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Re: Joel's pics

Geoff Shepherd
 

That reminds me of the miniature combination machine I saw at the Seattle
Woodworking Show... I think it was from Hegner... combination saw/router
table (and maybe one other function), and even had a little sliding table. I
know the micro-table saws are popular with pen turners as well - when you
need to cut small pieces of expensive exotic wood, these saws do the trick
and waste very little in the kerf width.

... Geoff

----- Original Message -----
From: Joel Cohen <Jcohen@...>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 8:55 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Joel's pics


right , they are a table saw and thickness sander. I got them after I got
the Felder and found out that I could not cut the miniature pieces I needed
for the small boxes I make. They are from Preac and are precision tools,
much like the Felder on a smaller scale.


Re: solution to BF7-41 planer problem

dolsid
 

开云体育

I had a similar problem?with a BF7-41 and hold my breath when ever I use the planer.

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 9:12 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] solution to BF7-41 planer problem

Thanks to John R. and Seth H.for their responses.
After much fussing, adjusting the compression spring screws 1/2 of one screwdriver slot width at a time, and finding the an appropriate balance? between infeed and outfeed roller pressure, I successfully? achieved some progress in getting the planer to feed. Several coats of machine buffed paste wax applied to the table resulted in smooth feeding of? lumber and the end to many hours of frustration.?Felder makes a fine machine, but in my opinion it is a bit too sensitive in some respects. I would be interested to hear from anyone else in this regard.
With respect to the limitation of the jointer fence setting relative to the jointer table width, I am of the opinion that the jointer table side extension should be an included part of the machine, even if the cost is built into the price. I used to use the full surface of the jointer on my BF5 ( now Phillip Tamarkin's) without the fence with no problem, but still feel that the fence should be useable with the full width of the table. I have the extension on the BF7 and find I like not having to remove and replace the fence when going from surfacing to jointing while doing wide stock.
Regards to all,
Paul

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Re: Who uploaded 2-PIC00008.jpg ??

 

Geoff,

The MAC version of Word can read PC files perfectly, so no problem there.

Larry


Hints on Dovetail Coupling?

Geoff Shepherd
 

Anyone have any tips & hints on adjusting the aluminum system extension
table for use with the dovetail coupling? It seems very tricky, and so far
my attempts of following the terse instructions result in a sagging table.
It seems like the lower pair of stand-off bolts take most of the weight, and
the upper pair don't contact the dovetail face - if they do it just produces
even more sagging.

Ideas?

..Geoff


Larry's 3-ph Diagram/Notes

Geoff Shepherd
 

Larry has uploaded new versions of his 3-phase wiring diagram and notes in
HTML/GIF format to the Vault.

(by the way, thanks to Felder USA for also uploading an HTML version of the
Special of the Month! If anyone had troubles getting it to load before,
check it out now.)

Larry's system turns on the 3-phase dust collector automatically whenever
any of the machines are in use.

Does this Auto-Switch relay have any sort of timers built in so it doesn't
switch on the dust collector for a few seconds (to avoid two motors loads
starting simultaneously), and another delay to run for a number of seconds
after the machine is shut down to clear the pipes/hoses? If not, could this
be added with additional time-delay relays?

Also, I have an old article from Fine Woodworking that shows how to build
automatic blast gates. I wonder if that could be integrated with this design
as well. I'm going to have to dig up that article...

...Geoff


Re: Hints on Dovetail Coupling?

Charlie Norton
 

I don't have the dovetail system, so I can't comment on it. I have worked
our a good system for the F-type extensions and for adjusting the level of
the infeed table to get it exactly in line with the outfeed table when not
using the jointer:

Jointer Table
I zero a digital dial indicator on the infeed table referenced to
itself, then tip the indicator up on it's magnetic base so that the
indicator tip safely clears the blade.
Then I indicate the outfeed table referenced to the infeed table
(magnetic base on infeed table, indicator tip on the outfeed table), and
using the palm of my hand to tap the adjusting lever, I position the infeed
until the dial is zeroed. Voila! With a little practice (I got lots when I
had to adjust the tables for parallelism!) you have both tables co-planar
within 0.0005 inches in under 30 seconds.

F-Type Extensions
Obviously, this is much trickier due to the need to adjust the lower
bolts. However, I figure the most important aspects of this are:
1) Making sure the two tables are exactly at the same height where they
are closest to avoid "catching" of the workpiece in either direction.
2) Making sure the extension is even or rises slightly (say .005 at the
end farthest from the table) ) as you move away from the table. I let it
rise as I figure when I put weight on it, it will sag a bit.
With this in mind, I adjust the two screws leveling the height of the
extension with the method above. Be ALL screws are in contact with the
table by feeling the increase in drive torque as you rotate them into the
table. Tighten down the lock nuts.
Then I adjust the lower bolts so that the extension rises slightly. Be
sure BOTH bolts contact the table. This usually takes me a few tries.
Tighten the quick lock before checking with a straight edge. Tighten down
the lock nuts.
Then rezero the height using the procedure above. I have found that
unless I have to move the extension adjustment screws a lot, I am still
within 0.005 on the plus side for the end of the table.

When I first got the machine, I did not have a lot of confidence in the
extensions to maintain accurate table alignment in use. I could not believe
Felder didn't have custom, flat headed bolts to rest against the table. I
guess the $.50 they saved per bolt was worth it to them. After some
experience (not enough to speak with authority), I have been pleasantly
surprised. They seem to be holding the initial alignments well. I have NOT
put much weight on them yet, however.

-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Shepherd <geoff@...>
To: felder-woodworking@... <felder-woodworking@...>
Date: Thursday, February 17, 2000 6:24 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Hints on Dovetail Coupling?


Anyone have any tips & hints on adjusting the aluminum system extension
table for use with the dovetail coupling? It seems very tricky, and so far
my attempts of following the terse instructions result in a sagging table.
It seems like the lower pair of stand-off bolts take most of the weight,
and
the upper pair don't contact the dovetail face - if they do it just
produces
even more sagging.

Ideas?

..Geoff



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Re: Hints on Dovetail Coupling?

Geoff Shepherd
 

Thanks for the ideas on both the extension table and zeroing the jointer
table.

This system extension table is the dual-ended version with the flat-type
coupling on the other end. The BF6 machines use dovetails couplings all
around except on the slider which is flat-type. The F-type end only took me
about 20 minutes to align (first-timer, you know), and I was impressed with
the results. The S-type end stumped me after a good hour or so of fiddling
with it. Usually I'm pretty good about figuring out the design ideas behind
things like this, but this one isn't behaving the way I would expect it to.

Take care..
..Geoff

----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie Norton <cnorton@...>
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 8:18 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Hints on Dovetail Coupling?


I don't have the dovetail system, so I can't comment on it. I have worked
our a good system for the F-type extensions and for adjusting the level of
the infeed table to get it exactly in line with the outfeed table when not
using the jointer:
(snip)


POLL: Cutting Dados

 

Given that the Felder machines do not normally accept a stacked dado blade set, what are your favorite/usual methods of milling dados?

----

Please select one or more of the following:

o High-speed spindle, straight bits
o H.S. spindle, spiral bits
o H.S. spindle, Hersaf bits
o Slotting cutter in shaper
o Multiple passes with saw blade
o Modified dado set
o Hand-held router
o Other


by going to the following Web form:



Thank you!


Re: Larry's 3-ph Diagram/Notes

 

The auto switch for the dust collector has a 4 second time delay for turn on
after any machine is turned on, and a 7 second delay after the machine is
turned off for the dust to clear the piping.

Larry


Re: Hints on Dovetail Coupling?

 

I don't know if I have any special hints in adjusting the aluminum extension
table. It did take me some time and quite a bit of fiddling, but I got it to
fit right and it doesn't sag. I think if you hold it up by hand so it's
flush with the machine table and then adjust the screws it may help. Seems
to me that's what I did ..but it was over a year ago and I don't quite
remember. Good luck!

Larry


Vault reorganized

Scott Slater
 

I have reorganized the folders in the vault section. Since there were
quite a few files uploaded there, I thought that it would be nicer to
have more organization. Inside of the Articles, News, and Reviews
folder, there are now 3 separate folders; Machine Reviews, News, and
Technical Information. When uploading files in the future, please
upload to the appropriate folder.

I also converted the .DOC files to HTML. Some of text files that were
uploaded did not contain line breaks, and were difficult to read. HTML
seems to be the best format for the files. To convert the DOC files, I
used Microsoft Word, and exported (saved) the file as a web page. It is
very easy to do, and keeps the formatting of the original document. If
you have any questions feel free to email me.

Scott


Re: Hints on Dovetail Coupling?

Geoff Shepherd
 

The saga continues... Thursday evening once again I tried to get the
aluminum system extension table aligned to the dovetail rails on my
BF6-31. I must have spent another hour on it. Unfortunately, despite
positive thinking, the same result: a depressingly consistent 1-degree
sag. If I adjust the screws for perfect alignment and use a goodly
amount of clamping pressure, it is fine until the slightest weight is
applied. Then, it sags to the same 1-degree position and rests solidly.
Strangest thing.

So, just for a change of pace, I decided it would be worthwhile to
align the cast-iron extension - it needed aligning anyway. Piece of
cake! It only took a few minutes and it is spot-on with no sagging
despite heavy weight. I was impressed with the results and curious as
to what could be different!

OK... so I figured something was wrong with the aluminum extension
table. Could it be the dovetail angle? What if the dovetail was
slightly steeper on the new extension table. That would create the
result I was seeing: precise adjustment, careful mounting, and heavy
clamping pressure would secure the table flush, but only the tip of the
dovetail would actually be clamping onto the table rail. The slightest
weight on the table would cause the aluminum dovetail to pivot away
from the rail dovetail, and the table would come to rest at the point
the two dovetails mated against their full faces.

So, with that theory to go on, I started checking dovetail angles. The
critical one as I see it is the angle between the dovetail and the
table surface. This should match precisely on both the rail and the
extension tables so the dovetails mate solidly across their full bevel
faces. My tools were admittedly crude: a Stanley sliding bevel, a flat
metal rule, and a plastic protractor from an artist's supply house.
With the dovetail facing up (extension tables upsidedown), I positioned
the steel rule on the bevel of the dovetail, then used the sliding
bevel tool from the side to copy the angle between the bevel and the
table surface. I traced this angle with a fine drafting pencil onto a
squared block of maple. I could then use the protractor to read the
angle. The results were consistent within 1/2 a degree or better over
several re-measurements.

My '97 BF6-31's dovetails are all about 29-degrees in relation to the
table surface. The cast iron extension that came with the machine is
also at 29-degrees. This extension aligns perfectly and solidly.

The new aluminum system extension table (F and S couplings) has a
30-degree dovetail. Aha! That would explain why the table wants to
consistently lock down with a 1-degree sag regardless of the adjustment
bolts. They can't compensate for that much difference.

I talked to Felder today, and they are looking into this. I would be
very interested to hear what other 6-series machine owners have for
dovetail angles. Maybe it was changed at one point, or possibly I have
an incorrectly milled extension table.

Well, that's the theory for now. I don't think the aluminum extension
table should be any more difficult to align precisely and solidly than
the cast iron extensions. Something is definately different about it,
and even with my crude measuring devices, it seems to be the dovetail
angle.

At least the F-coupling works very well so I can use it on the sliding
table.

I'll let you all know how this turns out.

..Geoff

nibs-@... wrote:
original article:
=85
I don't know if I have any special hints in adjusting the aluminum
extension
table. It did take me some time and quite a bit of fiddling, but I
got it to
fit right and it doesn't sag. I think if you hold it up by hand so
it's
flush with the machine table and then adjust the screws it may help.
Seems
to me that's what I did ..but it was over a year ago and I don't
quite
remember. Good luck!

Larry


Re: Vault reorganized

Geoff Shepherd
 

Scott - Thanks for taking the time to help organize the Vault... the
Articles section was getting pretty jumbled together, especially with
all the varying file formats.

I agree, HTML is an excellent format to upload artices with, and is
even better than plain text since formatting is preserved and words
reliably wrap. As you suggest, most modern word processors can Export
or Save As HTML/Web format.

Another alternative is to learn the rudimentaries of HTML and write
articles in a plain text editor such as Windows Notepad or MacOS's
SimpleText. That is what I ususally do, but then I'm a software
developer by day and sometimes like doing things the "old" way! ;-) I
guess doing it that way is like using hand tools, but as is often said,
I get more control over the final results (can't vouch for "connecting
with" the bits and bytes though).

I'm very pleased with how our new forum is going! Many thanks to
everyone involved!

--
Geoff Shepherd
(group manager)


3-ph current draw results

Geoff Shepherd
 

Hi all,

Mainly out of curiosity, today I purchased a basic digital clamp-around AC
ammeter ($60 Sperry DSA-400) to check the current draw on my Kay Phasemaster
and Felder machines.

The Phasmaster MA-1's original factory test results from two years ago show
it should draw at idle 4.6A at 242VAC. My measurements show about 4.2A at
245VAC. Although this meter doesn't have a peak hold function, start up
surge looked to be around 50A over several tests, but I don't know how
accurate it could be in measuring these very brief surges.

Since I only have only one twist-lock receptacle installed at the moment, I
can only test each machine running by itself. Here are those results as
measured on the single-phase supply to the phase converter:

AF-22 LN 3kW/3ph (3m of 120mm hose connected to saw, 3m of 80mm hose
connected to shaper, and a used but freshly cleaned pleated poly drum
filter):
Starting peak: ~50A
Full power: 7.0A (8A with 120mm hose removed)

BF6-31 2.2kW/3ph (table saw mode w/12" stock blade):
Braking self-test: 4.9A
Starting peak: ~40A
Idling: 4.5A

Remember - these results are with both the subject machine and the phase
converter running. I'm not sure if I should just subtract out the phase
converter idle current to get real values, or if it is more complex than
that.

When I get the second twist-lock recptacle installed, I'll check the 3-phase
voltage balance under load and 1-phase current draw with both the BF6-31 and
the AF-22 LN running simultaneously.

The single-phase amp measurements were taken on each of the two hot legs
inside my 30A quick disconnect to the phase converter. Curiously, there was
a consistent difference about about 0.2A between the two hot lines. I'm not
sure what would cause that, but maybe it has to do with the snap-clamp
transformer being proximity sensitive to the metal cabinet, or just the
results of not buying a more expensive meter. In any case, I took the two
measurements and calculated an average.

If I did this incorrectly, please somebody let me know. I'm also not sure
how I should measure the current draw on the 3-phase side. Do I measure one
leg, two legs, or all three and add/average the results? Not sure...

..Geoff


Re: 3-ph current draw results

Charlie Norton
 

The 7.0A you measured was the current flowing to the phase converter after
the split between the machine and the converter itself, so this is the
amount of current required to generate the third phase. When you measure
the three phase currents out, you will probably see the difference between
the 7A and the 4.2A idle. I am always surprised at how much power the
converter takes at idle.

I would be curious to see how much current is flowing into each of the 3
phase legs. I wonder if the generated phase current is much different than
the other two.

Has anyone ever looked at the currents out of the phase converter with a
current probe and an o-scope? Do they maintain anywhere near a 120 degree
phasing between the three phases? Is the phasing dependant on load?

-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Shepherd <geoff@...>
To: felder-woodworking@... <felder-woodworking@...>
Date: Sunday, February 20, 2000 10:23 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] 3-ph current draw results


Hi all,

Mainly out of curiosity, today I purchased a basic digital clamp-around AC
ammeter ($60 Sperry DSA-400) to check the current draw on my Kay
Phasemaster
and Felder machines.

The Phasmaster MA-1's original factory test results from two years ago show
it should draw at idle 4.6A at 242VAC. My measurements show about 4.2A at
245VAC. Although this meter doesn't have a peak hold function, start up
surge looked to be around 50A over several tests, but I don't know how
accurate it could be in measuring these very brief surges.

Since I only have only one twist-lock receptacle installed at the moment, I
can only test each machine running by itself. Here are those results as
measured on the single-phase supply to the phase converter:

AF-22 LN 3kW/3ph (3m of 120mm hose connected to saw, 3m of 80mm hose
connected to shaper, and a used but freshly cleaned pleated poly drum
filter):
Starting peak: ~50A
Full power: 7.0A (8A with 120mm hose removed)

BF6-31 2.2kW/3ph (table saw mode w/12" stock blade):
Braking self-test: 4.9A
Starting peak: ~40A
Idling: 4.5A

Remember - these results are with both the subject machine and the phase
converter running. I'm not sure if I should just subtract out the phase
converter idle current to get real values, or if it is more complex than
that.

When I get the second twist-lock recptacle installed, I'll check the
3-phase
voltage balance under load and 1-phase current draw with both the BF6-31
and
the AF-22 LN running simultaneously.

The single-phase amp measurements were taken on each of the two hot legs
inside my 30A quick disconnect to the phase converter. Curiously, there was
a consistent difference about about 0.2A between the two hot lines. I'm not
sure what would cause that, but maybe it has to do with the snap-clamp
transformer being proximity sensitive to the metal cabinet, or just the
results of not buying a more expensive meter. In any case, I took the two
measurements and calculated an average.

If I did this incorrectly, please somebody let me know. I'm also not sure
how I should measure the current draw on the 3-phase side. Do I measure one
leg, two legs, or all three and add/average the results? Not sure...

..Geoff



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Re: 3-ph current draw results

Geoff Shepherd
 

Charlie,

I think I left out a bit of info... my two-pole quick-disconnect supplies
single-phase power both to the converter as well as contributes two hot legs
to the machines. The third leg comes from the converter and joins the
original two hot legs. Shutting off the QD cuts all power to the converter
and machines simultaneously (no chance of single phase going to the machines
unless the converter failed). In other words, as I was measuring at the
quick-disconnect, I was measuring the combined load of the phase converter
and the powered machine(s). Check out John Renzetti's three-phase wiring
diagram in the group Vault, it's what I have done for now:

,%20News,%20and%2
0Reviews/Technical%20Information/3-Phase%20Wiring%20Diagram%20-%20J%20Renzet
ti.gif

(yow, that's long... you might have to cut'n'paste if it doesn't work)

At some point, I may do a fancier set up with a three-phase load center so I
can do the automatic dust collector thing.

So, last night I got my second receptacle installed and measured the
combined load of the phase converter, AF-22LN, and BF6-31. That came out to
about 10.5A at the quick-disconnect. I imagine it should be a bit more when
the BF6-31 is doing some actual work such as planing 12" wide stock (I'll
take that measurement too, just for completeness).

I think John's phase converter (same model I have) is cooler running than
mine - it uses only a couple amps at idle. Since mine uses about four amps
at idle, it does act as a small room heater - can't complain this time of
year. The future in phase conversion will probably be these microprocessor
controlled inverting-type systems I keep hearing about. Didn't someone on
this list retrofit a BF7-41 with one of these? I wonder how the efficiency
and cost/benefit ratio is...

..Geoff

----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie Norton <cnorton@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 8:16 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: 3-ph current draw results


The 7.0A you measured was the current flowing to the phase converter after
the split between the machine and the converter itself, so this is the
amount of current required to generate the third phase. When you measure
the three phase currents out, you will probably see the difference between
the 7A and the 4.2A idle. I am always surprised at how much power the
converter takes at idle.

I would be curious to see how much current is flowing into each of the 3
phase legs. I wonder if the generated phase current is much different
than
the other two.

Has anyone ever looked at the currents out of the phase converter with a
current probe and an o-scope? Do they maintain anywhere near a 120 degree
phasing between the three phases? Is the phasing dependant on load?
-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Shepherd <geoff@...>
To: felder-woodworking@... <felder-woodworking@...>
Date: Sunday, February 20, 2000 10:23 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] 3-ph current draw results


Hi all,

Mainly out of curiosity, today I purchased a basic digital clamp-around
AC
ammeter ($60 Sperry DSA-400) to check the current draw on my Kay
Phasemaster
and Felder machines.

The Phasmaster MA-1's original factory test results from two years ago
show
it should draw at idle 4.6A at 242VAC. My measurements show about 4.2A at
245VAC. Although this meter doesn't have a peak hold function, start up
surge looked to be around 50A over several tests, but I don't know how
accurate it could be in measuring these very brief surges.

Since I only have only one twist-lock receptacle installed at the moment,
I
can only test each machine running by itself. Here are those results as
measured on the single-phase supply to the phase converter:

AF-22 LN 3kW/3ph (3m of 120mm hose connected to saw, 3m of 80mm hose
connected to shaper, and a used but freshly cleaned pleated poly drum
filter):
Starting peak: ~50A
Full power: 7.0A (8A with 120mm hose removed)

BF6-31 2.2kW/3ph (table saw mode w/12" stock blade):
Braking self-test: 4.9A
Starting peak: ~40A
Idling: 4.5A

Remember - these results are with both the subject machine and the phase
converter running. I'm not sure if I should just subtract out the phase
converter idle current to get real values, or if it is more complex than
that.

When I get the second twist-lock recptacle installed, I'll check the
3-phase
voltage balance under load and 1-phase current draw with both the BF6-31
and
the AF-22 LN running simultaneously.

The single-phase amp measurements were taken on each of the two hot legs
inside my 30A quick disconnect to the phase converter. Curiously, there
was
a consistent difference about about 0.2A between the two hot lines. I'm
not
sure what would cause that, but maybe it has to do with the snap-clamp
transformer being proximity sensitive to the metal cabinet, or just the
results of not buying a more expensive meter. In any case, I took the two
measurements and calculated an average.

If I did this incorrectly, please somebody let me know. I'm also not sure
how I should measure the current draw on the 3-phase side. Do I measure
one
leg, two legs, or all three and add/average the results? Not sure...

..Geoff



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Speaking of mini-machines...

Geoff Shepherd
 

We were talking about Joel's Preac machines a little bit ago. Now I
remember what I saw at the ww show - it was a Hegner Accura Mark IV
combination machine. Looked like a tiny little Felder for doing small
scale precision work, complete with a little sliding table if I recall
correctly. I know of someone looking to sell one of these in CA to make
room for a new lathe.

..Geoff


Re: Speaking of mini-machines...

Joel Cohen
 

Geoff,

I may be interested in buying a Mark IV. Do you know anything about the one
that is for sale (condition, price, options, etc)?

Thanks,

Joel (703-323-0919, x418) jcohen@...

-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Shepherd [SMTP:geoff@...]
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 1:28 PM
To: felder-woodworking@...
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Speaking of mini-machines...

We were talking about Joel's Preac machines a little bit ago. Now I
remember what I saw at the ww show - it was a Hegner Accura Mark IV
combination machine. Looked like a tiny little Felder for doing
small
scale precision work, complete with a little sliding table if I
recall
correctly. I know of someone looking to sell one of these in CA to
make
room for a new lathe.

..Geoff




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Re: Speaking of mini-machines...

John Renzetti
 

Joel, Advanced Machinery Imports that sells the Hegners is right near the
New Castle County airport where our plane is based. Do you want me to check
it out for you. I know a couple of the people over there.
Take care,
John Renzetti

----- Original Message -----
From: Joel Cohen <Jcohen@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 1:29 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Speaking of mini-machines...


Geoff,

I may be interested in buying a Mark IV. Do you know anything about the
one
that is for sale (condition, price, options, etc)?

Thanks,

Joel (703-323-0919, x418) jcohen@...

-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Shepherd [SMTP:geoff@...]
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 1:28 PM
To: felder-woodworking@...
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Speaking of mini-machines...

We were talking about Joel's Preac machines a little bit ago. Now I
remember what I saw at the ww show - it was a Hegner Accura Mark IV
combination machine. Looked like a tiny little Felder for doing
small
scale precision work, complete with a little sliding table if I
recall
correctly. I know of someone looking to sell one of these in CA to
make
room for a new lathe.

..Geoff




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Re: Speaking of mini-machines...

Joel Cohen
 

John,

That would be great!!! They are going to bring one to the Va. Show in the
brginning of March for me to play with.

Thanks for the response.

New baby sooon????


Joel

-----Original Message-----
From: John Renzetti [SMTP:J.Renzetti@...]
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 1:43 PM
To: felder-woodworking@...
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Speaking of
mini-machines...

Joel, Advanced Machinery Imports that sells the Hegners is right
near the
New Castle County airport where our plane is based. Do you want me
to check
it out for you. I know a couple of the people over there.
Take care,
John Renzetti
----- Original Message -----
From: Joel Cohen <Jcohen@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 1:29 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Speaking of mini-machines...


> Geoff,
>
> I may be interested in buying a Mark IV. Do you know anything
about the
one
> that is for sale (condition, price, options, etc)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joel (703-323-0919, x418) jcohen@...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Shepherd [SMTP:geoff@...]
> Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 1:28 PM
> To: felder-woodworking@...
> Subject: [felder-woodworking] Speaking of mini-machines...
>
> We were talking about Joel's Preac machines a little bit ago. Now
I
> remember what I saw at the ww show - it was a Hegner Accura Mark
IV
> combination machine. Looked like a tiny little Felder for doing
> small
> scale precision work, complete with a little sliding table if I
> recall
> correctly. I know of someone looking to sell one of these in CA to
> make
> room for a new lathe.
>
> ..Geoff
>
>
>
>
>
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> To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...
> To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
> felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...
>
>
>
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> Want to help promote education? Help kids learn to read? AND earn
> extra income? Join our affiliate program for the successful Hooked
> on Phonics product and you will do all three!
>
>
>
> eGroups.com home:
> - Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
>
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> To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...
> To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
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>
>
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> electronics, Home furnishings and more.
>
>
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>



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