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Re: Drawer slide recommendations
Glad it helped. ?I recommend you also try the Wurth Assy Plus screws. ?I use them all the time for cabinet construction. ?No cam-out Torx drive, self drilling, self countersinking, will not snap off, etc. ?They are as tough as GRK flathead screws, but smaller diameter so easier to drive into hardwood and Baltic birch ply with less splitting. ?
|
David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Jan 9, 2025, at 1:38?PM, John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
?
David Best - the Wurth Louis suggestion was great, I even got a free t-shirt from them!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
Re: Does anyone know the name of the round feature in this Chinese room partition?
Bill,
I had a business trip to Harbin a long time ago. Fantastic, you can go to a lot of places a month in China. You already have the tour guide:)?
James
Hi James,
Thanks for the assist! It will take some time to dig through Su Embroidery. My fiancee is from Harbin, but I think we might be able to make a side trip ;)? We're planning on going for a month next year.?
?
Bill
?
--
-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer
|
Re: Does anyone know the name of the round feature in this Chinese room partition?
Hi James,
Thanks for the assist! It will take some time to dig through Su Embroidery. My fiancee is from Harbin, but I think we might be able to make a side trip ;)? We're planning on going for a month next year.?
?
Bill
?
--
-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer
|
Re: Drawer slide recommendations
David Best - the Wurth Louis suggestion was great, I even got a free t-shirt from them!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
|
Re: Cf741s-fine cut blade leaving ripples in Pear.
Colum,
Thanks for the follow-up. Glad you are up and running.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 9, 2025, at 5:18?AM, Colum via groups.io <colum@...> wrote: ?
Hi
Quick update, It was in fact the toe out issue with the blade and we needed to nudge the slider away circa 0.2mm. This was done by opening the top 7 nuts on the slider, leaving the first infeed side one fixed and adjusting the slider (by mallet & some back
and forth). I contacted a Felder Tech that I knew in France who walked through the various issues first on what's app. (dirt on Arbour, dull blade etc) and we settled that the toe out was then the issue (-0.15), so we adjusted to +0.08mm, and got end grain
cuts that are quite frankly like glass. Interesting the Factory Calibration report had it in tolerance, so the slider must have got a nudge somewhere along the journey to UAE.
So we will retire the shooting boards and hand planes for a while longer:-).
We are noticing a slight concave in the cut across the boards, which is a little strange as they are plum cuts!. But with this finish we are confident that we can close this is the glue ups.
All the best
Colum
Colum,
“We are going to look at the toe out issue”
I don’t want to tell you what to do but I suggest you follow the investigation logically and from least to most invasive.
You have not shared what you have done so far.?Maybe, you have checked the blade markings and determined that toe out is indeed the case. However, if the riving knife is misadjusted the
marking may, erroneously, look like toe out issue. So I would at least eliminate the riving knife as a possible contributor.
Again, if you share a picture that would be very helpful.
On Jan 8, 2025, at 1:09?AM, Colum via groups.io <colum@...> wrote:
?
Thanks to everyone how has contributed. We are going to look at the toe out issue and see if we can nudge the slider as Daid mentions in his Survival Publication...Wish us luck !.
On the machine v hand tool, I too am keen to use hand tools as much as possible, but in fine furniture i try and exhaust the Felder Equipment to its limits as much as possible before we make use on my Lie Nelson Hand Planes!.
Will let you know what is the outcome shortly, but thanks again for the solid info.
Br
Colum
Coloum?I have 2 blades that do exactly?as you described, doesn't?matter how far up or down the blade is.
I've put it down?to the blade being out of balance.
On Tue, 7 Jan 2025 at 17:27, Christopher Rozycki via
<croz1950= [email protected]> wrote:
I get that totally! I just find it more satisfying to work with the wood rather than fuss with the machine.
So a little error off the machine can be quickly resolved with a hand plane or other appropriate tool.?
Also, I am not using my machines to generate income, which might make a big difference.
Chris Rozycki?
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:09?AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
?I can glue panels straight from the saw. I have done it for shop items and other non-critical glue-ups. Jointing edges prior to glue up on jointer does give a very nice flat surface but in the end I am not sure if it adds anything more than
mental satisfaction.
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:03?AM, Christopher Rozycki via <croz1950= [email protected]> wrote:
?Sorry to all the machine-heads here, but isn’t this why we use hand planes? Just wondering?
?I never trust an edge straight off the saw… any saw. Just sayin.
Chris Rozycki?
On Jan 6, 2025, at 10:48?AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
?
I assume these blades used to cut fine and you have them both sharpened, so my first thought would be to try another blade and see what happens.
Moving on, you are xcutting material clamped to the slider and getting ripples on the endgrain. A picture would be very helpful, so I am assuming that you are not getting blade arc impressions which you could get with improper toe out. This is easy to
tell as the arc of leading edge of the blade is opposite to the trailing edge, concave vs convex.
Are you making a trim cut where only the left side of blade is in the wood? If so try to cut where you have couple of inches of cutoff and examine both pieces.
You should check the splitter is adjusted properly. You could also remove it and make a test cut with clamped material. This will eliminate the splitter as a contributor.
I am no expert but I try to remove as many contributors as possible. For grins, I would also change material type or at least try another piece of wood.
?
Hi
?
have a resharpened Leitz and Felder 96 tooth ATB blades on the saw and it’s leaving some ripples on the end grain cuts.
?
Arbor is clean, no dust particles between it and blades and blades sound normal to the ear. No describable wobble.
?
its running at 25mm above the bed with good clearance on the blades gullets.
any thoughts suggestions.
?
stock is also clamped so no movement laterally on the slider.
?
many thanks in advance for your replies.
?
colum o Donovan?
dubai and chamonix
?
--
Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener información privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilización, divulgación y/o copia sin autorización
está prohibida en virtud de la legislación vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma vía y proceda a su destrucción.
This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
|
Re: How much pressure does your pin nailer require?
Thanks Jonathan. Actually 18ga brads (less likely with 15 or 16 ga nail) can also come out the side if shot near the edge. This is much more likely if they are shot with chisel end along the grain causing the brad to follow the grain. Instead if the chisel end is perpendicular to the grain, it cuts thru the grain fiber and goes straight.
The easiest way for me to remember, the brad could bend towards either side as it sits in the magazine but not towards front or back. So nailing near an edge the nose or rear of the nailer should point to the edge. If the magazine is in line with the edge being nailed, the blowout is possible.
HTH,
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Show quoted text
On Jan 9, 2025, at 1:40?AM, jontathan samways via groups.io <jonathansamways@...> wrote: ? Imran don't think this will be of help as my nailers are European.....but I have had a SIMES SA-F6-30 for many years. On the odd?occasion a pin wont sink if its hit a knot or some hard grain. Also if you're pinning close to the edge keep your fingers away as I've had pins hit a knot below the surface and decided to come out sideways, this is the only problem when you're using the very thin 23ga nails. I must confess I also have the 18v Ryobi 23ga airstrike.....not used it that much so can't comment on its merits other than its a sweetheart if you're working away from the shop....my pet hate is transporting compressors! On Thu, 9 Jan 2025 at 05:19, David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: Watch this.
Here we go again, LOL On Jan 8, 2025, at 10:38?PM, David Davies via <myfinishingtouch= [email protected]> wrote: ? It's the wrong color.? For Imran to upgrade doesn't it need to be a different color? Dave Davies On Wed, Jan 8, 2025 at 9:26?PM David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: I have never had issues with my Omer PR.30 pin nailer not sinking the heads even in hardwoods.? I HAVE had issues with my Grex 21 gauge nailer sinking heads consistently.? Consider upgrading:
Hi Mike,
No I did not try that and Grex did not recommend it. It is boxed up now to go back.?
BTW, what I shared here was after it was reviewed by Grex. The smaller body is good for maybe 3/4” in hardwood and probably works fine in softwoods to 1 3/8”.
The bigger body is not that much bigger, so I prefer that solution. I am getting a pinner so I have small holes and if it can’t reliably do that then it is annoying. The larger body drives 2” pins, so it will likely do 1 3/8”. ? Hello Imran,
?
Have you tried ?pressing one hand down on the ‘head’, while pulling the trigger with the other??
My old Senco pinner requires this on longer pins, and especially 1 1/2” in hardwoods.? Extra
head mass helps overcome the recoil.? If the countersink is too shallow, I grind a 1/16” off the
’nose’ of the tool, as well as the ‘wings’ of the driver blade.? And remember, most manufacturers overestimate driving ranges on smaller air pinners/nailers..
?
When all else fails, get a larger pinner…..
?
Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors?
?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
-- Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener información privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilización, divulgación y/o copia sin autorización está prohibida en virtud de la legislación vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma vía y proceda a su destrucción. This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
|
Interesting update on this table project. I've successfully dodged a bullet. In my research, I discovered the original photo I attached is built by an Interior Designer job shop in Wisconsin just a couple of hours from me. I called them up and asked if they would sell me the base, and they said sure no problem. Just needed to go through the proper channels having the designer on my project contact the showroom and get a quote. I figured since they already make it, it would be cheaper than what I could do it for. Quote came back $6800 for the unfinished base in walnut. Ouch! I bid $7500 for the complete table...In further conversation with the clients, it became apparent that they did not care enough what this base looks like for me to reinvent the conical elliptical scalloped wheel. I presented a few less complicated versions for them to choose from. Awaiting their response. It would have been fun to build, but not fun enough to lose my ass.
?
Jason
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Cf741s-fine cut blade leaving ripples in Pear.
Hi
Quick update, It was in fact the toe out issue with the blade and we needed to nudge the slider away circa 0.2mm. This was done by opening the top 7 nuts on the slider, leaving the first infeed side one fixed and adjusting the slider (by mallet & some back
and forth). I contacted a Felder Tech that I knew in France who walked through the various issues first on what's app. (dirt on Arbour, dull blade etc) and we settled that the toe out was then the issue (-0.15), so we adjusted to +0.08mm, and got end grain
cuts that are quite frankly like glass. Interesting the Factory Calibration report had it in tolerance, so the slider must have got a nudge somewhere along the journey to UAE.
So we will retire the shooting boards and hand planes for a while longer:-).
We are noticing a slight concave in the cut across the boards, which is a little strange as they are plum cuts!. But with this finish we are confident that we can close this is the glue ups.
All the best
Colum
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Colum,
“We are going to look at the toe out issue”
I don’t want to tell you what to do but I suggest you follow the investigation logically and from least to most invasive.
You have not shared what you have done so far.?Maybe, you have checked the blade markings and determined that toe out is indeed the case. However, if the riving knife is misadjusted the
marking may, erroneously, look like toe out issue. So I would at least eliminate the riving knife as a possible contributor.
Again, if you share a picture that would be very helpful.
On Jan 8, 2025, at 1:09?AM, Colum via groups.io <colum@...> wrote:
?
Thanks to everyone how has contributed. We are going to look at the toe out issue and see if we can nudge the slider as Daid mentions in his Survival Publication...Wish us luck !.
On the machine v hand tool, I too am keen to use hand tools as much as possible, but in fine furniture i try and exhaust the Felder Equipment to its limits as much as possible before we make use on my Lie Nelson Hand Planes!.
Will let you know what is the outcome shortly, but thanks again for the solid info.
Br
Colum
Coloum?I have 2 blades that do exactly?as you described, doesn't?matter how far up or down the blade is.
I've put it down?to the blade being out of balance.
On Tue, 7 Jan 2025 at 17:27, Christopher Rozycki via
<croz1950= [email protected]> wrote:
I get that totally! I just find it more satisfying to work with the wood rather than fuss with the machine.
So a little error off the machine can be quickly resolved with a hand plane or other appropriate tool.?
Also, I am not using my machines to generate income, which might make a big difference.
Chris Rozycki?
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:09?AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
?I can glue panels straight from the saw. I have done it for shop items and other non-critical glue-ups. Jointing edges prior to glue up on jointer does give a very nice flat surface but in the end I am not sure if it adds anything more than
mental satisfaction.
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:03?AM, Christopher Rozycki via <croz1950= [email protected]> wrote:
?Sorry to all the machine-heads here, but isn’t this why we use hand planes? Just wondering?
?I never trust an edge straight off the saw… any saw. Just sayin.
Chris Rozycki?
On Jan 6, 2025, at 10:48?AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
?
I assume these blades used to cut fine and you have them both sharpened, so my first thought would be to try another blade and see what happens.
Moving on, you are xcutting material clamped to the slider and getting ripples on the endgrain. A picture would be very helpful, so I am assuming that you are not getting blade arc impressions which you could get with improper toe out. This is easy to
tell as the arc of leading edge of the blade is opposite to the trailing edge, concave vs convex.
Are you making a trim cut where only the left side of blade is in the wood? If so try to cut where you have couple of inches of cutoff and examine both pieces.
You should check the splitter is adjusted properly. You could also remove it and make a test cut with clamped material. This will eliminate the splitter as a contributor.
I am no expert but I try to remove as many contributors as possible. For grins, I would also change material type or at least try another piece of wood.
?
Hi
?
have a resharpened Leitz and Felder 96 tooth ATB blades on the saw and it’s leaving some ripples on the end grain cuts.
?
Arbor is clean, no dust particles between it and blades and blades sound normal to the ear. No describable wobble.
?
its running at 25mm above the bed with good clearance on the blades gullets.
any thoughts suggestions.
?
stock is also clamped so no movement laterally on the slider.
?
many thanks in advance for your replies.
?
colum o Donovan?
dubai and chamonix
?
--
Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener información privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilización, divulgación y/o copia sin autorización
está prohibida en virtud de la legislación vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma vía y proceda a su destrucción.
This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
|
Re: How much pressure does your pin nailer require?
Imran don't think this will be of help as my nailers are European.....but I have had a SIMES SA-F6-30 for many years. On the odd?occasion a pin wont sink if its hit a knot or some hard grain. Also if you're pinning close to the edge keep your fingers away as I've had pins hit a knot below the surface and decided to come out sideways, this is the only problem when you're using the very thin 23ga nails. I must confess I also have the 18v Ryobi 23ga airstrike.....not used it that much so can't comment on its merits other than its a sweetheart if you're working away from the shop....my pet hate is transporting compressors!
On Thu, 9 Jan 2025 at 05:19, David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: Watch this.
Here we go again, LOL On Jan 8, 2025, at 10:38?PM, David Davies via <myfinishingtouch= [email protected]> wrote: ? It's the wrong color.? For Imran to upgrade doesn't it need to be a different color? Dave Davies On Wed, Jan 8, 2025 at 9:26?PM David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: I have never had issues with my Omer PR.30 pin nailer not sinking the heads even in hardwoods.? I HAVE had issues with my Grex 21 gauge nailer sinking heads consistently.? Consider upgrading:
Hi Mike,
No I did not try that and Grex did not recommend it. It is boxed up now to go back.?
BTW, what I shared here was after it was reviewed by Grex. The smaller body is good for maybe 3/4” in hardwood and probably works fine in softwoods to 1 3/8”.
The bigger body is not that much bigger, so I prefer that solution. I am getting a pinner so I have small holes and if it can’t reliably do that then it is annoying. The larger body drives 2” pins, so it will likely do 1 3/8”. ? Hello Imran,
?
Have you tried ?pressing one hand down on the ‘head’, while pulling the trigger with the other??
My old Senco pinner requires this on longer pins, and especially 1 1/2” in hardwoods.? Extra
head mass helps overcome the recoil.? If the countersink is too shallow, I grind a 1/16” off the
’nose’ of the tool, as well as the ‘wings’ of the driver blade.? And remember, most manufacturers overestimate driving ranges on smaller air pinners/nailers..
?
When all else fails, get a larger pinner…..
?
Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors?
?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
-- Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener información privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilización, divulgación y/o copia sin autorización está prohibida en virtud de la legislación vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma vía y proceda a su destrucción. This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
|
Re: How much pressure does your pin nailer require?
Watch this.
https://youtube.com/shorts/Gong0ivu9XE?si=G7usN_T7Q8eKqzrH
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 8, 2025, at 7:40?PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Here we go again, LOL
On Jan 8, 2025, at 10:38?PM, David Davies via groups.io <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? It's the wrong color.? For Imran to upgrade doesn't it need to be a different color? Dave Davies On Wed, Jan 8, 2025 at 9:26?PM David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: I have never had issues with my Omer PR.30 pin nailer not sinking the heads even in hardwoods.? I HAVE had issues with my Grex 21 gauge nailer sinking heads consistently.? Consider upgrading:
Hi Mike,
No I did not try that and Grex did not recommend it. It is boxed up now to go back.?
BTW, what I shared here was after it was reviewed by Grex. The smaller body is good for maybe 3/4” in hardwood and probably works fine in softwoods to 1 3/8”.
The bigger body is not that much bigger, so I prefer that solution. I am getting a pinner so I have small holes and if it can’t reliably do that then it is annoying. The larger body drives 2” pins, so it will likely do 1 3/8”. ? Hello Imran,
?
Have you tried ?pressing one hand down on the ‘head’, while pulling the trigger with the other??
My old Senco pinner requires this on longer pins, and especially 1 1/2” in hardwoods.? Extra
head mass helps overcome the recoil.? If the countersink is too shallow, I grind a 1/16” off the
’nose’ of the tool, as well as the ‘wings’ of the driver blade.? And remember, most manufacturers overestimate driving ranges on smaller air pinners/nailers..
?
When all else fails, get a larger pinner…..
?
Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors?
?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: How much pressure does your pin nailer require?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 8, 2025, at 10:38?PM, David Davies via groups.io <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote: ? It's the wrong color.? For Imran to upgrade doesn't it need to be a different color? Dave Davies On Wed, Jan 8, 2025 at 9:26?PM David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: I have never had issues with my Omer PR.30 pin nailer not sinking the heads even in hardwoods.? I HAVE had issues with my Grex 21 gauge nailer sinking heads consistently.? Consider upgrading:
Hi Mike,
No I did not try that and Grex did not recommend it. It is boxed up now to go back.?
BTW, what I shared here was after it was reviewed by Grex. The smaller body is good for maybe 3/4” in hardwood and probably works fine in softwoods to 1 3/8”.
The bigger body is not that much bigger, so I prefer that solution. I am getting a pinner so I have small holes and if it can’t reliably do that then it is annoying. The larger body drives 2” pins, so it will likely do 1 3/8”. ? Hello Imran,
?
Have you tried ?pressing one hand down on the ‘head’, while pulling the trigger with the other??
My old Senco pinner requires this on longer pins, and especially 1 1/2” in hardwoods.? Extra
head mass helps overcome the recoil.? If the countersink is too shallow, I grind a 1/16” off the
’nose’ of the tool, as well as the ‘wings’ of the driver blade.? And remember, most manufacturers overestimate driving ranges on smaller air pinners/nailers..
?
When all else fails, get a larger pinner…..
?
Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors?
?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: How much pressure does your pin nailer require?
Thanks David. I am considering other brands.
Appreciate if others share good/bad experiences with 23 ga pin nailers.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 8, 2025, at 10:26?PM, David P. Best via groups.io <dbestworkshop@...> wrote: ? I have never had issues with my Omer PR.30 pin nailer not sinking the heads even in hardwoods. ?I HAVE had issues with my Grex 21 gauge nailer sinking heads consistently. ?Consider upgrading:
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jan 8, 2025, at 7:16?PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Hi Mike,
No I did not try that and Grex did not recommend it. It is boxed up now to go back.?
BTW, what I shared here was after it was reviewed by Grex. The smaller body is good for maybe 3/4” in hardwood and probably works fine in softwoods to 1 3/8”.
The bigger body is not that much bigger, so I prefer that solution. I am getting a pinner so I have small holes and if it can’t reliably do that then it is annoying. The larger body drives 2” pins, so it will likely do 1 3/8”.
On Jan 8, 2025, at 9:21?PM, Mike Blake via groups.io <me.blake@...> wrote:
? Hello Imran,
?
Have you tried ?pressing one hand down on the ‘head’, while pulling the trigger with the other??
My old Senco pinner requires this on longer pins, and especially 1 1/2” in hardwoods. ?Extra
head mass helps overcome the recoil. ?If the countersink is too shallow, I grind a 1/16” off the
’nose’ of the tool, as well as the ‘wings’ of the driver blade. ?And remember, most manufacturers overestimate driving ranges on smaller air pinners/nailers..
?
When all else fails, get a larger pinner…..
?
Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors?
?
|
Re: How much pressure does your pin nailer require?
It's the wrong color.? For Imran to upgrade doesn't it need to be a different color? Dave Davies
On Wed, Jan 8, 2025 at 9:26?PM David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: I have never had issues with my Omer PR.30 pin nailer not sinking the heads even in hardwoods.? I HAVE had issues with my Grex 21 gauge nailer sinking heads consistently.? Consider upgrading:
Hi Mike,
No I did not try that and Grex did not recommend it. It is boxed up now to go back.?
BTW, what I shared here was after it was reviewed by Grex. The smaller body is good for maybe 3/4” in hardwood and probably works fine in softwoods to 1 3/8”.
The bigger body is not that much bigger, so I prefer that solution. I am getting a pinner so I have small holes and if it can’t reliably do that then it is annoying. The larger body drives 2” pins, so it will likely do 1 3/8”. ? Hello Imran,
?
Have you tried ?pressing one hand down on the ‘head’, while pulling the trigger with the other??
My old Senco pinner requires this on longer pins, and especially 1 1/2” in hardwoods.? Extra
head mass helps overcome the recoil.? If the countersink is too shallow, I grind a 1/16” off the
’nose’ of the tool, as well as the ‘wings’ of the driver blade.? And remember, most manufacturers overestimate driving ranges on smaller air pinners/nailers..
?
When all else fails, get a larger pinner…..
?
Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors?
?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: How much pressure does your pin nailer require?
I have never had issues with my Omer PR.30 pin nailer not sinking the heads even in hardwoods. ?I HAVE had issues with my Grex 21 gauge nailer sinking heads consistently. ?Consider upgrading:
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 8, 2025, at 7:16?PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Hi Mike,
No I did not try that and Grex did not recommend it. It is boxed up now to go back.?
BTW, what I shared here was after it was reviewed by Grex. The smaller body is good for maybe 3/4” in hardwood and probably works fine in softwoods to 1 3/8”.
The bigger body is not that much bigger, so I prefer that solution. I am getting a pinner so I have small holes and if it can’t reliably do that then it is annoying. The larger body drives 2” pins, so it will likely do 1 3/8”.
On Jan 8, 2025, at 9:21?PM, Mike Blake via groups.io <me.blake@...> wrote:
? Hello Imran,
?
Have you tried ?pressing one hand down on the ‘head’, while pulling the trigger with the other??
My old Senco pinner requires this on longer pins, and especially 1 1/2” in hardwoods. ?Extra
head mass helps overcome the recoil. ?If the countersink is too shallow, I grind a 1/16” off the
’nose’ of the tool, as well as the ‘wings’ of the driver blade. ?And remember, most manufacturers overestimate driving ranges on smaller air pinners/nailers..
?
When all else fails, get a larger pinner…..
?
Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors?
?
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Re: How much pressure does your pin nailer require?
Hi Mike,
No I did not try that and Grex did not recommend it. It is boxed up now to go back.?
BTW, what I shared here was after it was reviewed by Grex. The smaller body is good for maybe 3/4” in hardwood and probably works fine in softwoods to 1 3/8”.
The bigger body is not that much bigger, so I prefer that solution. I am getting a pinner so I have small holes and if it can’t reliably do that then it is annoying. The larger body drives 2” pins, so it will likely do 1 3/8”.
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On Jan 8, 2025, at 9:21?PM, Mike Blake via groups.io <me.blake@...> wrote: ? Hello Imran,
?
Have you tried ?pressing one hand down on the ‘head’, while pulling the trigger with the other??
My old Senco pinner requires this on longer pins, and especially 1 1/2” in hardwoods. ?Extra
head mass helps overcome the recoil. ?If the countersink is too shallow, I grind a 1/16” off the
’nose’ of the tool, as well as the ‘wings’ of the driver blade. ?And remember, most manufacturers overestimate driving ranges on smaller air pinners/nailers..
?
When all else fails, get a larger pinner…..
?
Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors?
?
|
Re: How much pressure does your pin nailer require?
Hello Imran,
?
Have you tried ?pressing one hand down on the ‘head’, while pulling the trigger with the other??
My old Senco pinner requires this on longer pins, and especially 1 1/2” in hardwoods. ?Extra
head mass helps overcome the recoil. ?If the countersink is too shallow, I grind a 1/16” off the
’nose’ of the tool, as well as the ‘wings’ of the driver blade. ?And remember, most manufacturers overestimate driving ranges on smaller air pinners/nailers..
?
When all else fails, get a larger pinner…..
?
Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors?
?
|
Re: Free Saw-Stop table saw offered in San Francisco Bay Area.
Philip,
?
This could be a legitimate case of ? give forward ?… or a scam. Be careful.
?
Regards,
?
Jacques
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Re: Free Saw-Stop table saw offered in San Francisco Bay Area.
Sorry folk,
The lady who contacted me about free saw is actually in Vermont, not S.F. Bay Area. ?I just assumed she was local as she contacted me. ?Anyone in the Vermont area for a free piece of machinery?
Thank you,
Philip Snyder, pswoodworking.com
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Re: Free Saw-Stop table saw offered in San Francisco Bay Area.
That’s awesome
Alan Jones
Owner, HiFi Buys
770.931.0606
3157 Peachtree Rd NE | Atlanta, GA 30305
hifibuys.com
Our highest goal at HiFi Buys is to create a customer experience that is outstanding; so outstanding, in fact, that you want to tell others. Our customers are our best ambassadors and your reviews are vitally important to our growth
and longevity. So if you are so inclined, we’d love if you could tell your friends, write a review and post your story on social media so others can enjoy the same great experience that you have. Thank you!
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Hello fellow woody's. ?I received an email from a mom who lost her son and wants to give his Saw-stop table saw away to a passionate woodworker. ?Im in Napa Ca. so they must be nearby, so any of you in the vicinity interested in this please DM me and I'll
connect you to her.
Cheers!
?
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Re: Does anyone know the name of the round feature in this Chinese room partition?
Bill,
?
I found this website?. It is a Chinese company selling Su Embroidery outside of China.
If you do visit China, you will want to visit this town () in Suzhou, town of China Embroidery, it has a 1700M long street with 400+ embroidery stores.
Btw, most western countries' citizens can enter China without a visa for up to 10-day visit.
James
?
Hi James,
Thanks for the reply. It might help me find a place that sells just the embroidery pieces. May have to wait for a trip to China to actually find something.
?
--
-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer
?
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David P. Best
Bill Hope
imran
Jason Holtz
Colum