Need help with shaper spindle
I purchased a C-31 comfort this year. ?Felder does not sell cutters to fit the 1.25” spindle they had installed so I purchased some from Rangate. ?I used it for the second time a few days ago to cut some tenons. ?Putting the rings and cutter on the spindle took a little effort as the fit was tight, which seemed right to me. ?However taking them off proved to be a big problem. ?The spindle rings above the cutter came off with just a little difficulty. ?However, the cutter head was stuck and I could not take it off with my hands. ?I ended up putting the cutter between two blocks of wood so that the spindle dangled below. ?I took a board on top of the spindle ?and used a hammer and was able to pound the spindle out of the cutter. ?The bottom ring however will not come out. ?It was sitting flush on the spindle so it does not seem to be at an angle. ?It travels about 1/4” up the spindle before it becomes stuck. ? So I decided to take some measurements. ?Using a Mitutoyo ?micrometer with a bubble level laid on top ?to make sure the micrometer was?level? I measured 1.2595” to 1.26” diameter. ?I sent the pictures off to Felder but they basically said it was impossible for the diameter to be that wide.
My problem still remains: ?How do I get the ring off the spindle. ?Are there any suggestions?
Thanks ?
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Re: amazon hydraulic press
so? Designing and building for 47 years
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On Jun 10, 2020, at 7:43 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?
Final
Details for Order #114-3653174-6737810Order Placed:
June
4, 2020 Amazon.com order number: 114-3653174-6737810
Order
Total: $292.07
NOT
Shipped
on June 7, 2020I
BIG
RED T51201 Torin Steel H-Frame Hydraulic Garage/Shop Floor
Press with
StampingPlates, 12 Ton (24,000 lb) Capacity,
1Z69662Y0303089650
UPS:?
The sender
created a label for your shipment. When we receive it, we’ll
show additional scans and the delivery date. provides delivery
alerts and is the only way you can make delivery changes while
the package is in transit.
If it has been several days since this scan was created, contact
the sender to confirm the package was picked up. Our
representatives are unable to provide more information at this
time.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
|
Re: amazon hydraulic press IGNORE THIS IT WAS WRONGLY ADDRESSESD
On 6/10/20 8:43 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. wrote: inal Details for Order #114-3653174-6737810O
|
Final
Details for Order #114-3653174-6737810Order Placed:
June
4, 2020 Amazon.com order number: 114-3653174-6737810
Order
Total: $292.07
NOT
Shipped
on June 7, 2020I
BIG
RED T51201 Torin Steel H-Frame Hydraulic Garage/Shop Floor
Press with
StampingPlates, 12 Ton (24,000 lb) Capacity,
1Z69662Y0303089650
UPS:?
The sender
created a label for your shipment. When we receive it, we’ll
show additional scans and the delivery date. provides delivery
alerts and is the only way you can make delivery changes while
the package is in transit.
If it has been several days since this scan was created, contact
the sender to confirm the package was picked up. Our
representatives are unable to provide more information at this
time.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
|
I understand. The only reason I thought it might be correct is my machine is variable speed with a factory VFD and it has a soft start.? Soft start
will reduce or eliminate the startup current spike.
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of larry@...
Sent: Saturday, June 6, 2020 5:41 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Electrical breaker questions #constructionmethods #wiring
?
On Sat, Jun 6, 2020 at 10:28 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. wrote:
My?? electrician? who? has to protect and? maintain his license agrees.
20 Amps may be enough for? steady? no load? running of the motor, but on
start up? it's drawing something a lot closer to 30
Start up current can be many times more than the running current (and the breaker amp rating) but circuit breakers are designed to allow this necessary current so they don't trip every time the motor starts.
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I was a timber merchant in Ireland for twenty five years.
It all comes down to supply and demand. Hardwoods can be hand selected if you are willing to take the time and travel then turn and pull your own boards. The problems start when the supply is dwindling and there is no fresh stock, it becomes a sellers market. In Europe ?generally, the hardwood supplier has no one he can return it to, as it was shipped into him and bought on irrevocable letter credit i.e. your supplier pays for it once it is loaded on the ship in the country of origin.Therefore he will keep shoving it out there until somebody accepts it.
It can be further complicated with ?kiln drying too quickly to get it out on the market.
The softwood mills who produce planned timber for the smaller guys to resell, generally will make a monthly allowance for twists and warps, but they never want it back, the seller gets a credit, then discounts it out to cash customers.
Definitely, the more noise that you make, the better ?quality you will receive.
Trevor Lusty
Ireland
?
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What I need to do, is extend the plates mounted on the arms, further apart.? That will give more room for the hose and not have it pinch as it shows. I was experimenting at the time I did all this and did not have a hose to test with.? There is no sag at all with the boom arm I have now and it's holding the dust hose, a festool cord with an extension cord for it and a solo extension cord.? I also had an air hose in it as well.. no sag at all
On Sunday, June 7, 2020, 06:37:18 PM PDT, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I don’t know that one style bearing is better than the other. This is a low speed operation that isn’t really meant for either type of bearing. Did either one sag less than the other? Kind of hard to quantify that with one being wood the other being metal. So just go with whatever is easiest and simplest to do.
The knuckle using wood is wider than what Randy made with aluminum. ?I did not yet see how the hose would work with the wood version yet. ?That is next as I will make "real" arms with pipe and hose now that I have the knuckle worked out. ?In addition to the wood version having a wider knuckle, I extended the top and bottom pieces out farther and that gives more room for the hose. ?In Randy's version if you will note, the gears are cut. ?I was planning to not only have the arms back a bit farther on the extensions that attach to the top plates, but also notch out a little on 1 side of each arm (as shown in the black lines) so the flex hose can be a bit longer so that ?the flex and compression will not be over such a short distance. ?Once I try that out, I will see if I need wider top-bottom plates.
Any thoughts from anyone on the 2 options for the bearings?
<Center flex copy.jpg>
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I don’t know that one style bearing is better than the other. This is a low speed operation that isn’t really meant for either type of bearing. Did either one sag less than the other? Kind of hard to quantify that with one being wood the other being metal. So just go with whatever is easiest and simplest to do.
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Show quoted text
The knuckle using wood is wider than what Randy made with aluminum. ?I did not yet see how the hose would work with the wood version yet. ?That is next as I will make "real" arms with pipe and hose now that I have the knuckle worked out. ?In addition to the wood version having a wider knuckle, I extended the top and bottom pieces out farther and that gives more room for the hose. ?In Randy's version if you will note, the gears are cut. ?I was planning to not only have the arms back a bit farther on the extensions that attach to the top plates, but also notch out a little on 1 side of each arm (as shown in the black lines) so the flex hose can be a bit longer so that ?the flex and compression will not be over such a short distance. ?Once I try that out, I will see if I need wider top-bottom plates.
Any thoughts from anyone on the 2 options for the bearings?
<Center flex copy.jpg>
|
The knuckle using wood is wider than what Randy made with aluminum. ?I did not yet see how the hose would work with the wood version yet. ?That is next as I will make "real" arms with pipe and hose now that I have the knuckle worked out. ?In addition to the wood version having a wider knuckle, I extended the top and bottom pieces out farther and that gives more room for the hose. ?In Randy's version if you will note, the gears are cut. ?I was planning to not only have the arms back a bit farther on the extensions that attach to the top plates, but also notch out a little on 1 side of each arm (as shown in the black lines) so the flex hose can be a bit longer so that ?the flex and compression will not be over such a short distance. ?Once I try that out, I will see if I need wider top-bottom plates.
Any thoughts from anyone on the 2 options for the bearings?
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Re: sliding compound miter saw for base and crown
I was going to go cordless but couldn’t justify the extra dollars, I tried really hard to, but failed?. Hard to believe the first job it had was in a house with no mains power,, but the generator did the job Eric -- Eric J. Smith? Trading as W.G. Joinery ABN# 24 079 587 520 03 5784 9258 0411 264 272
PO BOX 353? Broadford Victoria
3658 Australia
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You need to make the knuckle wider so the bolts don't pinch the hose at full bend.
=============== Brian Lamb blamb11@... Phoenix, AZ ===============
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I experimented using wood instead of aluminum for the middle pivot point. ?It was very to make and took very little time. ?The hard part was first figuring out how to make it and what parts to get. ?Enclosed are pictures. ?I took some 3/4 plywood and made
2 arms 6x3 inches to attach to the middle pivot to test it. ?Connected to the end of each arm are 1 inch thick maple, 14 inches long and 3 inches wide with 1 end rounded. ?The top and bottom plates are 1 inch thick maple 9x5.5 inches with the corners chamfered.
?It was that and the hardware.
The hardware was the aluminum gears (10mm bore), and the tapered thrust bearings (OD 2 inches)
Also, I had 12 inch long 3/8 hex bolts from Ace (and washers and nuts), some M10 bolts and lock nuts and washers, and some aluminum sleeves. ?I just found a nice option from Home Depot (1/2 inch aluminum round tube that comes in 36 inch lengths).
Assembly was very easy. ?I started by drilling holes in the top and bottom plates using the meshed gears to determine the proper distance between the holes. ?There is a hole around 1/4 inch deep make with a 2 inch Forstner bit and then a through hole for the
10mm bolt in the center (can be make with 25/64 or 13/32 drill bits). ?With one hole done, 1 gear can be centered over the hole using a drill bit or a bolt, and with the gears meshed, you can mark the center of the other hole. ?I place d brad point drill bit
and gently tap to mark the center. ?In the end, the top and bottom plates both have the 2 shallow 2 inch holes and the through hole in the middle. ?2 more holes are drilled into the top and bottom plates as shown for the stabilizer blots and sleeves.
Then, I take 2 of the 4 pieces of aluminum with the rounded end on 1 side with a hole drilled in the center as shown in the picture, and mount the gears. ?To do that, you drill 1-2 holes in the gear, center it along the hole using a bolt, and screw it in place.
?The 4 pieces of 3 inch wide maple are then screwed to the 6x3 arms. ?Now time to assemble
To assemble, the bearings are seated in the recess of the top and bottom plates and face the inside-middle. ?Then the plates are attached to the arms using the M10 bolts, washers and lock nuts. ?After that, you measure the distance between the bottom of the
top plate and the top of the bottom plate and cut the round tubes to that length (or a bit shorter to make room for a washer above and below the tube. ?Then thread the 3/8 12 inch long bolt with the tubes and that will do it.
It was tested and held up well with 20lb barbell plates placed on 1 end. ?It swiveled nicely from 1 side to the other without too much resistance and without ever moving by itself. ?Seemed to have the right amount of damper but perhaps there is a modification
to insure that is the case if I just got lucky.?
Anyhow, I think the Aluminum is way cooler and stronger. ?I would be curious what some of you think about the bearing options and what is the best design. ?For the aluminum middle section Randy made in aluminum, the bearings were seated in the top and bottom
places. ?In my wood version, wider OD bearings were sandwiched between the arms and the plates. ?To do that in aluminum would be a bit tricky. ?I inquired and was told with a very slow speed and oil, with the work piece secured, I could use a 2 inch carbide
forstner bit to drill those holes, but certainly someone with CNC would make a nicer middle section.
I think it is nice that people wanting a fully articulating boom arm to be able to easily make one out of wood and a few parts from Ace or Home depot and online sources. ?I also think it would be nice for people wanting a very nice milled middle section that
is an upgrade from wood to be able to get this so they just make the arms and attach the middle section.
I am curious now that I finished the prototype in wood, if made by a CNC out of aluminum, what would be the best - bearing within the top and bottom plates, or a wider bearing as shown?
-- Brian Lamb blamb11@...? ?
|
Re: sliding compound miter saw for base and crown
On?6/6/20 7:51 PM, Bob Halley wrote:
Gentlemen,? I
am in the market for a sliding compound miter saw for use in
cutting baseboard and crown molding.? I have seen this type of
machine discussed in the forum many times, I tried to search the
hashtags to locate the relevant discussion, but had no luck.? I
would very much appreciate any guidance which the group might be
willing to share as to how I might find those messages, and also,
any information on the best saw for this purpose.? Thanks in
advance for your help.
Another vote for the Makita DUAL compound sliding miter saws here. I've had both 10" and 12" and kept the 10" because it's a bit lighter/smaller, and I seldom needed the 12" cutting depth with what I do. I've actually been waiting for Makita to introduce to America the 18 volt cordless 7 1/2" model they offer in Japan. The US version bevels 45* or so one way, but 5* (or 7*, I forget) the other direction. The home market gets a saw with the same capacity both ways. These saws will still do most of the needed trim cutting, while being much lighter, smaller and more portable. If I had a major trim only job coming up, I might buy the Milwaukee cordless model, though I'd then have to invest in their batteries and chargers, and I'm already full on Makita 18v cordless. I've tried two of the same Milwaukee cordless models, one seemed fairly tight, the other felt a bit loose. Neither approached the feeling and accuracy my Makita, but I might be able to fine tune them to acceptable peeformance. I'll wait for the Home Market Makita cordless model, unless....
|
Some more pictures of the initial aluminum version in Randy's shop on the above thread. ?
|
I experimented using wood instead of aluminum for the middle pivot point. ?It was very to make and took very little time. ?The hard part was first figuring out how to make it and what parts to get. ?Enclosed are pictures. ?I took some 3/4 plywood and made 2 arms 6x3 inches to attach to the middle pivot to test it. ?Connected to the end of each arm are 1 inch thick maple, 14 inches long and 3 inches wide with 1 end rounded. ?The top and bottom plates are 1 inch thick maple 9x5.5 inches with the corners chamfered. ?It was that and the hardware.
The hardware was the aluminum gears (10mm bore), and the tapered thrust bearings (OD 2 inches)
Also, I had 12 inch long 3/8 hex bolts from Ace (and washers and nuts), some M10 bolts and lock nuts and washers, and some aluminum sleeves. ?I just found a nice option from Home Depot (1/2 inch aluminum round tube that comes in 36 inch lengths).
Assembly was very easy. ?I started by drilling holes in the top and bottom plates using the meshed gears to determine the proper distance between the holes. ?There is a hole around 1/4 inch deep make with a 2 inch Forstner bit and then a through hole for the 10mm bolt in the center (can be make with 25/64 or 13/32 drill bits). ?With one hole done, 1 gear can be centered over the hole using a drill bit or a bolt, and with the gears meshed, you can mark the center of the other hole. ?I place d brad point drill bit and gently tap to mark the center. ?In the end, the top and bottom plates both have the 2 shallow 2 inch holes and the through hole in the middle. ?2 more holes are drilled into the top and bottom plates as shown for the stabilizer blots and sleeves.
Then, I take 2 of the 4 pieces of aluminum with the rounded end on 1 side with a hole drilled in the center as shown in the picture, and mount the gears. ?To do that, you drill 1-2 holes in the gear, center it along the hole using a bolt, and screw it in place. ?The 4 pieces of 3 inch wide maple are then screwed to the 6x3 arms. ?Now time to assemble
To assemble, the bearings are seated in the recess of the top and bottom plates and face the inside-middle. ?Then the plates are attached to the arms using the M10 bolts, washers and lock nuts. ?After that, you measure the distance between the bottom of the top plate and the top of the bottom plate and cut the round tubes to that length (or a bit shorter to make room for a washer above and below the tube. ?Then thread the 3/8 12 inch long bolt with the tubes and that will do it.
It was tested and held up well with 20lb barbell plates placed on 1 end. ?It swiveled nicely from 1 side to the other without too much resistance and without ever moving by itself. ?Seemed to have the right amount of damper but perhaps there is a modification to insure that is the case if I just got lucky.?
Anyhow, I think the Aluminum is way cooler and stronger. ?I would be curious what some of you think about the bearing options and what is the best design. ?For the aluminum middle section Randy made in aluminum, the bearings were seated in the top and bottom places. ?In my wood version, wider OD bearings were sandwiched between the arms and the plates. ?To do that in aluminum would be a bit tricky. ?I inquired and was told with a very slow speed and oil, with the work piece secured, I could use a 2 inch carbide forstner bit to drill those holes, but certainly someone with CNC would make a nicer middle section.
I think it is nice that people wanting a fully articulating boom arm to be able to easily make one out of wood and a few parts from Ace or Home depot and online sources. ?I also think it would be nice for people wanting a very nice milled middle section that is an upgrade from wood to be able to get this so they just make the arms and attach the middle section.
I am curious now that I finished the prototype in wood, if made by a CNC out of aluminum, what would be the best - bearing within the top and bottom plates, or a wider bearing as shown?
|
Re: sliding compound miter saw for base and crown
I have a Dewalt 780 12” SCMS. If I’m cutting construction grade lumber I use the standard Dewalt blades. If I’m cutting more finished type furniture, I switch out the blade for a Forrest blade. The cross cut is so smooth with that across end grain. ?Takes about a minute to switch blades, one tool, which is stored on the saw so you never lose it.
I have several Festool products, but the Kapex is probably the one I’ll never consider buying, just from the reports of it’s reliability for such an expensive tool.
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On Jun 7, 2020, at 8:28 AM, marty shultz < azmartys@...> wrote:
I’m going to send a mixed message on the Festool miter saw. I have one and I don’t think it’s worth the money. The saw is expensive and I rarely use many of its features that arguably justify its price. ?On the flip side, it does a good job of dust control and it’s very easy to use for crown.?
A friend of mine is a remodeler and a furniture maker. ?He does outstanding work. He hated Festool until he went on a job site with a friend for a few months who was using festool. He used to say “I can’t afford Festool and Festool is jest an expensive Fad” now he says “I can’t afford to not use Festool Because it saves me so much time”.
I also have Makita and I’m happy with their saws.?
If I was a contractor working on site I would have the Festool system because their tools Integrate real well with tracks and vacuums.
Good luck with your decision. On Jun 7, 2020, at 5:27 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?
Just about any saw? will do this job.? I have the Bosch? Glide
12"
? It is solid enough and? does? what
I've asked of it.??? Dust control is a bit of a sticky? issue.?
I've found that? boxing the whole thing in? is the only? best way.
All other approaches manage to ignore?? the angles.
Om 6/6/20 7:51 PM, Bob Halley wrote:
Gentlemen,? I
am in the market for a sliding compound miter saw for use in
cutting baseboard and crown molding.? I have seen this type of
machine discussed in the forum many times, I tried to search the
hashtags to locate the relevant discussion, but had no luck.? I
would very much appreciate any guidance which the group might be
willing to share as to how I might find those messages, and also,
any information on the best saw for this purpose.? Thanks in
advance for your help.
|
Re: sliding compound miter saw for base and crown
I’m going to send a mixed message on the Festool miter saw. I have one and I don’t think it’s worth the money. The saw is expensive and I rarely use many of its features that arguably justify its price. ?On the flip side, it does a good job of dust control and it’s very easy to use for crown.?
A friend of mine is a remodeler and a furniture maker. ?He does outstanding work. He hated Festool until he went on a job site with a friend for a few months who was using festool. He used to say “I can’t afford Festool and Festool is jest an expensive Fad” now he says “I can’t afford to not use Festool Because it saves me so much time”.
I also have Makita and I’m happy with their saws.?
If I was a contractor working on site I would have the Festool system because their tools Integrate real well with tracks and vacuums.
Good luck with your decision.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 7, 2020, at 5:27 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?
Just about any saw? will do this job.? I have the Bosch? Glide
12"
? It is solid enough and? does? what
I've asked of it.??? Dust control is a bit of a sticky? issue.?
I've found that? boxing the whole thing in? is the only? best way.
All other approaches manage to ignore?? the angles.
Om 6/6/20 7:51 PM, Bob Halley wrote:
Gentlemen,? I
am in the market for a sliding compound miter saw for use in
cutting baseboard and crown molding.? I have seen this type of
machine discussed in the forum many times, I tried to search the
hashtags to locate the relevant discussion, but had no luck.? I
would very much appreciate any guidance which the group might be
willing to share as to how I might find those messages, and also,
any information on the best saw for this purpose.? Thanks in
advance for your help.
|
Re: sliding compound miter saw for base and crown
Just about any saw? will do this job.? I have the Bosch? Glide
12"
? It is solid enough and? does? what
I've asked of it.??? Dust control is a bit of a sticky? issue.?
I've found that? boxing the whole thing in? is the only? best way.
All other approaches manage to ignore?? the angles.
Om 6/6/20 7:51 PM, Bob Halley wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Gentlemen,? I
am in the market for a sliding compound miter saw for use in
cutting baseboard and crown molding.? I have seen this type of
machine discussed in the forum many times, I tried to search the
hashtags to locate the relevant discussion, but had no luck.? I
would very much appreciate any guidance which the group might be
willing to share as to how I might find those messages, and also,
any information on the best saw for this purpose.? Thanks in
advance for your help.
|
Re: sliding compound miter saw for base and crown
Mac, That looks like a beauty of a machine, but hard to move around job sites.? The ?makita is definately a compromise. But makes me happy. Cheers, Eric -- Eric J. Smith? Trading as W.G. Joinery ABN# 24 079 587 520 03 5784 9258 0411 264 272
PO BOX 353? Broadford Victoria
3658 Australia
|
Re: sliding compound miter saw for base and crown
Graule Z85NS Radial Arm Crosscut SawDesigning and building for 47 years
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On Jun 6, 2020, at 9:01 PM, horans64 <w.g.joinery@...> wrote:
?
I recently purchased a Makita LS1219X 305mm (12") for an on site job. I’m very pleased with its accuracy, and ease of changing angles around quickly and the repeatability of them.? Good luck, Eric? -- Eric J. Smith? Trading as W.G. Joinery ABN# 24 079 587 520 03 5784 9258 0411 264 272
PO BOX 353? Broadford Victoria
3658 Australia
|
Re: sliding compound miter saw for base and crown
Edit, when I say good cuts I mean furniture level cuts. The makita got me about as close as one could get on a construction site tool...?
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On Jun 6, 2020, at 10:11 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? I have this one?
It’s a 10” that pretty much gets what a 12” can cut, although their 12” version might have more capacity than other 12” saws not sure.
It was pretty good out of the box but required a bit of tweaking to the rails to get the cut co-planer with the travel pretty much dead nuts now. i had the bosch 12” glide and could never get good cuts On Jun 6, 2020, at 10:01 PM, horans64 <w.g.joinery@...> wrote:
?
I recently purchased a Makita LS1219X 305mm (12") for an on site job. I’m very pleased with its accuracy, and ease of changing angles around quickly and the repeatability of them.? Good luck, Eric? -- Eric J. Smith? Trading as W.G. Joinery ABN# 24 079 587 520 03 5784 9258 0411 264 272
PO BOX 353? Broadford Victoria
3658 Australia
|
Joe Jensen
marty shultz