Re: Attaching Aigner Pressure Module to Xroll P profile
Hi Imran
Felder makes an p channel adapter that may help. I order a couple from my Felder sales guy. Around $50 each plus shipping.
Thanks,
Chris Perren
512-415-6951
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 13, 2020, at 9:28 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?I did electronic search on survival guide for Aigner and only came up with distometer. I know David Best has machined the p coupling (may be two of them) to accept the Flat bar but are there any other solutions?
Thanks,
Imran
|
Attaching Aigner Pressure Module to Xroll P profile
I did electronic search on survival guide for Aigner and only came up with distometer. I know David Best has machined the p coupling (may be two of them) to accept the Flat bar but are there any other solutions?
Thanks,
Imran
|
Re: Power drive option on saw
On my CF741 I have power drive for the shaper only. I have the hand wheel read outs for the table saw and have height set to the only thing that matters to me- dado. The angle readout on the handwheel is very accurate and moves
fast through the traverse with little effort. Same with height but a bit slower. I do like the shaper as I use that for joinery and the precision is nice and so far has been pretty repeatable. I need to spend more time with setting up measurements with spacer
rings and height readouts. Power drive on the shaper, at least, only is a DRO. I can¡¯t save cutterheads and have them move or get DRO on a cutterhead basis. I can zero it out. ?It sure if it¡¯s the same on the table saw. If not, then you would have to zero
out at every blade change or just commit to one like I did with manual.
I do have an issue with the table saw though- the handwheel is not secured to the machine. It has a pin that goes through the shaft that inserts into a recess on the handwheel so if it comes loose and goes for a half or more rotation
it can throw me off. It returns nicely when connected again to the shaft in the correct position but requires a mini calibration, ie measuring the height with a height gauge and spinning the wheel to match that and slide it back on the shaft.
For my purposes, and I do quite a few dados- it¡¯s precise enough to get me to my required precision without much fuss. I find the biggest error is sheet warp that pulls it away from the table and changes the height of the groove.
Through cuts are obviously not an issue. Pretty easy to see if the blade is high enough or not, no measurements required.
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have the power drive option on my K700 shaper, my Exact 63 planer and electronic screen controls on my Kappa 40 table saw.? I can honestly say I don't know what I would do without them.? Not only is the accuracy spot on, but the repeatability is worth
all the money and then some.? Especially when you are in mid project and need to switch up the pieces you are making for cabinets or other work.
Now - when you get into computer screen control for the larger table saws - you're talking to a guy who has gone through some serious soul searching for making that decision.? But that's a story for another day.? The bottom line is that the power drive controls
are pretty low risk with respect to downstream failure and the associated expense.
Go for it.
|
Re: Power drive option on saw
I have the power drive option on my K700 shaper, my Exact 63 planer and electronic screen controls on my Kappa 40 table saw.? I can honestly say I don't know what I would do without them.? Not only is the accuracy spot on, but the repeatability is worth all the money and then some.? Especially when you are in mid project and need to switch up the pieces you are making for cabinets or other work.
Now - when you get into computer screen control for the larger table saws - you're talking to a guy who has gone through some serious soul searching for making that decision.? But that's a story for another day.? The bottom line is that the power drive controls are pretty low risk with respect to downstream failure and the associated expense.
Go for it.
|
Re: Power drive option on saw
Hi Mark:
I can speak to your questions in relation to my Kappa 400. It does hold its calibration. Amazingly so. These power options increase my productivity, and put a smile on my face. I do have to recalibrate after sharpening a blade.?
Real world examples. I measure the required depth for a groove, and my saw will cut that groove to 0.1mm. It works; no test cut and no checking.?
If I¡¯m cutting a bunch of shortish lengths from long stock (E.g. 200mm), I can use the rip fence as a bump stop, then as the long length gets so short that they no longer register against the cross cut fence, I can rotate the last piece, say 275mm, and use my digital crosscut stop (set at 200mm) to cut the last piece, with 75mm waste. I marvel that the pieces cut using the rip fence as a bump stop and the last piece cut with my digital stop, are all the same length. To me, that¡¯s serious proof that my machine holds calibration. Could I achieve the same accuracy without all the digital that could break? For sure.
I can choose 44.8, 45, 45.1 ?(or whatever), if I want to make certain that an inside or outside mitre is tight. I do not, nor need to, check the angles. I like that a lot.?
Is it worth the cost? That¡¯s subjective. But what is objective is the fact that my Kappa 400 X-motion does hold calibration, year after year. My Profil 45Z x-motion does NOT hold calibration. Just so you know.?
Finally, on longevity, my 2007 Dual 51 with digi-drive has been used in a semi-professional to full professional level for all these years with zero downtime. The digital controls (at least for that era and type of machine) are very robust.?
Good luck with your investigations, and decisions.?
Warm regards, Lucky
Dr David Luckensmeyer Business Manager Luckensmeyer Medical Pty Ltd melissaluckensmeyer.com.au
and
Designer and Woodworker Luckensmeyer Pty Ltd M: 0413 013 115 luckensmeyer.com.au
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 14 Jun 2020, at 1:21 am, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Question, how great is the full power drive option on a saw, say k700 or k900? Worth the money? I could see the benefit of dialing in an angle other than 90deg or 45deg quickly and dialing in a specific height for a dado, trench, shoulder etc. does it hold it settings over time? Assuming I have it all calibrated can it always be trusted? Or would I find myself checking it on a regular basis for accuracy??
|
Thank you for the quick replies and info.?
Brian
|
What Grease to use for Saw Height/Elevation Guide
K975 manual says to grease the saw height guide every 40 hrs or monthly. It
does not mention/recommend a grease type. I have grease for the shaper
spindle in the gun. I forget what it is but it was recommended here and I
got it from NAPA store. Is it okay to use for the saw height?
Imran
|
Around Madison wi a re wind 1/4 or 5 hp is 500.00 I would change bearings also! Mac,,, Designing and building for 47 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 13, 2020, at 12:29 PM, Brian-Kelly Cosgrove via groups.io <bkjncoz@...> wrote:
?Hi,
I have been a member for several years but rarely post, usually on every day however, observing threads. I have a 2012 F700z, single phase. Yesterday, while operating the machine, I starting to smell burning coming from inside. I shut down the machine, which appeared to still be operating fine except for the smell. This morning, I went out to begin investigating. I turned on the machine and ran it for about 30 seconds. I could immediately begin to smell burning, however, today it was obvious that the spindle wasn¡¯t spinning at normal speed. I pulled off the back panel and it is pretty clear that the smell was originating at the motor. The motor was also extremely hot, which surprised me because it only ran for 30 seconds or so. I pulled the motor and have it out of the machine. Does it sound like the motor is ruined or is it repairable? ?If repairable, is it something that a good motor repair shop can handle or will I have to get it to Felder? ?Thanks for reading
Brian Cosgrove?
|
It¡¯s a standard motor, so any motor repair shop should be able to handle it. It does have external capacitors though, so I would have those checked as well.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 13, 2020, at 10:28 AM, Brian-Kelly Cosgrove via < bkjncoz@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]
[Reason: Added text]
Hi,
I have been a member for several years but rarely post, usually on every day however, observing threads. I have a 2012 F700z, single phase. Yesterday, while operating the machine, I starting to smell burning coming from inside. I shut down the machine, which appeared to still be operating fine except for the smell. This morning, I went out to begin investigating. I turned on the machine and ran it for about 30 seconds. I could immediately begin to smell burning, however, today it was obvious that the spindle wasn¡¯t spinning at normal speed. I pulled off the back panel and it is pretty clear that the smell was originating at the motor. The motor was also extremely hot, which surprised me because it only ran for 30 seconds or so. I pulled the motor and have it out of the machine. Does it sound like the motor is ruined or is it repairable? ?If repairable, is it something that a good motor repair shop can handle or will I have to get it to Felder? ?Also, I do have a photo of the motor plate, but don¡¯t know how to add it. Thanks for reading Brian Cosgrove
|
Hi,
I have been a member for several years but rarely post, usually on every day however, observing threads. I have a 2012 F700z, single phase. Yesterday, while operating the machine, I starting to smell burning coming from inside. I shut down the machine, which appeared to still be operating fine except for the smell. This morning, I went out to begin investigating. I turned on the machine and ran it for about 30 seconds. I could immediately begin to smell burning, however, today it was obvious that the spindle wasn¡¯t spinning at normal speed. I pulled off the back panel and it is pretty clear that the smell was originating at the motor. The motor was also extremely hot, which surprised me because it only ran for 30 seconds or so. I pulled the motor and have it out of the machine. Does it sound like the motor is ruined or is it repairable? ?If repairable, is it something that a good motor repair shop can handle or will I have to get it to Felder? ?Also, I do have a photo of the motor plate, but don¡¯t know how to add it. Thanks for reading Brian Cosgrove
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 12, 2020, at 8:57 AM, Randy Child via groups.io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?Anyone interested in buying this hold down clamp? I got the Airtight clamps from Mac and no longer need this clamp. $125 shipped.. ( US only) Send me a PM if interested..
<20200611_093251.jpg> <20200611_093255.jpg>
|
Power drive option on saw
Question, how great is the full power drive option on a saw, say k700 or k900? Worth the money? I could see the benefit of dialing in an angle other than 90deg or 45deg quickly and dialing in a specific height for a dado, trench, shoulder etc. does it hold it settings over time? Assuming I have it all calibrated can it always be trusted? Or would I find myself checking it on a regular basis for accuracy??
|
CF731s for sale in Mesa, AZ
|
Anyone interested in buying this hold down clamp? I got the Airtight clamps from Mac and no longer need this clamp. $125 shipped.. ( US only) Send me a PM if interested..
|
OK, I understand better now. Does Nordfab make a 30? ell? Put a 45 and 30 together at the wall to ceiling by the DC, that¡¯s within 1? of your 106? (16? more than 90). Do a fitting close to the beam with double Y and 45¡¯s to get the horizontal run headed each direction along the beam. After that fitting you hook on a 30? ell and go down the other slope to the opposite wall, where again a 45 and 30 should get you vertical again.
You might have to run a short section of horizontal pipe across the top of your AC spiral pipe or slightly drop the pipe from following the ceiling perfectly at the centers to clear that beam. Most likely if you did the bends close to the sidewalls at 30? and dropped the run gradually along the ceiling it would just clear the I-beam, so all you would need is maybe a 3-4¡± spacer on the upper most piece of unistrut where it¡¯s close to the lights anyway.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Here are a few pics of the mess.? The pipe will go up from the right side of the pics, follow the ceiling until a horizontal can clear the HVAC duct and go to the other side.? A branch will run each way along the left side of the I-Beam to the far wall where the RAS is, to the jointer and planer location, and then back the other way to the sander. Another branch will follow the ceiling back down the other side to the saw/shaper and to other machines on? that side of the room.? The angle from the wall to the ceiling is 106 degrees. ? I can use a standard 90 at the collector and not have the vertical pipe be plumb.? My engineer and builder OCD eye would not love that but I could live with it. Where I transition from going vertical to horizontal near the ridge beam, I need slight bend (16 degrees) on each end.? I played with double elbows to get custom angles but that changes the pipe angles to the ceiling and it looks like the cost of two standard elbows and clamps is more than a custom angle and clamps. ? <image001.jpg><image002.jpg><image003.jpg> ? ? I am going to do a quick sketchup.? It¡¯s not like that, the way it will be laid out.? Because of overhead doors and the footprint of the shop the collector is on one side next to a 9 ft wall and I need to run the duct up the vault to the ridge.? Once there I can use standard parts.? The roof plane ?is 108.4 degrees to the side wall. Once running up the roof plane I need to get back to horizontal below the ridge beam which extends about 10¡± below the ceiling. ? ? I assume you are running the main branch down the middle at the peak of the ceiling? Standard Y¡¯s should get the branch running down the slope of the ceiling, it¡¯s when you want to come off the slop and have a vertical run of pipe that the issue comes in, correct? Seems like a combination of two 45¡¯s or 90¡¯s at that point will get you any angle you want without resorting to custom fittings. I use spiral pipe and long sweep fittings, and have been known to cut one where I need to get whatever angle I want, then you rivet the short Nordfab rolled edge piece so you can clamp it to your other parts. I have a lot of Nordfab ¡°joiner¡± pieces adapted to my spiral pipe to act like quick changes. ? ? My shop has 9 foot sidewalls and vaulted ceilings. I am going to run the Nordfab duct up on the ceiling to maximize clearance overhead.? I have 3 options as I see it:
1) order custom elbows.? slickest solution but they need to be fabricated pretty accurately as the Nordfab does not seem to have any forgiveness once clamped.
2) do flex pipe for the custom angles.? The Nordfab rigid metal flex pipe looks perfect.? I need 7" and the min radius is quite large at 50" but that's not really an issue for me.? with this approach it would fit well for sure.
3) Do spiral wire poly hose.?
Thoughts, and has anyone dealt with custom angles?? Accuracy of Nordfab custom parts?
?
|
Hi Joe,? No shag carpet o well. Custom elbows , two barrels under The cyclone if you have the height. Mac,,, Designing and building for 47 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 11, 2020, at 10:00 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:
?
Here are a few pics of the mess.? The pipe will go up from the right side of the pics, follow the ceiling until a horizontal can clear the HVAC duct
and go to the other side.? A branch will run each way along the left side of the I-Beam to the far wall where the RAS is, to the jointer and planer location, and then back the other way to the sander. Another branch will follow the ceiling back down the other
side to the saw/shaper and to other machines on? that side of the room.? The angle from the wall to the ceiling is 106 degrees.
?
I can use a standard 90 at the collector and not have the vertical pipe be plumb.? My engineer and builder OCD eye would not love that but I could live
with it. Where I transition from going vertical to horizontal near the ridge beam, I need slight bend (16 degrees) on each end.? I played with double elbows to get custom angles but that changes the pipe angles to the ceiling and it looks like the cost of
two standard elbows and clamps is more than a custom angle and clamps.
?
<image001.jpg> <image002.jpg> <image003.jpg>
?
?
I am going to do a quick sketchup.? It¡¯s not like that, the way it will be laid out.? Because of overhead doors and the footprint of the shop the collector
is on one side next to a 9 ft wall and I need to run the duct up the vault to the ridge.? Once there I can use standard parts.? The roof plane ?is 108.4 degrees to the side wall. Once running up the roof plane I need to get back to horizontal below the ridge
beam which extends about 10¡± below the ceiling.
?
?
I assume you are running the main branch down the middle at the peak of the ceiling? Standard Y¡¯s should get the branch running down the slope of the ceiling, it¡¯s when you want to come off the slop and have a vertical run of pipe that
the issue comes in, correct? Seems like a combination of two 45¡¯s or 90¡¯s at that point will get you any angle you want without resorting to custom fittings. I use spiral pipe and long sweep fittings, and have been known to cut one where I need to get whatever
angle I want, then you rivet the short Nordfab rolled edge piece so you can clamp it to your other parts.
I have a lot of Nordfab ¡°joiner¡± pieces adapted to my spiral pipe to act like quick changes.
?
?
My shop has 9 foot sidewalls and vaulted ceilings. I am going to run the Nordfab duct up on the ceiling to maximize clearance overhead.? I have 3 options as I see it:
1) order custom elbows.? slickest solution but they need to be fabricated pretty accurately as the Nordfab does not seem to have any forgiveness once clamped.
2) do flex pipe for the custom angles.? The Nordfab rigid metal flex pipe looks perfect.? I need 7" and the min radius is quite large at 50" but that's not really an issue for me.? with this approach it would fit well for sure.
3) Do spiral wire poly hose.?
Thoughts, and has anyone dealt with custom angles?? Accuracy of Nordfab custom parts?
?
|
Re: Need help with shaper spindle
On 6/10/20 12:53 PM, Dennis Oakley via
groups.io wrote:
How do I get the ring off the spindle.?
If it is not hardened steel? try? heat.? If
it is? try less heat.? but? first apply? some wintergreen oil
(not the synthetic stuff). ? that's the old school aircraft
mechanics? penetrate of choice? if you can't get that use any
pentrant? I like SeaFoam.
Then smack the shit out of it with a wood or
rubber mallet.?
Failing that go to a garage? they will have
a hydraulic press.?
|
Here are a few pics of the mess.? The pipe will go up from the right side of the pics, follow the ceiling until a horizontal can clear the HVAC duct
and go to the other side.? A branch will run each way along the left side of the I-Beam to the far wall where the RAS is, to the jointer and planer location, and then back the other way to the sander. Another branch will follow the ceiling back down the other
side to the saw/shaper and to other machines on? that side of the room.? The angle from the wall to the ceiling is 106 degrees.
?
I can use a standard 90 at the collector and not have the vertical pipe be plumb.? My engineer and builder OCD eye would not love that but I could live
with it. Where I transition from going vertical to horizontal near the ridge beam, I need slight bend (16 degrees) on each end.? I played with double elbows to get custom angles but that changes the pipe angles to the ceiling and it looks like the cost of
two standard elbows and clamps is more than a custom angle and clamps.
?
  
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Joe Jensen
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 4:20 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Nordfab rigid metal flex duct question #dustcollection
?
I am going to do a quick sketchup.? It¡¯s not like that, the way it will be laid out.? Because of overhead doors and the footprint of the shop the collector
is on one side next to a 9 ft wall and I need to run the duct up the vault to the ridge.? Once there I can use standard parts.? The roof plane ?is 108.4 degrees to the side wall. Once running up the roof plane I need to get back to horizontal below the ridge
beam which extends about 10¡± below the ceiling.
?
?
I assume you are running the main branch down the middle at the peak of the ceiling? Standard Y¡¯s should get the branch running down the slope of the ceiling, it¡¯s when you want to come off the slop and have a vertical run of pipe that
the issue comes in, correct? Seems like a combination of two 45¡¯s or 90¡¯s at that point will get you any angle you want without resorting to custom fittings. I use spiral pipe and long sweep fittings, and have been known to cut one where I need to get whatever
angle I want, then you rivet the short Nordfab rolled edge piece so you can clamp it to your other parts.
I have a lot of Nordfab ¡°joiner¡± pieces adapted to my spiral pipe to act like quick changes.
?
?
My shop has 9 foot sidewalls and vaulted ceilings. I am going to run the Nordfab duct up on the ceiling to maximize clearance overhead.? I have 3 options as I see it:
1) order custom elbows.? slickest solution but they need to be fabricated pretty accurately as the Nordfab does not seem to have any forgiveness once clamped.
2) do flex pipe for the custom angles.? The Nordfab rigid metal flex pipe looks perfect.? I need 7" and the min radius is quite large at 50" but that's not really an issue for me.? with this approach it would fit well for sure.
3) Do spiral wire poly hose.?
Thoughts, and has anyone dealt with custom angles?? Accuracy of Nordfab custom parts?
?
|
Good idea, might have to try that.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 11, 2020, at 4:57 PM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
On 6/10/20 8:55 PM, Brian Lamb wrote:
Detail of clamp, I use the knurled knob on the blast gate to hold the
clamp ring on the drop so I don¡¯t have to fumble with that while I¡¯m
attaching the lower portion.
I have one connection that I swap out with another. I understand the
knurled knob you have there. My way to skin that cat was to use
pop-rivets to put a ring of sheet metal inside one of the components so
they slip together and the added material holds it all together while I
mess with the damn clamp.
|
On 6/10/20 8:55 PM, Brian Lamb wrote: Detail of clamp, I use the knurled knob on the blast gate to hold the
clamp ring on the drop so I don¡¯t have to fumble with that while I¡¯m
attaching the lower portion. I have one connection that I swap out with another.? I understand the? knurled knob? you have there.? My? way to skin that cat was to use pop-rivets to put a ring of sheet metal inside one of the components so they slip together and the? added material holds it all together while I mess with the damn clamp.
|
imran
David Luckensmeyer
Joe Jensen