Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
For an off the wall choice, here is my Moore #2.? Won't do milling but will do boring, drilling and tapping with fast changeover.? Two ranges of speed from 0-2400 rpm.? Accuracy on the X and Y is in tenths which is better than the operator.? Dave
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That has been out for awhile, there is a gearhead version I just recently saw that seems to be new.?
Anyways we have the 2820 in the R&D lab that I work in, it¡¯s ok but the variable speed switch went bad within the first couple months (which they replaced promptly, i was impressed with the service) and had terrible runout, I replaced the chuck with like
a $500 one that we had in our tool crib and it has minimal run out now so I am assuming it was the original chuck, haven¡¯t have any issues since then but we don¡¯t use it a lot and most of the drilling is around 1/4¡± in steel and aluminum.
On Nov 4, 2020, at 6:24 PM, G. Lane <lane247@...> wrote:
?Any thoughts on this drill press would be appreciated.? I'm in the market for a drill press and this one is appealing to me but appears to be brand? new model , so not much info on it yet. ?? Thanks
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Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
Whoops, the 2820 is the new one i saw - duh, well now you have my thoughts on the 2800
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Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
If I wanted a new dedicated drill press, I would buy an Ellis. ?Great quality products from a family owned business. ??
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David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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On Nov 4, 2020, at 3:24 PM, G. Lane < lane247@...> wrote:
Any thoughts on this drill press would be appreciated.? I'm in the market for a drill press and this one is appealing to me but appears to be brand? new model , so not much info on it yet. ?? Thanks
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Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
That has been out for awhile, there is a gearhead version I just recently saw that seems to be new.?
Anyways we have the 2820 in the R&D lab that I work in, it¡¯s ok but the variable speed switch went bad within the first couple months (which they replaced promptly, i was impressed with the service) and had terrible runout, I replaced the chuck with like a $500 one that we had in our tool crib and it has minimal run out now so I am assuming it was the original chuck, haven¡¯t have any issues since then but we don¡¯t use it a lot and most of the drilling is around 1/4¡± in steel and aluminum.
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On Nov 4, 2020, at 6:24 PM, G. Lane <lane247@...> wrote:
?Any thoughts on this drill press would be appreciated.? I'm in the market for a drill press and this one is appealing to me but appears to be brand? new model , so not much info on it yet. ?? Thanks
|
Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
Any thoughts on this drill press would be appreciated.? I'm in the market for a drill press and this one is appealing to me but appears to be brand? new model , so not much info on it yet. ?? Thanks
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Hey all - So I've had my RL 200 for going on 7 years, and finally need to replace the filters. As expected at $666 USD each (x2 in the RL200), the filters cost significantly more than many stand alone dust collectors.?
Has anyone here had any luck finding an aftermarket filter for their RL's?
Thanks in advance
Matthew
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Re: Felder g330 edgebander
We use to handle that two different ways.
A) leave your board tall...cut only to width of drawer fronts. Band two sides...then slice that into drawers fronts. Edge top and bottom of each.
Or 2)
We would run a ¡°chaser¡± piece held tight to the narrow drawer front but held back from the edge banding and cutters. The chaser helps hold the narrow drawer fronts from shifting.
Hope that makes sense, Ramon
Ramon Valdez
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Re: Felder Adjustable Rebate Cutterhead
Sorry guys if I caused the confusion.? I see what Felder does.? The part number was changed (from 04.0.160 to 04.1.160), but the cutter's name stays the same, "Adjustable High Performance Rebate Head, 4 drawing cutting, RB-HW."? I searched the archive using the new part number, resulting in this old thread coming up.
It appears the new cutter set does not have locating pins.??
So, 04.0.160 as of 2015 had the locating pins.??
The current set, 04.1.160 (2020), does not have the locating pins.??
Again, sorry for the confusion.
SW
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Re: Felder Adjustable Rebate Cutterhead
Haha, I didn't notice the first post date. This thread has been around for a while =)
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Re: Felder Adjustable Rebate Cutterhead
michael,
i should have said PN inquired by SW. FWIW, the OP post is from 2015.?
imran
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On Nov 4, 2020, at 2:26 PM, michael@... wrote: ?04.0.160 was the PN first mentioned in this thread.
04.1.160 was not mentioned until Shinta asked for it.
04.1.160 is the one I have, hence my answer to Shinta and not the OP.
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Re: Felder Adjustable Rebate Cutterhead
04.0.160 was the PN first mentioned in this thread.
04.1.160 was not mentioned until Shinta asked for it.
04.1.160 is the one I have, hence my answer to Shinta and not the OP.
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Re: Felder Adjustable Rebate Cutterhead
the PN mentioned is 04.1.160 and it is available on USA felder eshop.
imran?
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On Nov 4, 2020, at 1:41 PM, michael@... wrote: ? [Edited Message Follows]
I think this thread was originally about 04.0.160. I cannot find this cutter at the Felder shop. Maybe it's an older model? Edit: I bought my cutter in October this year. I had trouble finding anyone with the item in stock. The one I found was a former Felder dealer and he found this laying around, so I'm pretty sure my sample is not from 2020.
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Re: Felder Adjustable Rebate Cutterhead
I think this thread was originally about 04.0.160. I cannot find this cutter at the Felder shop. Maybe it's an older model?
Edit: I bought my cutter in October this year. I had trouble finding anyone with the item in stock. The one I found was a former Felder dealer and he found this laying around, so I'm pretty sure my sample is not from 2020.
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Re: Felder Adjustable Rebate Cutterhead
Michael, thank you for the information and link.
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Reading through the thread again, I am confused.? David's post indicates part 04.1.160 to have locating pins that need to be shimmed with spacers with correctly drilled holes that cover the pins.? Gary's post indicates the same thing.? Felder recommended to Gary to remove the pins for cutting tenon.? Their posts dated 2015.? Which year is your cutter set?? Is it possible that Felder updated the cutter design and eliminated the locating pins for the current 04.1.160 (year 2020)??
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Nice and crisp looking miter tenons!? I've been cutting them on the slider using a modified Delta tenoning jig (the one for cabinet saw).? Mine doesn't look as crisp though.?
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Regards,
?
SW
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Trying to find out what everyone does about banding the sides of a 6¡± drawer front since it¡¯s under the machines minimum?
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Re: Felder Adjustable Rebate Cutterhead
On 4-11-2020 17:04, Shinta Wakahisa via groups.io wrote: Gary or anyone,
I am looking at the Felder?04.1.160 rebate cutter and wonder about how to separate the cutters apart for tenon cutting. In the Dutch web shop there is an illustration how to separate it (opposing sides towards each other for tenoning as compared to rebate cutting): The (Dutch) description states it comes with spacer rings to adjust for 28 to 55 mm range. Naturally, there are answers on FOG.? I can only find part 04.3.036 (page 446 of the PDF 2020 catalog) in Felder's 2020 catalog as the only shim set available in the shaper tooling section.? It is listed in the slot cutter section of the catalog.? Is part 04.3.036 compatible with part 04.1.160? I don't see why not, it just seems to be another set of spacers, only reason it won't fit might be the outer diameter of the spacers being larger than provided spaceers, which would reduce the length of your tenons. For the rebate configuration the spacers are in the set AFAICT. Regards, Jonathan
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Re: Felder Adjustable Rebate Cutterhead
Shinta, 04.1.160 does not have locating pins, so you won't need shims with hole pattern. Use any standard 30 mm shim. I don't know where you are located, here is an example at Axminster: The ones from Felder will work as well, but I don't think they are available in bigger sizes. The Omas ones from Axminster are nice since they have the size imprinted on them. Here is 04.1.160 in action: 
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Re: Felder Adjustable Rebate Cutterhead
Gary or anyone,
I am looking at the Felder?04.1.160 rebate cutter and wonder about how to separate the cutters apart for tenon cutting.? Naturally, there are answers on FOG.? I can only find part 04.3.036 (page 446 of the PDF 2020 catalog) in Felder's 2020 catalog as the only shim set available in the shaper tooling section.? It is listed in the slot cutter section of the catalog.? Is part 04.3.036 compatible with part 04.1.160?? Gary, if you are still around, did you refer to part 04.1.160 in your last post above???
Thanks,
SW
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Re: Felder F38 feeder repair
They probably got something jammed between two of the wheels at some point and cracked the sprockets. Could have been defective sprockets to begin with¡ hard to say if they are machined from solid steel or sintered from powdered metal without looking at one. Regardless, this isn¡¯t something I¡¯ve ever heard of in all the years, so I doubt it¡¯s a frequent occurrence.
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After thinking about Brian's response about the circlips, I unscrewed all of the springs.? With the springs unscrewed and after removing one of the speed change gears from the opposite side, I was able to remove the whole transmission.? Now it will be straightforward to replace the cracked gears.
I just don't know why two drive gears cracked.? Hopefully there isn't something else that caused this.
Thanks everyone for the information!
? ?Dennis
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Re: Tannewitz Brake Questions
Drum brakes are pretty standardized, they will be grouped by diameter and drum width. I doubt you will have much issue finding something that will fit.
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Did some research.? There are two types of electric brakes, magnetic ones where an electro magnet energizes, grabs the hub area of the drum and pulls a lever to activate the brake.? I need to see if I can buy a set that would work with the drums which are integral to the wheels.? If so this is a cheap way to go.? Less than $100 for the brake module and brake shoes etc.? But risk it won¡¯t work with the 1967 AMC brake drum integrated into the wheel. ? The second option is slick but more expensive.? This is an electric-hydraulic brake actuator.? Its basically a master cylinder and solenoid integrated into one package.? The cheapest I found new would be $540 on ebay plus new brake shoes and wheel cylinder etc for the AMC brakes. ? <image001.png> ? Either option also requires a 20A 12V power source.? The second option would for sure work but it¡¯s about $500 more than the first. ? Is having a brake on the top wheel worth $600-700? ? ? Great idea Brian, love it ? ? Go to a trailer supply house, they have all sorts of solenoid actuated brakes, electric and hydraulic. ? ? The solenoid that operated the hydraulic master cylinder was a Cutler Hammer.? I found that Cutler Hammer makes solenoids that may work.? The cheapest one only pulls 0.55lbs and its $699 cheapest online.? Cutler Hammer makes them up to 12.4 lbs and that one is $1350. When I worked in the wire biz we had drawing machines with 50 hp motors with nice disc brakes I expect pretty pricy My Oliver is like Dave K? You might look at Centauro new machines or Zimerman see how they handle it. My best advice is don¡¯t be on the side of the machine when it¡¯s running. Designing and building for 50 years I love the idea of the upper brake. I called and spoke with Tannewitz and they said the hydraulic system was nothing but a headache. ?He also said they used a bunch of different setups over the years.? My saw is direct drive with the drum integrated in the wheel but no brake hardware for that drum.? The upper wheel has the integrated drum and the brakes were all there.? Even the rear plate that holds the drum brakes and wheel cylinder is from a car. ?Apparently the brake parts are all AMC for a Jeep.? ? Near as I can tell this is how it worked. With power off, a spring pulled on the master cylinder shaft to keep the brakes applied. Power on the machine and a large electrical solenoid would energize and take pressure off the master cylinder. ¡¤????????When pressing the stop button the solenoid would lose power and the brakes would be applied. ¡¤????????Press the foot brake lever, which pulls a cable which pulls a lever to press the stop button, now acts like you press stop. ¡¤????????If a blade is too loose a microswitch opens and activates the stop circuit. ¡¤????????If a blade brakes, the tension drops opening a different microswitch activating the stop circuit On my saw the hydraulic system was dry with no fluid, (abandoned) and a modern electronic brake setup like Tannewitz uses today was fitted.? While I would like to have the upper brake the large electrical solenoid for the master cylinder looks to be burned up.? It might be possible to find a replacement which would let me have the brake on the upper wheel.? I will see but not hopeful. Joe, I believe the purpose of the upper brake was to only activate when tension was released quickly as when the blade breaks.? The top wheel locks immediately to keep the blade from chewing up everything.? The bottom brake activates manually with a foot pedal on my Oliver so your Tanny might be different.? The upper safety brake was fairly standard on large old saws.? Dave
I¡¯ve started disassembly and the brakes apparently changed a lot over the years . On my machine both wheels have brake drums integrated but the lower had no brakes.? There is a heavy steel plate that bolts to the motor that has one broken off bolt and a slot crudely cut with a torch.? It¡¯s not clear that drum brakes ever mounted to that plate.? I will remove the upper brakes and the master cylinder. What ever is the simplistic and cheapest I would avoid using a brake Justin case of emergency. In larger machines bigger hp I would use disc brakes . My oliver has an over ride that cuts the motor if the blade brakes than using the manual rub brake. My best advise is don¡¯t stand to the right of the blade so your not buy when blade breaks. martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell Designing and building for 50 years ?My saw serial number says it was built in 1967 and it was built with hydraulic brakes.? At some point it was converted to the electronic brake setup Tannewitz uses now. I have not torn anything down yet, still don't have it off the pallet.? But it looks like the solenoid that drives the master cylinder for the brakes may be fried.??
I had intended to restore it including the brakes but this will be a saw I intend to use and I assume the electronic brake is a better system than the car brake setup. Does anyone have experience?
?
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David P. Best
Ramon Valdez
imran
Jonathan Martens