From what I understand from talking with a Kaeser they don't recommend their compressors for any situation except where high use and continuous air is needed. This is so the constant cycling keeps the internal moisture buildup which destroys them, to a minimum. They also said following their 20 minute warmup cycle and proper maintenance schedule were critical. If you are going to be using it for short periods I would continually bleed air so it meets the needs of the compressor. I would also have another compressor for times when the requirements of the Kaeser can't be met. All that said selling it and recovering as much as can and buying the proper compressor for your needs would be IMHO for best bet. Too many people have documented destruction of this type of compressor by not meeting its requirements.?
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-------- Original message -------- From: Anil <anil00@...> Date: 2020-08-01 1:38 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] Kaeser Airtower
So, one already has a Kaeser (SX-5), what's a good way to make sure that it does not self destruct from under-use?? I bought it a little while ago to use with a CNC router and its usage has been very low.? It definitely gets far less use than it's intended for, so I'd welcome any best practices (e.g., run it for a couple of hours every day) etc. Anil
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Not where I would do it, I don¡¯t think there is enough slop from the bolt to the slot in the extrusion to allow much movement. #3 that is under the chassis, loosen all of those except for the one you want to pivot on, and then you can adjust the toe out. Be warned, you will most likely have to do some fine tuning for height as you tighten back up, but if you are careful not to move the upper #3 you might be ok. Messing about with the slider is never a fun things to do.
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On Aug 1, 2020, at 7:08 AM, Anthony Quesada < tonymiga2@...> wrote:
Happy Weekend everyone, I set up the slider close last winter after moving across the country, but now I'm mentally preparing myself to fine tune it now that I am settling in. ? I'm feeling a bit dim as there have been numerous postings about the subject here and I have read through David Best's bible and watched his great flickr videos on the subject as well, but somehow I still have a bit of confusion on the process of achieving the slider toe out....
- Do I achieve slider toe out by loosening all of the # 7 lock nuts and tapping on the end of the chassis with a rubber mallet???I started playing with this yesterday, but wasn't able to get any significant movement on the dial indicator. ?
- Do I need to exert more force than a mallet to get movement? Two other comments I saw mentioned on this forum said they used their hip and another sounded like they used a pry bar.?
- Before I screw something up, am I even on the right track with locknut #7 being the means of adjusting the toe out? ?
thanks so much and sorry to beat a dead horse here Anthony <IMG_8493.jpeg>
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Kf700s- it does NOT have the long horizontal set screws as shown below?
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On Aug 1, 2020, at 10:15, Randy Child via groups.io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
On Saturday, August 1, 2020, 07:08:59 AM PDT, Anthony Quesada <tonymiga2@...> wrote:
Happy Weekend everyone, I set up the slider close last winter after moving across the country, but now I'm mentally preparing myself to fine tune it now that I am settling in. ? I'm feeling a bit dim as there have been numerous postings about the subject here and I have read through David Best's bible and watched his great flickr videos on the subject as well, but somehow I still have a bit of confusion on the process of achieving the slider toe out....
- Do I achieve slider toe out by loosening all of the # 7 lock nuts and tapping on the end of the chassis with a rubber mallet???I started playing with this yesterday, but wasn't able to get any significant movement on the dial indicator. ?
- Do I need to exert more force than a mallet to get movement? Two other comments I saw mentioned on this forum said they used their hip and another sounded like they used a pry bar.?
- Before I screw something up, am I even on the right track with locknut #7 being the means of adjusting the toe out? ?
thanks so much and sorry to beat a dead horse here Anthony <IMG_8493.jpeg>
<IMG_8493.jpeg>
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Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem
#hammer
Sam,
i would probe the relay terminal pads on the PCB to confirm that the short is not in the board.
imran?
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On Aug 1, 2020, at 9:50 AM, sam via groups.io <sam@...> wrote: ? [Edited Message Follows]
Update! In the process of desoldering and pulling the (potentially dodgy) relay off the board I heard a very distinctive click. Retested contuinuity and it's no longer closed! I'll probably replace them both while I'm here but, sounds promising!
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Re: Delta Rockwell Multiplex 20-A RAS
A few comments
1. There are 3 classes of RAS:? home user level (Craftsman, Montgomery Ward, end-of-life Delta and DeWalt),? small professional shop: Delta and DeWalt mostly,? and large commercial machines.? To be safe a RAS has to be very solidly built: stay away from the home level ones.?? And they often don't stay square.
2.? Delta and Dewalt made smaller machines aimed at the home user, e.g. the Dewalt MBF and Delta 20A.? They are fine machines for smaller lumber, but you may find them limiting.?
3. Opinions on RAS are nearly as polarized as politics.?? I find mine extremely useful as a reliable long crosscut that is absolutely square, and I use it a lot.? On the other hand, it is one tool that I could live without if I had to.? Some see the RAS as pure danger.?
4. There are a few things you can do on an RAS that are quite dangerous.? Some of them were even promoted by Dewalt marketing back in the day as a 'do everything' machine.? On the other hand, I've done bone headed things with my table saw, router, drill press,? chisels, hammer, .... that make me just shake my head when I look back.
Terry Therneau
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A large receiver tank so it runs longer each time it needs to fill up. I would also add in a second small compressor to use when you just need enough air for clamps or something. That way you only run the Kaeser when you really need some volume of air.
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On Jul 31, 2020, at 10:37 PM, Anil < anil00@...> wrote:
So, one already has a Kaeser (SX-5), what's a good way to make sure that it does not self destruct from under-use?? I bought it a little while ago to use with a CNC router and its usage has been very low.? It definitely gets far less use than it's intended for, so I'd welcome any best practices (e.g., run it for a couple of hours every day) etc.
Anil
|
On Saturday, August 1, 2020, 07:08:59 AM PDT, Anthony Quesada <tonymiga2@...> wrote:
Happy Weekend everyone, I set up the slider close last winter after moving across the country, but now I'm mentally preparing myself to fine tune it now that I am settling in. ? I'm feeling a bit dim as there have been numerous postings about the subject here and I have read through David Best's bible and watched his great flickr videos on the subject as well, but somehow I still have a bit of confusion on the process of achieving the slider toe out....
- Do I achieve slider toe out by loosening all of the # 7 lock nuts and tapping on the end of the chassis with a rubber mallet???I started playing with this yesterday, but wasn't able to get any significant movement on the dial indicator. ?
- Do I need to exert more force than a mallet to get movement? Two other comments I saw mentioned on this forum said they used their hip and another sounded like they used a pry bar.?
- Before I screw something up, am I even on the right track with locknut #7 being the means of adjusting the toe out? ?
thanks so much and sorry to beat a dead horse here Anthony 
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Happy Weekend everyone, I set up the slider close last winter after moving across the country, but now I'm mentally preparing myself to fine tune it now that I am settling in. ? I'm feeling a bit dim as there have been numerous postings about the subject here and I have read through David Best's bible and watched his great flickr videos on the subject as well, but somehow I still have a bit of confusion on the process of achieving the slider toe out....
- Do I achieve slider toe out by loosening all of the # 7 lock nuts and tapping on the end of the chassis with a rubber mallet???I started playing with this yesterday, but wasn't able to get any significant movement on the dial indicator. ?
- Do I need to exert more force than a mallet to get movement? Two other comments I saw mentioned on this forum said they used their hip and another sounded like they used a pry bar.?
- Before I screw something up, am I even on the right track with locknut #7 being the means of adjusting the toe out? ?
thanks so much and sorry to beat a dead horse here Anthony 
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Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem
#hammer
Sam, The 'Click' was the crowbar getting lifted off the line! Fingers crossed.
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On Friday, July 31, 2020, 07:27:48 PM PDT, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:
I get it now, you want friction. Can you send pic of your mount just for clarity. I think you¡¯re saying it¡¯s different than Joel¡¯s and you¡¯re using ball bearing? The $1 plastic or $2 bronze might be better since they have a little friction.
On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 6:28 PM Randy Child via <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
Ok.. on the boom arm I made with the flange bearings, they only cost me $14 a piece.. so they were relatively inexpensive. what I did was add a neoprene washer to slow the rotation of the arm be compressing that washer between the bearing and an outer washer.? The more I tightened down on the nut, the more resistance I got and the slower the boom are became, so i was able to move the arm where I wanted it to be and it stayed there and didn't continuing swinging.
On Friday, July 31, 2020, 03:56:42 PM PDT, mark thomas < murkyd@...> wrote:
Maybe there¡¯s a misunderstanding of where the bearing is. Randy, did you expect the shaft to be fixed on the arm, ie, the shaft is bound to the bronze ¡°bushings¡± (which are actually bearings)? And thus the shaft is rotating? ??
Since Joel¡¯s photo shows bronze bearings, I assumed the shaft was fixed.?
One thing is certain ¡ª there is no point in both the arm and the mount having bearings.?
Friction of wood against metal, works good with my 16' unit. Yes there's a little sag but what does it really matter.?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 2020-07-31 6:22 p.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] Boom Arm progress
Mark..while that's a good idea, whats to keep the arm from continuing swinging forward if you want it to stop at a certain area? is there a way to give the arm some resistance so it stays in a position and not keep moving?
On Friday, July 31, 2020, 07:22:57 AM PDT, mark thomas < murkyd@...> wrote:
Randy you already have bearings, so using flange-mounted bearings to hold a shaft makes no sense and is expensive ($30+ each) and complicated.? For free and i less than 5 minutes I make this demonstration of keeping it simple.? Bottom shaft holder is bored an inch deep to hold shaft, top is bored through, and you just drop the shaft through.? Make the mounting holes on the top block slightly larger diameter than the screws that mount it (and use a washer) and then you have a little wiggle room to adjust side to side to get it aligned properly. 
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Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem
#hammer
Update! In the process of desoldering and pulling the (potentially dodgy) relay off the board I heard a very distinctive click. Retested contuinuity and it's no longer closed!
I'll probably replace them both while I'm here but, sounds promising!
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Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem
#hammer
Sam, The relay is most likely a sealed unit. The top will not come off. Hard to tell from your photos, but if the relay identifier numbers/letters are exactly the same on both, (below the JQX-11F) then the relays are of the same configuration. Take them out in turn and test.
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So, one already has a Kaeser (SX-5), what's a good way to make sure that it does not self destruct from under-use?? I bought it a little while ago to use with a CNC router and its usage has been very low.? It definitely gets far less use than it's intended for, so I'd welcome any best practices (e.g., run it for a couple of hours every day) etc.
Anil
|
Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem
#hammer
Sam, don¡¯t forget that some relays the ¡®off¡¯ unpowered condition is for contacts to be CLOSED. ?Depends on the application. ?I know that on the 240v C3-31, one of the contactor contact pairs (21/22 on the cct diagram I have) are closed when de-energised.
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also my suggestion of bypassing the brake board is one way to determine if it is the source of the problem or not.
imran? ? Sam,
if it is a NO relay and is testing short you may have found at least one bad part. however, to be sure that the relay is shorted, as opposed to another component in parallel, you will need to remove it from the PCB and confirm.
imran? On Jul 31, 2020, at 4:44 PM, sam via < sam@...> wrote: ? [Edited Message Follows]
So - not sure how reliable this test is as it's done on an installed component but, I've found that one of the relays appears to be closed, whereas the other is open. I'm relatively sure the diagram on these relays indicates "normally open" so. Should I remove the relay that appears to be closed and is potentially faulty to test on its own, or would I be safe in assuming that is the problem? And thanks for that Davy - learning loads here hah! Will move onto thyristors after the above methinks..
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Re: FELDER Tilting Spindle Shaper F 700 Z
#forsale
JBell, send me an email at
joe.jensen@....? Seriously interested but I live in AZ
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of jbell1000 via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 4:47 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] FELDER Tilting Spindle Shaper F 700 Z #forsale
?
For Sale:
FELDER Tilting Spindle Shaper F 700 Z?
Like New (Maybe 15 hours of use)
$7500
7.5 HP 3 phase
Electronic display (inch scale)
Power electronic spindle hight adjustment
Micro Adjustment fence
Sliding table with crosscut fence and stops
Rapid spindle change?
1 1/4" Spindle
Forward and reverse run L & R
Accessories:
- FELDER Power feed "F 38" 3 x 230 (8 speed forward & reverse)
- (Extra) High Speed Router Spindle w/ Collet (Rapid Collet Swap Out) (takes 3 min to swap out)
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I get it now, you want friction. Can you send pic of your mount just for clarity. I think you¡¯re saying it¡¯s different than Joel¡¯s and you¡¯re using ball bearing? The $1 plastic or $2 bronze might be better since they have a little friction.
On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 6:28 PM Randy Child via <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
Ok.. on the boom arm I made with the flange bearings, they only cost me $14 a piece.. so they were relatively inexpensive. what I did was add a neoprene washer to slow the rotation of the arm be compressing that washer between the bearing and an outer washer.? The more I tightened down on the nut, the more resistance I got and the slower the boom are became, so i was able to move the arm where I wanted it to be and it stayed there and didn't continuing swinging.
On Friday, July 31, 2020, 03:56:42 PM PDT, mark thomas < murkyd@...> wrote:
Maybe there¡¯s a misunderstanding of where the bearing is. Randy, did you expect the shaft to be fixed on the arm, ie, the shaft is bound to the bronze ¡°bushings¡± (which are actually bearings)? And thus the shaft is rotating? ??
Since Joel¡¯s photo shows bronze bearings, I assumed the shaft was fixed.?
One thing is certain ¡ª there is no point in both the arm and the mount having bearings.?
Friction of wood against metal, works good with my 16' unit. Yes there's a little sag but what does it really matter.?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 2020-07-31 6:22 p.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] Boom Arm progress
Mark..while that's a good idea, whats to keep the arm from continuing swinging forward if you want it to stop at a certain area? is there a way to give the arm some resistance so it stays in a position and not keep moving?
On Friday, July 31, 2020, 07:22:57 AM PDT, mark thomas < murkyd@...> wrote:
Randy you already have bearings, so using flange-mounted bearings to hold a shaft makes no sense and is expensive ($30+ each) and complicated.? For free and i less than 5 minutes I make this demonstration of keeping it simple.? Bottom shaft holder is bored an inch deep to hold shaft, top is bored through, and you just drop the shaft through.? Make the mounting holes on the top block slightly larger diameter than the screws that mount it (and use a washer) and then you have a little wiggle room to adjust side to side to get it aligned properly. 
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Re: FELDER Tilting Spindle Shaper F 700 Z
#forsale
J bell,
just wanted to mention that label and paperwork says 4KW which is 5.3HP.
imran
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On Jul 31, 2020, at 7:52 PM, jbell1000 via groups.io <jbell1000@...> wrote: ?For Sale: FELDER Tilting Spindle Shaper F 700 Z?Like New (Maybe 15 hours of use)
$7500 7.5 HP 3 phaseElectronic display (inch scale)Power electronic spindle hight adjustmentMicro Adjustment fenceSliding table with crosscut fence and stopsRapid spindle change?1 1/4" SpindleForward and reverse run L & RAccessories:- FELDER Power feed "F 38" 3 x 230 (8 speed forward & reverse)- (Extra) High Speed Router Spindle w/ Collet (Rapid Collet Swap Out) (takes 3 min to swap out)
<IMG_17.jpg> <IMG_16.jpg> <IMG_5.JPG> <IMG_4.JPG> <IMG_3.JPG> <IMG_2.JPG> <IMG_1.JPG> <IMG_15.jpg> <IMG_14.jpg> <IMG_13-1.jpg> <IMG_12.jpg> <IMG_11.jpg> <IMG_9.JPG> <IMG_8.JPG> <IMG_6.JPG>
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Ok.. on the boom arm I made with the flange bearings, they only cost me $14 a piece.. so they were relatively inexpensive. what I did was add a neoprene washer to slow the rotation of the arm be compressing that washer between the bearing and an outer washer.? The more I tightened down on the nut, the more resistance I got and the slower the boom are became, so i was able to move the arm where I wanted it to be and it stayed there and didn't continuing swinging.
On Friday, July 31, 2020, 03:56:42 PM PDT, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:
Maybe there¡¯s a misunderstanding of where the bearing is. Randy, did you expect the shaft to be fixed on the arm, ie, the shaft is bound to the bronze ¡°bushings¡± (which are actually bearings)? And thus the shaft is rotating? ??
Since Joel¡¯s photo shows bronze bearings, I assumed the shaft was fixed.?
One thing is certain ¡ª there is no point in both the arm and the mount having bearings.?
Friction of wood against metal, works good with my 16' unit. Yes there's a little sag but what does it really matter.?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 2020-07-31 6:22 p.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] Boom Arm progress
Mark..while that's a good idea, whats to keep the arm from continuing swinging forward if you want it to stop at a certain area? is there a way to give the arm some resistance so it stays in a position and not keep moving?
On Friday, July 31, 2020, 07:22:57 AM PDT, mark thomas < murkyd@...> wrote:
Randy you already have bearings, so using flange-mounted bearings to hold a shaft makes no sense and is expensive ($30+ each) and complicated.? For free and i less than 5 minutes I make this demonstration of keeping it simple.? Bottom shaft holder is bored an inch deep to hold shaft, top is bored through, and you just drop the shaft through.? Make the mounting holes on the top block slightly larger diameter than the screws that mount it (and use a washer) and then you have a little wiggle room to adjust side to side to get it aligned properly. 
|
FELDER Tilting Spindle Shaper F 700 Z
#forsale
For Sale:
FELDER Tilting Spindle Shaper F 700 Z?
Like New (Maybe 15 hours of use)
$7500 reduced to $6950
4KW /?5.3HP ?/ 3 phase
Electronic display (inch scale)
Power electronic spindle hight adjustment
Micro Adjustment fence
Sliding table with crosscut fence and stops
Rapid spindle change?
1 1/4" Spindle
Forward and reverse run L & R
Accessories:
- FELDER Power feed "F 38" 3 x 230 (8 speed forward & reverse)
- (Extra) High Speed Router Spindle w/ Collet (Rapid Collet Swap Out) (takes 3 min to swap out)
?
|
Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem
#hammer
also my suggestion of bypassing the brake board is one way to determine if it is the source of the problem or not.
imran?
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On Jul 31, 2020, at 6:22 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote: ? Sam,
if it is a NO relay and is testing short you may have found at least one bad part. however, to be sure that the relay is shorted, as opposed to another component in parallel, you will need to remove it from the PCB and confirm.
imran?
On Jul 31, 2020, at 4:44 PM, sam via groups.io <sam@...> wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
So - not sure how reliable this test is as it's done on an installed component but, I've found that one of the relays appears to be closed, whereas the other is open. I'm relatively sure the diagram on these relays indicates "normally open" so. Should I remove the relay that appears to be closed and is potentially faulty to test on its own, or would I be safe in assuming that is the problem? And thanks for that Davy - learning loads here hah! Will move onto thyristors after the above methinks..
|
imran
.jpg)
Joe Jensen
John Bell
