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Thanks Imran, I will definately? travel to see it before i purchase. My dealer here had suggested the same as you about removing the slider for transport, its for sale through another dealer who took

I agree Cliff, access is always best and can actually be a design feature. Wood density has so much to do with this equation. rohrabacher@...> wrote:

Chris, I would not buy a saw without checking in person unless you know the seller. It can look nice and new but it is possible to destroy the slider without any sign of physical abuse. Make sure the

Chris, As I searched for a used saw I came across at least couple of Kappa 450s. I was advised against these ax being orphan models that may not get a lot of support from Felder. They were also new

Thanks Dave, thats good to hear yes the saw is in great shape and has definately been looked after comes with DRO stops and rip-fence and plenty of supports for the table etc.. I was just concerned as

Over the decades I've put plenty of furniture and other wood structure together with? machine bolts, This is what I've learned: ?In one short sentence: *Machine bolts are unreliable in wood when

If the saw is in good condition, I'd not be afraid of the Pro glide. It was more expensive to manufacture and supposedly a little more stout of build than the X roll. The additional cost was not

I would use Loctite 242, that’s the medium strength blue version. It can be taken back apart with some difficulty, but the screws shouldn’t loosen on their own. Make sure both pieces, bolt and

Hello Guys I am after a little advice I have come across a Kappa 450 with Pro glide slider and am hoping some of you here might be familar with it and be able to share your experience and knowledge of

Not that great on cutting tools either but if warranted then not sure of any viable alternatives. I sure would like to know if a lighter substitute is available. Imran

It is great for most veneer work. If only it wasn’t so heavy… And the dust is a big drawback.

When we experience loose or worn threads we dab yellow glue and/or urethane glue in place of loctite, based on how much trouble we've had undoing other people's sloppy repair jobs, it works pretty

I use MDF when doing marquetry or any form of veneer work, only because of it's stability and total lack of expanding or contracting.. Paul Schurch who was my marquetarian teacher for years was the

I've always left the back slat of the drawer box cut short enough where notching is not needed at all.. The bottom is set in a dado groove on the sides and front.? The bottom is secured to the back

Yes most of us do mainly because of the fine dust. Its gotten a bad reputation from inept woodworkers that use it in a wrong application and don't understand how to work with it. Fine Woodworking and

and a "chuckle" it did.. well..more like a full out laugh!? I can see it now.. "Honey!! c'ome here a sec!!

Nothing wrong. Hopefully will provide a chuckle to many in the morning. Imran

Damn autocorrect. Guess I should’ve proof read.

Mike I refinished our 1980 Teak dining room chairs 2 or 3 years ago. Part of the process was complete disassembly and the backs were held the same way and also plugged. The main parts that loosened

Mike, “should I lactate the threaded insert”, I do not advise that but more power to you if you are able to do so, LOL I do not see a down side to using the thread lock. Imran