¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io
Date

blades talk

Scott Slater
 

With all this talk about blades on the table saw, and me not even having a
Felder table saw to use (until May), I feel left out. But, today I bought a
Lenox Tri Master Carbide blade for my bandsaw (not a Felder but an
Agazzani), it is incredible. I cannot believe how well it cuts, much faster
feed rate, much smoother finish. They are not cheap (200$) but worth every
penny. It might even make the Laguna, I mean Felder, work well...


Scott Slater
scott@...
www.studiouw.com


Re: Table saw blade noise

 

My tablesaw noise doesn't sound extrordinarily loud. It does have a
"serious, industrial" powerful sound to it though. I also used to have
a BT 3000, like Charlie, and it was anoyingly loud. I also got into the
habit of wearing ear protectors, in reaction to many other horrendously
loud tools, such as a bench top portable planner, Sears shop vac :(
,etc. My KF-7 is 3 phase, I haven't heard a single phase machine, that
is interesting though, that there is a noise level difference.
I think the ear protectors are a good habit, besides, when the nurse
comes to tell me that my 80 year old son is in the lobby to visit me
(he's 31 now), maybe I'll be able to hear her ;)

Taylor







"geoff shepherd" <geof-@...> wrote:
original article:
=213
Another question for the group...

It seems to me that the saw on my BF6-31 is two or three times louder
than a
typical 10" cabinet saw. Most of the noise is a loud high-pitched
wooshing
of air, and both of my 12" blades (one a Felder, the other a Forrest)
create
about the same intensity of noise. The higher the blade is raised, the
louder it gets. When it is lowered below the surface of the table, it
is
more tolerable, but that doesn't do much for cutting wood. Two other
woodworking friends I have demo'd the machine for have commented,
"man,
that's loud" in regards to the table saw. So, this is all subjective,
but it
is quite noticeable. I was hoping it was just the Felder blade that
was
noisy, but was disappointed to find my new Forrest blade is just as
loud.

Is this just the nature of a 12" blade? Could it be that the saw is
running
20% faster on 60 Hz power vs. 50 Hz, or is there a different pulley
ratio
for US-destined machines to compensate for this?

...Geoff


Re: Table saw blade noise

Philip Tamarkin
 

...at 4000 rpm/12" blade, you're at 12,500+ peripheral ft/minute which is pretty fast.
Wouldn't you have to have pronounced run-out to make a real difference in noise?
Possibility of a bad bearing transmitting and amplifying through the blade?
Sympathetic vibration from something else on the machine resonating in sync w/the
blade? Interesting problem! BTW, my saw is a single phase

Rod Barton wrote:

Geoff,

Wow, here I thought it was the aroma of Tacoma that was making my
blades run louder, but it's the air ehh.

Actually I did find that the 12" blade running on the Felder has a
noticeably more powerful sound to it than my old Delta 10". I believe
the Felder runs at about 4000 RPM vs. 3600 RPM for most 10" saws which
would account for the increased pitch in sound. I've found that I can
cut faster and have a lot less tearout when cutting my morning bagel
now with the Felder so the coffee is still hot when I get done.

If you think that you are getting an excessively high pitched sound,
you might want to use a dial indicator to check the run-out on your
blades. The run-out or wobble as some call it, will increase blade
sound enough to drive you out of the shop. I'm sure you are aware it's
best to completely disconnected from the power source prior to checking
the blades. If you find that there is no noticeable run-out the only
other suggestion I have is to stuff a little more cotton into the old
ear protectors because what you are hearing is an industrial saw at
work.

Re: Mortis Cutter Bits. I was thinking about checking Boeing surplus
for cutters. A lot of times they have excess bins stuffed with end
mills and such.



philip tamarkin <tamarki-@...> wrote:
original article:
=219
If you're not getting a good kerf running the saw without a blade you
need to raise the
splitter a bit - should sit about 1/4" below where the top of the
blade would be if
there was a blade there.

I've got my saw set up with a nice overarm guard system
(Excalibur...) that I've hung
from the ceiling. it's got good dust collection, so maybe it sucks
up noise along with
the dust! I'll try running the saw tomorrow w/o the guard to see if
it changes the
noise levels...

The Seattle thick fog explains everything. That stuff is dense! You
might want to
bring it into your shop in thin sheets to lessen the load on the
saw...

A smart guy with some measuring equipment for the pulleys and the
ability to read the
nameplate rpms on the sawmotor could probably figure out the arbor
rpms pretty damn
fast! Best, Philip

Geoff Shepherd wrote:

Interesting... this saw runs with more noise than even my Shopsmith
(in
table saw mode), which was louder than a good contractor's saw due
to the
variable speed Reeves drive system. Cutting performance on the
BF6-31 has
been satisfactory so far, just very noisy. The other way I've
reduced the
noise is by removing the blade entirely, but then I seem to have a
problem
with the kerf not forming at all. Not sure what's up with that.

Here in the Seattle area the air is thick like good coffee. Maybe
the blades
just get all buzzed up with caffeine or something.

I have considered modifying the clear crown guard with pivoting
side guards
to help contain the noise, offer additional protection, and provide
a longer
lifting ramp in front to ride up on approaching stock. On the other
hand, if
my saw is just running too fast, then that's patching the symptom
rather
than finding the cure.

Given my sometimes preoccupation with quiet-running tools, I should
probably
go pick up one of those sound-level meters from Radio Shack. Either
that or
go completely Neanderthal... :-)

...Geoff
----- Original Message -----
From: Philip Tamarkin
To: felder-woodworking@...
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 7:04 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Table saw blade noise

My BF-5 runs quietly compared to my earlier cabinet saws, even with
the 12"
blades. I've got the Felder standard universal and the
fancy-schmantzy
"Silent Power" blades - the Silent Power (God, the marketing
department must
stay up late thinking of these names!) is probably a tad quieter.
Bought a
Tenryu panel blade that I'm using currently, and highly recommend -
best
blade I've ever used out of the box - similar volume to the others.
If
Felder doesn't modify the drive pulleys for 60hz/50hz they need to
- optimum
blade speed should be right around 10,000 peripheral feet per
minute - much
faster than that and you'll be doing more burning than cutting, and
will
probably kill blades pretty quickly.
On reflection, I think your noise problem may be related to your
local air -
where do you live? I'm in Mendocino county, and maybe the air here
is
thinner and causes less resistance to the blade! Might also
explain the
plethora of air-heads that we have around here!! -Philip

-------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubsc
ribe@...
------------------------------------------------------------------------
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

------------------------------------------------------------------------

eGroups.com home:
- Simplifying group communications


Re: Table saw blade noise

 

Geoff,

Wow, here I thought it was the aroma of Tacoma that was making my
blades run louder, but it's the air ehh.

Actually I did find that the 12" blade running on the Felder has a
noticeably more powerful sound to it than my old Delta 10". I believe
the Felder runs at about 4000 RPM vs. 3600 RPM for most 10" saws which
would account for the increased pitch in sound. I've found that I can
cut faster and have a lot less tearout when cutting my morning bagel
now with the Felder so the coffee is still hot when I get done.

If you think that you are getting an excessively high pitched sound,
you might want to use a dial indicator to check the run-out on your
blades. The run-out or wobble as some call it, will increase blade
sound enough to drive you out of the shop. I'm sure you are aware it's
best to completely disconnected from the power source prior to checking
the blades. If you find that there is no noticeable run-out the only
other suggestion I have is to stuff a little more cotton into the old
ear protectors because what you are hearing is an industrial saw at
work.

Re: Mortis Cutter Bits. I was thinking about checking Boeing surplus
for cutters. A lot of times they have excess bins stuffed with end
mills and such.




philip tamarkin <tamarki-@...> wrote:
original article:
=219
If you're not getting a good kerf running the saw without a blade you
need to raise the
splitter a bit - should sit about 1/4" below where the top of the
blade would be if
there was a blade there.

I've got my saw set up with a nice overarm guard system
(Excalibur...) that I've hung
from the ceiling. it's got good dust collection, so maybe it sucks
up noise along with
the dust! I'll try running the saw tomorrow w/o the guard to see if
it changes the
noise levels...

The Seattle thick fog explains everything. That stuff is dense! You
might want to
bring it into your shop in thin sheets to lessen the load on the
saw...

A smart guy with some measuring equipment for the pulleys and the
ability to read the
nameplate rpms on the sawmotor could probably figure out the arbor
rpms pretty damn
fast! Best, Philip

Geoff Shepherd wrote:

Interesting... this saw runs with more noise than even my Shopsmith
(in
table saw mode), which was louder than a good contractor's saw due
to the
variable speed Reeves drive system. Cutting performance on the
BF6-31 has
been satisfactory so far, just very noisy. The other way I've
reduced the
noise is by removing the blade entirely, but then I seem to have a
problem
with the kerf not forming at all. Not sure what's up with that.

Here in the Seattle area the air is thick like good coffee. Maybe
the blades
just get all buzzed up with caffeine or something.

I have considered modifying the clear crown guard with pivoting
side guards
to help contain the noise, offer additional protection, and provide
a longer
lifting ramp in front to ride up on approaching stock. On the other
hand, if
my saw is just running too fast, then that's patching the symptom
rather
than finding the cure.

Given my sometimes preoccupation with quiet-running tools, I should
probably
go pick up one of those sound-level meters from Radio Shack. Either
that or
go completely Neanderthal... :-)

...Geoff
----- Original Message -----
From: Philip Tamarkin
To: felder-woodworking@...
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 7:04 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Table saw blade noise

My BF-5 runs quietly compared to my earlier cabinet saws, even with
the 12"
blades. I've got the Felder standard universal and the
fancy-schmantzy
"Silent Power" blades - the Silent Power (God, the marketing
department must
stay up late thinking of these names!) is probably a tad quieter.
Bought a
Tenryu panel blade that I'm using currently, and highly recommend -
best
blade I've ever used out of the box - similar volume to the others.
If
Felder doesn't modify the drive pulleys for 60hz/50hz they need to
- optimum
blade speed should be right around 10,000 peripheral feet per
minute - much
faster than that and you'll be doing more burning than cutting, and
will
probably kill blades pretty quickly.
On reflection, I think your noise problem may be related to your
local air -
where do you live? I'm in Mendocino county, and maybe the air here
is
thinner and causes less resistance to the blade! Might also
explain the
plethora of air-heads that we have around here!! -Philip

-------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubsc
ribe@...


Re: Table saw blade noise

Charlie Norton
 

My original machine was single phase and it was somewhat noisier than the 3
phase I have now. The scream of the blade through the air is the same, but
the cabinet noise is much reduced. The air noise of the blade is very
apparent with the Felder...I thought I was the only one who noticed.

I used to have a Ryobi BT3000 which was very noisy. I got into the habit of
wearing ear protection, so I haven't really been too sensitive to the sounds
from the Felder. I would be surprised if Felder had not accounted for the
fact that US machines are run from 60 Hz, what with the safety issues
involved.

-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Shepherd <geoff@...>
To: felder-woodworking@... <felder-woodworking@...>
Date: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 6:45 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Table saw blade noise


Another question for the group...

It seems to me that the saw on my BF6-31 is two or three times louder than
a
typical 10" cabinet saw. Most of the noise is a loud high-pitched wooshing
of air, and both of my 12" blades (one a Felder, the other a Forrest)
create
about the same intensity of noise. The higher the blade is raised, the
louder it gets. When it is lowered below the surface of the table, it is
more tolerable, but that doesn't do much for cutting wood. Two other
woodworking friends I have demo'd the machine for have commented, "man,
that's loud" in regards to the table saw. So, this is all subjective, but
it
is quite noticeable. I was hoping it was just the Felder blade that was
noisy, but was disappointed to find my new Forrest blade is just as loud.

Is this just the nature of a 12" blade? Could it be that the saw is running
20% faster on 60 Hz power vs. 50 Hz, or is there a different pulley ratio
for US-destined machines to compensate for this?

...Geoff



------------------------------------------------------------------------
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!
--



Re: Mortising Table

Richard McComas
 

Real men don't need a mortiser transporter.

The reason I'm not a real man is I got to thinking how much it would cost me if I was to
accidentally dropped the unit while manhandling it. Also if I was to twist the wrong way when
lifting the 120 lb. my chiropractor charges $ 100.00 a visit and besides that I could use a
smaller beer bottle holder. Rich

Philip Tamarkin wrote:

...use the mortiser happily with end mills - Reid Supply has a good selection, particularly
extra-long sizes. It isn't any big deal to pull the mortiser off without the cute 'lil
carriage that Felder sells, though I admit that mine lives on the machine unless I have a
substantial amount of jointing to do. REAL men won't have any trouble removing and
replacing the mortiser without the carriage. In my shop, anything on wheels becomes a
catchall for spare tools, beer bottles, etc! -Philip

Richard McComas wrote:

Geoff, I have a AD-41 with the mortising unit that hangs on the side. I have tried
the Felder bits as well as the regular up and down spiral bits like you get from Jesada
and a spiral end mill bit. I haven't used any of the bits for an extended period so I
may change my mind latter but for now I see no difference in the quality of the cut
between any of the bits mentioned. A John R stated the Felder bits are the easiest to
center up but for me I find the Felder bits a littler harder to control the depth of
the cut. They seem to respond quicker than the other bits and tent to cut to deep and
that makes the sideways cutting action little more difficult. This problem may be
just that I need a littler more practice with them. I see no difference between the
carbide spiral bits and spiral end mills bits, they both cut clean mortises and I
believe the end mills bits are a bit more aggressive than carbide spiral bits . The
end mills and carbide spiral bits take more presser on the joy stick and the bits
doesn't cut as fast but gives me more control. Of course the cost of the end mills
make them attractive but I don't know what their longevity is compared to the others.
One other thing in favor of the Felder bits is the length, the are quite bit longer
than the others. Rich

Geoff Shepherd wrote:

Since my used BF6-31 didn't come with the mortising table, I'm sure I will
eventually get one on order. I see there are at least two kinds of mortising
bits: "precision bits", and well, I guess that would make the other kind
"sloppy bits." :-) What about using spiral end mills? I'm just curious what
other folks are using and why.

Does anyone use the mortising table without the optional carriage?

Thanks for your comments.
..Geoff

------------------------------------------------------------------------
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...

To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

------------------------------------------------------------------------

eGroups.com home:
- Simplifying group communications
------------------------------------------------------------------------
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

------------------------------------------------------------------------

eGroups.com home:
- Simplifying group communications
------------------------------------------------------------------------
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...

To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault
--


Re: Table saw blade noise

Philip Tamarkin
 

If you're not getting a good kerf running the saw without a blade you need to raise the
splitter a bit - should sit about 1/4" below where the top of the blade would be if
there was a blade there.

I've got my saw set up with a nice overarm guard system (Excalibur...) that I've hung
from the ceiling. it's got good dust collection, so maybe it sucks up noise along with
the dust! I'll try running the saw tomorrow w/o the guard to see if it changes the
noise levels...

The Seattle thick fog explains everything. That stuff is dense! You might want to
bring it into your shop in thin sheets to lessen the load on the saw...

A smart guy with some measuring equipment for the pulleys and the ability to read the
nameplate rpms on the sawmotor could probably figure out the arbor rpms pretty damn
fast! Best, Philip

Geoff Shepherd wrote:

Interesting... this saw runs with more noise than even my Shopsmith (in
table saw mode), which was louder than a good contractor's saw due to the
variable speed Reeves drive system. Cutting performance on the BF6-31 has
been satisfactory so far, just very noisy. The other way I've reduced the
noise is by removing the blade entirely, but then I seem to have a problem
with the kerf not forming at all. Not sure what's up with that.

Here in the Seattle area the air is thick like good coffee. Maybe the blades
just get all buzzed up with caffeine or something.

I have considered modifying the clear crown guard with pivoting side guards
to help contain the noise, offer additional protection, and provide a longer
lifting ramp in front to ride up on approaching stock. On the other hand, if
my saw is just running too fast, then that's patching the symptom rather
than finding the cure.

Given my sometimes preoccupation with quiet-running tools, I should probably
go pick up one of those sound-level meters from Radio Shack. Either that or
go completely Neanderthal... :-)

...Geoff
----- Original Message -----
From: Philip Tamarkin
To: felder-woodworking@...
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 7:04 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Table saw blade noise

My BF-5 runs quietly compared to my earlier cabinet saws, even with the 12"
blades. I've got the Felder standard universal and the fancy-schmantzy
"Silent Power" blades - the Silent Power (God, the marketing department must
stay up late thinking of these names!) is probably a tad quieter. Bought a
Tenryu panel blade that I'm using currently, and highly recommend - best
blade I've ever used out of the box - similar volume to the others. If
Felder doesn't modify the drive pulleys for 60hz/50hz they need to - optimum
blade speed should be right around 10,000 peripheral feet per minute - much
faster than that and you'll be doing more burning than cutting, and will
probably kill blades pretty quickly.
On reflection, I think your noise problem may be related to your local air -
where do you live? I'm in Mendocino county, and maybe the air here is
thinner and causes less resistance to the blade! Might also explain the
plethora of air-heads that we have around here!! -Philip

------------------------------------------------------------------------
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

------------------------------------------------------------------------
eGroups.com Home:
- Simplifying group communications


Re: Mortising Table

Philip Tamarkin
 

Let's make a list of all the "optional" acccessories that are essential to the efficient operation of the machine!? That's why a saw that lists for around ten grand usually ends up closer to fifteen by the time you're done hanging the "optional accessories" on it!? My current dream configuration involves spending about 3K on an outrigger and crosscut fence (and retrofit 2 meter table, as long as I've got the damn thing apart) - thirty years in cabinetmaking, and never saw a sliding saw without this "option."

Geoff Shepherd wrote:

Thanks, everyone for the comments (thus far!) on the mortising table and
cutters. It is on my "someday" list... sooner or later, that is.

Regarding the carriage for it, I just thought it peculiar that the rolling
carriage was an optional accessory when it seems like one would not want to
do without it. Then again, if I got to the gym like I should, maybe it could
be an option. Hurrrrrg!

..Geoff

------------------------------------------------------------------------
To Post a message, send it to:?? felder-woodworking@...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- Create a poll/survey for your group!
--


Re: Table saw blade noise

Geoff Shepherd
 

Interesting... this saw runs with more noise than even my Shopsmith (in
table saw mode), which was louder than a good contractor's saw due to the
variable speed Reeves drive system. Cutting performance on the BF6-31 has
been satisfactory so far, just very noisy. The other way I've reduced the
noise is by removing the blade entirely, but then I seem to have a problem
with the kerf not forming at all. Not sure what's up with that.

Here in the Seattle area the air is thick like good coffee. Maybe the blades
just get all buzzed up with caffeine or something.

I have considered modifying the clear crown guard with pivoting side guards
to help contain the noise, offer additional protection, and provide a longer
lifting ramp in front to ride up on approaching stock. On the other hand, if
my saw is just running too fast, then that's patching the symptom rather
than finding the cure.

Given my sometimes preoccupation with quiet-running tools, I should probably
go pick up one of those sound-level meters from Radio Shack. Either that or
go completely Neanderthal... :-)

...Geoff

----- Original Message -----
From: Philip Tamarkin
To: felder-woodworking@...
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 7:04 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Table saw blade noise


My BF-5 runs quietly compared to my earlier cabinet saws, even with the 12"
blades. I've got the Felder standard universal and the fancy-schmantzy
"Silent Power" blades - the Silent Power (God, the marketing department must
stay up late thinking of these names!) is probably a tad quieter. Bought a
Tenryu panel blade that I'm using currently, and highly recommend - best
blade I've ever used out of the box - similar volume to the others. If
Felder doesn't modify the drive pulleys for 60hz/50hz they need to - optimum
blade speed should be right around 10,000 peripheral feet per minute - much
faster than that and you'll be doing more burning than cutting, and will
probably kill blades pretty quickly.
On reflection, I think your noise problem may be related to your local air -
where do you live? I'm in Mendocino county, and maybe the air here is
thinner and causes less resistance to the blade! Might also explain the
plethora of air-heads that we have around here!! -Philip


Re: Mortising Table

Geoff Shepherd
 

Thanks, everyone for the comments (thus far!) on the mortising table and
cutters. It is on my "someday" list... sooner or later, that is.

Regarding the carriage for it, I just thought it peculiar that the rolling
carriage was an optional accessory when it seems like one would not want to
do without it. Then again, if I got to the gym like I should, maybe it could
be an option. <lift!> Hurrrrrg! <ooh! ouch!>

..Geoff


Re: Table saw blade noise

Philip Tamarkin
 

My BF-5 runs quietly compared to my earlier cabinet saws, even with the 12" blades.? I've got the Felder standard universal and the fancy-schmantzy "Silent Power" blades - the Silent Power (God, the marketing department must stay up late thinking of these names!) is probably a tad quieter.? Bought a Tenryu panel blade that I'm using currently, and highly recommend - best blade I've ever used out of the box - similar volume to the others.? If Felder doesn't modify the drive pulleys for 60hz/50hz they need to - optimum blade speed should be right around 10,000 peripheral feet per minute - much faster than that and you'll be doing more burning than cutting, and will probably kill blades pretty quickly.

On reflection, I think your noise problem may be related to your local air - where do you live?? I'm in Mendocino county, and maybe the air here is thinner and causes less resistance to the blade!? Might also explain the plethora of air-heads that we have around here!!? -Philip

Geoff Shepherd wrote:

Another question for the group...

It seems to me that the saw on my BF6-31 is two or three times louder than a
typical 10" cabinet saw. Most of the noise is a loud high-pitched wooshing
of air, and both of my 12" blades (one a Felder, the other a Forrest) create
about the same intensity of noise. The higher the blade is raised, the
louder it gets. When it is lowered below the surface of the table, it is
more tolerable, but that doesn't do much for cutting wood. Two other
woodworking friends I have demo'd the machine for have commented, "man,
that's loud" in regards to the table saw. So, this is all subjective, but it
is quite noticeable. I was hoping it was just the Felder blade that was
noisy, but was disappointed to find my new Forrest blade is just as loud.

Is this just the nature of a 12" blade? Could it be that the saw is running
20% faster on 60 Hz power vs. 50 Hz, or is there a different pulley ratio
for US-destined machines to compensate for this?

...Geoff

------------------------------------------------------------------------
To Post a message, send it to:?? felder-woodworking@...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!
--


Re: Mortising Table

Philip Tamarkin
 

...use the mortiser happily with end mills - Reid Supply has a good selection, particularly
extra-long sizes. It isn't any big deal to pull the mortiser off without the cute 'lil
carriage that Felder sells, though I admit that mine lives on the machine unless I have a
substantial amount of jointing to do. REAL men won't have any trouble removing and
replacing the mortiser without the carriage. In my shop, anything on wheels becomes a
catchall for spare tools, beer bottles, etc! -Philip

Richard McComas wrote:

Geoff, I have a AD-41 with the mortising unit that hangs on the side. I have tried
the Felder bits as well as the regular up and down spiral bits like you get from Jesada
and a spiral end mill bit. I haven't used any of the bits for an extended period so I
may change my mind latter but for now I see no difference in the quality of the cut
between any of the bits mentioned. A John R stated the Felder bits are the easiest to
center up but for me I find the Felder bits a littler harder to control the depth of
the cut. They seem to respond quicker than the other bits and tent to cut to deep and
that makes the sideways cutting action little more difficult. This problem may be
just that I need a littler more practice with them. I see no difference between the
carbide spiral bits and spiral end mills bits, they both cut clean mortises and I
believe the end mills bits are a bit more aggressive than carbide spiral bits . The
end mills and carbide spiral bits take more presser on the joy stick and the bits
doesn't cut as fast but gives me more control. Of course the cost of the end mills
make them attractive but I don't know what their longevity is compared to the others.
One other thing in favor of the Felder bits is the length, the are quite bit longer
than the others. Rich

Geoff Shepherd wrote:

Since my used BF6-31 didn't come with the mortising table, I'm sure I will
eventually get one on order. I see there are at least two kinds of mortising
bits: "precision bits", and well, I guess that would make the other kind
"sloppy bits." :-) What about using spiral end mills? I'm just curious what
other folks are using and why.

Does anyone use the mortising table without the optional carriage?

Thanks for your comments.
..Geoff

------------------------------------------------------------------------
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...

To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

------------------------------------------------------------------------

eGroups.com home:
- Simplifying group communications
------------------------------------------------------------------------
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

------------------------------------------------------------------------

eGroups.com home:
- Simplifying group communications


Table saw blade noise

Geoff Shepherd
 

Another question for the group...

It seems to me that the saw on my BF6-31 is two or three times louder than a
typical 10" cabinet saw. Most of the noise is a loud high-pitched wooshing
of air, and both of my 12" blades (one a Felder, the other a Forrest) create
about the same intensity of noise. The higher the blade is raised, the
louder it gets. When it is lowered below the surface of the table, it is
more tolerable, but that doesn't do much for cutting wood. Two other
woodworking friends I have demo'd the machine for have commented, "man,
that's loud" in regards to the table saw. So, this is all subjective, but it
is quite noticeable. I was hoping it was just the Felder blade that was
noisy, but was disappointed to find my new Forrest blade is just as loud.

Is this just the nature of a 12" blade? Could it be that the saw is running
20% faster on 60 Hz power vs. 50 Hz, or is there a different pulley ratio
for US-destined machines to compensate for this?

...Geoff


Re: Mortising Table

Richard McComas
 

Geoff, I have a AD-41 with the mortising unit that hangs on the side. I have tried
the Felder bits as well as the regular up and down spiral bits like you get from Jesada
and a spiral end mill bit. I haven't used any of the bits for an extended period so I
may change my mind latter but for now I see no difference in the quality of the cut
between any of the bits mentioned. A John R stated the Felder bits are the easiest to
center up but for me I find the Felder bits a littler harder to control the depth of
the cut. They seem to respond quicker than the other bits and tent to cut to deep and
that makes the sideways cutting action little more difficult. This problem may be
just that I need a littler more practice with them. I see no difference between the
carbide spiral bits and spiral end mills bits, they both cut clean mortises and I
believe the end mills bits are a bit more aggressive than carbide spiral bits . The
end mills and carbide spiral bits take more presser on the joy stick and the bits
doesn't cut as fast but gives me more control. Of course the cost of the end mills
make them attractive but I don't know what their longevity is compared to the others.
One other thing in favor of the Felder bits is the length, the are quite bit longer
than the others. Rich

Geoff Shepherd wrote:

Since my used BF6-31 didn't come with the mortising table, I'm sure I will
eventually get one on order. I see there are at least two kinds of mortising
bits: "precision bits", and well, I guess that would make the other kind
"sloppy bits." :-) What about using spiral end mills? I'm just curious what
other folks are using and why.

Does anyone use the mortising table without the optional carriage?

Thanks for your comments.
..Geoff

------------------------------------------------------------------------
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...

To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

------------------------------------------------------------------------

eGroups.com home:
- Simplifying group communications


Re: Mortising Table

dolsid
 

I have used bits I have for making mortises with a plunging router.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Shepherd" <geoff@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 1:23 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Mortising Table


Since my used BF6-31 didn't come with the mortising table, I'm sure I will
eventually get one on order. I see there are at least two kinds of
mortising
bits: "precision bits", and well, I guess that would make the other kind
"sloppy bits." :-) What about using spiral end mills? I'm just curious
what
other folks are using and why.

Does anyone use the mortising table without the optional carriage?

Thanks for your comments.
..Geoff



------------------------------------------------------------------------
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

------------------------------------------------------------------------

eGroups.com home:
- Simplifying group communications





Re: Mortising Table

John Renzetti
 

Geoff, I knew I should have sent out tests after I wrote those
newsletters, just to check and see if you guys were reading them. :)
I've used both the Felder HSS precision bits and the Clico bits.
With the Clico's you can plunge deeper on the first cut, but I found
the Felders cut better and were much easier to center up.The difference
in speed was negligible. The Felders gave a cleaner cut. The Felder
bits were also cheaper than the Clico's which are carried by Garrett
Wade, I got a couple of them from a friend in the UK and they are much
cheaper there. There is no reason why you couldn't use end mills. From
what I understand use the double fluted ones. You also use HSS spirals
from Onstrud.
As far as using the mortising unit without the carriage,unless you
are into weight lifting and body building get the transporter. The
mortiser must weigh about 120lbs. The transporter makes things much
easier.

Talk to you later,
John Renzetti
Chadds Ford, PA



geoff shepherd" <geof-@...> wrote:
original article:
=209
Since my used BF6-31 didn't come with the mortising table, I'm sure I
will
eventually get one on order. I see there are at least two kinds of
mortising
bits: "precision bits", and well, I guess that would make the other
kind
"sloppy bits." :-) What about using spiral end mills? I'm just
curious what
other folks are using and why.

Does anyone use the mortising table without the optional carriage?

Thanks for your comments.
..Geoff


Mortising Table

Geoff Shepherd
 

Since my used BF6-31 didn't come with the mortising table, I'm sure I will
eventually get one on order. I see there are at least two kinds of mortising
bits: "precision bits", and well, I guess that would make the other kind
"sloppy bits." :-) What about using spiral end mills? I'm just curious what
other folks are using and why.

Does anyone use the mortising table without the optional carriage?

Thanks for your comments.
..Geoff


Re: Okay, I'm impressed

John Hartshorne
 

Hi Eric,

No question those were great ribs, Hope to see you during my next trip
through
Hows the employment market did you find something . Are you building
anything? Hows the shop coming along?
Talk to you soon,
JH
erik friis <efrii-@...> wrote:
original article:
=205
Hi Joe,

First of all, congratulations on your new Felder -- I didn't get a
chance to tell you
on Badger Pond. Re support on Saturdays and Sundays, just call JH at
home...collect
;-)
Hi JH. Coming back for ribs soon?

Regards, Erik


Re: BF6-31

Mark Rupersburg
 

?

Wolfgang;

The machine I was referring to is listed below with a description copied from your web page.? The previous owner, Jim Sekely, wrote me that it is in excellent condition.? Is it available?

Regards,

Mark
?

Geiger wrote:

Mark,

The machine listed for $5,500.00 on our webside is a BU8FK41 (16"
combination machine with 1 motor only) build in 1983.


Modell
???????????????????????????????????????????? Specification
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? Location
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? Price
??????????? BF6-31

?????? Woodworking System

????????? 78-08/544-92

?????????? Year 1992
???????????????????????????? 3 motors 1x220V, 3HP

???????????????????????????? 12" Jointer/Planer, 4 knife cutterblock

???????????????????????????? 1 1/4" tilting shaper

???????????????????????????? 12" titling saw, 68" sliding table with 1100 crosscut fence

???????????????????????????? mortiser, wheel kit and 2 cast iron table extensions, 1 ALU
???????????????????????????? table extension with S+F coupling
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? FOB West Sacramento, CA

???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? Owner Jim Sekely

???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? jimsekely@...
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? $5,500.00
?

?

----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Rupersburg
To:
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2000 11:53 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] BF6-31

>
>
> Wolfgang;
>
> Please send the information on the used BF6-31 listed on your updated
website to Mac
> Campshire.? I belive the price is $5,500.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mark Rupersburg
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To Post a message, send it to:?? felder-woodworking@...
> To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> eGroups.com home:
> - Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------------------------------------------------
To Post a message, send it to:?? felder-woodworking@...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- Create a poll/survey for your group!
--


Felder service, the Best

 

Hello All,

Thought it was past time for me to chime in here with a few cents.
First
I'd like to thank John Renzetti for all the help he gave me in
configuring my new KF-7 last year. We all know what a head-wrecker that
can be for first time Felder customers.
I'd also like to thank Geoff for starting up this forum for us,
great idea.
The information posted here is very helpful and appreciated.
On Felder service, it's second to none. Sure, it's one thing to work
some weekends, but going beyond the call of duty is also the norm for
Felder service on weekdays, too. Re, last week John Hartshorne didn't
leave my home/shop
till after 7PM, and he still had at least a 1 1/2hr drive back to
Sacramento.
That's pretty late to get to sit down to dinner:( So, even though JH
may not be out of state on a service/business trip, he is still putting
some very long hours right in his own "backyard".
Thanks for your extrodinary efforts JH, we appreciate you.

Safe Woodworking to All, John Taylor