The raised access floors, which are common in computer server rooms, are 2' x 2' metal/concrete/metal sandwiches with a hole on each corner to use a specific machine screw to screw into the supports that hold them up.? There is a suction cup device that you use to lift up the squares, if needed, giving you full access underneath them.? Mine is 18" off the cement floor, so plenty of room.? You need to think a little about routing the rigid ducting, but it really is a great solution to hide the ducting.? I've not seen anyone else use this approach, but I highly recommend it.? You can usually buy used raised access floors for a very reasonable amount, and have the pros install it, which they did in a day.? They also cut holes for the ducting through the squares (kids don't try that at home.? That generated more dust than anything I have ever seen.)
Really quite easy to adapt the Kapex to the Grit, although I should have been more specific.? I have the Grit turning on my two Jet air filters by having the Festool vac its attached to plugged into a 120V Grit trigger.? I have plans to make a small enclosure around the back of the Kapex and hooking that up to Nordfab ducting to have both my cyclone and Festool vac collecting chips from the Kapex, because as we sadly all know dust collection for miters saws is poor.? Even the Kapex, which is supposedly better than most.? Once I do that, I'll install a Grit gate to a Nordfab gate and I bet the dust collection will get markedly better.??
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Re: Sliding Table Adjustment
David Best,
Nut #4, in your diagram, looks like a washer. ?
Wade
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On Jul 8, 2023, at 5:31 AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? Look at the following diagram. ?You should be making adjustments with the nuts labeled ¡°3¡±. ?My suspicion is you trying to adjust the slider height using nut #4 - others have gotten this confused as well.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jul 7, 2023, at 8:06 PM, Greg <ghcustomwoodwork@...> wrote:
Hi All,
This week I took delivery of a K940S, my first slider. Still haven¡¯t wired it up so haven¡¯t seen it run yet, but it¡¯s an understatement to say I¡¯m impressed. I¡¯ve just finished the assembly, and I¡¯m now beginning the process of setting up the machine and bringing it into spec. I¡¯m struggling a bit with fine tuning the table. In trying to follow David Best¡¯s dial indicator method, I¡¯m finding a lack of adjustment range using the bolts under the sliding table to get everything sufficiently coplanar. I¡¯ve attached a photo of my setup so you can see what I¡¯m working with.
So far I¡¯m only working on the table in the middle locking position, and manipulating the 4 center posts. I can get two indicators to read .005 above the cast iron surface, but not the third. I can bring either of the ¡°inner" indicators (positioned at each corner of the cast iron top) into alignment with the dial indicator that is reading at the outer edge of the sliding table. But I can¡¯t get either of those ¡°inner¡± indicators to agree with one another. One is always at least .007-.009 different than the other. I¡¯m finding that I only have a very small amount of adjustment when I turn the bolts under the table. They either quickly loosen to the point that they are no longer in contact (and so no longer making any adjustment) or they tighten to the point where I can¡¯t turn them any further.?
Am I adjusting the wrong nuts? I¡¯ve been assuming the adjustment is made with the 2 stacked nuts directly underneath the sliding table, not the other nut under the frame. Those seem pretty hard to get to for the 4 posts nearest to the blade assembly. Is that where I should be making adjustments? Grateful for any help this community can provide.
Greg
Greg Halbach Custom Woodwork, LLC
Anchorage, AK 520-904-8706
<IMG_9373.jpeg>
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Re: Sliding Table Adjustment
Look at the following diagram. ?You should be making adjustments with the nuts labeled ¡°3¡±. ?My suspicion is you trying to adjust the slider height using nut #4 - others have gotten this confused as well.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jul 7, 2023, at 8:06 PM, Greg <ghcustomwoodwork@...> wrote:
Hi All,
This week I took delivery of a K940S, my first slider. Still haven¡¯t wired it up so haven¡¯t seen it run yet, but it¡¯s an understatement to say I¡¯m impressed. I¡¯ve just finished the assembly, and I¡¯m now beginning the process of setting up the machine and bringing it into spec. I¡¯m struggling a bit with fine tuning the table. In trying to follow David Best¡¯s dial indicator method, I¡¯m finding a lack of adjustment range using the bolts under the sliding table to get everything sufficiently coplanar. I¡¯ve attached a photo of my setup so you can see what I¡¯m working with.
So far I¡¯m only working on the table in the middle locking position, and manipulating the 4 center posts. I can get two indicators to read .005 above the cast iron surface, but not the third. I can bring either of the ¡°inner" indicators (positioned at each corner of the cast iron top) into alignment with the dial indicator that is reading at the outer edge of the sliding table. But I can¡¯t get either of those ¡°inner¡± indicators to agree with one another. One is always at least .007-.009 different than the other. I¡¯m finding that I only have a very small amount of adjustment when I turn the bolts under the table. They either quickly loosen to the point that they are no longer in contact (and so no longer making any adjustment) or they tighten to the point where I can¡¯t turn them any further.?
Am I adjusting the wrong nuts? I¡¯ve been assuming the adjustment is made with the 2 stacked nuts directly underneath the sliding table, not the other nut under the frame. Those seem pretty hard to get to for the 4 posts nearest to the blade assembly. Is that where I should be making adjustments? Grateful for any help this community can provide.
Greg
Greg Halbach Custom Woodwork, LLC
Anchorage, AK 520-904-8706
<IMG_9373.jpeg>
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Hi All,
This week I took delivery of a K940S, my first slider. Still haven¡¯t wired it up so haven¡¯t seen it run yet, but it¡¯s an understatement to say I¡¯m impressed. I¡¯ve just finished the assembly, and I¡¯m now beginning the process of setting up the machine and bringing it into spec. I¡¯m struggling a bit with fine tuning the table. In trying to follow David Best¡¯s dial indicator method, I¡¯m finding a lack of adjustment range using the bolts under the sliding table to get everything sufficiently coplanar. I¡¯ve attached a photo of my setup so you can see what I¡¯m working with.
So far I¡¯m only working on the table in the middle locking position, and manipulating the 4 center posts. I can get two indicators to read .005 above the cast iron surface, but not the third. I can bring either of the ¡°inner" indicators (positioned at each corner of the cast iron top) into alignment with the dial indicator that is reading at the outer edge of the sliding table. But I can¡¯t get either of those ¡°inner¡± indicators to agree with one another. One is always at least .007-.009 different than the other. I¡¯m finding that I only have a very small amount of adjustment when I turn the bolts under the table. They either quickly loosen to the point that they are no longer in contact (and so no longer making any adjustment) or they tighten to the point where I can¡¯t turn them any further.?
Am I adjusting the wrong nuts? I¡¯ve been assuming the adjustment is made with the 2 stacked nuts directly underneath the sliding table, not the other nut under the frame. Those seem pretty hard to get to for the 4 posts nearest to the blade assembly. Is that where I should be making adjustments? Grateful for any help this community can provide.
Greg
Greg Halbach Custom Woodwork, LLC
Anchorage, AK 520-904-8706
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Why dose my felder rl 200 only fill one bin
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Mac, I have not dug into this for quite a while but I don¡¯t think any distributors in the US for Anuba.
FFI and GU sell knockoffs of Anuba but if you need original most likely will have to come from Europe.
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KnockUout,
Ducting run under the floor? ?Have you ever had to make changes or modifications to your Nordfab pipe? ?Would it be easy to access it, if needed? ?
Do you have a picture of how you adapted the Grit to your Kapex?
Thx,
Wade
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On Jul 7, 2023, at 8:02 AM, knockuout@... wrote:
?I also installed a full GRIT Automation system on my Nordfab gates for my Felder A941 jointer, D951 Planer, FB710 Bandsaw as well as adding it to my SawStop ICS, Festool Kapex, and router table.? Most importantly, I put a Grit gate on my Grizzly Wide-Belt Sander.? Very recently I added a Hammer HS950 Edge Sander to my workshop, and added a GRIT gate to that too.? It was helpful that I already had a Nordfab set of piping to all my machines, so it was just minutes per gate to modify them. The GRIT system has really made amazing changes to my workflow.? No having to reach under machines to open gates.? My workshop sits on a raised access floor, so all the Nordfab ducting goes under the floor.? Awesome for keeping piping out of your way, but the gates are on the floor, sometimes under machine tables so it was always a huge pain to crawl under machines to open and close gates.? And what a joy it was when I would forget to open up the gate to the wide-belt sander and create a dust cloud.? I later added the air quality controls to my two Jet air cleaners, and it's great to have the workshop air clean virtually all of the time automatically.? I was pretty skeptical about this initially, but Joel has come through with flying colors. I had seriously thought about Ecogate's Greenbox system at the time, but am very glad I tool the GRIT route.? Really nice not having to trash all of?my Nordfab gates and replace them with expensive new Ecogate ones. My experience with Grit has been really remarkable.? They really do have the best customer service of any company I have dealt with.? Joel and Jacklyn are really remarkable people.? I can't recommend this company highly enough.? They have really been quite awesome to me.??  
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Mac, if you get really stuck try searching the Spanish market.
Over here you need to use a cover plate for specific colours, the covers are metal and quality, not the modern plastic rubbish. Kindest regards
Jonathan Samways
On Fri, 7 Jul 2023, 7:27 pm Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression, < airtightclamps@...> wrote: Hi ,
any one have a contact for purchasing Anuba hinges?
in particular 452.05sm probably not current no.?
I need 6 nickel , I have bronze in stock.
preference is distributor?
thanks in advance
mac,,
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Hi ,
any one have a contact for purchasing Anuba hinges?
in particular 452.05sm probably not current no.?
I need 6 nickel , I have bronze in stock.
preference is distributor?
thanks in advance
mac,,
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I also installed a full GRIT Automation system on my Nordfab gates for my Felder A941 jointer, D951 Planer, FB710 Bandsaw as well as adding it to my SawStop ICS, Festool Kapex, and router table.? Most importantly, I put a Grit gate on my Grizzly Wide-Belt Sander.? Very recently I added a Hammer HS950 Edge Sander to my workshop, and added a GRIT gate to that too.? It was helpful that I already had a Nordfab set of piping to all my machines, so it was just minutes per gate to modify them. The GRIT system has really made amazing changes to my workflow.? No having to reach under machines to open gates.? My workshop sits on a raised access floor, so all the Nordfab ducting goes under the floor.? Awesome for keeping piping out of your way, but the gates are on the floor, sometimes under machine tables so it was always a huge pain to crawl under machines to open and close gates.? And what a joy it was when I would forget to open up the gate to the wide-belt sander and create a dust cloud.? I later added the air quality controls to my two Jet air cleaners, and it's great to have the workshop air clean virtually all of the time automatically.? I was pretty skeptical about this initially, but Joel has come through with flying colors. I had seriously thought about Ecogate's Greenbox system at the time, but am very glad I tool the GRIT route.? Really nice not having to trash all of?my Nordfab gates and replace them with expensive new Ecogate ones. My experience with Grit has been really remarkable.? They really do have the best customer service of any company I have dealt with.? Joel and Jacklyn are really remarkable people.? I can't recommend this company highly enough.? They have really been quite awesome to me.??  
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Re: Dust Collection Planning
Hi David,
Thanks for clearing up that question. Slip fit makes perfect sense. Indeed, if I go the same route, three blast gates will be needed, with one acting as the master, controlled by the Grit system.
By the way, nothing you do fails to impress. Thank you for the schematic and the detailed list of items used in your system. I have little doubt I will make used of them in the future.
Yours,
Alex
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On Jul 6, 2023, at 6:11 PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
<Dust Collection Shop Layout.pdf>
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Re: Dust Collection Planning
Alex,
I use the quick connect fittings at the machine-side of the flex hose. ?It just slips on/off the dust extraction port flange. ?It¡¯s a tight enough fit, that no magnet or other latching device is necessary. ?I should also add that the flex hose I use is the heavy-duty stuff sold by Felder - it¡¯s metric and fits their quick connect element just fine. ?This is the 140mm fitting: ??
And this is the hose (which, unlike what Felder uses inside their saws and shapers, is a durable product with smooth insides):
I should also elaborate a bit more since I¡¯m using Imperial Nordfab and Metric Flex. ?I decided to make the transition from the metal pipe nominal imperial OD to the metric flex hose ID at the blast gate rather than at the machine. ?When I ordered the parts from Nordfab, I had them make those fittings and used their mechanical blast gates. ?
My entire system layout is documented in the attached drawing drawing with every part having a number. ?That number corresponds to items in the Nordfab parts list which is also attached. ?The J/P trunk line begins with part #5 in the drawing.
As you can see, for the J/P I have a 6" Ecogate blast gate (noted in RED), followed a Nordfab Y (#8), and from that Y, there is an outlet for the planer, and a separate outlet or the jointer. ?Each of hose outlets has a Nordfab manual blast gate (#11 and #15) and a Nordfab QF to 140mm OD fitting (#10 and #16) where the flex hose connects. ?So when I connect either of the hoses to the J/P extraction plenum, I open the manual blast gate for that hose. ?When I switch over, ?I close the manual gate on the flex hose that¡¯s coming off the machine, and open the manual gate that is going onto the machine. ?When the machine is powered on, the extractor fires up and the master electronically controlled blast gate for the J/P is opened. ?
In your case, if you have the Grit system automatically opening the gate and powering up the extractor when the J/P turns on, you¡¯d want a ¡°master blast gate¡± for the entire J/P controlled by the GritI first, then the Y pipe to two manual blast gates. ?That¡¯s how I have mine arranged (although I¡¯m using Ecogate). ?I¡¯m not sure how you¡¯d configure the Grit system to control two different blast gates for the same machine if you want the gate triggered when the machine is powered on - there¡¯s no way to know which of the two gates to open. ?So I suggest a ¡°master¡± gate electronically triggered by the machine turning on, and a manual blast gate for each flex hose that goes to the J/P. ?I hope this is clear.
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jul 6, 2023, at 4:37 PM, Alex Bowlds <aabj@...> wrote:
Hi David,
Thanks for the prompt reply. And thank you for the photo. ?It answers all but one or two questions. ?I have the opportunity to do just what you suggest. ?So my next question is how do you switch from one operation to the other. ?I see you have two separate blast gates with two sections of flex hose. ?That is nice in that it keeps the flex hose behind the machine and out to the work area. ?I am wondering how you make the connection each time when you switch over? ?Obviously, you don¡¯t just flip over the dust hood. ?You have to disconnect one hose and connect the other. ?Do you have a magnetic quick connect, or do you use loosen and tighten a hose clamp each time? ?As an aside, I have placed the order to Grit Automation to automate the operation of my dust collector and blast gates. ?That should ship tomorrow so that I can hopefully finish the dust collection installation next week.
Thanks,
Alex
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Re: Dust Collection Planning
Hi David,
Thanks for the prompt reply. And thank you for the photo. ?It answers all but one or two questions. ?I have the opportunity to do just what you suggest. ?So my next question is how do you switch from one operation to the other. ?I see you have two separate blast gates with two sections of flex hose. ?That is nice in that it keeps the flex hose behind the machine and out to the work area. ?I am wondering how you make the connection each time when you switch over? ?Obviously, you don¡¯t just flip over the dust hood. ?You have to disconnect one hose and connect the other. ?Do you have a magnetic quick connect, or do you use loosen and tighten a hose clamp each time? ?As an aside, I have placed the order to Grit Automation to automate the operation of my dust collector and blast gates. ?That should ship tomorrow so that I can hopefully finish the dust collection installation next week.
Thanks,
Alex
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On Jul 6, 2023, at 4:23 PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
Alex, as long as you¡¯re reconfiguring your dust collection system, I would recommend you consider using a separate flex hose (with blast gate) for each end of the machine. You can see in the following photo how I have mine set up and it has been so much easier to deal with than a single hose you have to struggle with each time you change function. ?As you can see in the photo, I have two pickup points with the Nordfab pipe and a manual blast gate at each end (red arrows). ?In my case, there is another Ecogate upstream of the Y-branch that opens when the machine is turned on.
<Dedicated Dust Extraction Hoses - 1.jpeg> On Jul 6, 2023, at 3:58 PM, Alex Bowlds <aabj@...> wrote:
Hello Everyone,
I have an AD951 Jointer/Planer that I have been using with a very temporary dust collection setup. ?I have now installed NordFab dust collection to all of my machines. ?I have 7" pipe running to a point above the machine where it drops down over the machine with a 7" to 6" reducer and 6" blast gate. ?I am going to use 6" flex hose. ?My questions are as follows: ?
How far above the machine should the NordFab end and the flex hose begin? ?Remember, this machine has the dust collection apparatus that flips from end to end as it switches from jointer to planer. ?
Approx. how long should the flex hose be? ?I have 10' on order. ?A 6' Piece was too short.
I am also wondering about hose management? ?To that end, should the overhead drop come down directly over the center of the machine, slightly behind, or in front of the machine? ?The idea is to have the hose as short as possible, but not have it in the way when in use. ?If you have a similar setup that works for you, please include a photo.
Thank you,
Alex Bowlds
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Re: Dust Collection Planning
Alex, as long as you¡¯re reconfiguring your dust collection system, I would recommend you consider using a separate flex hose (with blast gate) for each end of the machine. You can see in the following photo how I have mine set up and it has been so much easier to deal with than a single hose you have to struggle with each time you change function. ?As you can see in the photo, I have two pickup points with the Nordfab pipe and a manual blast gate at each end (red arrows). ?In my case, there is another Ecogate upstream of the Y-branch that opens when the machine is turned on.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jul 6, 2023, at 3:58 PM, Alex Bowlds <aabj@...> wrote:
Hello Everyone,
I have an AD951 Jointer/Planer that I have been using with a very temporary dust collection setup. ?I have now installed NordFab dust collection to all of my machines. ?I have 7" pipe running to a point above the machine where it drops down over the machine with a 7" to 6" reducer and 6" blast gate. ?I am going to use 6" flex hose. ?My questions are as follows: ?
How far above the machine should the NordFab end and the flex hose begin? ?Remember, this machine has the dust collection apparatus that flips from end to end as it switches from jointer to planer. ?
Approx. how long should the flex hose be? ?I have 10' on order. ?A 6' Piece was too short.
I am also wondering about hose management? ?To that end, should the overhead drop come down directly over the center of the machine, slightly behind, or in front of the machine? ?The idea is to have the hose as short as possible, but not have it in the way when in use. ?If you have a similar setup that works for you, please include a photo.
Thank you,
Alex Bowlds
|
Hello Everyone,
I have an AD951 Jointer/Planer that I have been using with a very temporary dust collection setup. ?I have now installed NordFab dust collection to all of my machines. ?I have 7" pipe running to a point above the machine where it drops down over the machine with a 7" to 6" reducer and 6" blast gate. ?I am going to use 6" flex hose. ?My questions are as follows: ?
How far above the machine should the NordFab end and the flex hose begin? ?Remember, this machine has the dust collection apparatus that flips from end to end as it switches from jointer to planer. ?
Approx. how long should the flex hose be? ?I have 10' on order. ?A 6' Piece was too short.
I am also wondering about hose management? ?To that end, should the overhead drop come down directly over the center of the machine, slightly behind, or in front of the machine? ?The idea is to have the hose as short as possible, but not have it in the way when in use. ?If you have a similar setup that works for you, please include a photo.
Thank you,
Alex Bowlds
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Re: Fusion 360 vs. Solidworks for Makers
I got the same notice this morning. ?One really has to admire how this team has evolved a product that started out as a 3D conceptual design tool for the iPad. ?I look forward to beta testing it, and I¡¯ve already posted some feedback on product feature requests. ?The one aspect they didn¡¯t speak about is an Assembly module - which I assume isn¡¯t part of this, but would be an almost necessary addition to serve many woodworking applications. ?What appeared to me originally as a product weakness (how sketches are associated with components) looks to be evolving in a way that will certainly ease the ¡°missing reference¡± and timeline breaking issues.
I really admire their dedication to making the user interface intuitive and less complex. ?This aspect is certainly NOT in the wheelhouse of AutoDesk. ?I remember working with the first release of AutoCad and seeing a command line interface where you had to enter commands like ¡°Draw Line 4.5667x70.000 to 5.750x72.000¡±. ?It took them seven years to come up with any type of visual UI. ?And while I don¡¯t mind the UI in Fusion 360, I have to say that its complexity adds significantly to the learning curve.
It will be interesting to see if AutoDesk has any reaction to this. ?If I were product manager there, I¡¯d be angling to evolve the product into separate but compatible products aimed at particular vertical markets (CNC Machining, Sheet Metal, Plastics, Electronics, Woodworking) appropriately priced to be within reach of the small shop. ?But I¡¯m not holding my breath.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jul 6, 2023, at 10:23 AM, Larry Long Neck <longneckwood@...> wrote:
Just got an email from Shapr3d.. they are adding parametric features with history based timeline this year. Will be interesting to see how this unfolds?https://www.shapr3d.com/2023-summer-product-tour
--
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
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Re: Fusion 360 vs. Solidworks for Makers
Just got an email from Shapr3d.. they are adding parametric features with history based timeline this year. Will be interesting to see how this unfolds?https://www.shapr3d.com/2023-summer-product-tour
--
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
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Wide Bandmill components FS- OT
I had plans to build a bandmill based on the excellent design by Matt Cremona.? ?The mill as design will cut 6 feet wide.? The plans were about a hundred dollars when I bought them.? Matt has plenty of videos of the mill in use.? Caution: infectious videos...
Given that I likely have enough wood for the remainder of my life and because I've spent the past 3 years bringing my shoulders back from a rough state, I've decided to sell the components rather than build the mill.
The components are as follows (new and unused unless noted):
1) Two sets of Thompson linear rails and bearings for vertical attachment of saw head.? 45mm wide rails, 2150mm long.
2) Two sets of THK 45mm rails/ bearings for blade guides. One rail is 810mm, the other 780mm long.
3) 20 hp 3 phase Baldor Super E drive motor (Cem4106T). Split bushing included.?
4) Drive pulley for saw head.
5) Saw head lift motor.? 3 hp, 3 phase Marathon motor with speed reducer and chain drive.? Used, but tested.? Works well.? No motor controls included.?
6)? Allen Bradley Motor starter (size 2 or 3).? Used, but tested.? Works well.? Push button remote and Overloads needed.
Price is 4000.? I can deliver a properly prepared skid to a freight terminal.? I get a reasonable freight discount from DM Transportation (broker).
I can provide photos upon request.?
Also available separately is a 3 ton, 3 phase chain hoist with trolley if interested.?
Marlowe McGraw?
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I received my Profil 45 Z with the Aigner Integral fence and high-speed spindle one month ago.? While I haven't used it yet I found the same lifting issue as you.? Moving the fence as far to the rear helps substantially.? Pushing up on the overhead fence assembly rather the using the lift handle makes it easier and is more convenient too.? As far as the difficulty related to pulling the pin while lifting the fence goes, I found pulling the pin before the lift and slipping a thin piece of metal in front of the pin eliminated that issue.? But you must remove the metal before letting go of the fence!? I have a string attached to the metal to do this.
On my machine the distance between the center of the collet and the fence is 5/8" with the fence moved all the way to the rear.??
On Thursday, July 6, 2023 at 09:03:46 AM EDT, Richard Stevens via groups.io <richard.stevens@...> wrote:
Brian, for some weird reason I do recall a long time ago someone jerry rigging a block and tackle setup to help lift the shaper hood on the Profil 45. ?Easily ten or more years ago. ?
I have the Profil 45 also and CAN vouch for the fact that it is a mother of a hood to lift whilst also pulling the pin. ?I¡¯m not exactly physically compromised and have had troubles with it since day 1. ?The air jack isn¡¯t powerful enough to help lift it. Perhaps a bigger one is warranted. Truth be told the entire hood is badly designed. My son who is professional woodworker raised this with the Felder techs at either Ligna or Holzhandwerk shows in Germany last year and they (Felder) conceded the entire hood is flawed.
My other beef with the hood is that with the Aigner Integral fence I can¡¯t use the high speed spindle coz the fence is much thicker than the standard Felder aluminium plates and the fence can¡¯t be moved far back enough to run router bits. So, a $2000 high speed spindle is of zero use. If some one has a work around for this, I¡¯d love to hear about it.?
Richard Stevens
melbourne, Australia.?
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Re: Storage idea for sliders
I watched that video as well, stopped the vid, ran out to the C3, took off an endcap, same construction apparently as his K3.? Left a comment at YT, awesome idea. ;-)
I have a couple of his ZCI's also.? They are well built, work good.....
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David P. Best
Larry Long Neck