All, ? ?This is a very timely thread.? I've CC'd Bill Wickett at Rangate so he can see what has been discussed.? Bill is working to develop a dado cutter for sliders and I'm sure he'd be interested in any recommendations anybody in this group would have to make a better cutter. Please feel free to email Bill if you have any thoughts. Thanks,
That's definitely a better cut then your first picture but I'm sorry still unacceptable with those large chunks it blew out. For the price of the set not good and about as good as I could get back when I was testing. Feed rate definitely affects the cut and I've found with any cut in Melamine slower feed is definitely better with any Dado set.
On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 9:22 AM Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 06:18:28 AM PST, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
--
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
That's definitely a better cut then your first picture but I'm sorry still unacceptable with those large chunks it blew out. For the price of the set not good and about as good as I could get back when I was testing. Feed rate definitely affects the cut and I've found with any cut in Melamine slower feed is definitely better with any Dado set.
On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 9:22 AM Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 06:18:28 AM PST, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
|
I don¡¯t have dado capability, so this may be a dumb question, but are you only using that half of the cutter for a 1/4¡± dado? If so, you have side scoring cutters on one side of the groove only. I thought you were to use the other half and they interlock together and can be adjusted with spacers for different slot widths. Also, how wide are the bottom flattening inserts? If they could be set .005¡± above the flat surface like you are showing, then I suspect you¡¯d get an even better side finish.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 06:18:28 AM PST, Randy Child via Groups.Io < strongman_one@...> wrote:
Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
|
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 06:18:28 AM PST, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
|
Ok.. after my visit to the Felder office to have my dado blade checked out, here is what we discovered, and this is what we did to correct the issue.
First off, I learned, was to check to make sure the chippers and outside carbide inserts were seated correctly.? Mine were not..the outside cabinet inserts were fine, but the chippers were set in a way that the back end of them protruded out past the carbide nibblers just a whisper, but that's all it takes for them to create tear-out because they are catching as the "exit" the cut, forcing the fibers of the melamine outward, thus tearing out.? How we st these cutters was to place the dado blade flat on 2 separate pieces of melamine, loosen the set screws (the screws for the chippers are allen type screws and the carbide inserts are the torx type screws) (My high recommendation is to throw that piece of garbage torx tool that comes with the dado set in the trash and get the T-15 torx screwdriver) After you loosen the screws, press down so the dado body is flat and re-tighten the allen set screws.? Yes..I know, you can use a special tool and all that, but we didn't have that and this method worked perfectly fine. Test cut and check the results.?
We also discovered that a slower feed rate gave us a better cut after the bits were set.? My saw is set to run at 5500 rpm. Pictures show how we used the melamine and the results of resetting the bits?
|
Re: K975 blade cover MicroSwitch
Thanks Randy. That would be awesome.
Imran On Jan 25, 2020, at 7:12 AM, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
Good morning Imran..
I don't believe my saw will start when the cover is open. But I will check again just to make sure.. I too, want to find out if my cover is opening too far as well..From the looks of David's saw, it seems like both of our covers are opening too far..I'll shoot a text to Greg and ask him what's missing and DM you with what I find out
Randy
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 04:03:30 AM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Randy,
Make sure that your saw does not run with cover open. In my case it does. You want to be aware if that safety feature is not there to protect you.
Imran On Jan 25, 2020, at 6:39 AM, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
Hi David..
Hmm..I wonder if mine has an issue as well if it's not suppose to hit the lower carriage.. I'm going to look at the parts diagram and see if there's something missing on the both of Imran and my saw.. I do see that small bracket below the scoring blade arbor and notice that is not on my saw as well
I'll also shoot an e mail to Greg Bryson and ask him if he can look into it further
Thanks?
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 10:18:10 PM PST, david@... <david@...> wrote:
Imran, here is a photo of the blade cover in the open position on my K975. ? I don¡¯t remember what keeps it from opening so far that it bangs into the lower carriage of the sliding table like Randy¡¯s photo shows, but there was some kind of mechanical system that held the cover in the open position, and it was unrelated to the hinges:
As I recall, the restraint was at the scoring saw end of the cover, but I could be misremembering. ? I do remember having to fuss around with the hinge positions to get the cover to seat properly and to consistently actuate the safety microswitch.
David Best
On Jan 24, 2020, at 3:37 PM, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Randy. So nothing else preventing it from opening further than hinges?
Imran ?
Your blade cover opens a lot further than mine..mine hits the bottom, lower side of my sliding table carriage and rests against it..I dont think its suppose to open any further and definitely not flop down inside the cabinet of the saw .
I'm not 100% sure but I think you might be able to loosen the nuts on the hinges and raise the cover up a little more..
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 02:18:34 PM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Got my saw hooked up today. In checking safety items I noted that the blade cover microswitch is functional but the cover drops beyond horizontal and the control lever completely disengages from microswitch.
Can someone tell me if the blade cover should only travel from vertical (close) to horizontal (open)? If yes, what keeps it from opening any further (beyond horizontal)?
This is how far cover on my saw opens
When open this far the lever disengaged from microswitch
So currently, the microswitch disables saw when lever is in contact with microswitch (about open to horizontal). Then enabled the saw when switch falls in the notch in closed position.
<20200124_151220.jpg> <20200124_151554.jpg>
<PastedGraphic-1.tiff>
|
Re: K975 blade cover MicroSwitch
Good morning Imran..
I don't believe my saw will start when the cover is open. But I will check again just to make sure.. I too, want to find out if my cover is opening too far as well..From the looks of David's saw, it seems like both of our covers are opening too far..I'll shoot a text to Greg and ask him what's missing and DM you with what I find out
Randy
On Saturday, January 25, 2020, 04:03:30 AM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Randy,
Make sure that your saw does not run with cover open. In my case it does. You want to be aware if that safety feature is not there to protect you.
Imran On Jan 25, 2020, at 6:39 AM, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
Hi David..
Hmm..I wonder if mine has an issue as well if it's not suppose to hit the lower carriage.. I'm going to look at the parts diagram and see if there's something missing on the both of Imran and my saw.. I do see that small bracket below the scoring blade arbor and notice that is not on my saw as well
I'll also shoot an e mail to Greg Bryson and ask him if he can look into it further
Thanks?
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 10:18:10 PM PST, david@... <david@...> wrote:
Imran, here is a photo of the blade cover in the open position on my K975. ? I don¡¯t remember what keeps it from opening so far that it bangs into the lower carriage of the sliding table like Randy¡¯s photo shows, but there was some kind of mechanical system that held the cover in the open position, and it was unrelated to the hinges:
As I recall, the restraint was at the scoring saw end of the cover, but I could be misremembering. ? I do remember having to fuss around with the hinge positions to get the cover to seat properly and to consistently actuate the safety microswitch.
David Best
On Jan 24, 2020, at 3:37 PM, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Randy. So nothing else preventing it from opening further than hinges?
Imran ?
Your blade cover opens a lot further than mine..mine hits the bottom, lower side of my sliding table carriage and rests against it..I dont think its suppose to open any further and definitely not flop down inside the cabinet of the saw .
I'm not 100% sure but I think you might be able to loosen the nuts on the hinges and raise the cover up a little more..
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 02:18:34 PM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Got my saw hooked up today. In checking safety items I noted that the blade cover microswitch is functional but the cover drops beyond horizontal and the control lever completely disengages from microswitch.
Can someone tell me if the blade cover should only travel from vertical (close) to horizontal (open)? If yes, what keeps it from opening any further (beyond horizontal)?
This is how far cover on my saw opens
When open this far the lever disengaged from microswitch
So currently, the microswitch disables saw when lever is in contact with microswitch (about open to horizontal). Then enabled the saw when switch falls in the notch in closed position.
<20200124_151220.jpg> <20200124_151554.jpg>
<PastedGraphic-1.tiff>
|
Re: K975 blade cover MicroSwitch
Randy,
Make sure that your saw does not run with cover open. In my case it does. You want to be aware if that safety feature is not there to protect you.
Imran On Jan 25, 2020, at 6:39 AM, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
Hi David..
Hmm..I wonder if mine has an issue as well if it's not suppose to hit the lower carriage.. I'm going to look at the parts diagram and see if there's something missing on the both of Imran and my saw.. I do see that small bracket below the scoring blade arbor and notice that is not on my saw as well
I'll also shoot an e mail to Greg Bryson and ask him if he can look into it further
Thanks?
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 10:18:10 PM PST, david@... <david@...> wrote:
Imran, here is a photo of the blade cover in the open position on my K975. ? I don¡¯t remember what keeps it from opening so far that it bangs into the lower carriage of the sliding table like Randy¡¯s photo shows, but there was some kind of mechanical system that held the cover in the open position, and it was unrelated to the hinges:
As I recall, the restraint was at the scoring saw end of the cover, but I could be misremembering. ? I do remember having to fuss around with the hinge positions to get the cover to seat properly and to consistently actuate the safety microswitch.
David Best
On Jan 24, 2020, at 3:37 PM, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Randy. So nothing else preventing it from opening further than hinges?
Imran ?
Your blade cover opens a lot further than mine..mine hits the bottom, lower side of my sliding table carriage and rests against it..I dont think its suppose to open any further and definitely not flop down inside the cabinet of the saw .
I'm not 100% sure but I think you might be able to loosen the nuts on the hinges and raise the cover up a little more..
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 02:18:34 PM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Got my saw hooked up today. In checking safety items I noted that the blade cover microswitch is functional but the cover drops beyond horizontal and the control lever completely disengages from microswitch.
Can someone tell me if the blade cover should only travel from vertical (close) to horizontal (open)? If yes, what keeps it from opening any further (beyond horizontal)?
This is how far cover on my saw opens
When open this far the lever disengaged from microswitch
So currently, the microswitch disables saw when lever is in contact with microswitch (about open to horizontal). Then enabled the saw when switch falls in the notch in closed position.
<20200124_151220.jpg> <20200124_151554.jpg>
<PastedGraphic-1.tiff>
|
Re: K975 blade cover MicroSwitch
Randy, I am sorry that I did not notice that you had added pics until David mentioned it. They were at bottom of the email string. Reason, I did not follow right away what you were communicating.
David, thanks for the details. After seeing your pic, I realized that I have seen this before. I checked the drawings and do not see anything. I will ask Felder. Well I am out for 6 weeks so no shop time until March ?
Imran On Jan 25, 2020, at 1:18 AM, "david@..." <david@...> wrote:
? Imran, here is a photo of the blade cover in the open position on my K975. ? I don¡¯t remember what keeps it from opening so far that it bangs into the lower carriage of the sliding table like Randy¡¯s photo shows, but there was some kind of mechanical system that held the cover in the open position, and it was unrelated to the hinges:
As I recall, the restraint was at the scoring saw end of the cover, but I could be misremembering. ? I do remember having to fuss around with the hinge positions to get the cover to seat properly and to consistently actuate the safety microswitch.
David Best
On Jan 24, 2020, at 3:37 PM, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Randy. So nothing else preventing it from opening further than hinges?
Imran ?
Your blade cover opens a lot further than mine..mine hits the bottom, lower side of my sliding table carriage and rests against it..I dont think its suppose to open any further and definitely not flop down inside the cabinet of the saw .
I'm not 100% sure but I think you might be able to loosen the nuts on the hinges and raise the cover up a little more..
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 02:18:34 PM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Got my saw hooked up today. In checking safety items I noted that the blade cover microswitch is functional but the cover drops beyond horizontal and the control lever completely disengages from microswitch.
Can someone tell me if the blade cover should only travel from vertical (close) to horizontal (open)? If yes, what keeps it from opening any further (beyond horizontal)?
This is how far cover on my saw opens
When open this far the lever disengaged from microswitch
So currently, the microswitch disables saw when lever is in contact with microswitch (about open to horizontal). Then enabled the saw when switch falls in the notch in closed position.
<20200124_151220.jpg> <20200124_151554.jpg>
|
Re: K975 blade cover MicroSwitch
Hi David..
Hmm..I wonder if mine has an issue as well if it's not suppose to hit the lower carriage.. I'm going to look at the parts diagram and see if there's something missing on the both of Imran and my saw.. I do see that small bracket below the scoring blade arbor and notice that is not on my saw as well
I'll also shoot an e mail to Greg Bryson and ask him if he can look into it further
Thanks?
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 10:18:10 PM PST, david@... <david@...> wrote:
Imran, here is a photo of the blade cover in the open position on my K975. ? I don¡¯t remember what keeps it from opening so far that it bangs into the lower carriage of the sliding table like Randy¡¯s photo shows, but there was some kind of mechanical system that held the cover in the open position, and it was unrelated to the hinges:
As I recall, the restraint was at the scoring saw end of the cover, but I could be misremembering. ? I do remember having to fuss around with the hinge positions to get the cover to seat properly and to consistently actuate the safety microswitch.
David Best
On Jan 24, 2020, at 3:37 PM, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Randy. So nothing else preventing it from opening further than hinges?
Imran ?
Your blade cover opens a lot further than mine..mine hits the bottom, lower side of my sliding table carriage and rests against it..I dont think its suppose to open any further and definitely not flop down inside the cabinet of the saw .
I'm not 100% sure but I think you might be able to loosen the nuts on the hinges and raise the cover up a little more..
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 02:18:34 PM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Got my saw hooked up today. In checking safety items I noted that the blade cover microswitch is functional but the cover drops beyond horizontal and the control lever completely disengages from microswitch.
Can someone tell me if the blade cover should only travel from vertical (close) to horizontal (open)? If yes, what keeps it from opening any further (beyond horizontal)?
This is how far cover on my saw opens
When open this far the lever disengaged from microswitch
So currently, the microswitch disables saw when lever is in contact with microswitch (about open to horizontal). Then enabled the saw when switch falls in the notch in closed position.
<20200124_151220.jpg> <20200124_151554.jpg>
|
Re: K975 blade cover MicroSwitch
Imran, here is a photo of the blade cover in the open position on my K975. ? I don¡¯t remember what keeps it from opening so far that it bangs into the lower carriage of the sliding table like Randy¡¯s photo shows, but there was some kind of mechanical system that held the cover in the open position, and it was unrelated to the hinges:
As I recall, the restraint was at the scoring saw end of the cover, but I could be misremembering. ? I do remember having to fuss around with the hinge positions to get the cover to seat properly and to consistently actuate the safety microswitch.
David Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 24, 2020, at 3:37 PM, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Randy. So nothing else preventing it from opening further than hinges?
Imran ?
Your blade cover opens a lot further than mine..mine hits the bottom, lower side of my sliding table carriage and rests against it..I dont think its suppose to open any further and definitely not flop down inside the cabinet of the saw .
I'm not 100% sure but I think you might be able to loosen the nuts on the hinges and raise the cover up a little more..
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 02:18:34 PM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Got my saw hooked up today. In checking safety items I noted that the blade cover microswitch is functional but the cover drops beyond horizontal and the control lever completely disengages from microswitch.
Can someone tell me if the blade cover should only travel from vertical (close) to horizontal (open)? If yes, what keeps it from opening any further (beyond horizontal)?
This is how far cover on my saw opens
When open this far the lever disengaged from microswitch
So currently, the microswitch disables saw when lever is in contact with microswitch (about open to horizontal). Then enabled the saw when switch falls in the notch in closed position.
<20200124_151220.jpg> <20200124_151554.jpg>
|
Re: Putting a Hammer A31 Back into Spec.
To give some update,
I was able to correctly setup the temple bolts on the outfeed table to get the cutterblock parallel to the outfeed table. I used the carbon paper trick but I used it with the aluminiun foil method. Seems to work ok.
I was also able to play with the temple bolts on the infeed table to have the table parallel to the outfeed table/ cutterblock and also coplanar with a very sight upward motion toward the cutter head. The infeed table is 10 thousand above the outfeed table in the zero position. Not a big deal, I guess, and I did not want to play with the infeed table hinge bolts yet.
A cut test was with error less than 0.0015 over 4 ft. A second test gave error less than 0.003. So definitively some technics issue here.
Thanks again for the help.
Bill
|
Re: K975 blade cover MicroSwitch
Thanks Randy. So nothing else preventing it from opening further than hinges?
Imran On Jan 24, 2020, at 6:17 PM, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
Your blade cover opens a lot further than mine..mine hits the bottom, lower side of my sliding table carriage and rests against it..I dont think its suppose to open any further and definitely not flop down inside the cabinet of the saw .
I'm not 100% sure but I think you might be able to loosen the nuts on the hinges and raise the cover up a little more..
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 02:18:34 PM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Got my saw hooked up today. In checking safety items I noted that the blade cover microswitch is functional but the cover drops beyond horizontal and the control lever completely disengages from microswitch.
Can someone tell me if the blade cover should only travel from vertical (close) to horizontal (open)? If yes, what keeps it from opening any further (beyond horizontal)?
This is how far cover on my saw opens
When open this far the lever disengaged from microswitch
So currently, the microswitch disables saw when lever is in contact with microswitch (about open to horizontal). Then enabled the saw when switch falls in the notch in closed position.
<20200124_151220.jpg> <20200124_151554.jpg>
|
Re: K975 blade cover MicroSwitch
Your blade cover opens a lot further than mine..mine hits the bottom, lower side of my sliding table carriage and rests against it..I dont think its suppose to open any further and definitely not flop down inside the cabinet of the saw .
I'm not 100% sure but I think you might be able to loosen the nuts on the hinges and raise the cover up a little more..
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 02:18:34 PM PST, imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Got my saw hooked up today. In checking safety items I noted that the blade cover microswitch is functional but the cover drops beyond horizontal and the control lever completely disengages from microswitch.
Can someone tell me if the blade cover should only travel from vertical (close) to horizontal (open)? If yes, what keeps it from opening any further (beyond horizontal)?
This is how far cover on my saw opens
When open this far the lever disengaged from microswitch
So currently, the microswitch disables saw when lever is in contact with microswitch (about open to horizontal). Then enabled the saw when switch falls in the notch in closed position.
|
K975 blade cover MicroSwitch
Got my saw hooked up today. In checking safety items I noted that the blade cover microswitch is functional but the cover drops beyond horizontal and the control lever completely disengages from the microswitch.
Can someone tell me if the blade cover should only travel from vertical (close) to horizontal (open)? If yes, what keeps it from opening any further (beyond horizontal)?
This is how far cover on my saw opens
Switch not in contact with control lever:
Currently, the saw is enabled with cover open as shown above. As I close the cover the lever engages with the microswitch and disables saw (cover about open to horizontal). Then the saw is enabled again when the switch falls in the notch (pointed by arrow below) in closed position.
So appears that all would be fine if the cover did not open as far as it does on my saw.
Imran
|
Happened to me just last month, it¡¯s a lost cause...
Regards, Mark
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 24, 2020, at 2:22 PM, imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?Make sure your power driver is set to Fwd when tightening the lead screws. I had it set to reverse, the screw came out of the captured plate. Took me a while to get it back on the screw.
I could not pop the clear top off of the white body below to gain access.
Let me know if the clear part is removable for future info.
Imran
|
Make sure your power driver is set to Fwd when tightening the lead screws. I had it set to reverse, the screw came out of the captured plate. Took me a while to get it back on the screw.
I could not pop the clear top off of the white body below to gain access.
Let me know if the clear part is removable for future info.
Imran
|
Hi Randy,
You won¡¯t find much hand holding when it comes to Industrial cutters and machinery. ?
In Germany only a Meister can start a wood shop unlike in North America were anyone can. ?Anyone who gets a job at a wood shop in Germany has 3 to 5 years of school so basic and advanced knowledge of woodworking and processes are assumed. ?
The learning curve in NA is steep, that is why David Best¡¯s Unofficial ?Survival Guide is so great! ?David has a tremendous ability to take in vast amounts of data and distill it into easy to understand explanations. ?His Survival Guide saved me years of struggle when I switched from a career in the music industry to woodworking. ?
Another issue we run into as hobbyist woodworkers when we buy industrial equipment and cutters is that the knives and the equipment last for many more hours than we will use them so we don¡¯t gain much experience is set up, repair and changing knives. ?I have cutters from more than ten years ago that have never had the knives changed or rotated. ?In an industrial shop were they run cutters all day through many thousands of board feet of lumber knives may be changed every few days. ?Very high speed cutters are set up with comparators that measure the edges of the knives to very small tolerances. ?It is not feasible to buy a comparator for a hobby shop so Mac¡¯s suggestion of using a dial gage is a good substitute. ?Getting a torque wrench and torquing insert knives to specification is a good idea too. ?
So far no cutter that I have bought has has set up instructions. ?Greg Godbout at Rangate is a wealth of knowledge and it is worth it to me to buy all my cutters from him for the excellent support alone. ?
This group is a great way to learn too. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
When I got this dado set, I thought that for $1100 it should be cutting pretty much flawless dado's and was shocked to see that it was worse than a cheap knock off dado set..? Carl Knapp of Felder said that these dado sets are actually shaper cutters modified for our saws which explain the large mass.? Again, a whole lot of headache and wasted time could be saved if only the chippers and nibblers were set correctly at the factory or at the very least a heads up and some form of setting instructions provided
Good Stuff Randy glad you found the issue. I did check this with the set I was asked to test. Bad cutter setup was the first thing that came to mind. The problematic issue you have brought light? is why are these chippers set at the exact same height as the side cutters. A .010" offset would still perform the same function and eliminate a problem. Common sense dictates they should under sized to accommodate minor machining differences in both the head and the cutter. They don't allow dado cuts in Europe so I believe they were put together to accommodate the NA market.?
John JMK Services
-------- Original message -------- Date: 2020-01-24 10:00 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] Felder Dado blade
Ok.. It was the chipper tooth that cleans out between the nibbler tooth.. they were not seated properly..? David Best and I both agree that Felder really needs to up their game on their technical data with their product and at least give us some form of owners manual or instructions.. Once those chippers were all set correctly, the dado cut perfectly in melamine.? What we did was placed 2 boards of melamine ( you can use any very flat surface but the blade needs to be elevated so the teeth sit flat against the board, then loosen the allen head screws used to set the chipper tooth and make sure it's flat and then re tighten the set screw. It's very hard to see if they are out of alignment just by looking at them, but if you look closely, you can see where the back end of the tooth has hit the groove. That's all it takes because the back of the tooth is exiting the cut, pulling the fibers of the wood outward, causing the chip-out.? Hope this helps anyone having issues with these blades..
|
When I got this dado set, I thought that for $1100 it should be cutting pretty much flawless dado's and was shocked to see that it was worse than a cheap knock off dado set..? Carl Knapp of Felder said that these dado sets are actually shaper cutters modified for our saws which explain the large mass.? Again, a whole lot of headache and wasted time could be saved if only the chippers and nibblers were set correctly at the factory or at the very least a heads up and some form of setting instructions provided
On Friday, January 24, 2020, 08:13:09 AM PST, jmkserv@... <jmkserv@...> wrote:
Good Stuff Randy glad you found the issue. I did check this with the set I was asked to test. Bad cutter setup was the first thing that came to mind. The problematic issue you have brought light? is why are these chippers set at the exact same height as the side cutters. A .010" offset would still perform the same function and eliminate a problem. Common sense dictates they should under sized to accommodate minor machining differences in both the head and the cutter. They don't allow dado cuts in Europe so I believe they were put together to accommodate the NA market.?
-------- Original message -------- From: "Randy Child via Groups.Io" <strongman_one@...> Date: 2020-01-24 10:00 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] Felder Dado blade
Ok.. It was the chipper tooth that cleans out between the nibbler tooth.. they were not seated properly..? David Best and I both agree that Felder really needs to up their game on their technical data with their product and at least give us some form of owners manual or instructions.. Once those chippers were all set correctly, the dado cut perfectly in melamine.? What we did was placed 2 boards of melamine ( you can use any very flat surface but the blade needs to be elevated so the teeth sit flat against the board, then loosen the allen head screws used to set the chipper tooth and make sure it's flat and then re tighten the set screw. It's very hard to see if they are out of alignment just by looking at them, but if you look closely, you can see where the back end of the tooth has hit the groove. That's all it takes because the back of the tooth is exiting the cut, pulling the fibers of the wood outward, causing the chip-out.? Hope this helps anyone having issues with these blades..
|
Good Stuff Randy glad you found the issue. I did check this with the set I was asked to test. Bad cutter setup was the first thing that came to mind. The problematic issue you have brought light? is why are these chippers set at the exact same height as the side cutters. A .010" offset would still perform the same function and eliminate a problem. Common sense dictates they should under sized to accommodate minor machining differences in both the head and the cutter. They don't allow dado cuts in Europe so I believe they were put together to accommodate the NA market.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: "Randy Child via Groups.Io" <strongman_one@...> Date: 2020-01-24 10:00 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] Felder Dado blade
Ok.. It was the chipper tooth that cleans out between the nibbler tooth.. they were not seated properly..? David Best and I both agree that Felder really needs to up their game on their technical data with their product and at least give us some form of owners manual or instructions.. Once those chippers were all set correctly, the dado cut perfectly in melamine.? What we did was placed 2 boards of melamine ( you can use any very flat surface but the blade needs to be elevated so the teeth sit flat against the board, then loosen the allen head screws used to set the chipper tooth and make sure it's flat and then re tighten the set screw. It's very hard to see if they are out of alignment just by looking at them, but if you look closely, you can see where the back end of the tooth has hit the groove. That's all it takes because the back of the tooth is exiting the cut, pulling the fibers of the wood outward, causing the chip-out.? Hope this helps anyone having issues with these blades..
|
imran
David P. Best
