Re: Martin cutter blocks - which one tersa or xylent type carbide insert?
#jointerplaner
Hi Jay, Lucky man to be in that position. I don't have any experience with Tersa, other than my moulder guy loves them on his Weinig. I think one big advantage is how quickly you can change knives, and you can have different steels for different materials. That said, I've been using both Byrd heads and the Oliver ITCH head for years. While the Tersa may give you a better finish right off the knives when new, the amount of service I get out of both of my carbide heads is incredible. I just ground the head in the Oliver for the first time in over 2 years. It was barely tearing out gnarly figured wood then. Outstanding given there are 6 furniture makers using it in my shop.
Jason
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Martin cutter blocks - which one tersa or xylent type carbide insert?
#jointerplaner
Jay,
I recently replaced the cutterhead of my Martin T41 with a Byrd Shelix head.? I'm very happy with the cut quality.? I have no doubt that the Martin cutterhead is as good or better than the Byrd. I haven't done a direct comparison with my tersa head Griggio planer (same diameter cutting circle), but expect it to tear out less in highly figured woods. One big benefit of insert head IMO is the smaller chip delivered to my collector barrel.?? Dealing with small nicks is fairly easily dealt with on tersa given knife shift. Using different knife sets for nasty material (like reclaimed) is a plus for Tersa. Enjoy your fine machines!
Marlowe McGraw?
Hi, I am upgrading to Martin T45 and T54 machines looking for advice on cutterheads. Tersa or carbide insert???
Jay Bowen
Cleveland
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Martin cutter blocks - which one tersa or xylent type carbide insert?
#jointerplaner
Hi, I am upgrading to Martin T45 and T54 machines looking for advice on cutterheads. Tersa or carbide insert???
Jay Bowen
Cleveland
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Overarm saw (crown) guard
I'm starting to put-together ideas for an overhead crown saw?guard to replace the one that attaches to the riving knife and would appreciate seeing what others have - whether commercial or DIY. I'll use some suitable steel tubing for the horizontal and vertical sections and will probably make a ply box for the crown guard, sufficiently wide to cope with angled cuts and sufficiently long to catch the dust (and keep fingers away!). It feels like it might be useful to be able to fit either wheels or hold-down anti-kickback fingers on the guard (so it would need to be rigidly attached to the over-arm, but remain adjustable), and to connect it to the LVHP extract rather than the HVLP one that the saw connects to ... but comments from those who've already trod a similar path would be very welcome.
Dave (in the UK)
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Thus Spoke Zarathustra !!! ??David Best - via mobile phone
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On Mar 8, 2023, at 8:50 PM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
Since we have a lack of replies here, I'm publishing the response from Felder technical support:
"A 1 ph motor will most definitely sound different while starting, stopping, and running than a 3ph motor.
I certainly don't have access to whatever frequency monitoring software that I assume you friend was using.
That said If he's referring to the noise of his 3ph machine than we are most definitely comparing apples and oranges!
His note regarding the higher frequency noise from the scoring unit "for several seconds" is indeed true. ? Though as I stated this is due to the start winding of the motor still being engaged.
I do not detect anything wrong w/ the way your machine sounds from the videos you've sent."
Thanks,
Aaron
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Since we have a lack of replies here, I'm publishing the response from Felder technical support:
"A 1 ph motor will most definitely sound different while starting, stopping, and running than a 3ph motor.
I certainly don't have access to whatever frequency monitoring software that I assume you friend was using.
That said If he's referring to the noise of his 3ph machine than we are most definitely comparing apples and oranges!
His note regarding the higher frequency noise from the scoring unit "for several seconds" is indeed true. ? Though as I stated this is due to the start winding of the motor still being engaged.
I do not detect anything wrong w/ the way your machine sounds from the videos you've sent."
Thanks,
Aaron
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Re: Saw controls on slider
David,
I am pretty sure Joe was talking about chassis mounted on/off switches.?I shared in response to comment suggesting that high voltage control switches are no longer used.?Also to clarify that it is not just Dave’s old BF6 but even the recent 2022 Hammer K3 uses line voltage on the On/Off switches.
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On Mar 8, 2023, at 9:16 PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote: ? Is that a chassis-mounted switch or a remote on/off switch? ?My comment was related to remote STOP switch.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Mar 8, 2023, at 5:58 PM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
It was Joe Slater who confirmed that his 2022 Hammer K3 Winner has On/Off circuit fed by line voltage. His post below.
On Mar 8, 2023, at 7:23 PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? James, I can’t quote you the specific safety directive. ?But when I was consulting with Marin on the feature set for their T60/65 saws, this topic came up and their engineers were emphatic that the STOP function had to be hardwired, and if it were part of the sliding table or safety interlock switches, it also had to be low voltage due to European regulations. ?That is the full extent of my knowledge, and it could well be predicated on the fact that the remote switches were part of a movable element of the machine (on the sliding table itself).
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Mar 8, 2023, at 4:02 PM, Jim Dayton <jd74914@...> wrote:
David Best,
[I’ll preface this with the statement that I’m not trying to be argumentative, just curious.]
What safety directive are you referencing re: only low voltage control circuits? I’m not a consumer machine guy, but I’ve not seen anything like that in the industrial stuff I’ve worked on.?
Thanks, James FWIW, recall a post (I could be wrong but thought it was here) where hammer control switches were receiving 240vac. This was not a super old machine. ?Well: the diagram shipped with the machine says the controls are at mains potential and doesn't show a traffo, the contactors have 220V coils, and physical inspection shows that there isn't a traffo ... pretty conclusive in my book. It would be quite tricky to get a probe onto one side of a contactor and I don't feel like disturbing everything. The 500mA fuses have no bearing on the voltage, and are appropriate to protect from a coil failure.
On this machine (made in 1996) all the controls are on the body of the machine and the wiring is internal, so there is no violation of safety standards.
Taking the cover off had an unexpected benefit - I spotted that one of the caps is becoming rather obese and may soon exceed the ability of its casing to restrain its innards. A bit of preventative maintenance is in order.
Dave (in the UK)
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Re: Saw controls on slider
Is that a chassis-mounted switch or a remote on/off switch? ?My comment was related to remote STOP switch.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Mar 8, 2023, at 5:58 PM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
It was Joe Slater who confirmed that his 2022 Hammer K3 Winner has On/Off circuit fed by line voltage. His post below.
On Mar 8, 2023, at 7:23 PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? James, I can’t quote you the specific safety directive. ?But when I was consulting with Marin on the feature set for their T60/65 saws, this topic came up and their engineers were emphatic that the STOP function had to be hardwired, and if it were part of the sliding table or safety interlock switches, it also had to be low voltage due to European regulations. ?That is the full extent of my knowledge, and it could well be predicated on the fact that the remote switches were part of a movable element of the machine (on the sliding table itself).
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Mar 8, 2023, at 4:02 PM, Jim Dayton <jd74914@...> wrote:
David Best,
[I’ll preface this with the statement that I’m not trying to be argumentative, just curious.]
What safety directive are you referencing re: only low voltage control circuits? I’m not a consumer machine guy, but I’ve not seen anything like that in the industrial stuff I’ve worked on.?
Thanks, James FWIW, recall a post (I could be wrong but thought it was here) where hammer control switches were receiving 240vac. This was not a super old machine. ?Well: the diagram shipped with the machine says the controls are at mains potential and doesn't show a traffo, the contactors have 220V coils, and physical inspection shows that there isn't a traffo ... pretty conclusive in my book. It would be quite tricky to get a probe onto one side of a contactor and I don't feel like disturbing everything. The 500mA fuses have no bearing on the voltage, and are appropriate to protect from a coil failure.
On this machine (made in 1996) all the controls are on the body of the machine and the wiring is internal, so there is no violation of safety standards.
Taking the cover off had an unexpected benefit - I spotted that one of the caps is becoming rather obese and may soon exceed the ability of its casing to restrain its innards. A bit of preventative maintenance is in order.
Dave (in the UK)
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Re: Saw controls on slider
It was Joe Slater who confirmed that his 2022 Hammer K3 Winner has On/Off circuit fed by line voltage. His post below.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 8, 2023, at 7:23 PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote: ? James, I can’t quote you the specific safety directive. ?But when I was consulting with Marin on the feature set for their T60/65 saws, this topic came up and their engineers were emphatic that the STOP function had to be hardwired, and if it were part of the sliding table or safety interlock switches, it also had to be low voltage due to European regulations. ?That is the full extent of my knowledge, and it could well be predicated on the fact that the remote switches were part of a movable element of the machine (on the sliding table itself).
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Mar 8, 2023, at 4:02 PM, Jim Dayton <jd74914@...> wrote:
David Best,
[I’ll preface this with the statement that I’m not trying to be argumentative, just curious.]
What safety directive are you referencing re: only low voltage control circuits? I’m not a consumer machine guy, but I’ve not seen anything like that in the industrial stuff I’ve worked on.?
Thanks, James FWIW, recall a post (I could be wrong but thought it was here) where hammer control switches were receiving 240vac. This was not a super old machine. ?Well: the diagram shipped with the machine says the controls are at mains potential and doesn't show a traffo, the contactors have 220V coils, and physical inspection shows that there isn't a traffo ... pretty conclusive in my book. It would be quite tricky to get a probe onto one side of a contactor and I don't feel like disturbing everything. The 500mA fuses have no bearing on the voltage, and are appropriate to protect from a coil failure.
On this machine (made in 1996) all the controls are on the body of the machine and the wiring is internal, so there is no violation of safety standards.
Taking the cover off had an unexpected benefit - I spotted that one of the caps is becoming rather obese and may soon exceed the ability of its casing to restrain its innards. A bit of preventative maintenance is in order.
Dave (in the UK)
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Re: Saw controls on slider
James, I can’t quote you the specific safety directive. ?But when I was consulting with Marin on the feature set for their T60/65 saws, this topic came up and their engineers were emphatic that the STOP function had to be hardwired, and if it were part of the sliding table or safety interlock switches, it also had to be low voltage due to European regulations. ?That is the full extent of my knowledge, and it could well be predicated on the fact that the remote switches were part of a movable element of the machine (on the sliding table itself).
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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Show quoted text
On Mar 8, 2023, at 4:02 PM, Jim Dayton <jd74914@...> wrote:
David Best,
[I’ll preface this with the statement that I’m not trying to be argumentative, just curious.]
What safety directive are you referencing re: only low voltage control circuits? I’m not a consumer machine guy, but I’ve not seen anything like that in the industrial stuff I’ve worked on.?
Thanks, James FWIW, recall a post (I could be wrong but thought it was here) where hammer control switches were receiving 240vac. This was not a super old machine. ?Well: the diagram shipped with the machine says the controls are at mains potential and doesn't show a traffo, the contactors have 220V coils, and physical inspection shows that there isn't a traffo ... pretty conclusive in my book. It would be quite tricky to get a probe onto one side of a contactor and I don't feel like disturbing everything. The 500mA fuses have no bearing on the voltage, and are appropriate to protect from a coil failure.
On this machine (made in 1996) all the controls are on the body of the machine and the wiring is internal, so there is no violation of safety standards.
Taking the cover off had an unexpected benefit - I spotted that one of the caps is becoming rather obese and may soon exceed the ability of its casing to restrain its innards. A bit of preventative maintenance is in order.
Dave (in the UK)
|
Re: Saw controls on slider
David Best,
[I’ll preface this with the statement that I’m not trying to be argumentative, just curious.]
What safety directive are you referencing re: only low voltage control circuits? I’m not a consumer machine guy, but I’ve not seen anything like that in the industrial stuff I’ve worked on.?
Thanks, James
FWIW, recall a post (I could be wrong but thought it was here) where hammer control switches were receiving 240vac. This was not a super old machine. ?Well: the diagram shipped with the machine says the controls are at mains potential and doesn't show a traffo, the contactors have 220V coils, and physical inspection shows that there isn't a traffo ... pretty conclusive in my book. It would be quite tricky to get a probe onto one side of a contactor and I don't feel like disturbing everything. The 500mA fuses have no bearing on the voltage, and are appropriate to protect from a coil failure.
On this machine (made in 1996) all the controls are on the body of the machine and the wiring is internal, so there is no violation of safety standards.
Taking the cover off had an unexpected benefit - I spotted that one of the caps is becoming rather obese and may soon exceed the ability of its casing to restrain its innards. A bit of preventative maintenance is in order.
Dave (in the UK)
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Re: To Keep or not to keep Cabinet saw
With regard to the original question posted by "H:" I've made thousands of rip cuts on my K3 using the rip fence and never experienced any practical ill-consequence due to the fact the slider is, and must be, set a hair higher than the cast iron top. The angle produced is very small, if not negligible, and probably barely distinguishable from the other slight errors and imperfections, like blade marks, and slight wiggles that are part and parcel of hand-fed rips on a saw. So my advice is, ascertain how high your sliding table sits above the cast iron table. Assuming it is a few/several thou, like recommended here, rip away and don't worry about any hypothetical angle issue. If it is much higher than that, then perhaps the angle does start to become a thing and you need to fix that--and there is lots of good advice on making the adjustments in the archives here.
....As you gain experience with the machine, maybe you'll come to prefer ripping with the sliding table as opposed to the rip fence, or maybe you won't. ?But don't throw in the towel on using the rip fence based on an incorrect belief it won't produce satisfactory results unless the cast iron and the slider top are literally exactly coplanar.
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Re: Saw controls on slider
FWIW, recall a post (I could be wrong but thought it was here) where hammer control switches were receiving 240vac. This was not a super old machine.
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On Mar 8, 2023, at 1:14 PM, aero_qfi <davesawdon@...> wrote: ?Well: the diagram shipped with the machine says the controls are at mains potential and doesn't show a traffo, the contactors have 220V coils, and physical inspection shows that there isn't a traffo ... pretty conclusive in my book. It would be quite tricky to get a probe onto one side of a contactor and I don't feel like disturbing everything. The 500mA fuses have no bearing on the voltage, and are appropriate to protect from a coil failure.
On this machine (made in 1996) all the controls are on the body of the machine and the wiring is internal, so there is no violation of safety standards.
Taking the cover off had an unexpected benefit - I spotted that one of the caps is becoming rather obese and may soon exceed the ability of its casing to restrain its innards. A bit of preventative maintenance is in order.
Dave (in the UK)
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Lucky, Everything was working fine until it wasn't. No idea what might have caused this. It seems I remember having the problem before and it was a simple matter of putting in a reference setting into the stop. We tried that without success. He said it may be that the batteries sat dead for a long time. I don't think so.
I haven't cut any angles on this saw yet. Seems I always do that on the chop saw, but if I did, I can see where it would be very handy. The chop saw is just so quick, where with the saw I need to start the Phase Perfect then wait for the saw to start up, then the dust extractor. So I don't seem to use it for a quick job. I'm sure if this was my business and I left the system running all the time, it would see more use.
Bill
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On Wed, Mar 8, 2023 at 2:17?PM David Luckensmeyer via <dhluckens= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi Bill:
How did the error come about? It surely is unusual to have to dive into the electrical box and mess with dip switches? Glad you were able to get it sorted! I have the digital angle but not the length compensation. It’s an expensive option that
I sometimes which I had bought. Out of curiosity, do you use the function very much?
After changing batteries and doing all I could with the information pages and reading the threads, I called Felder and Kelly walked me through resetting the system. The outrigger was on channel 0 which he didn't like so we changed it to 3, while the crosscut
fences were set to channel 1.
This involved removing the electrical panel. :(
We messed with dip switches on and off so there's no way I can give anyone a step by step.
But it's fixed.
Bill Bélanger
On Tue, Mar 7, 2023 at 5:24?PM David P. Best via
<dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote:
That’s a transmission error between your digital stop and the unit that calculates the distance offset when the fence is angled.? Could be a weak battery, or some interference on the bluetooth channel.? You might want to search around this posting in the
archive:
On Mar 7, 2023, at 3:47 PM, Bill Belanger <Bill@...> wrote:
Sorry to ask this again, I asked about 3 years ago and now I don't remember and can't find the answer.
What is this display telling me and how to I fix it? I've checked batteries...
Thanks in advance.
Bill Bélanger
<IMG_3680.JPG>
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Hi Bill:
How did the error come about? It surely is unusual to have to dive into the electrical box and mess with dip switches? Glad you were able to get it sorted! I have the digital angle but not the length compensation. It’s an expensive option that
I sometimes which I had bought. Out of curiosity, do you use the function very much?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
After changing batteries and doing all I could with the information pages and reading the threads, I called Felder and Kelly walked me through resetting the system. The outrigger was on channel 0 which he didn't like so we changed it to 3, while the crosscut
fences were set to channel 1.
This involved removing the electrical panel. :(
We messed with dip switches on and off so there's no way I can give anyone a step by step.
But it's fixed.
Bill Bélanger
On Tue, Mar 7, 2023 at 5:24?PM David P. Best via
<dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote:
That’s a transmission error between your digital stop and the unit that calculates the distance offset when the fence is angled.? Could be a weak battery, or some interference on the bluetooth channel.? You might want to search around this posting in the
archive:
On Mar 7, 2023, at 3:47 PM, Bill Belanger <Bill@...> wrote:
Sorry to ask this again, I asked about 3 years ago and now I don't remember and can't find the answer.
What is this display telling me and how to I fix it? I've checked batteries...
Thanks in advance.
Bill Bélanger
<IMG_3680.JPG>
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After changing batteries and doing all I could with the information pages and reading the threads, I called Felder and Kelly walked me through resetting the system. The outrigger was on channel 0 which he didn't like so we changed it to 3, while the crosscut fences were set to channel 1. This involved removing the electrical panel. :( We messed with dip switches on and off so there's no way I can give anyone a step by step. But it's fixed.
Bill Bélanger
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Tue, Mar 7, 2023 at 5:24?PM David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: That’s a transmission error between your digital stop and the unit that calculates the distance offset when the fence is angled.? Could be a weak battery, or some interference on the bluetooth channel.? You might want to search around this posting in the archive:
On Mar 7, 2023, at 3:47 PM, Bill Belanger <Bill@...> wrote:
Sorry to ask this again, I asked about 3 years ago and now I don't remember and can't find the answer.
What is this display telling me and how to I fix it? I've checked batteries...
Thanks in advance.
Bill Bélanger
<IMG_3680.JPG>
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Re: Felder "D963" Planer yr 2017 - 10kw auction price
You’re around 19k usd, I had one quoted in January with end of year pricing. Regular “discount” pricing probably closer to 20k.?
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On Mar 8, 2023, at 2:57 PM, Bespoke Woodworking <info@...> wrote:
?Just FYI for used Felder pricing.
D963 Planer yr 2017 - 10kw, 208v 3ph, powerdrive + digidrive, silent cutterhead, low hours
Sold this morning for $16,600 + 15% fee in Canadian dollars via machinery max. Machine looked to be in very good condition.
Anyone know what that machine would go for new?
Alex
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Felder "D963" Planer yr 2017 - 10kw auction price
Just FYI for used Felder pricing.
D963 Planer yr 2017 - 10kw, 208v 3ph, powerdrive + digidrive, silent cutterhead, low hours
Sold this morning for $16,600 + 15% fee in Canadian dollars via machinery max. Machine looked to be in very good condition.
Anyone know what that machine would go for new?
Alex
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Re: Saw controls on slider
Well: the diagram shipped with the machine says the controls are at mains potential and doesn't show a traffo, the contactors have 220V coils, and physical inspection shows that there isn't a traffo ... pretty conclusive in my book. It would be quite tricky to get a probe onto one side of a contactor and I don't feel like disturbing everything. The 500mA fuses have no bearing on the voltage, and are appropriate to protect from a coil failure.
On this machine (made in 1996) all the controls are on the body of the machine and the wiring is internal, so there is no violation of safety standards.
Taking the cover off had an unexpected benefit - I spotted that one of the caps is becoming rather obese and may soon exceed the ability of its casing to restrain its innards. A bit of preventative maintenance is in order.
Dave (in the UK)
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Re: Saw controls on slider
You might find this file from the archives useful. ?This was the original Remote Pendant design we all implemented back in 2001. ?It lists the coiled wiring.?
When I upgraded to a new Felder saw with built-in remote controls, I relocated my remote pendant to my stacker so I can hoist myself up to pick cherries. ?That coiled cable has been bomb-proof. ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Mar 8, 2023, at 10:00 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
It shows .5 amp fuses in the control circuits…. But before I’d trust a piece of paper, I’d put the meter on the wires and definitely know for sure what the voltage is.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 8, 2023, at 10:46 AM, aero_qfi <davesawdon@...> wrote:
Sorry, I added my edit (about contactor coil specs) to the earlier post before I saw your response.
I have just been to the workshop with the aim of making a measurement to put this discussion to bed. When I removed the cover to the electrical box I found the attached wiring diagram and, although it's very slightly different to the one in the manual, you can see that there is no transformer for the controls. Physical inspection shows that there isn't a traffo and that the contactors are the same type listed on the parts list - with 220V coils.
I didn't mean to be argumentative about this but just wanted to prevent someone from assuming that a phone cable would be safe, when it may not be. In this case it would have been rather unsafe.
BTW, I'd intended to fix the auxiliary controls on the side of the slider but I like the idea of hooking them on, as shown in your photo.
Dave (in the UK)
<Specific wiring diagram.pdf>
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Jason Holtz
David P. Best
imran
Bill Belanger
David Luckensmeyer
Dan Gavrilyuk