Re: KF 700 cutting a sheet of plywood in half
Our two KF700's are both the 31" rip versions, neither with an overarm guard. With the riving knife mounted guard, nothing prevents you from cross cutting a sheet in half other than ours being short sliders with the fence usually on the operator end of the slider.
I don't know what the Felder overarm guard mount looks like. However, the overarm on my Panhans saw has a horizontal tube mounted to the back of the saw chassis. The arm is movable or removable with just one kip lever on that horizontal tube. It has 49" rip capacity, but the guard is movable far enough to probably accommodate 60" if you needed it. It's a super simple clever design. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: KF 700 cutting a sheet of plywood in half
Mark,
My KF700 is a 2017 model. I ordered the 31" rip capacity model, cause the 49 would take too much space in the double car garage, I do not think the rip capacity is adjustable?on the 2017 model. Also,?
James
I don’t know what year your saw is or if the overhead guard setup is the same as mine which is a 2019 k700s but mine can be installed in the 49 or the 31 position, so if yours is the same and you had room you could reinstall it in the 49 position, took me and the tech less than an hour to install? Regards, Mark ? I have KF700 with overhead dust collection and 31” rip capacity.
No way I would remove the overhead arm dust collection. Felder technician told me it took him and a helper more than 2 hours to install it before delivery.
I would use track saw to cut the plywood in half if ever needed. If you do not have a track saw, this is a reason to have it.
James On Mon, Feb 24, 2020 at 4:20 PM < kumar@...> wrote:
I'm wondering if there is a way on the KF 700 to cut a piece of plywood in half with a 31 rip capacity unit. I realize the overhead dust collector would be in the way. It looks like that would be cumbersome to remove. But if it were removed, is there anything preventing one from cutting a plywood sheet in half using the crosscut fence on the slider?
If that is the case, it occurs to me that this might be a good argument for the standard dust collection blade guard system, since it would be easier to remove the tubing, or better yet the hose could be suspened above the saw. I know others using this machine with me will want to know if we can handle cutting plywood in half.
I guess the issues are 1) is how hard is it to remove the overarm dust collection? 2) is there anything else preventing having 38" stock to the right of the blade for a crosscut??
?
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Re: KF 700 cutting a sheet of plywood in half
I should have added that the overhead guard can be ordered to "fit" either rip capacity, but I am not sure if you ordered the 31" version you would be able to expand it to fit the larger rip capacity. I'd check with Felder tech support on that.?
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Re: KF 700 cutting a sheet of plywood in half
I have the 31" rip capacity and yes, the overhead guard would be in the way of you attempting to clear 48" right of blade. That is why I've been looking for a more custom solution w.r.t. the overhead guard, so that I can clear 48", if I need to.
My thought is the Felder overhead guard would limit you with this kind of cut since taking it off is not an every option. I would consider keeping the Euro Guard II setup or. buying a separate, such as the Grizzly, that sits on the floor and not bolted to the saw chassis. This gives you the most flexibility. That or fabricating a custom overhead arm, that clears 48".?
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Re: KF 700 cutting a sheet of plywood in half
I would?add to James's remark my first thought was that a track saw would?seem very cheap compared to modifying the overhead guard again....then I thought, you can probably crosscut until you hit the upright, pull back, flip the plywood, and cut again and get nearly through.
I have KF700 with overhead dust collection and 31” rip capacity.
No way I would remove the overhead arm dust collection. Felder technician told me it took him and a helper more than 2 hours to install it before delivery.
I would use track saw to cut the plywood in half if ever needed. If you do not have a track saw, this is a reason to have it.
James On Mon, Feb 24, 2020 at 4:20 PM < kumar@...> wrote:
I'm wondering if there is a way on the KF 700 to cut a piece of plywood in half with a 31 rip capacity unit. I realize the overhead dust collector would be in the way. It looks like that would be cumbersome to remove. But if it were removed, is there anything preventing one from cutting a plywood sheet in half using the crosscut fence on the slider?
If that is the case, it occurs to me that this might be a good argument for the standard dust collection blade guard system, since it would be easier to remove the tubing, or better yet the hose could be suspened above the saw. I know others using this machine with me will want to know if we can handle cutting plywood in half.
I guess the issues are 1) is how hard is it to remove the overarm dust collection? 2) is there anything else preventing having 38" stock to the right of the blade for a crosscut??
?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: KF 700 cutting a sheet of plywood in half
I don’t know what year your saw is or if the overhead guard setup is the same as mine which is a 2019 k700s but mine can be installed in the 49 or the 31 position, so if yours is the same and you had room you could reinstall it in the 49 position, took me and the tech less than an hour to install? Regards, Mark
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On Feb 24, 2020, at 5:33 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
? I have KF700 with overhead dust collection and 31” rip capacity.
No way I would remove the overhead arm dust collection. Felder technician told me it took him and a helper more than 2 hours to install it before delivery.
I would use track saw to cut the plywood in half if ever needed. If you do not have a track saw, this is a reason to have it.
James On Mon, Feb 24, 2020 at 4:20 PM < kumar@...> wrote:
I'm wondering if there is a way on the KF 700 to cut a piece of plywood in half with a 31 rip capacity unit. I realize the overhead dust collector would be in the way. It looks like that would be cumbersome to remove. But if it were removed, is there anything preventing one from cutting a plywood sheet in half using the crosscut fence on the slider?
If that is the case, it occurs to me that this might be a good argument for the standard dust collection blade guard system, since it would be easier to remove the tubing, or better yet the hose could be suspened above the saw. I know others using this machine with me will want to know if we can handle cutting plywood in half.
I guess the issues are 1) is how hard is it to remove the overarm dust collection? 2) is there anything else preventing having 38" stock to the right of the blade for a crosscut??
?
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Re: KF 700 cutting a sheet of plywood in half
I have KF700 with overhead dust collection and 31” rip capacity.
No way I would remove the overhead arm dust collection. Felder technician told me it took him and a helper more than 2 hours to install it before delivery.
I would use track saw to cut the plywood in half if ever needed. If you do not have a track saw, this is a reason to have it.
James
On Mon, Feb 24, 2020 at 4:20 PM < kumar@...> wrote:
I'm wondering if there is a way on the KF 700 to cut a piece of plywood in half with a 31 rip capacity unit. I realize the overhead dust collector would be in the way. It looks like that would be cumbersome to remove. But if it were removed, is there anything preventing one from cutting a plywood sheet in half using the crosscut fence on the slider?
If that is the case, it occurs to me that this might be a good argument for the standard dust collection blade guard system, since it would be easier to remove the tubing, or better yet the hose could be suspened above the saw. I know others using this machine with me will want to know if we can handle cutting plywood in half.
I guess the issues are 1) is how hard is it to remove the overarm dust collection? 2) is there anything else preventing having 38" stock to the right of the blade for a crosscut??
?
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Re: KF 700 cutting a sheet of plywood in half
On Mon, Feb 24, 2020 at 11:19 AM, <kumar@...> wrote:
3
above, I meant 48" to the right of the blade: 2) is there anything else preventing having 48" stock to the right of the blade for a crosscut??
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KF 700 cutting a sheet of plywood in half
I'm wondering if there is a way on the KF 700 to cut a piece of plywood in half with a 31 rip capacity unit. I realize the overhead dust collector would be in the way. It looks like that would be cumbersome to remove. But if it were removed, is there anything preventing one from cutting a plywood sheet in half using the crosscut fence on the slider?
If that is the case, it occurs to me that this might be a good argument for the standard dust collection blade guard system, since it would be easier to remove the tubing, or better yet the hose could be suspened above the saw. I know others using this machine with me will want to know if we can handle cutting plywood in half.
I guess the issues are 1) is how hard is it to remove the overarm dust collection? 2) is there anything else preventing having 38" stock to the right of the blade for a crosscut??
?
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Re: Felder BF 6 jointer table setup
On the question if one should use thread-lock or anti-seize on the set screws, I am still not sure. Do you find that you have to re-adjust the blades now and then on a machine of this type? The construction appears sturdy, so when it is set it looks like it should stay so, but reality is often surprising.? ? ?
As the blade heights were off up to 0.2 m.m. to one another I don't think there was another reasonable choice than re-adjusting the set screws. The set screws had had some strong thread lock on them, deeming from how tight they sat and residuals on the threads. I had to use heat to get them loose. Then, I saw that most inside threads were jammed above the top of the set screws heads. All set screws had to be loosened by screwing them inwards. Did they jam the threads at Felder, so nobody would tamper with the set screws? Beacuse I find it hard to believe that most threads were damaged this badly by accident. Fortunately it was possible to restore them with a tap and die.??
If we have to redo this process every now and then, thread-lock and oxide building up makes adjustments quiet a pain.?
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Re: Upcharge for automated scroring on KF 700
It was either $500 or 1k,? Regards, Mark
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On Feb 23, 2020, at 9:02 PM, kumar@... wrote:
?Can anyone tell me the upcharge (approximate) for automated scoring is on a KF 700 saw/shaper?
This is the feature of having a separate motor for the scoring blade rather than having it be powered off the main motor.
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Upcharge for automated scroring on KF 700
Can anyone tell me the upcharge (approximate) for automated scoring is on a KF 700 saw/shaper?
This is the feature of having a separate motor for the scoring blade rather than having it be powered off the main motor.
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Mac, That totally would have been my method if I didn’t have free access to the 3d printer.? Regards, Mark
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On Feb 23, 2020, at 3:36 PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
? Not sexy but 3 to 5” off the shelf is anther option, sucks lumber up the shoot so suction is not a problem.
Designing and building for 47 years On Feb 23, 2020, at 9:51 AM, imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Brian,
Are any of the materials you mentioned are poly carbonate?Google search said it has very good strength. If not, would an inexpensive printer handle PC?
Imran On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? The printer Mark Kessler is using is out of reach for any home hobby type situation. You can get a decent 3D printer for $500 or so, but it’s going to take $3000-$5000 to get one capable of printing with carbon fiber enhanced materials (or a lot of modifications to a cheaper model). With most home type machines you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and a few other alphabet soup combo’s. PLA is the most common and easiest to print with, but it does have strength and durability issues. I printed a LED light mount for my CNC mill using it and it has held up ok, even under the spray of oil and water based coolants.?
I also printed up some replacement speaker grills on my van when I did the handicapped conversion… the side doors required all new panels to accommodate the automatic door openers. That had to be printed out of ABS due to the summertime heat (would have melted and warped the PLA). Using ABS requires that you enclose the printer and keep the heat enclosed or the print goes to hell.
I have not used the DLP (Digital Light Processing) models. The smoothness of the prints is much better than FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and I think they have units coming out that will print with fairly strong materials… at what cost, I don’t know.
Brian Lamb blamb11@...www.lambtoolworks.com <IMG_3350.JPG> <IMG_3354.JPG> <IMG_2809.JPG>
I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!! ?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
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Can also just clamp the 4” hose to the metal, no fitting required? Regards, Mark
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On Feb 23, 2020, at 6:35 PM, Mark Kessler via Groups.Io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
?  Regards, Mark On Feb 23, 2020, at 4:22 PM, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:
? In the past people have also posted pics of pvc couplings or reducers re-formed to rectangular on one end. A few minutes with a heat gun or torch is all it takes. On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 12:36 PM Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression < airtightclamps@...> wrote: Not sexy but 3 to 5” off the shelf is anther option, sucks lumber up the shoot so suction is not a problem.
 Mac,,, ??
Designing and building for 47 years On Feb 23, 2020, at 9:51 AM, imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
?
Brian,
Are any of the materials you mentioned are poly carbonate?Google search said it has very good strength. If not, would an inexpensive printer handle PC?
Imran On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?The printer Mark Kessler is using is out of reach for any home hobby type situation. You can get a decent 3D printer for $500 or so, but it’s going to take $3000-$5000 to get one capable of printing with carbon fiber enhanced materials (or a lot of modifications to a cheaper model). With most home type machines you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and a few other alphabet soup combo’s. PLA is the most common and easiest to print with, but it does have strength and durability issues. I printed a LED light mount for my CNC mill using it and it has held up ok, even under the spray of oil and water based coolants.?
I also printed up some replacement speaker grills on my van when I did the handicapped conversion… the side doors required all new panels to accommodate the automatic door openers. That had to be printed out of ABS due to the summertime heat (would have melted and warped the PLA). Using ABS requires that you enclose the printer and keep the heat enclosed or the print goes to hell.
I have not used the DLP (Digital Light Processing) models. The smoothness of the prints is much better than FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and I think they have units coming out that will print with fairly strong materials… at what cost, I don’t know.
Brian Lamb blamb11@...<IMG_3350.JPG> <IMG_3354.JPG> <IMG_2809.JPG>
I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!! ?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
|
 Regards, Mark
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 23, 2020, at 4:22 PM, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:
? In the past people have also posted pics of pvc couplings or reducers re-formed to rectangular on one end. A few minutes with a heat gun or torch is all it takes. On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 12:36 PM Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression < airtightclamps@...> wrote: Not sexy but 3 to 5” off the shelf is anther option, sucks lumber up the shoot so suction is not a problem.
 Mac,,, ??
Designing and building for 47 years On Feb 23, 2020, at 9:51 AM, imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
?
Brian,
Are any of the materials you mentioned are poly carbonate?Google search said it has very good strength. If not, would an inexpensive printer handle PC?
Imran On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?The printer Mark Kessler is using is out of reach for any home hobby type situation. You can get a decent 3D printer for $500 or so, but it’s going to take $3000-$5000 to get one capable of printing with carbon fiber enhanced materials (or a lot of modifications to a cheaper model). With most home type machines you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and a few other alphabet soup combo’s. PLA is the most common and easiest to print with, but it does have strength and durability issues. I printed a LED light mount for my CNC mill using it and it has held up ok, even under the spray of oil and water based coolants.?
I also printed up some replacement speaker grills on my van when I did the handicapped conversion… the side doors required all new panels to accommodate the automatic door openers. That had to be printed out of ABS due to the summertime heat (would have melted and warped the PLA). Using ABS requires that you enclose the printer and keep the heat enclosed or the print goes to hell.
I have not used the DLP (Digital Light Processing) models. The smoothness of the prints is much better than FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and I think they have units coming out that will print with fairly strong materials… at what cost, I don’t know.
Brian Lamb blamb11@...<IMG_3350.JPG> <IMG_3354.JPG> <IMG_2809.JPG>
I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!! ?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
|
Not sure if 5k is out of reach for all hobbyists, have you seen some of the woodworking equipment they buy? ? ? Regards, Mark
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On Feb 23, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? The printer Mark Kessler is using is out of reach for any home hobby type situation. You can get a decent 3D printer for $500 or so, but it’s going to take $3000-$5000 to get one capable of printing with carbon fiber enhanced materials (or a lot of modifications to a cheaper model). With most home type machines you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and a few other alphabet soup combo’s. PLA is the most common and easiest to print with, but it does have strength and durability issues. I printed a LED light mount for my CNC mill using it and it has held up ok, even under the spray of oil and water based coolants.?
I also printed up some replacement speaker grills on my van when I did the handicapped conversion… the side doors required all new panels to accommodate the automatic door openers. That had to be printed out of ABS due to the summertime heat (would have melted and warped the PLA). Using ABS requires that you enclose the printer and keep the heat enclosed or the print goes to hell.
I have not used the DLP (Digital Light Processing) models. The smoothness of the prints is much better than FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and I think they have units coming out that will print with fairly strong materials… at what cost, I don’t know.
I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!! ?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
|
the dust port was printed on a Markforged mark 2 and I did not use carbon fibre filament just the nylon with chopped carbon which is more than strong enough. Also if memory serves me it was $6500 not 10k will have to check the invoice or cc. I think the non carbon fibre filament is like 5k Regards, Mark
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On Feb 23, 2020, at 11:46 AM, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:
?On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 05:49 AM, Michael Marsico wrote:
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
?
Well, everything is "relatively" strong ;-) It's all about compromise.? Some materials are "stronger" (vague term) than others, but there are multiple dimensions to "strong" -- stiffness, brittleness, creep, UV resistance, heat resistance, etc.? And different materials have slightly different printing characteristics -- some are easier to get quality prints with than others.? Some have noxious fumes during , some do not.? ?Some are cheap, some are expensive.? Some are abrasive (fiber filled) and require hardened nozzles. Etc... And there are tradeoffs in printing speed with deposition rates (nozzle size and layer height).?? Like with everything, to optimize you have to tune to the job requirements.? The carbon fiber-reinforced dust fitting from the $10k printer is lovely.? You could also get a $100k CNC machine and make it out of titanium.? And you can also make it on a $200 printer, more than twice as fast and less than half the material cost as the MarkForged printer.? Your wood dust would not know the difference between these three options.? Note that laser (light) printers are not using epoxy.? They use light-curing resins.? They are most commonly referred to as SLA (StereoLithography) printers.? Unless you have specific fine detail requirements, like you're making jewelry castings, you don't want to start with an SLA. The resin is messy, parts need washing, etc.? ?And the working size to cost ratio is much different.? You can choose from a dozen FDM printers with ~10" cube envelope for ~$500, but you'd have to spend ~$2,000+ and have very few options to get that size in SLA.?? ?
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Jason Holtz
Sang Luu