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I knew this would generate a lot of posts. "So cut me a style that is 13 and 7/8 light and a rail that is 22 5/16 strong.” LOL ? David Best DBestWorkshop@...

Michael, I do these kinds of projects all the time. I have learned the hard way that the best product for this is ApplePly or the equivalent from Murphy. Here is a link to what I normally use. The C-2

Premium Felder engineering! David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best

I’ve had good luck with Columbia Classic Core. It has a thin layer of MDF under the veneer layer that makes it flatter and more consistent. Brian Lamb blamb11@... www.lambtoolworks.com

Andy, I haven't made the conversion yet (still considering it along with my adult woodworking son who I have discussed it with) but, as you mention, I think in imperial when gauging how big something

Imperial is good enough for the girls I go out with. But, I’d have to check to see what my wife prefers. ??? Wade

I was brought up on Imperial but use metric for woodworking. That all works fine but if someone says that there was 10cm of snow, I struggle to visualise it.

I've switched to metric and I encourage everyone I know to do the same. You get 1/25.4" of precision before you need to use decimals/fractions, which is plenty for most woodworking projects. Plus, it

I work primarily in imperial units. With calipers and DRO displays it is easy to work with decimal inches. The exception is my 12” rule, which is graduated in 1/32” and 1/64” on one side, and mm

I am the same. I find I make fewer errors and for me the math is easier :) Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef> ________________________________ Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2024 4:21:17 PM To:

I switched to metric. It solves so many problems for me, and creates more precision in my work. I occasionally find that I think about space in imperial to “get a ballpark” ie the room is roughly

Hi folks, ??? I'm about to embark on a project to build a series of modular bookcases.? (To be clear, my projects move slow and are for personal use . . . I may be working on this into 2026.?

Conversion is a loser in my view. It only breeds error. Work in one or the other. D Sent from my iEye

Bird, I like to make my parts from rough stock so I can pic for grain color and most important machine flat and straight and to thickness so mm “ makes little difference. Getting pre sized stuff is

No, you cannot lower the blade guard-holding riving knife because that top section is where the blade guard is mounted.? If you set it too low then the piece you are cutting will run into the knob

Hi Bird, The vast majority of my shaper tooling is from Rangate, and therefore metric. It's been my experience that I have no issues working to Imperial measurements. The tooling usually includes a

On Jan 28, 2024, at 13:20, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote: ?OK, I’ll fan the flames on this one. LOL <Which is better.jpeg> David Best DBestWorkshop@...

OK, I’ll fan the flames on this one. LOL ? David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best

Today I have a question for the Americans. I’m planning to add some shaper cutters to my arsenal and I see lots of them are metric sizes. I’m wondering how much difference that makes when working

Dave, please don’t ever stop “being dumb” and posting questions. I’m following along and appreciate what you’ve posted. Yes, some of the people here have considerable experience and