold the pedal down and watch is chop out a 5/8" mortise without a second thought. Two rebate cutters from Felder would be perfect for door rail tenons, but they're out of stock, one to two month lead time. The search continues... On Monday, October 5, 2020, 01:58:46 PM PDT, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote: this door is over 8¡¯ tall and 6.5¡¯ wide. max tenon is 1¡±, here is the rail & stile joinery detail: the joinery is augmented by floating tenons so i milled no big traditional tenons. industry uses mostly dowel construction. something to consider. ? I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance.
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
Shawn, a pair of these should do your job nicely. ? ?? ??
And they are a fraction of what you¡¯d pay Rangate. ? I¡¯ve gotten excellent service from Whitehill over the years.
You could also run a pair of stacked convention dado cutters bored to your spindle size. ? This is a pair of 10¡± Forrest dados on my 30mm spindle:
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks Imran, nice work. I mostly do traditional mortise and tenon doors and windows, but sometimes do floating tenon, depending on the situation. Most of my clients are in arts-and-crafts or Victorian homes, and the traditional approach fits well in those situations. My sash cutters give a 1 1/2" tenon length, so mortise and tenon sashes are quick and easy, and my mortiser is a 2,000 pound cast iron beast, hold the pedal down and watch is chop out a 5/8" mortise without a second thought. Two rebate cutters from Felder would be perfect for door rail tenons, but they're out of stock, one to two month lead time. The search continues...
Shawn
On Monday, October 5, 2020, 01:58:46 PM PDT, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Shawn,
this door is over 8¡¯ tall and 6.5¡¯ wide.
<image0.jpeg>
max tenon is 1¡±, here is the rail & stile joinery detail: <image1.jpeg>
the joinery is augmented by floating tenons <image2.jpeg>
so i milled no big traditional tenons. industry uses mostly dowel construction. something to consider.
imran? ? Hi all, I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance. Shawn
|
Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
That is an awesome looking mortiser. Thanks for sharing. ? I would definitely check with rangate. Maybe it is not an issue for you but thought of one last thing. just ensure that the height of the cutter is such that you can lower it below table and get your tenon. Otherwise you will need to raise your stock. ? Imran ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Shawn Kammerer via groups.io Sent: Monday, October 05, 2020 6:20 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] tenoning cutter recommendations? ? Those are perfect actually, they¡¯ll do a tenon about 2 3/4¡± long. My shaper has a throat opening of 320mm, but with the fence on, 230 is max diameter. I¡¯ve got two of those cutters in the cart at Scott+Sargeant, waiting for a response from Rangate. I¡¯ve heard too many good things about them to not give them a shot first. Yes, it¡¯s an old oscillating chisel mortiser, a Wysong and Miles 284.?Here¡¯s a pic: 
Thanks again Imran,
On Monday, October 5, 2020, 2:40 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote: Thanks Shawn. Is that the oscillating chisel mortiser? They are awesome, only seen videos. ? Your got to give what clients want/need. Check this link out ¨C I did not see any large rebate heads but they have a good filter to find items: ? I assume you are limited to 220mm dia. They are missing cutting depth info but price is very reasonable. Exchange rate is 1.3. I just got a heavy dado from them and shipping was ?55 (~$70). It arrived in 4 days. For details call them or email Louis Charnaud?(louis@...). If you order make sure your card does not have foreign exchange fee. It is less of a problem now a days but you never know. ? Definitely, call rangate also. I do not have anything from them but folks here are super happy with them. ? Imran ? From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Shawn Kammerer via groups.io
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2020 5:14 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] tenoning cutter recommendations? ? Thanks Imran, nice work. I mostly do traditional mortise and tenon doors and windows, but sometimes do floating tenon, depending on the situation. Most of my clients are in arts-and-crafts or Victorian homes, and the traditional approach fits well in those situations. My sash cutters give a 1 1/2" tenon length, so mortise and tenon sashes are quick and easy, and my mortiser is a 2,000 pound cast iron beast, hold the pedal down and watch is chop out a 5/8" mortise without a second thought. Two rebate cutters from Felder would be perfect for door rail tenons, but they're out of stock, one to two month lead time. The search continues... On Monday, October 5, 2020, 01:58:46 PM PDT, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote: this door is over 8¡¯ tall and 6.5¡¯ wide. max tenon is 1¡±, here is the rail & stile joinery detail: the joinery is augmented by floating tenons so i milled no big traditional tenons. industry uses mostly dowel construction. something to consider. ? I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance.
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Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
Shawn, ? Two questions...First are those pallet boards on the wall?? Did you tongue/groove them?? Second, where do you have your idler for the AR phase converter? Thanks Dave
On Mon, Oct 5, 2020 at 5:20 PM Shawn Kammerer via <shawnkammerer= [email protected]> wrote:
Those are perfect actually, they¡¯ll do a tenon about 2 3/4¡± long. My shaper has a throat opening of 320mm, but with the fence on, 230 is max diameter. I¡¯ve got two of those cutters in the cart at Scott+Sargeant, waiting for a response from Rangate. I¡¯ve heard too many good things about them to not give them a shot first. Yes, it¡¯s an old oscillating chisel mortiser, a Wysong and Miles 284.?Here¡¯s a pic:
Thanks again Imran, Shawn On Monday, October 5, 2020, 2:40 PM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote: Thanks Shawn. Is that the oscillating chisel mortiser? They are awesome, only seen videos. ? Your got to give what clients want/need. Check this link out ¨C I did not see any large rebate heads but they have a good filter to find items: ? I assume you are limited to 220mm dia. They are missing cutting depth info but price is very reasonable. Exchange rate is 1.3. I just got a heavy dado from them and shipping was ?55 (~$70). It arrived in 4 days. For details call them or email Louis Charnaud?(louis@...). If you order make sure your card does not have foreign exchange fee. It is less of a problem now a days but you never know. ? Definitely, call rangate also. I do not have anything from them but folks here are super happy with them. ? Imran ? ? Thanks Imran, nice work. I mostly do traditional mortise and tenon doors and windows, but sometimes do floating tenon, depending on the situation. Most of my clients are in arts-and-crafts or Victorian homes, and the traditional approach fits well in those situations. My sash cutters give a 1 1/2" tenon length, so mortise and tenon sashes are quick and easy, and my mortiser is a 2,000 pound cast iron beast, hold the pedal down and watch is chop out a 5/8" mortise without a second thought. Two rebate cutters from Felder would be perfect for door rail tenons, but they're out of stock, one to two month lead time. The search continues... On Monday, October 5, 2020, 01:58:46 PM PDT, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote: this door is over 8¡¯ tall and 6.5¡¯ wide. max tenon is 1¡±, here is the rail & stile joinery detail: the joinery is augmented by floating tenons so i milled no big traditional tenons. industry uses mostly dowel construction. something to consider. ? I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance.
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
Those are perfect actually, they¡¯ll do a tenon about 2 3/4¡± long. My shaper has a throat opening of 320mm, but with the fence on, 230 is max diameter. I¡¯ve got two of those cutters in the cart at Scott+Sargeant, waiting for a response from Rangate. I¡¯ve heard too many good things about them to not give them a shot first. Yes, it¡¯s an old oscillating chisel mortiser, a Wysong and Miles 284.?Here¡¯s a pic:
Thanks again Imran, Shawn
On Monday, October 5, 2020, 2:40 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote: Thanks Shawn. Is that the oscillating chisel mortiser? They are awesome, only seen videos. ? Your got to give what clients want/need. Check this link out ¨C I did not see any large rebate heads but they have a good filter to find items: ? I assume you are limited to 220mm dia. They are missing cutting depth info but price is very reasonable. Exchange rate is 1.3. I just got a heavy dado from them and shipping was ?55 (~$70). It arrived in 4 days. For details call them or email Louis Charnaud?(louis@...). If you order make sure your card does not have foreign exchange fee. It is less of a problem now a days but you never know. ? Definitely, call rangate also. I do not have anything from them but folks here are super happy with them. ? Imran ? From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Shawn Kammerer via groups.io
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2020 5:14 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] tenoning cutter recommendations? ? Thanks Imran, nice work. I mostly do traditional mortise and tenon doors and windows, but sometimes do floating tenon, depending on the situation. Most of my clients are in arts-and-crafts or Victorian homes, and the traditional approach fits well in those situations. My sash cutters give a 1 1/2" tenon length, so mortise and tenon sashes are quick and easy, and my mortiser is a 2,000 pound cast iron beast, hold the pedal down and watch is chop out a 5/8" mortise without a second thought. Two rebate cutters from Felder would be perfect for door rail tenons, but they're out of stock, one to two month lead time. The search continues... On Monday, October 5, 2020, 01:58:46 PM PDT, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote: this door is over 8¡¯ tall and 6.5¡¯ wide. max tenon is 1¡±, here is the rail & stile joinery detail: the joinery is augmented by floating tenons so i milled no big traditional tenons. industry uses mostly dowel construction. something to consider. ? I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance.
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Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
Thanks Shawn. Is that the oscillating chisel mortiser? They are awesome, only seen videos. ? Your got to give what clients want/need. Check this link out ¨C I did not see any large rebate heads but they have a good filter to find items: ? I assume you are limited to 220mm dia. They are missing cutting depth info but price is very reasonable. Exchange rate is 1.3. I just got a heavy dado from them and shipping was ?55 (~$70). It arrived in 4 days. For details call them or email Louis Charnaud?(louis@...). If you order make sure your card does not have foreign exchange fee. It is less of a problem now a days but you never know. ? Definitely, call rangate also. I do not have anything from them but folks here are super happy with them. ? Imran ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Shawn Kammerer via groups.io Sent: Monday, October 05, 2020 5:14 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] tenoning cutter recommendations? ? Thanks Imran, nice work. I mostly do traditional mortise and tenon doors and windows, but sometimes do floating tenon, depending on the situation. Most of my clients are in arts-and-crafts or Victorian homes, and the traditional approach fits well in those situations. My sash cutters give a 1 1/2" tenon length, so mortise and tenon sashes are quick and easy, and my mortiser is a 2,000 pound cast iron beast, hold the pedal down and watch is chop out a 5/8" mortise without a second thought. Two rebate cutters from Felder would be perfect for door rail tenons, but they're out of stock, one to two month lead time. The search continues... On Monday, October 5, 2020, 01:58:46 PM PDT, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote: this door is over 8¡¯ tall and 6.5¡¯ wide. max tenon is 1¡±, here is the rail & stile joinery detail: the joinery is augmented by floating tenons so i milled no big traditional tenons. industry uses mostly dowel construction. something to consider. ? I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance.
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Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
Thanks Imran, nice work. I mostly do traditional mortise and tenon doors and windows, but sometimes do floating tenon, depending on the situation. Most of my clients are in arts-and-crafts or Victorian homes, and the traditional approach fits well in those situations. My sash cutters give a 1 1/2" tenon length, so mortise and tenon sashes are quick and easy, and my mortiser is a 2,000 pound cast iron beast, hold the pedal down and watch is chop out a 5/8" mortise without a second thought. Two rebate cutters from Felder would be perfect for door rail tenons, but they're out of stock, one to two month lead time. The search continues...
Shawn
On Monday, October 5, 2020, 01:58:46 PM PDT, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Shawn,
this door is over 8¡¯ tall and 6.5¡¯ wide.
max tenon is 1¡±, here is the rail & stile joinery detail:
the joinery is augmented by floating tenons
so i milled no big traditional tenons. industry uses mostly dowel construction. something to consider.
imran?
On Oct 5, 2020, at 3:51 PM, Shawn Kammerer via groups.io <shawnkammerer@...> wrote: ? Hi all, I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance. Shawn
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Bill Belanger
imran
David P. Best