Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- Felderownersgroup
- Messages
Search
|
Re: vault pictures...
Geoff Shepherd
Welcome, Philip!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
If you look in the background of the picture, it's that AF-22 dust collector that is responsible for the clean shop... any dust, chips, scraps, beer bottles, and small furry animals within 1/4 mile radius are promptly sucked up into that system. With the garage doors rolled up, we're talking more like 1/2 mile radius at that point. I can't wait to get mine wired in... I hope it will clean up the yard for me so I can do less yard work... ;-) -- ..Geoff ----- Original Message -----
From: Philip Tamarkin <tamarkin@...> Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 6:17 PM Subject: [felder-woodworking] vault pictures... ...John's shop is WAY too clean to be doing any real work! Looks like |
|
Re: vault pictures...
Philip Tamarkin
...sucks 'em all up, and dumps all the debris in the middle of MY shop!?
One of life's great mysteries solved - I always thought there was just
too much debris around here to come from me alone!? -P
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Geoff Shepherd wrote: Welcome, Philip! |
|
Re: uploaded file to vault
Geoff Shepherd
Hey John, nice pictures! So, you are going to build one of those workbenches
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
for each of the Charter List Members, right?? ;-) Hehehe... ;-) The bench looks fantastic with the drawer fronts installed. I think I remember you explaining to me once how you milled the finger joints on the bench top using your KF-7 shaper... did you use the slotting cutter for that? Maybe you could fill the group in on that... Yes, uploading to the vault is amazingly easy to do if you follow the on-screen instructions. -- Geoff Shepherd (list manager) mailto:Geoff@... Everett, WA BF6-31, AF-22 ----- Original Message -----
From: John Renzetti <j.renzetti@...> To: <felder-woodworking@...> Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 2:22 AM Subject: [felder-woodworking] uploaded file to vault Just uploaded a jpg file to the vault showing the bench I built, which |
|
Special of the month
Wolfgang Geiger
Since James Voos had such a great idea with the special of the month
and the poll shows you guys are interested in something like that I uploaded a folder in the vault with the "Special of the Month February 2000". This offer is exclusively available for members of the FELDER Owner's Group and will be updated every month. Wolfgang FELDER USA |
|
Re: Special of the month
Geoff Shepherd
Wow! Cool - thanks for doing that... you even put something on special that
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
has been near the top of my wish list. James - you now have the official magic touch with the surveys... so, what's the next one! :-) ..Geoff ----- Original Message -----
From: Wolfgang Geiger <wolfgang@...> Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 4:55 PM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Special of the month Since James Voos had such a great idea with the special of the month |
|
Articles uploaded
John Renzetti
I just made a new folder that has the newsletters I sent out plus an
article on installing 3 phase power in the shop, and some machine reviews. If anyone else would like to write a review of their machines please feel free to do so and upload them here. Also this would be a good place to put some tips. Art Pentz has given me some great ideas in the last couple of years, so maybe Art could write some of them up here. |
|
Official Welcome Wagon... (long)
Geoff Shepherd
Better grab a cup of coffee, I think this is going to be a little long...
I wanted to say "Welcome!" to all the members who have signed up to the new Felder Owner's Group over the last day or so. We are up to 28 members as of now with currently 17 invitations still unanswered. So, maybe in a few days we'll be up over 40 members. From there, I think this forum will take off beyond our expectations as word gets out to the many new, existing, and possibly prospective Felder/Hammer machine owners worldwide. Please feel free to invite other folks who might be interested in this forum. Anyone who wants to subscribe just needs to send a blank e-mail to: felder-woodworking-subscribe@... ... that's it. We can also send out special invitation e-mails from the member directory on the web site that make it even easier. First off, if you have any questions or problems with your forum membership, please visit our forum's web site at: ... in fact, bookmark that link (yes, that one, right there!) as it makes a great "portal" page for getting to our group's web site. If you need further assistance, send me an e-mail at mailto:Geoff@... ... In addition, as keeper of the original e-mail list prior to this forum, and Unofficial East-Coast Model Felder Super-Shiny-Floor-Woodshop/Five-Star Bed & Breakfast & Shop (how's that for a title, John), Mr. John Renzetti also has manager access to this forum and can help out as needed. However, this whole system is designed to let each member pretty much self-administer their own memberships, so check out that web site. It's fairly self-explanatory and tends to lead you by the nose through most tasks. Speaking of memberships, there has been a little bit of confusion between subscribing to this e-mail forum and having an official eGroups account. The latter is not required for the former, and for better or worse, simply subscribing to this e-mail forum doesn't automatically create an account for you on eGroups. A password-protected account on eGroups is required if you want to use many of our group's web site functions. Fortunately, the eGroups membership is free and very easy to set up. You can go to and create your account there, or from our group web site, there is a "Log In" button near the top right of the page. Also, it will give you the log in screen if you try to access one of the "members-only" features, so one way or another you'll be able to create an account. Once you have created your eGroups account (and if you have cookies enabled on your browser - most do by default), you won't have to log in again to use the web site unless you use the log out option or want to access the site from a different computer. The eGroup accounts are necessary to ensure that only our group's members have access to certain features, such as the member directory. Hope that makes some sense! It's easier done than described, I think! Along the thoughts of minor confusions, we found another interesting one yesterday. If you view the member directory at the web site, you might notice your e-mail address looks funny. Well, this is intentional. The eGroups system intentionally mangles the first part of your e-mail address to foil "spam-bots," programs that automatically surf the web harvesting e-mail addresses for junk mail purposes. Rest assured, if you are receiving this message, the system does indeed have your correct e-mail address stored internally. I didn't quite figure this one out at first, because as the "list owner," the e-mail addresses are shown in the clear to me. Wow - the Vault has turned out to be very popular already! This is where we can share pictures of our shops, machines, projects, drawings, etc... Any of us can upload to it, but please make sure to create your very own sub-folder to put your pictures in. That way, we don't end up with a big shoebox full of photos. Unfortunately, it is time consuming to move uploads to different folders after uploading, so it's best to upload to the right folder to begin with. We have 20MB of space available to us, so try to compress/scan your images to a reasonable size such as 50K or so. Since they take up less space (and download faster), JPEG images are preferred over GIF or BMP.. Also, after uploading take a moment to let the group know about your pictures and the descriptions. If you need help with uploading, contact John or myself... once you've done it once, it's surprisingly easy. If you don't have a digital camera (yet!), most photo developers now offer a "pictures on disc" option for a nominal fee. I used to use Seattle Filmworks (www.seattlefilmworks.com) before I had a digital camera. There are many places that will scan photos for you as well, and scanners are pretty cheap to buy these days. I'm sure there are folks on this group that are willing to scan a photo or two for other members. Lots of options there. What else.... it seems like the group was pretty quiet on the old e-mail list. I hope with the "community" feel this new forum provides that conversations will pick up a bit... so, don't hesitate to post a message to the group. That's what helps make this fun and worthwhile. Gotta question, a thought, a quandary, an improvement, a jig, need advice, or just want to gloat about a new machine or completed project? Post! I may post this message again next week or whenever we get a bunch of new members signed up. I apologize in advance for the repeats. And on that note.... Have a great weekend! -- Geoff Shepherd (list manager) mailto:Geoff@... Everett, WA BF6-31, AF-22 |
|
BF6-31 Question
Geoff Shepherd
I've had my '97 BF6-31 for almost two weeks now, and have been spending my
evenings cleaning up the machine and checking alignment. One thing I have noticed is that the fence when mounted on the in-feed jointer table can not allow use of the full width of the jointer... to hang on to the dovetail rail it uses up a few inches of available jointing width. One solution I heard was to not use the jointer fence at all when face-planing wide boards. I haven't really thought about whether that would have safety risks or not. I know there is a cast-iron "dovetail-on-dovetail" adapter piece which can be used to extend the dovetail rails a number of inches for ripping or jointing, but I was more impressed with the bolt-on "filler piece" available for the 7-series combos. Unfortunately, this bolt-on piece is not available for the 6-series, but by gosh it should be! It looks like there are even bolt holes ready for mounting just such a thing. Has anyone found a solution to this? Maybe having a machine shop mill a table extension just for this? If there was enough interest, maybe we could get several in the group together for a larger discounted order from a shop, or perhaps we could convince Felder to come out with this accessory for our machines. I'm assuming such an extension would not interfere with anything when tilting the tables up for planing... but maybe I've overlooked something. Thoughts, anyone? -- ..Geoff |
|
Chat room closed...
Geoff Shepherd
Folks... I'm going to disable this forum's supposedly "members-only" chat
room for now just so nobody runs into the same thing I did last evening and gets the wrong idea! I was under the impression that only our forum's members could participate in the chat room feature. Well, last night I left my browser in the chat room just in case any of our members dropped by. Imagine my surprise when I received a "private message" from someone not connected with our forum. I won't repeat the contents of the message here (not appropriate), but I had to laugh because it was just like some "evils of the internet" story we used to see on the 6-o'clock news a few years ago. I sent a complaint to eGroups management... seems like they need to work on some security issues with the forum chat rooms. In any case, we're not using it right now, so I see no harm in disabling it. Assuming they get it fixed, maybe in the future we could have a weekly chat evening or some such if enough folks were interested. -- Geoff Shepherd (list manger) mailto:Geoff@... |
|
Re: Chat room closed...
Geoff,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
How do I open the "vault", and the "Feb. special"? Thanx, John Geoff Shepherd wrote: Folks... I'm going to disable this forum's supposedly "members-only" chat |
|
Re: Opening the Vault...
Geoff Shepherd
John,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Point your web browser to: If you haven't yet set up a free account on the eGroups site, you'll be prompted to log in with a user name and password. Just follow the instructions for creating a new account (it's free). Once you have access to the forum's site, you should be able to get to the document vault via the above link. Right now it has four folders in it (and one unidentified flying JPG - anyone own that one?). One of the folders is "Special of the Month", and inside that is a MS-Word document called February_2000.doc. Click to download it. You'll need to have Microsoft Word installed to read it. Maybe someone could translate it to PDF format and upload it to the same directory... If that doesn't solve it for you, send me an e-mail and tell me where it's getting fouled up for you. BTW - Just in case you all are wondering why I am posting so many messages this evening... well, OK, I'm bored. I'm waiting for software to compile and load into an emulator here at work for testing and debugging, over and over again... ugh... I'd rather be making sawdust! Ah, the thrill of programming... -- Geoff ----- Original Message -----
From: Taylor <taylor911@...> Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 8:15 PM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Chat room closed... Geoff, |
|
Cutting dados
Geoff Shepherd
The following is a digest of a relatively recent thread on cutting dados
using Felder equipment. The original messages are separated by the double-hyphen mark. Sorry if I got any of the original author's names mixed up - I tried to copy these posts verbatim from my e-mail archive. By reposting this thread in the new forum, it will be accessible in the message archives at the forum's web site. ..Geoff -- From: John Renzetti Could any of you guys give me some info on how you cut dadoes. Do you use the saw, the shaper, or another piece of equipment altogether. I'd like to compare ideas. Thanks, John Renzetti -- From: arnoldman John, I use the saw, with the splitter lowered below the level of the blade top, and "nibble away" the dado if it's only about 3/8" or narrower. For wider dadoes, I use the high speed spindle with a straight cutting router bit, and the saw/jointer fence. Chuck -- From: James Voos This is the only thing I miss from my Delta Unisaw. I have used the high speed spindle with some CMT straight cutting bits, but I would say I have been less than thrilled with the results. For dadoes close to an edge, I have used the slot cutter on the shaper, which gives a very nice result. The folks at Felder recommend I pick up some panel routing bits from Hersaf in Atascadero, CA but I haven't done it as of yet. Certainly requires a bigger investment in bits, compared with the various shimming options that a dado blade provides. The other option, of course is to use a router with a cross cut guide. I thought you still had your Unisaw. Did that go away? jim -- From: Taylor John, Haven't got around to that yet. I must say, that was a major disappointment to learn that a dado blade could not be used on the Felder. Tom @ Felder told me, last year, there was a local machine shop that would mill a slot in the edge of the siding table to provide clearance for a dado blade. That would be a tuff option to swallow for me. Perhaps I'll try the Hersaf router bits that you told me about when I get to crossing that bridge? Would love to hear of any miracle ideas on this, too. best regards, taylor -- From: APGAR, Lee, GCM I have yet to take delivery of the machines that I ordered at the phiily show. I ordered the KF-7 x and the AD 7-51 and was told specifically that i would be able to use a dado setup..........hmmmmm! -- From: Charlie Norton This is embarrassing, but I have been cutting dadoes two ways: 1) With multiple passes of the saw blade. I know, I know, it is crude, takes forever and is prone to error, but for vertical dadoes, it is the only method I have used so far (for vertical dadoes). 2) For horizontal dadoes, I am using the Felder (Leitz) Adjustable Groover on the shaper. This works well, although I would suggest using the safety plates that drop down between the infeed and outfeed fence halves. I do not yet have this option (or the fence that is required) and I think it would reduce the scare factor when performing these cuts. I will probably get the Hersaf bits at some point for vertical cuts. Good Luck! Charlie Norton -- From: Geoff Shepherd John - For a clever router & guide rail approach, check out the "Fractioning Baseplate" idea in Bill Hylton's "Router Magic" book. I plan to try it. It basically multiplies your straight bit collection by a factor of four... ever try to shim a straight bit to make it a little wider? In effect, that's what this setup does. Check it out. While I do have a Forrest Dado-King (8"), I won't be able to use it on my BF6-31. I plan to move to router-made dado's using the high-speed spindle or a hand-held router as appropriate. I can always fall back on my Shopsmith if I really want to fire up the dado set, and there may be times where that will be useful so as not to disturb a particular setup on the Felder. ...Geoff (anxiously awaiting my BF6-31... and I will have my combined combination shop finally... hopefully this Sunday.) -- From: dolsid John: I have several ways. For stopped dados I use a plunge router with a jig consisting of a piece of 3/4 inch hard wood glued to 1/4 inch plywood. Guide the router base along the 3/4 wood with the bit of your choice to cut the plywood to size. Remember which side of the router is next to the guide since your base may not be centered. Use the edge of the plywood to position your dado. This jig can be used with a regular router for a ordinary dado. I use a router bit on the Felder router spindle when the precise depth is important. Also I have the option on the Felder for the dado. It is 3/8 of inch wide and you have to have your dado set drilled out to fit the 30mm arbor. I just got my dado set and made a bank insert so will try it out and let you know how it works. It is narrow but should work well for non-router bit widths and deep dados. I also have a Joint Tech fence on a router table which great when precise horizontal locations are needed. I will probably get a slot cutter for the shaper when I need to make very wide and deep dados(slots) e.g.. 2 inch by 3 inch. Finally I saved my regular CMT dado set and can use it on a regular table saw. -- From: Mike Crouch I use the shaper with the high speed router spindle installed. The bits I use are from Jesada tools out of Florida. I have had good luck with these bits thus far. I also built a jig that mounts to the back of the BF6-31 that have for dust collection. As much as I use this -- you would think Felder would build this as an accessory. -- ### |
|
Re: BF6-31 Question
Paul Jordan
Geoff
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
My old Robland X31 had this same issue. I just face jointed without the fence. For stock that's near the max cutter width you just need to make sure you don't "wander off the table" while you feed, but in practice this was never a problem - it's alot easier than you'd imagine, and I face jointed plenty of near 12" boards. Use the guard as well. P. ----- Original Message -----
From: Geoff Shepherd <geoff@...> To: <felder-woodworking@...> Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 10:05 PM Subject: [felder-woodworking] BF6-31 Question I've had my '97 BF6-31 for almost two weeks now, and have been spending mynot allow use of the full width of the jointer |
|
Congratulations to the group!
Art Pentz
Hi there! I'm not having much luck posting to this group - four
lengthy messages have disappeared as I typed them - where do they go? Anyway, I'm glad to be able to communicate with everyone so "easily". I live near Greensboro, NC where there will be an industrial woodworking show on Feb 18 + 19th. If you can attend let me know and I'll meet you there. I presently own a KF-7 (saw /shaper) with most of the "excessories" - it's a slippery slope! I am enrolled full time in a Fine Woodworking degree program at RCC and thus spend quite a bit of time in the shop. Woodworking is a new pursuit for me and I had no idea how seductive it would be. My present school project is a bowfront dresser with twelve drawers - that's a lot of tenons for drawer rails etc. Which brings me to this months' special that Wolfgang has so graciously offered the group. I use this cutter for all my tenon work. By using a sacrificial fence (3/8")over the shaper fences and a wood crosscut fence to act as a backer I slide the tenon stock over the cutter and back to create each cheek. I found that the carvers - the square cutters on top of the cutterhead - were too proud of the shoulder so I ground down one point on each of the top carvers. The result is hundreds of perfect tenons up to 1" in length. Be sure to use the sacrificial fence to prevent the cutter from pulling the stock into the shaper fence opening. E-mail me if you have any questions. My two pet peeves with my Felder machine (besides the lack of dado capability) are the really crappy design of the router spindle collet nut (I use a strap wrench rather than the pin spanner) and the difficulty in ripping long narrow stock due to the inability to support the stock easily on the infeed side. These two issues bother me every day since I change router bits often and frequently rip stock for ledger strips etc. Well, enough bitching! After using the large array of machines at school I realized how spoiled I was since my first tablesaw/shaper was a Felder! There are several tablesaws with sliding tables at school (excalibur etc.) which are notorious among the students for being unreliable. Felder would do well to address this market since most of the students will be opening their own shops upon graduation. I look forward to hearing everyones'tips etc. And let's help Felder understand the requirements of the American woodworker. PS - let me know if there is some way to start a new paragraph easily when posting to the group. |
|
Re: BF6-31 Question
Seth Honeyman
Geoff,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I am a brand new BF6-31 owner and the jointer/planer was the first function I used. I had some pretty wide boards to face joint and I just did without the fence. After one small opening error, I had no problem at all doing the jointing. (Red-faced admission here - the first time I tried it, I had the function set to mortising instead of planing/jointing - does not work big time!) Regards - Seth ----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Jordan <jordanpaul@...> To: <felder-woodworking@...> Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 9:28 AM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: BF6-31 Question Geoffmy haveevenings cleaning up the machine and checking alignment. One thing I felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...noticed is that the fence when mounted on the in-feed jointer table cannotallow use of the full width of the jointer
|
|
Re: BF6-31 Question
Charlie Norton
Hey! I made the same mistake, only I compounded my embarrassment by calling
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Felder and reported that the planer arbor was spinning backward! Fortunately, they contained their laughter long enough to politely suggest that the switch might be in the wrong position. -----Original Message-----
From: Seth Honeyman <sdhoneyman@...> To: felder-woodworking@... <felder-woodworking@...> Date: Saturday, February 12, 2000 8:11 AM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: BF6-31 Question Geoff,the jointing. (Red-faced admission here - the first time I tried it, I had thethis felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...was never a problem - it's alot easier than you'd imagine, and I facemy
|
|
Re: Cutting dados
Joel Cohen
I bought the Hersaf bits and they have done a good job. Not quite the
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
quality of my old Firrest Daodo blade. Joel -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Shepherd [SMTP:geoff@...] Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 12:20 AM To: felder-woodworking@... Subject: [felder-woodworking] Cutting dados The following is a digest of a relatively recent thread on cutting dados using Felder equipment. The original messages are separated by the double-hyphen mark. Sorry if I got any of the original author's names mixed up - I tried to copy these posts verbatim from my e-mail archive. By reposting this thread in the new forum, it will be accessible in the message archives at the forum's web site. ..Geoff -- From: John Renzetti Could any of you guys give me some info on how you cut dadoes. Do you use the saw, the shaper, or another piece of equipment altogether. I'd like to compare ideas. Thanks, John Renzetti -- From: arnoldman John, I use the saw, with the splitter lowered below the level of the blade top, and "nibble away" the dado if it's only about 3/8" or narrower. For wider dadoes, I use the high speed spindle with a straight cutting router bit, and the saw/jointer fence. Chuck -- From: James Voos This is the only thing I miss from my Delta Unisaw. I have used the high speed spindle with some CMT straight cutting bits, but I would say I have been less than thrilled with the results. For dadoes close to an edge, I have used the slot cutter on the shaper, which gives a very nice result. The folks at Felder recommend I pick up some panel routing bits from Hersaf in Atascadero, CA but I haven't done it as of yet. Certainly requires a bigger investment in bits, compared with the various shimming options that a dado blade provides. The other option, of course is to use a router with a cross cut guide. I thought you still had your Unisaw. Did that go away? jim -- From: Taylor John, Haven't got around to that yet. I must say, that was a major disappointment to learn that a dado blade could not be used on the Felder. Tom @ Felder told me, last year, there was a local machine shop that would mill a slot in the edge of the siding table to provide clearance for a dado blade. That would be a tuff option to swallow for me. Perhaps I'll try the Hersaf router bits that you told me about when I get to crossing that bridge? Would love to hear of any miracle ideas on this, too. best regards, taylor -- From: APGAR, Lee, GCM I have yet to take delivery of the machines that I ordered at the phiily show. I ordered the KF-7 x and the AD 7-51 and was told specifically that i would be able to use a dado setup..........hmmmmm! -- From: Charlie Norton This is embarrassing, but I have been cutting dadoes two ways: 1) With multiple passes of the saw blade. I know, I know, it is crude, takes forever and is prone to error, but for vertical dadoes, it is the only method I have used so far (for vertical dadoes). 2) For horizontal dadoes, I am using the Felder (Leitz) Adjustable Groover on the shaper. This works well, although I would suggest using the safety plates that drop down between the infeed and outfeed fence halves. I do not yet have this option (or the fence that is required) and I think it would reduce the scare factor when performing these cuts. I will probably get the Hersaf bits at some point for vertical cuts. Good Luck! Charlie Norton -- From: Geoff Shepherd John - For a clever router & guide rail approach, check out the "Fractioning Baseplate" idea in Bill Hylton's "Router Magic" book. I plan to try it. It basically multiplies your straight bit collection by a factor of four... ever try to shim a straight bit to make it a little wider? In effect, that's what this setup does. Check it out. While I do have a Forrest Dado-King (8"), I won't be able to use it on my BF6-31. I plan to move to router-made dado's using the high-speed spindle or a hand-held router as appropriate. I can always fall back on my Shopsmith if I really want to fire up the dado set, and there may be times where that will be useful so as not to disturb a particular setup on the Felder. ...Geoff (anxiously awaiting my BF6-31... and I will have my combined combination shop finally... hopefully this Sunday.) -- From: dolsid John: I have several ways. For stopped dados I use a plunge router with a jig consisting of a piece of 3/4 inch hard wood glued to 1/4 inch plywood. Guide the router base along the 3/4 wood with the bit of your choice to cut the plywood to size. Remember which side of the router is next to the guide since your base may not be centered. Use the edge of the plywood to position your dado. This jig can be used with a regular router for a ordinary dado. I use a router bit on the Felder router spindle when the precise depth is important. Also I have the option on the Felder for the dado. It is 3/8 of inch wide and you have to have your dado set drilled out to fit the 30mm arbor. I just got my dado set and made a bank insert so will try it out and let you know how it works. It is narrow but should work well for non-router bit widths and deep dados. I also have a Joint Tech fence on a router table which great when precise horizontal locations are needed. I will probably get a slot cutter for the shaper when I need to make very wide and deep dados(slots) e.g.. 2 inch by 3 inch. Finally I saved my regular CMT dado set and can use it on a regular table saw. -- From: Mike Crouch I use the shaper with the high speed router spindle installed. The bits I use are from Jesada tools out of Florida. I have had good luck with these bits thus far. I also built a jig that mounts to the back of the BF6-31 that have for dust collection. As much as I use this -- you would think Felder would build this as an accessory. -- ### ------------------------------------------------------------------------ To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@... To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@... ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eLerts! Save cash today! -- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault -- |
|
BF7-41 jointer/planer question
PAUL LAPIERRE
开云体育Hello everyone,
Before I get to my question, I'd like to say thanks to Geoff
for getting this forum going. No doubt this will be a really popular
place.
Secondly, I recently posted a message on Badger Pond having to
do with a alignment problem on my jointer after having moved it . Thanks to
Charlie, John R., and Geoff for your input and advice. So far the solution seems
to be re-adjusting the machine if necessary whenever the thing is moved. Not the
best of all possible solutions, but there it is. The response to my posting was
very quick on the part of Felder USA. Wolfgang called me at about 9AM my time to
try to solve the problem. After?checking the tightness of some bolts and
set screws, and further discussion with John Hartschorn, the immediate solution
is as stated above.John will be coming to my shop after the?Mid-Atlantic
show to thoroughly check out my machine. I have to say, the folks at Felder USA
make every effort to make things right!
OK, now for today's problem. This?is probably related to
having moved the machine also. because ever since the planer has not fed stock
very well, if at all. I've spoken with John H. and he gave me the set-up specs
for the in-and out-feed rollers and for the compression springs above
them.?The rollers were at their correct settings and I've set the springs
as per John's recommendation, but the #%@$ thing still won't feed. I've adjusted
the spring tension in very small increments, and it comes close to feeding, but
I still end up pushing? and pulling the stock through. It's Saturday, I
can't get ahold of John, I'm in the middle of work that has to be delivered next
Friday and I'm really frustrated. Anyone out there had a similar problem, or any
ideas? that I haven't tried? You have my eternal gratitude and a free
dinner if you have a solution that works.
Thanks to all, and I look forward to meeting some of you 9in
the future
?Regards Paul??
|
to navigate to use esc to dismiss