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I have a couple of 10” N.F. blades and all have 60 teeth or more.

It’s the high tooth count more than the grind or rake that make them awful at ripping.

HI fellow woodies, I bought new a 2002 C3-31 and mostly use the table saw, (bought a used mini-max 350 for separate jointer planer) and Ive been having an issue where it cuts out when using it for not too long or like earlier when I was resaving dried spruce 2x4's for spacers and took a while to resew 14 of them as it cut out about 8-9 times. ?it trips the power switch and then I have to wait about two minutes or switch will not stay in on position or it will but will cut out again when pushing any load through saw. ?one thing to note is Felder sent me a new 3 KW motor that I had to pay an electrician to wire up cause it was way underpowered. ?the 3KW compared to the 2.2 KW motor has more power for sure, but sadly being used to Delta unisaw and powermatic 66 it does not have that kind of power. ?Anyhow, Im not sure if it has anything to do with a safety cutoff or heat buildup, (but, seriously softwood resawing I should be able to run 3-1/2" through with an aggressive rip blade, but I ended up resaving half and then turning over and finishing the rest and still cut out on me, HELP PLEASE(-; ? ? ?Whilst Im here I thought I'd share a valuable remedy for vibration and cleaner cuts. ?My machine along with power and cutoff issues had a vibration issue and even with a sharp HI-AT Forrest blade in wouldn't yield clean cuts. ?I was able to mostly remedy this with a blade stabilizer from Forrest that is basically a small diameter blade without the teeth and it has helped a lot. ?cheers!

I had a similar drill press. It's from Axminster and it looks very much like a Powermatic, but I have no clue if it's the same machine or not. I wasn't happy with it. It was unbalanced, had runout and the variable gear thingy sounded like crap. A year ago I bought a machinist drill press, and I couldn't be happier. (there is probably a better word than "machinist drill press", but I don't have it)

This categorisation might not be universal, but from my amateur point of view there seems to be some distinct differences between wood working drill presses and machinist drill presses. The machinist ones tend to have better tolerances, i.e. more true, less vibrations, less runout.

Woodworking drill presses tend to have more quill movement, which is needed for longer drills. You also won't have to adjust the table height as often when the quill can move longer.

Machinist drill presses are usually meant for metal work, so the rpm tends to be lower.

After much searching I found one that checked most of the boxes:
- didn't cost me an arm and a leg
- variable speed without having to manually switch over the rubber things (sorry, don't know the word for this)
- reasonable quill movement ( I have 85 mm)
- Not too low max rpm. I wish mine could go higher for very small drills, but 1900 rpm cover most of what I need? (edit: corrected rpm)

My new machine is not a high end machine (the Axminster was about 1200 EUR, the new one was about 1600 EUR), but the difference is massive. I actually still put on a smile when I use the new one. It runs soo smooth and cuts much better.

Edit: --------
After finding the link, I now realise that the brand was a Jet. Maybe Jet is an OEM of Powermatic, or a rip-off, I don't know.


Also, I now remember that the depth stop had quite some flex. I never trusted it.
----------

The old and the new is shown on the pictures below.

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I have a 2800.? It's been disappointing since the day I bought it.? The variable speed mechanism shakes like an unbalanced washing machine when you set it towards the bottom the range.? I called Powermatic about the issues and they were worthless.? I should have returned it.? Unless I happen into some old iron, I have no plans to ever purchase another piece of Powermatic equipment.

The web page for the 2820 looks beautiful, but I'm not feeling good enough about modern Powermatic equipment to want to give them more of my money, ever.

--

Michael Garrison Stuber

Whoops, the 2820 is the new one i saw - duh, well now you have my thoughts on the 2800

Regards, Mark

-- 
Michael Garrison Stuber

--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406

I'm guessing your non-ferrous blade has a negative rake angle on the teeth, so it's going to be less aggressive than a normal crosscut blade for wood. I'm thinking it would not rip very well at all and most likely build up pitch quickly.

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Whoops, the 2820 is the new one i saw - duh, well now you have my thoughts on the 2800

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If I wanted a new dedicated drill press, I would buy an Ellis. ?Great quality products from a family owned business. ??

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That has been out for awhile, there is a gearhead version I just recently saw that seems to be new.?

Any thoughts on this drill press would be appreciated.? I'm in the market for a drill press and this one is appealing to me but appears to be brand? new model , so not much info on it yet. ?? Thanks

Hey all - So I've had my RL 200 for going on 7 years, and finally need to replace the filters. As expected at $666 USD each (x2 in the RL200), the filters cost significantly more than many stand alone dust collectors.?
Has anyone here had any luck finding an aftermarket filter for their RL's?

Thanks in advance
Matthew

We use to handle that two different ways.
A) leave your board tall...cut only to width of drawer fronts. Band two sides...then slice that into drawers fronts. Edge top and bottom of each.

Or 2)
We would run a “chaser” piece held tight to the narrow drawer front but held back from the edge banding and cutters. The chaser helps hold the narrow drawer fronts from shifting.

Hope that makes sense, Ramon

Ramon Valdez

Sorry guys if I caused the confusion.? I see what Felder does.? The part number was changed (from 04.0.160 to 04.1.160), but the cutter's name stays the same, "Adjustable High Performance Rebate Head, 4 drawing cutting, RB-HW."? I searched the archive using the new part number, resulting in this old thread coming up.

It appears the new cutter set does not have locating pins.??

So, 04.0.160 as of 2015 had the locating pins.??
The current set, 04.1.160 (2020), does not have the locating pins.??

Again, sorry for the confusion.

SW

Haha, I didn't notice the first post date. This thread has been around for a while =)

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04.0.160 was the PN first mentioned in this thread.
04.1.160 was not mentioned until Shinta asked for it.
04.1.160 is the one I have, hence my answer to Shinta and not the OP.