Re: Kaeser Airtower

#108356

So, one already has a Kaeser (SX-5), what's a good way to make sure that it does not self destruct from under-use?? I bought it a little while ago to use with a CNC router and its usage has been very low.? It definitely gets far less use than it's intended for, so I'd welcome any best practices (e.g., run it for a couple of hours every day) etc.

Anil

Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem #hammer

Roger S

#108355

开云体育

Sam, don’t forget that some relays the ‘off’ unpowered condition is for contacts to be CLOSED. ?Depends on the application. ?I know that on the 240v C3-31, one of the contactor contact pairs (21/22 on the cct diagram I have) are closed when de-energised.

Roger

Show quoted text

On 1 Aug 2020, at 00:45, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

also my suggestion of bypassing the brake board is one way to determine if it is the source of the problem or not.

imran?

On Jul 31, 2020, at 6:22 PM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?
Sam,

if it is a NO relay and is testing short you may have found at least one bad part. however, to be sure that the relay is shorted, as opposed to another component in parallel, you will need to remove it from the PCB and confirm.

imran?

On Jul 31, 2020, at 4:44 PM, sam via <sam@...> wrote:

?
[Edited Message Follows]
So - not sure how reliable this test is as it's done on an installed component but, I've found that one of the relays appears to be closed, whereas the other is open. I'm relatively sure the diagram on these relays indicates "normally open" so.

Should I remove the relay that appears to be closed and is potentially faulty to test on its own, or would I be safe in assuming that is the problem?

And thanks for that Davy - learning loads here hah! Will move onto thyristors after the above methinks..

Re: FELDER Tilting Spindle Shaper F 700 Z #forsale

#108354

开云体育

JBell, send me an email at joe.jensen@....? Seriously interested but I live in AZ

?

Show quoted text

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of jbell1000 via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 4:47 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] FELDER Tilting Spindle Shaper F 700 Z #forsale

?

For Sale:
FELDER Tilting Spindle Shaper F 700 Z?
Like New (Maybe 15 hours of use)
$7500
7.5 HP 3 phase
Electronic display (inch scale)
Power electronic spindle hight adjustment
Micro Adjustment fence
Sliding table with crosscut fence and stops
Rapid spindle change?
1 1/4" Spindle
Forward and reverse run L & R

Accessories:
- FELDER Power feed "F 38" 3 x 230 (8 speed forward & reverse)
- (Extra) High Speed Router Spindle w/ Collet (Rapid Collet Swap Out) (takes 3 min to swap out)

Re: Boom Arm progress

#108353

I get it now, you want friction. Can you send pic of your mount just for clarity. I think you’re saying it’s different than Joel’s and you’re using ball bearing? The $1 plastic or $2 bronze might be better since they have a little friction.

Show quoted text

On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 6:28 PM Randy Child via <strongman_one=[email protected]> wrote:

Ok.. on the boom arm I made with the flange bearings, they only cost me $14 a piece.. so they were relatively inexpensive. what I did was add a neoprene washer to slow the rotation of the arm be compressing that washer between the bearing and an outer washer.? The more I tightened down on the nut, the more resistance I got and the slower the boom are became, so i was able to move the arm where I wanted it to be and it stayed there and didn't continuing swinging.

On Friday, July 31, 2020, 03:56:42 PM PDT, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:

Maybe there’s a misunderstanding of where the bearing is. Randy, did you expect the shaft to be fixed on the arm, ie, the shaft is bound to the bronze “bushings” (which are actually bearings)? And thus the shaft is rotating? ??

Since Joel’s photo shows bronze bearings, I assumed the shaft was fixed.?

One thing is certain — there is no point in both the arm and the mount having bearings.?

On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 3:34 PM "jmkserv@... <jmkserv@...> wrote:

Friction of wood against metal, works good with my 16' unit. Yes there's a little sag but what does it really matter.?

John
JMK Services

-------- Original message --------
From: "Randy Child via " <strongman_one=[email protected]>
Date: 2020-07-31 6:22 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Boom Arm progress

Mark..while that's a good idea, whats to keep the arm from continuing swinging forward if you want it to stop at a certain area? is there a way to give the arm some resistance so it stays in a position and not keep moving?

On Friday, July 31, 2020, 07:22:57 AM PDT, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:

Randy you already have bearings, so using flange-mounted bearings to hold a shaft makes no sense and is expensive ($30+ each) and complicated.? For free and i less than 5 minutes I make this demonstration of keeping it simple.? Bottom shaft holder is bored an inch deep to hold shaft, top is bored through, and you just drop the shaft through.? Make the mounting holes on the top block slightly larger diameter than the screws that mount it (and use a washer) and then you have a little wiggle room to adjust side to side to get it aligned properly.

Re: FELDER Tilting Spindle Shaper F 700 Z #forsale

#108352

开云体育

J bell,

just wanted to mention that label and paperwork says 4KW which is 5.3HP.

imran

Show quoted text

On Jul 31, 2020, at 7:52 PM, jbell1000 via groups.io <jbell1000@...> wrote:

?For Sale:
FELDER Tilting Spindle Shaper F 700 Z?
Like New (Maybe 15 hours of use)
$7500
7.5 HP 3 phase
Electronic display (inch scale)
Power electronic spindle hight adjustment
Micro Adjustment fence
Sliding table with crosscut fence and stops
Rapid spindle change?
1 1/4" Spindle
Forward and reverse run L & R

Accessories:
- FELDER Power feed "F 38" 3 x 230 (8 speed forward & reverse)
- (Extra) High Speed Router Spindle w/ Collet (Rapid Collet Swap Out) (takes 3 min to swap out)

<IMG_17.jpg>

<IMG_16.jpg>

<IMG_5.JPG>

<IMG_4.JPG>

<IMG_3.JPG>

<IMG_2.JPG>

<IMG_1.JPG>

<IMG_15.jpg>

<IMG_14.jpg>

<IMG_13-1.jpg>

<IMG_12.jpg>

<IMG_11.jpg>

<IMG_9.JPG>

<IMG_8.JPG>

<IMG_6.JPG>

Re: Boom Arm progress

#108351

Ok.. on the boom arm I made with the flange bearings, they only cost me $14 a piece.. so they were relatively inexpensive. what I did was add a neoprene washer to slow the rotation of the arm be compressing that washer between the bearing and an outer washer.? The more I tightened down on the nut, the more resistance I got and the slower the boom are became, so i was able to move the arm where I wanted it to be and it stayed there and didn't continuing swinging.

On Friday, July 31, 2020, 03:56:42 PM PDT, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:

Maybe there’s a misunderstanding of where the bearing is. Randy, did you expect the shaft to be fixed on the arm, ie, the shaft is bound to the bronze “bushings” (which are actually bearings)? And thus the shaft is rotating? ??

Since Joel’s photo shows bronze bearings, I assumed the shaft was fixed.?

One thing is certain — there is no point in both the arm and the mount having bearings.?

Show quoted text

On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 3:34 PM "jmkserv@... <jmkserv@...> wrote:

Friction of wood against metal, works good with my 16' unit. Yes there's a little sag but what does it really matter.?

John
JMK Services

-------- Original message --------
From: "Randy Child via " <strongman_one=[email protected]>
Date: 2020-07-31 6:22 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Boom Arm progress

Mark..while that's a good idea, whats to keep the arm from continuing swinging forward if you want it to stop at a certain area? is there a way to give the arm some resistance so it stays in a position and not keep moving?

On Friday, July 31, 2020, 07:22:57 AM PDT, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:

Randy you already have bearings, so using flange-mounted bearings to hold a shaft makes no sense and is expensive ($30+ each) and complicated.? For free and i less than 5 minutes I make this demonstration of keeping it simple.? Bottom shaft holder is bored an inch deep to hold shaft, top is bored through, and you just drop the shaft through.? Make the mounting holes on the top block slightly larger diameter than the screws that mount it (and use a washer) and then you have a little wiggle room to adjust side to side to get it aligned properly.

FELDER Tilting Spindle Shaper F 700 Z #forsale

#108350
Edited

For Sale:
FELDER Tilting Spindle Shaper F 700 Z?
Like New (Maybe 15 hours of use)
$7500 reduced to $6950
4KW /?5.3HP ?/ 3 phase
Electronic display (inch scale)
Power electronic spindle hight adjustment
Micro Adjustment fence
Sliding table with crosscut fence and stops
Rapid spindle change?
1 1/4" Spindle
Forward and reverse run L & R

Accessories:
- FELDER Power feed "F 38" 3 x 230 (8 speed forward & reverse)
- (Extra) High Speed Router Spindle w/ Collet (Rapid Collet Swap Out) (takes 3 min to swap out)

?

Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem #hammer

#108349

开云体育

also my suggestion of bypassing the brake board is one way to determine if it is the source of the problem or not.

imran?

Show quoted text

On Jul 31, 2020, at 6:22 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?

Sam,

if it is a NO relay and is testing short you may have found at least one bad part. however, to be sure that the relay is shorted, as opposed to another component in parallel, you will need to remove it from the PCB and confirm.

imran?

On Jul 31, 2020, at 4:44 PM, sam via groups.io <sam@...> wrote:

?

[Edited Message Follows]

So - not sure how reliable this test is as it's done on an installed component but, I've found that one of the relays appears to be closed, whereas the other is open. I'm relatively sure the diagram on these relays indicates "normally open" so.

Should I remove the relay that appears to be closed and is potentially faulty to test on its own, or would I be safe in assuming that is the problem?

And thanks for that Davy - learning loads here hah! Will move onto thyristors after the above methinks..

Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem #hammer

Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq.

#108348

On 7/31/20 1:29 PM, Davy Cooper wrote:
f testing the thyristors
or just replace 'em? they are under $12.00 each

Re: Boom Arm progress

#108347

Maybe there’s a misunderstanding of where the bearing is. Randy, did you expect the shaft to be fixed on the arm, ie, the shaft is bound to the bronze “bushings” (which are actually bearings)? And thus the shaft is rotating? ??

Since Joel’s photo shows bronze bearings, I assumed the shaft was fixed.?

One thing is certain — there is no point in both the arm and the mount having bearings.?

Show quoted text

On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 3:34 PM "jmkserv@... <jmkserv@...> wrote:

Friction of wood against metal, works good with my 16' unit. Yes there's a little sag but what does it really matter.?

John
JMK Services

-------- Original message --------
From: "Randy Child via " <strongman_one=[email protected]>
Date: 2020-07-31 6:22 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Boom Arm progress

Mark..while that's a good idea, whats to keep the arm from continuing swinging forward if you want it to stop at a certain area? is there a way to give the arm some resistance so it stays in a position and not keep moving?

On Friday, July 31, 2020, 07:22:57 AM PDT, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:

Randy you already have bearings, so using flange-mounted bearings to hold a shaft makes no sense and is expensive ($30+ each) and complicated.? For free and i less than 5 minutes I make this demonstration of keeping it simple.? Bottom shaft holder is bored an inch deep to hold shaft, top is bored through, and you just drop the shaft through.? Make the mounting holes on the top block slightly larger diameter than the screws that mount it (and use a washer) and then you have a little wiggle room to adjust side to side to get it aligned properly.

Re: Boom Arm progress

#108346

开云体育

Friction of wood against metal, works good with my 16' unit. Yes there's a little sag but what does it really matter.?

John

JMK Services

Show quoted text

-------- Original message --------

From: "Randy Child via groups.io" <strongman_one@...>

Date: 2020-07-31 6:22 p.m. (GMT-05:00)

To: [email protected]

Subject: Re: [FOG] Boom Arm progress

Mark..while that's a good idea, whats to keep the arm from continuing swinging forward if you want it to stop at a certain area? is there a way to give the arm some resistance so it stays in a position and not keep moving?

On Friday, July 31, 2020, 07:22:57 AM PDT, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:

Randy you already have bearings, so using flange-mounted bearings to hold a shaft makes no sense and is expensive ($30+ each) and complicated.? For free and i less than 5 minutes I make this demonstration of keeping it simple.? Bottom shaft holder is bored an inch deep to hold shaft, top is bored through, and you just drop the shaft through.? Make the mounting holes on the top block slightly larger diameter than the screws that mount it (and use a washer) and then you have a little wiggle room to adjust side to side to get it aligned properly.

Re: Boom Arm progress

#108345

On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 03:22 PM, Randy Child wrote:

whats to keep the arm from continuing swinging forward if you want it to stop at a certain area

I don't know what you mean, can you re-state it?

Note this is functionally the same as what Joel showed in the pic below.? My main point is that it can just as easily be made of scrap wood, ie you certainly don't need to add $100 of flanged bearings and brackets just to hold a shaft.

Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem #hammer

#108344

开云体育

Sam,

if it is a NO relay and is testing short you may have found at least one bad part. however, to be sure that the relay is shorted, as opposed to another component in parallel, you will need to remove it from the PCB and confirm.

imran?

Show quoted text

On Jul 31, 2020, at 4:44 PM, sam via groups.io <sam@...> wrote:

?

[Edited Message Follows]

So - not sure how reliable this test is as it's done on an installed component but, I've found that one of the relays appears to be closed, whereas the other is open. I'm relatively sure the diagram on these relays indicates "normally open" so.

Should I remove the relay that appears to be closed and is potentially faulty to test on its own, or would I be safe in assuming that is the problem?

And thanks for that Davy - learning loads here hah! Will move onto thyristors after the above methinks..

Re: Boom Arm progress

#108343

Mac.. can you show a close up of the mounting bracket on the wall?

On Friday, July 31, 2020, 09:29:59 AM PDT, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote:

Light next to my mortiser, nuts, ?spherical washers treaded rod , strut and angle brackets . ??

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

airtightclamps@...

Designing and building for 50 years

Show quoted text

On Jul 31, 2020, at 9:22 AM, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:

?Randy you already have bearings, so using flange-mounted bearings to hold a shaft makes no sense and is expensive ($30+ each) and complicated.? For free and i less than 5 minutes I make this demonstration of keeping it simple.? Bottom shaft holder is bored an inch deep to hold shaft, top is bored through, and you just drop the shaft through.? Make the mounting holes on the top block slightly larger diameter than the screws that mount it (and use a washer) and then you have a little wiggle room to adjust side to side to get it aligned properly.

<IMG_0435.jpeg>

Re: Boom Arm progress

#108342

Mark..while that's a good idea, whats to keep the arm from continuing swinging forward if you want it to stop at a certain area? is there a way to give the arm some resistance so it stays in a position and not keep moving?

On Friday, July 31, 2020, 07:22:57 AM PDT, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:

Randy you already have bearings, so using flange-mounted bearings to hold a shaft makes no sense and is expensive ($30+ each) and complicated.? For free and i less than 5 minutes I make this demonstration of keeping it simple.? Bottom shaft holder is bored an inch deep to hold shaft, top is bored through, and you just drop the shaft through.? Make the mounting holes on the top block slightly larger diameter than the screws that mount it (and use a washer) and then you have a little wiggle room to adjust side to side to get it aligned properly.

Re: Massaranduba headboard and footboard.

#108341

I will when I get something more than parts.

Mark

Re: Zero Clearance Inserts for Hammer K-3

#108340

开云体育

Hi all

I love the zci that Ramon made, it works great.? Much better than the stock plate.? Here's mine without the scoring blade.?

Thanks again Ramon!

Best

Larry

Show quoted text

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...>
Sent: Thursday, July 30, 2020 9:24 AM
To: jmkserv@... <jmkserv@...>
Cc: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Zero Clearance Inserts for Hammer K-3

?

Thanks for the clarification, don’t know how I misunderstood this...

?“Scoring pretty well eliminates their use on the slider because of the table slider height difference”

Regards, Mark

On Jul 30, 2020, at 12:23 PM, Mk Vt <mkessler10@...> wrote:

?Thanks for the clarification, don’t know how I misunderstood this...
?“Scoring pretty well eliminates their use on the slider because of the table slider height difference”

Regards, Mark

On Jul 30, 2020, at 12:20 PM, jmkserv@... wrote:

?
I didn't say that it doesn't work I said it not needed with scoring. I had a nice one like you are showing until it got blown to rat shit with a tapered cutoff. Now I use this when necessary. But as always whatever works for you, my experience dictates otherwise. The other inserts are 10 years old and only used for support when doing dados. No blowouts on the thin material but dados really don't create that issue.?

John
JMK Services

-------- Original message --------

From: Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...>

Date: 2020-07-30 11:58 a.m. (GMT-05:00)

To: [email protected]

Subject: Re: [FOG] Zero Clearance Inserts for Hammer K-3

John, Don’t understand your comment that a zci won’t work with scoring, maybe I am misunderstanding your comment but I have no issues with my 20min Prototype build of one, I also have no howling like you describe. I could see the potential for the jamming like you describe but haven’t had that yet and kickback from small cutoffs is gone

Regards, Mark

On Jul 30, 2020, at 11:22 AM, jmkserv@... wrote:

?
Felder must have changed their inserts from the fine ply phenolic. I've got 3 and never had an issue with them. Scoring pretty well eliminates their use on the slider because of the table slider height difference and I don't work from the fence side so of?no use to me. No matter how tight to the blade is too the?insert there is always cutoffs that will jamb and create issues. I've got 2 nicks in my slider because of extreme blade deflection cause?by ZCI. The howling?from the balde they can create is another issue. Sorry for the negative comments about ZCI but reality is such.

On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 11:10 AM Ramon Valdez <valdezfinefurniture@...> wrote:

Hey Steve
I'm glad you figured out how to cut and extend the saw kerf...your way is a good solution.? The reason I didn't cut saw kerfs to begin with is because...after talking with a Felder/Hammer rep, he suggested NOT to cut the kerfs.? He stated that they can be in slightly different locations latterly (or left & right).? Factory ZCI's are never sold with a saw blade kerf. ? So, that's when I decided to make the "how to" video that shows how I safely created the kerf on mine and started supplying the two wood screws.?

It's interesting that your slider part has to be rearward to install the insert.? Mine must be forward...so this tells me that there are some slight differences with the machines.? As far as the fitment of the insert, I only had one other report (besides yours) related to that slight adjustment that needed to be made for proper fitment.? I've since adjusted my jigs to make the accommodations.? Strange thing is...the inserts fit my K-3 with or without that modification. ?

?And yes, the tiny 4mm sliver that is created to the left of the factory ZCI and their regular insert is weak.? Mine broke after only two days!? I knew there had to be a better way.? I'm super pleased with my version.? Especially when cutting small parts. ?

Anyway, thanks a ton for your support!? Ramon

--

John Kee
JMK Services

image.jpg

IMG_2380-2.jpg

Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem #hammer

#108339

Didn't know those caps came off... thanks, will report back!

Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem #hammer

#108338

开云体育

I would pry the cap off and see if the contacts have welded themselves closed. ?If so, open them and clean them up a bit.

Steve

Show quoted text

On Jul 31, 2020, at 4:42 PM, sam via groups.io <sam@...> wrote:

?So - not sure how reliable this test is as it's done on an installed component but, I've found that one of the relays appears to be closed, whereas the other is open. I'm relatively sure the diagram on these relays indicates "normally open" so.

Should I remove the relay that appears to be closed and is potentially faulty to test on its own, or would I be safe in assuming that is the problem?

Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem #hammer

#108337
Edited

So - not sure how reliable this test is as it's done on an installed component but, I've found that one of the relays appears to be closed, whereas the other is open. I'm relatively sure the diagram on these relays indicates "normally open" so.

Should I remove the relay that appears to be closed and is potentially faulty to test on its own, or would I be safe in assuming that is the problem?

And thanks for that Davy - learning loads here hah! Will move onto thyristors after the above methinks..