Re: Seeking Inca #Bandsaw switch
#Bandsaw
Alan,
are you able to verify that the siemens relays are working or not. i do see them available via internet search on PN.
imran
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On Oct 10, 2020, at 3:09 PM, Alan Mix <a.mix@...> wrote: ?I have an old Inca Euro-260 bandsaw - very nice small complement to my larger Felder FB600 bandsaw - but unfortunately the on/off switch died. ?I tried to get parts from incamachines.com in France. They are generally quite helpful, but they don't have this part because my saw is a late model US 115V version (circa 1997,? Type 342.186.15)?and incamachines.com only has the parts for the European models, so they couldn't help on this one. ?According to incamachines.com, those late 1990's machines? The switch assembly is a black plastic box with red and green off/on switches actuated by square buttons, plus a place for a safety lock behind the removable blade cover. ?There is some electronic (early plug-in IC chips) controlled by the switches. ?I've confirmed that the power gets to the switches, but either the switch(es) themselves are broken or the chip(s) are fried. ?I've hunted around but so far no luck, and perhaps this community might know where to find a full switch assembly or compnent parts (or if anyone has a dead Euro-260 in storage and wants to sell me their switch, glad to talk more). It is such a cool little bandsaw I hate to give up on it. ?I haven't found a part number on this thing, but photos attached.?
Thanks to all....?
Alan Mix
Corvallis, OR, USA
<IMG_2529.jpeg> <IMG_2530.jpeg> <IMG_2538.jpeg>
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Re: Seeking Inca #Bandsaw switch
#Bandsaw
Thanks TJ Cornish. There is a safety interlock, but it appears to have broken a long time ago and the two wire from the interlock are joined to bypass. The former owner inked a note on the cover that the interlock was gone, with a caution to unplug from the wall when taking off the cover (apparently from a bad experience).
Some generic starter set is a backup plan, for sure, if I can¡¯t find the orginal part. I don¡¯t know what electronic functions are buried in those Seimens chips. The incamachine guys referred to it a poor design decision of the late 1980s. Oh well.
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On Oct 10, 2020, at 3:25 PM, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote:
Are there safety interlocks on the machine? If not, any generic magnetic motor starter set for the appropriate motor current should be fine.
On Oct 10, 2020, at 5:09 PM, Alan Mix <a.mix@...> wrote:
?I have an old Inca Euro-260 bandsaw - very nice small complement to my larger Felder FB600 bandsaw - but unfortunately the on/off switch died. I tried to get parts from incamachines.com in France. They are generally quite helpful, but they don't have this part because my saw is a late model US 115V version (circa 1997, Type 342.186.15) and incamachines.com only has the parts for the European models, so they couldn't help on this one. According to incamachines.com, those late 1990's machines The switch assembly is a black plastic box with red and green off/on switches actuated by square buttons, plus a place for a safety lock behind the removable blade cover. There is some electronic (early plug-in IC chips) controlled by the switches. I've confirmed that the power gets to the switches, but either the switch(es) themselves are broken or the chip(s) are fried. I've hunted around but so far no luck, and perhaps this community might know where to find a full switch assembly or compnent parts (or if anyone has a dead Euro-260 in storage and wants to sell me their switch, glad to talk more). It is such a cool little bandsaw I hate to give up on it. I haven't found a part number on this thing, but photos attached.
Thanks to all....
Alan Mix
Corvallis, OR, USA
<IMG_2529.jpeg>
<IMG_2530.jpeg>
<IMG_2538.jpeg>
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Re: Seeking Inca #Bandsaw switch
#Bandsaw
Jesse at Eagle Tools in L.A.
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On Oct 10, 2020, at 6:25 PM, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote:
? Are there safety interlocks on the machine? If not, any generic magnetic motor starter set for the appropriate motor current should be fine.? On Oct 10, 2020, at 5:09 PM, Alan Mix <a.mix@...> wrote:
?I have an old Inca Euro-260 bandsaw - very nice small complement to my larger Felder FB600 bandsaw - but unfortunately the on/off switch died. ?I tried to get parts from incamachines.com in France. They are generally quite helpful, but they don't have this part because my saw is a late model US 115V version (circa 1997,? Type 342.186.15)?and incamachines.com only has the parts for the European models, so they couldn't help on this one. ?According to incamachines.com, those late 1990's machines? The switch assembly is a black plastic box with red and green off/on switches actuated by square buttons, plus a place for a safety lock behind the removable blade cover. ?There is some electronic (early plug-in IC chips) controlled by the switches. ?I've confirmed that the power gets to the switches, but either the switch(es) themselves are broken or the chip(s) are fried. ?I've hunted around but so far no luck, and perhaps this community might know where to find a full switch assembly or compnent parts (or if anyone has a dead Euro-260 in storage and wants to sell me their switch, glad to talk more). It is such a cool little bandsaw I hate to give up on it. ?I haven't found a part number on this thing, but photos attached.?
Thanks to all....?
Alan Mix
Corvallis, OR, USA
<IMG_2529.jpeg> <IMG_2530.jpeg> <IMG_2538.jpeg>
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Re: Seeking Inca #Bandsaw switch
#Bandsaw
Are there safety interlocks on the machine? If not, any generic magnetic motor starter set for the appropriate motor current should be fine.?
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On Oct 10, 2020, at 5:09 PM, Alan Mix <a.mix@...> wrote:
?I have an old Inca Euro-260 bandsaw - very nice small complement to my larger Felder FB600 bandsaw - but unfortunately the on/off switch died. ?I tried to get parts from incamachines.com in France. They are generally quite helpful, but they don't have this part because my saw is a late model US 115V version (circa 1997,? Type 342.186.15)?and incamachines.com only has the parts for the European models, so they couldn't help on this one. ?According to incamachines.com, those late 1990's machines? The switch assembly is a black plastic box with red and green off/on switches actuated by square buttons, plus a place for a safety lock behind the removable blade cover. ?There is some electronic (early plug-in IC chips) controlled by the switches. ?I've confirmed that the power gets to the switches, but either the switch(es) themselves are broken or the chip(s) are fried. ?I've hunted around but so far no luck, and perhaps this community might know where to find a full switch assembly or compnent parts (or if anyone has a dead Euro-260 in storage and wants to sell me their switch, glad to talk more). It is such a cool little bandsaw I hate to give up on it. ?I haven't found a part number on this thing, but photos attached.?
Thanks to all....?
Alan Mix
Corvallis, OR, USA
<IMG_2529.jpeg> <IMG_2530.jpeg> <IMG_2538.jpeg>
|
I have an old Inca Euro-260 bandsaw - very nice small complement to my larger Felder FB600 bandsaw - but unfortunately the on/off switch died. ?I tried to get parts from incamachines.com in France. They are generally quite helpful, but they don't have this part because my saw is a late model US 115V version (circa 1997,?Type 342.186.15)?and incamachines.com only has the parts for the European models, so they couldn't help on this one. ?According to incamachines.com, those late 1990's machines?The switch assembly is a black plastic box with red and green off/on switches actuated by square buttons, plus a place for a safety lock behind the removable blade cover. ?There is some electronic (early plug-in IC chips) controlled by the switches. ?I've confirmed that the power gets to the switches, but either the switch(es) themselves are broken or the chip(s) are fried. ?I've hunted around but so far no luck, and perhaps this community might know where to find a full switch assembly or compnent parts (or if anyone has a dead Euro-260 in storage and wants to sell me their switch, glad to talk more). It is such a cool little bandsaw I hate to give up on it. ?I haven't found a part number on this thing, but photos attached.?
Thanks to all....?
Alan Mix
Corvallis, OR, USA
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Re: How to lift Tannewitz Bandsaw off pallet
Joe, is there a threaded hole in the upper arm behind the wheel for an eyebolt?? The PH weighs 1800 lbs and supposedly the C frame is thick and reinforced.? Minimum height is listed at 6'9" so you must be close ( 7' doors should be outlawed ).? Dave
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The challenge I¡¯m seeing is there is not places I can see to attach straps to.? If I remove the top wheel and brake stuff I could lift from the top of the arm but I¡¯m
not sure that¡¯s strong enough.? I¡¯d really like to work on the machine in the shop and not on the driveway in the sun.? The seller (LA School District) obviously lifted it onto a pallet so there must be a way to lift it off the pallet.? Maybe their lift was
sketchy and most certainly was done with a forklift.? There is a ring on the motor and I¡¯m told that giant 875 RPM 5HP motor weights 350 lbs.? I can¡¯t see lifting the machine from that ring as it¡¯s too low and the machine would rotate.
?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of
David Davies
Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2020 9:30 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] How to lift Tannewitz Bandsaw off pallet
?
I bought a HF gantry crane to lift my MM bandsaw off the pallet
?
On Sat, Oct 10, 2020 at 11:26 AM David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
I've not lifted mine but I'm assuming the top wheel itself is too high and not just the guard rail.? The good news is a good condition PH probably has better resale value than a 36".? They are much rarer.? Dave
Hi all, I am back from picking up the Tannewitz I bought on auction.? I'm disappointed that it was a PH 30" and not a 36" but that's a risk I took with the sketchy listing.? At $775 with only one small broken part I think I did ok.? It's in a the bed of a drop
deck trailer out front of my shop. The pallet its strapped to is 6" high making it a couple inches too tall to roll into the shop.? I want to lift it off the pallet and place the permanent oak skids underneath.? I don't see any factory lift points.? ?I'm sure
someone here has done this.? There will be many more questions, the brake system must be non-functional as an electronic brake.? I will want to get that all back to original
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: How to lift Tannewitz Bandsaw off pallet
The challenge I¡¯m seeing is there is not places I can see to attach straps to.? If I remove the top wheel and brake stuff I could lift from the top
of the arm but I¡¯m not sure that¡¯s strong enough.? I¡¯d really like to work on the machine in the shop and not on the driveway in the sun.? The seller (LA School District) obviously lifted it onto a pallet so there must be a way to lift it off the pallet.?
Maybe their lift was sketchy and most certainly was done with a forklift.? There is a ring on the motor and I¡¯m told that giant 875 RPM 5HP motor weights 350 lbs.? I can¡¯t see lifting the machine from that ring as it¡¯s too low and the machine would rotate.
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of David Davies
Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2020 9:30 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] How to lift Tannewitz Bandsaw off pallet
?
I bought a HF gantry crane to lift my MM bandsaw off the pallet
?
On Sat, Oct 10, 2020 at 11:26 AM David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
I've not lifted mine but I'm assuming the top wheel itself is too high and not just the guard rail.? The good news is a good condition PH probably has better resale value than a 36".? They are
much rarer.? Dave
Hi all, I am back from picking up the Tannewitz I bought on auction.? I'm disappointed that it was a PH 30" and not a 36" but that's a risk I took with the sketchy listing.? At $775 with only one small broken part I think I did ok.? It's
in a the bed of a drop deck trailer out front of my shop. The pallet its strapped to is 6" high making it a couple inches too tall to roll into the shop.? I want to lift it off the pallet and place the permanent oak skids underneath.? I don't see any factory
lift points.? ?I'm sure someone here has done this.? There will be many more questions, the brake system must be non-functional as an electronic brake.? I will want to get that all back to original
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: How to lift Tannewitz Bandsaw off pallet
I bought a HF gantry crane to lift my MM bandsaw off the pallet Dave Davies
On Sat, Oct 10, 2020 at 11:26 AM David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
I've not lifted mine but I'm assuming the top wheel itself is too high and not just the guard rail.? The good news is a good condition PH probably has better resale value than a 36".? They are much rarer.? Dave
Hi all, I am back from picking up the Tannewitz I bought on auction.? I'm disappointed that it was a PH 30" and not a 36" but that's a risk I took with the sketchy listing.? At $775 with only one small broken part I think I did ok.? It's in a the bed of
a drop deck trailer out front of my shop. The pallet its strapped to is 6" high making it a couple inches too tall to roll into the shop.? I want to lift it off the pallet and place the permanent oak skids underneath.? I don't see any factory lift points.?
?I'm sure someone here has done this.? There will be many more questions, the brake system must be non-functional as an electronic brake.? I will want to get that all back to original
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: How to lift Tannewitz Bandsaw off pallet
I've not lifted mine but I'm assuming the top wheel itself is too high and not just the guard rail.? The good news is a good condition PH probably has better resale value than a 36".? They are much rarer.? Dave
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Show quoted text
Hi all, I am back from picking up the Tannewitz I bought on auction.? I'm disappointed that it was a PH 30" and not a 36" but that's a risk I took with the sketchy listing.? At $775 with only one small broken part I think I did ok.? It's in a the bed of
a drop deck trailer out front of my shop. The pallet its strapped to is 6" high making it a couple inches too tall to roll into the shop.? I want to lift it off the pallet and place the permanent oak skids underneath.? I don't see any factory lift points.?
?I'm sure someone here has done this.? There will be many more questions, the brake system must be non-functional as an electronic brake.? I will want to get that all back to original
|
How to lift Tannewitz Bandsaw off pallet
Hi all, I am back from picking up the Tannewitz I bought on auction.? I'm disappointed that it was a PH 30" and not a 36" but that's a risk I took with the sketchy listing.? At $775 with only one small broken part I think I did ok.? It's in a the bed of a drop deck trailer out front of my shop. The pallet its strapped to is 6" high making it a couple inches too tall to roll into the shop.? I want to lift it off the pallet and place the permanent oak skids underneath.? I don't see any factory lift points.? ?I'm sure someone here has done this.? There will be many more questions, the brake system must be non-functional as an electronic brake.? I will want to get that all back to original
|
On Wed, Oct 7, 2020 at 12:46 PM, David W wrote:
I have an older A3-31, and if I do not keep the planer bed waxed, I get ¡°grabbing¡± and snipe in the infeed. ?I don¡¯t know if this will help on the out feed. ?I use Johnson furniture wax to lubricate the jointer and planer beds.
-David
?Hey David, ?I? do keep the the table well waxed with a similar product. Thanks for the input?
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Re: Hammer C3 31 Electrical issue
#hammer
So it turns out that the brake board was bad.? I ordered a new one from Klinger Born in Germany for about 118 Euros (including shipping).? I replaced the brake board, and everything started right up with no further issues.
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Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
Pretty sure I shot for a 4¡± wide bevel, but it¡¯s been so many years ago I can¡¯t remember for sure. I know I needed the whole 12¡± blade.
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FWIW, i found this used on Ebay in April. the cutting length is 60mm. it will do a bevel similar to Brian¡¯s table but not sure if it can do exactly what Brian did. <image0.jpeg>
imran ? Maybe you should have used a chisel :) Dave Davies On Fri, Oct 9, 2020 at 7:45 AM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: A tall cutter would have worked on smaller parts, but that table was over 6¡¯ long and I might have been able to do the two long edges, would have hit the ceiling trying to do the narrow ones. I¡¯m sure a talented person could have done it with a hand plane¡ but that¡¯s not me...
On Oct 8, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Mark Foster < mfsta2lt@...> wrote:
Brian,
This is the major reason I bought the KF with a 9¡¯ slider. I could just see doing something like this! I really like my 4¡± tall spiral cutter with bearing for profiling larger parts.
Mark Foster On Oct 8, 2020, at 8:01 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
The bevel was a real butt pucker set up¡. This picture is kind of dark, but you can see the shaper with the blade on it. I raised the actual table up with two layers of 3/4¡± ply to get it tall enough to cut as thin as I wanted, but not have the other end of the blade hit the table.?On Oct 8, 2020, at 7:05 PM, Mark Foster < mfsta2lt@...> wrote:
Brian,
Thank you for posting. I really like the Maple and Bubinga contrast. The taper on the underside of the table top is elegant.
Marl Foster On Oct 8, 2020, at 6:35 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Thank you! Like your table too, definitely a different look with the tenon on the lower section.On Oct 8, 2020, at 3:30 PM, mark thomas < murkyd@...> wrote:
Brian,?
Nice table, I like the 3-sided tapered legs and different wood feet.? Loosely reminds me of this walnut taper leg and koa foot I once did, which also has an odd mortise and tenon on diagonal.? ?
Michael, the stool is very nice, the joint seems perfect for it.? Is the one in photo tapered however?? ?How will you attach the slats?
<IMG_0695.jpeg>
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
FWIW, i found this used on Ebay in April. the cutting length is 60mm. it will do a bevel similar to Brian¡¯s table but not sure if it can do exactly what Brian did.
imran
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On Oct 9, 2020, at 8:54 AM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote: ? Maybe you should have used a chisel :) Dave Davies On Fri, Oct 9, 2020 at 7:45 AM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: A tall cutter would have worked on smaller parts, but that table was over 6¡¯ long and I might have been able to do the two long edges, would have hit the ceiling trying to do the narrow ones. I¡¯m sure a talented person could have done it with a hand plane¡ but that¡¯s not me...
On Oct 8, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Mark Foster < mfsta2lt@...> wrote:
Brian,
This is the major reason I bought the KF with a 9¡¯ slider. I could just see doing something like this! I really like my 4¡± tall spiral cutter with bearing for profiling larger parts.
Mark Foster On Oct 8, 2020, at 8:01 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
The bevel was a real butt pucker set up¡. This picture is kind of dark, but you can see the shaper with the blade on it. I raised the actual table up with two layers of 3/4¡± ply to get it tall enough to cut as thin as I wanted, but not have the other end of the blade hit the table.?On Oct 8, 2020, at 7:05 PM, Mark Foster < mfsta2lt@...> wrote:
Brian,
Thank you for posting. I really like the Maple and Bubinga contrast. The taper on the underside of the table top is elegant.
Marl Foster On Oct 8, 2020, at 6:35 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Thank you! Like your table too, definitely a different look with the tenon on the lower section.On Oct 8, 2020, at 3:30 PM, mark thomas < murkyd@...> wrote:
Brian,?
Nice table, I like the 3-sided tapered legs and different wood feet.? Loosely reminds me of this walnut taper leg and koa foot I once did, which also has an odd mortise and tenon on diagonal.? ?
Michael, the stool is very nice, the joint seems perfect for it.? Is the one in photo tapered however?? ?How will you attach the slats?
<IMG_0695.jpeg>
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Applying Biesemeyer Tape
Randy and Mark,
thanks for the feedback. i would do the clean and stick. just wanted to avoid the messy adhesive if possible.
imran?
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On Oct 9, 2020, at 9:12 AM, Randy Child via groups.io <strongman_one@...> wrote: ?
I stuck mine down after cleaning the fence with acetone.. never had an issue with it coming loose.. I did not use the spray adhesive either
On Friday, October 9, 2020, 06:07:36 AM PDT, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
Imran, I do the same as Brian. Maybe if ¡°substrate¡± is porous they are recommending that so the ¡°substrate¡± doesn¡¯t suck up some of the pre-applied stick on the tape and weaken the bond. ? On Oct 9, 2020, at 8:55 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?
The Starrett Measure-Stix I use are self adhesive and you can stick them to pretty much anything. I usually clean with an alcohol swab right before I stick them down to make sure no oils are present. My cross cut fences clamp the tape measures in place, they are not stuck down¡. but I don¡¯t have the short fence so maybe it¡¯s different.
i got following for the short xcut fence.
even though it is adhesive backed, directions say to use a spray adhesive on the substrate before fixing it. i was not expecting to have to do that. does anyone know if this is necessary?
imran?
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Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
Thank you, that¡¯s actually an ancient project, think it was about 2002. I couldn¡¯t bring myself to sell or throw the table out when we sold that house and moved, so the top got repurposed to be the table for my 3D printer and the legs are still stuck on a shelf out in the shop for a possible future project.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On Oct 8, 2020, at 8:44 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Wow! WTG Brian!!
Lucky
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Re: Applying Biesemeyer Tape
thanks Brian. you are correct, the scale is held in channel not glued. i have not opened the package but i expect this to be not stiff enough to be used on it¡¯s own. i intend to stick it to the AL band that came with the short xcut fence. i was torn between this and a steel option from mcmaster carr. there was not a good pic of scale markings on mcmaster and biesemeyer is recommended in survival guide.
BTW, not a fan of the AL bands. once accidentally bent it is almost impossible to make if lay flat.
imran
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On Oct 9, 2020, at 8:55 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote: ? The Starrett Measure-Stix I use are self adhesive and you can stick them to pretty much anything. I usually clean with an alcohol swab right before I stick them down to make sure no oils are present. My cross cut fences clamp the tape measures in place, they are not stuck down¡. but I don¡¯t have the short fence so maybe it¡¯s different.
i got following for the short xcut fence.
even though it is adhesive backed, directions say to use a spray adhesive on the substrate before fixing it. i was not expecting to have to do that. does anyone know if this is necessary?
imran?
|
Re: Applying Biesemeyer Tape
I stuck mine down after cleaning the fence with acetone.. never had an issue with it coming loose.. I did not use the spray adhesive either
On Friday, October 9, 2020, 06:07:36 AM PDT, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
Imran, I do the same as Brian. Maybe if ¡°substrate¡± is porous they are recommending that so the ¡°substrate¡± doesn¡¯t suck up some of the pre-applied stick on the tape and weaken the bond. ? On Oct 9, 2020, at 8:55 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?
The Starrett Measure-Stix I use are self adhesive and you can stick them to pretty much anything. I usually clean with an alcohol swab right before I stick them down to make sure no oils are present. My cross cut fences clamp the tape measures in place, they are not stuck down¡. but I don¡¯t have the short fence so maybe it¡¯s different.
i got following for the short xcut fence.
even though it is adhesive backed, directions say to use a spray adhesive on the substrate before fixing it. i was not expecting to have to do that. does anyone know if this is necessary?
imran?
|
Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
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Maybe you should have used a chisel :) Dave Davies On Fri, Oct 9, 2020 at 7:45 AM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: A tall cutter would have worked on smaller parts, but that table was over 6¡¯ long and I might have been able to do the two long edges, would have hit the ceiling trying to do the narrow ones. I¡¯m sure a talented person could have done it with a hand plane¡ but that¡¯s not me...
On Oct 8, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Mark Foster < mfsta2lt@...> wrote:
Brian,
This is the major reason I bought the KF with a 9¡¯ slider. I could just see doing something like this! I really like my 4¡± tall spiral cutter with bearing for profiling larger parts.
Mark Foster On Oct 8, 2020, at 8:01 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
The bevel was a real butt pucker set up¡. This picture is kind of dark, but you can see the shaper with the blade on it. I raised the actual table up with two layers of 3/4¡± ply to get it tall enough to cut as thin as I wanted, but not have the other end of the blade hit the table.?On Oct 8, 2020, at 7:05 PM, Mark Foster < mfsta2lt@...> wrote:
Brian,
Thank you for posting. I really like the Maple and Bubinga contrast. The taper on the underside of the table top is elegant.
Marl Foster On Oct 8, 2020, at 6:35 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Thank you! Like your table too, definitely a different look with the tenon on the lower section.On Oct 8, 2020, at 3:30 PM, mark thomas < murkyd@...> wrote:
Brian,?
Nice table, I like the 3-sided tapered legs and different wood feet.? Loosely reminds me of this walnut taper leg and koa foot I once did, which also has an odd mortise and tenon on diagonal.? ?
Michael, the stool is very nice, the joint seems perfect for it.? Is the one in photo tapered however?? ?How will you attach the slats?
<IMG_0695.jpeg>
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
I built the legs and stand offs, drilled the mounting holes, laid the top upside down on a table, positioned the legs/base where I wanted it, spot drilled into the table bottom to mark the locations. Took the legs off and enlarged the holes in the top for brass inserts with machined threads on the inside, installed them. Then I took the base assembly and enlarged the holes from the top side part way thru. then, once everything was finished and bolted together, there was room for the bolts to tilt slightly with expansion and contraction.
Probably all over kill here in AZ, we don¡¯t have much trouble with that sort of thing.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On Oct 9, 2020, at 5:54 AM, Marlowe McGraw <marlomcgraw@...> wrote:
Well done Brian! How did you account for movement of the top in your attachment?
Marlowe
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imran
Joe Jensen