Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
Same as Jonathan Samways, I use it to cut down long stock. It lives on a furniture dolly behind the slider.
Similarly, where I used to use the track saw all the time, I¡¯ve only used it twice in the past year since owning a slider.
Steve
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Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
The slider doesn¡¯t fit in the back of the truck for site moulding installation.? I love my Kapex, it¡¯s got some serious mileage on it but I know I can still rely on it for installs.?
On Wed, Jan 31, 2024 at 6:39?AM Bill Hope < hope.we@...> wrote: I use mine for compound cuts on awkward stock like quarter rounds.
--
-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer
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Re: Felder Bf6-31 compact. Motor brake gone pop
Alex, Larger one is the start cap and the symptoms match. So hoping all will work once you replace it ?
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On Jan 31, 2024, at 7:08?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote: ?
Thanks Imran, there is no visible evidence on the capacitors. I replaced the smaller one a while back which exploded and caught fire. I bought replacements for both but only replaced the defective one. I¡¯ll now replace the larger one and hope it works. Many
thanks for your help.?
Best regards?
Alex
On 30 Jan 2024, at 17:49, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Alex,
Thanks for the details. I hope the cap replacement fixes your issue. Hopefully you have replacement for both of them. If not look for one with a popped end. If no visual evidence, I would replace CA first as that is the start capacitor. It should be the
larger in value, assuming they are not same. If they are same value, you will need to beep their connections relative to the wiring diagram to find out which is CA and CB. Would be nice if they are labeled. Good luck.
On Jan 30, 2024, at 12:10?PM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
Thanks Imran, it¡¯s difficult to describe the symptoms as initially there was a grunting straining ?sound that seemed like a braking hum and it tripped the rcd. I turned it on again, the saw started, then the stop switch failed to operate instantly,
then when it did the motor stopped quite violently but the braking didn¡¯t switch itself off, it tripped the rcd. Now none of the motors run, I just get a laboured hum. I¡¯ll get the capacitor replaced and see what happens. Many thanks
Alex
On 30 Jan 2024, at 15:13, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Alex,
Sure, from your original post, I thought you were having braking issue, i.e. RCD trip at turn off during braking. But if the motors don¡¯t run then replacing caps should help. Once motors are running and the RCD trips during braking we can look into it.
On Jan 30, 2024, at 10:02?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
Hi Imran,?
I have another couple of diagrams which maybe could help. I didn¡¯t send them as didn¡¯t want to complicate. ?The machine was manufactured in 1999. The motors do not run, just lots of hum before the rcd trips. I¡¯m just going to fit the new capacitor
. Cheers?
Alex
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
On 30 Jan 2024, at 14:51, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Hi Alex,
Correct, this schematic is for 2KW but for one w/o brake function. If the motors are starting up and running normally then capacitors are good.
My schematic has a date (bottom left) 15.09.1994. I cannot read the date on your schematic but I assume it is older because your machine does not show the low voltage transformer. So all switches are 220VAC vs ~24VAC in newer machines including the schematic
I have dated 1994.
If you machine has/had braking function then the schematic is not correct. I was fine for capacitors purpose. You should request a sch for your machine with brake function.
On Jan 30, 2024, at 9:24?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
?
Hi Imran,?
I¡¯ve managed to find the big book, but it¡¯s only a spare parts book. However a capacitor replacement a while back (just one replaced) instigated a request for the wiring diagram from felder for this 2kw machine : ?I will replace the other capacitor
which I have to see if that rectifies the problem when I get time and see where we go from there.?
Thanks?
Alex
<image1.jpeg>
On 28 Jan 2024, at 14:46, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? No Worries Alex. Is your machine ~5KW? If so, I see Y-D start which adds more relays; K4 is one of them. There is no K4 in the first schematic I shared which was for a 2KW machine.
Do you have the big book of your machine? The schematics and other important info is in there. Here are couple of shots to show you what is in the book that I have.
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>
If you do not have the machine book with wiring diagram info as shown above, I suggest you contact Felder and get a copy. They may be able to guide you as well as to the location of the relays.
The pics you shared are not very sharp. Appears there is at least one more relay by the selector switch. Still it would be difficult to guide you because I do not know where these are located and for that matter if my schematic matches your machine in
the first place.
Once you have the wiring diagram and you poke around a bit more to try to locate components, I can try to help.
Imran Malik
On Jan 28, 2024, at 4:48?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
? Hi Imran,?
Sorry for the late response, just found your message in my junk ! Thanks for the wiring diagram , most useful as I seem to have misplaced mine. Looking on the circuit board, I could only find K1 and K4 and the other connecting block visible from the top
where the capacitors feed into. There is nothing on the circuit board where the K2 and K3 markings are. Do you know if the circuit board is serviceable or do I replace the whole unit ??
Thanks?
Alex
On 23 Jan 2024, at 23:50, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Alex,
Yes, a wiring diagram. Sharing what I have but you should have a copy of yours. Now a days, it is placed in a pouch on the inside face of the electrical cabinet cover but not sure what they did back then.
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
On Jan 23, 2024, at 5:59?PM, alexmoore4@... wrote:
?Hello Imran,
thanks for your kind response. ?I¡¯ll have a look for those components you mention tomorrow. I¡¯m not an electrician, although my brother is and if I can make it easier for him, all the better. I¡¯m guessing a schematic is a wiring diagram ?
Many thanks?
Alex
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Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
The slider eliminated my miter saw, track saw, and MFT (sold this, and built a better version). I use an old 6¡± circular saw for cross-cutting very long rough boards. Having a small shop, the slider has earned its footprint.
On Wednesday, January 31, 2024, 00:14, PK <pk@...> wrote:
A new poll has been created:
Has anyone given up the "compound slider" setup after using your slider?
1. Yup - She is gone, I took back the space and keep it just in case
2. Yup - took it down and sold it
3. No way - are you crazy? It is way too easy.
4. No way - It is way too hard to do on my slider.
5. I have been thinking about it.
Click Here To Vote
Do not reply to this message to vote in the poll. You can vote in polls only through the group's website.
--
Mike D.
Annapolis, MD
AD951; K700S; N4400
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Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
8. Kept it, use it for long pieces. Built a shroud for dust collection. Shroud necessitated addition of lights. So it does not make a mess as it used to. It is easier to get to as it is in line with my shop entrance so I do not need to swing a 10¡¯ or 12¡¯ stick some times limp stick. On the other hand, not a day goes by that I don¡¯t think of the wall space that it is consuming.
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On Jan 31, 2024, at 2:38?AM, jontathan samways <jonathansamways@...> wrote: ? 7. Kept it for cutting long lengths in half.
Kindest regards
Jonathan Samways
?6.? Kept it just for job-site work - it lives in the truck.
David Best - via mobile phone? On Jan 30, 2024, at 10:02?PM, PK <pk@...> wrote:
?
A poll has been updated:
Has anyone given up the "sliding compound miter saw" setup after using your slider?
1. Yup - She is gone, I took back the space and keep it just in case
2. Yup - took it down and sold it
3. No way - are you crazy? It is way too easy.
4. No way - It is way too hard to do on my slider.
5. I have been thinking about it.
Click Here To Vote
Do not reply to this message to vote in the poll. You can vote in polls only through the group's website.
|
Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
How else do you cut a bunch of 2x10¡¯s? SCMS is indepensible for rough work.?
Inside the shop I never use one-if I have to cut long stuff I do to my radial arm saw (I know, I know, the horror).? ?
On Wed, Jan 31, 2024 at 6:39?AM Bill Hope < hope.we@...> wrote: I use mine for compound cuts on awkward stock like quarter rounds.
--
-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer
|
Re: Felder Bf6-31 compact. Motor brake gone pop
Thanks Imran, there is no visible evidence on the capacitors. I replaced the smaller one a while back which exploded and caught fire. I bought replacements for both but only replaced the defective one. I¡¯ll now replace the larger one and hope it works. Many
thanks for your help.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 30 Jan 2024, at 17:49, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Alex,
Thanks for the details. I hope the cap replacement fixes your issue. Hopefully you have replacement for both of them. If not look for one with a popped end. If no visual evidence, I would replace CA first as that is the start capacitor. It should be the
larger in value, assuming they are not same. If they are same value, you will need to beep their connections relative to the wiring diagram to find out which is CA and CB. Would be nice if they are labeled. Good luck.
On Jan 30, 2024, at 12:10?PM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
Thanks Imran, it¡¯s difficult to describe the symptoms as initially there was a grunting straining ?sound that seemed like a braking hum and it tripped the rcd. I turned it on again, the saw started, then the stop switch failed to operate instantly,
then when it did the motor stopped quite violently but the braking didn¡¯t switch itself off, it tripped the rcd. Now none of the motors run, I just get a laboured hum. I¡¯ll get the capacitor replaced and see what happens. Many thanks
Alex
On 30 Jan 2024, at 15:13, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Alex,
Sure, from your original post, I thought you were having braking issue, i.e. RCD trip at turn off during braking. But if the motors don¡¯t run then replacing caps should help. Once motors are running and the RCD trips during braking we can look into it.
On Jan 30, 2024, at 10:02?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
Hi Imran,?
I have another couple of diagrams which maybe could help. I didn¡¯t send them as didn¡¯t want to complicate. ?The machine was manufactured in 1999. The motors do not run, just lots of hum before the rcd trips. I¡¯m just going to fit the new capacitor
. Cheers?
Alex
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
On 30 Jan 2024, at 14:51, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Hi Alex,
Correct, this schematic is for 2KW but for one w/o brake function. If the motors are starting up and running normally then capacitors are good.
My schematic has a date (bottom left) 15.09.1994. I cannot read the date on your schematic but I assume it is older because your machine does not show the low voltage transformer. So all switches are 220VAC vs ~24VAC in newer machines including the schematic
I have dated 1994.
If you machine has/had braking function then the schematic is not correct. I was fine for capacitors purpose. You should request a sch for your machine with brake function.
On Jan 30, 2024, at 9:24?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
?
?
Hi Imran,?
I¡¯ve managed to find the big book, but it¡¯s only a spare parts book. However a capacitor replacement a while back (just one replaced) instigated a request for the wiring diagram from felder for this 2kw machine : ?I will replace the other capacitor
which I have to see if that rectifies the problem when I get time and see where we go from there.?
Thanks?
Alex
<image1.jpeg>
On 28 Jan 2024, at 14:46, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? No Worries Alex. Is your machine ~5KW? If so, I see Y-D start which adds more relays; K4 is one of them. There is no K4 in the first schematic I shared which was for a 2KW machine.
Do you have the big book of your machine? The schematics and other important info is in there. Here are couple of shots to show you what is in the book that I have.
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>
If you do not have the machine book with wiring diagram info as shown above, I suggest you contact Felder and get a copy. They may be able to guide you as well as to the location of the relays.
The pics you shared are not very sharp. Appears there is at least one more relay by the selector switch. Still it would be difficult to guide you because I do not know where these are located and for that matter if my schematic matches your machine in
the first place.
Once you have the wiring diagram and you poke around a bit more to try to locate components, I can try to help.
Imran Malik
On Jan 28, 2024, at 4:48?AM, alex moore <alexmoore4@...> wrote:
? Hi Imran,?
Sorry for the late response, just found your message in my junk ! Thanks for the wiring diagram , most useful as I seem to have misplaced mine. Looking on the circuit board, I could only find K1 and K4 and the other connecting block visible from the top
where the capacitors feed into. There is nothing on the circuit board where the K2 and K3 markings are. Do you know if the circuit board is serviceable or do I replace the whole unit ??
Thanks?
Alex
On 23 Jan 2024, at 23:50, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Alex,
Yes, a wiring diagram. Sharing what I have but you should have a copy of yours. Now a days, it is placed in a pouch on the inside face of the electrical cabinet cover but not sure what they did back then.
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
On Jan 23, 2024, at 5:59?PM, alexmoore4@... wrote:
?Hello Imran,
thanks for your kind response. ?I¡¯ll have a look for those components you mention tomorrow. I¡¯m not an electrician, although my brother is and if I can make it easier for him, all the better. I¡¯m guessing a schematic is a wiring diagram ?
Many thanks?
Alex
|
Re: Sheet good recommendations
Anyone have recommendations on where to find HDF for cabinet doors and face frames. I intend to do CNC doors and frames that will eventually be painted.
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Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
I use mine for compound cuts on awkward stock like quarter rounds.
--
-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer
|
Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
Paul, after getting the MiterX double miter for the slider I hardly use the Omga miter saw. I have a Kapex but never use it for shop work, it¡¯s not dependably accurate. It needs to go.
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Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
7. Kept it for cutting long lengths in half.
Kindest regards
Jonathan Samways
?6.? Kept it just for job-site work - it lives in the truck.
David Best - via mobile phone? On Jan 30, 2024, at 10:02?PM, PK <pk@...> wrote:
?
A poll has been updated:
Has anyone given up the "sliding compound miter saw" setup after using your slider?
1. Yup - She is gone, I took back the space and keep it just in case
2. Yup - took it down and sold it
3. No way - are you crazy? It is way too easy.
4. No way - It is way too hard to do on my slider.
5. I have been thinking about it.
Click Here To Vote
Do not reply to this message to vote in the poll. You can vote in polls only through the group's website.
|
Re: Are Miter saws relevant with a great slider?
#poll-notice
? 6. ?Kept it just for job-site work - it lives in the truck.
David Best - via mobile phone?
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Show quoted text
On Jan 30, 2024, at 10:02?PM, PK <pk@...> wrote:
?
A poll has been updated:
Has anyone given up the "sliding compound miter saw" setup after using your slider?
1. Yup - She is gone, I took back the space and keep it just in case
2. Yup - took it down and sold it
3. No way - are you crazy? It is way too easy.
4. No way - It is way too hard to do on my slider.
5. I have been thinking about it.
Click Here To Vote
Do not reply to this message to vote in the poll. You can vote in polls only through the group's website.
|
Has anyone given up the "sliding compound miter saw" setup after using your slider?
|
I just added the cheap DRO to my saw. It is surprisingly handy. The 3D printed holders are pretty nifty, but I went the poor man¡¯s route with some scraps of cherry and a couple of magnets. I turned a little flanged plug to use in registering the fence, but I think I¡¯ll make one with a larger flange. The small flange lets the plug tip just a tad when the fence presses against it. The hardest part of the install was making a bracket to hold the read head in place. A little scrap of wood and a left-over bit of aluminum did the trick. Most guys drill and tap the knuckle to mount the bracket, but I just used a bit of adhesive mounting tape.   -- John Hinman Boise ID K700S and A941
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Which model is this? ?K700, K740, KF700, KF740, K940?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jan 30, 2024, at 3:19?PM, netanel.belgazal@... wrote:
I just pulled the trigger, machine is expected to be manufactured in March and hopefully in the US by end of may I am getting the following configuration: ?
3 x 230V 7.5HP (5.5kW) motor for main blade
Industrial motor driven scoring blade
Dado prepped
126" X-roll sliding table with remote start/stop on end of slider
49" rip capacity with fine adjustment.
1500 outrigger
102" crosscut fence with flip stop
Overhead saw guard. DRO on rip fence ?
For the accessories I went with: Transport and mounting unit Side hand lever Digial readout for blade height ?
?
I checked how much it will be to add a DRO on the rip fence (to use as a stop) and Felder charge ~$900 I saw some people retrofit the original one and added the Fima DRO, someone tried it? Is it worth or?
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Yeah, doing it on the slider side it really nice.
I currently have the K3 and it is PITA to move to the other side of the slide (or hover a spinning blade) to do operations on the main body of the saw.
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The instructions to add FIAMA DRO on the rip fence are in Files. You will need to print a 3D holder. A model should be available for download if you like the holder shown in the files section. You will need to fashion a simple bracket and drill and tap holes in the fence housing to mount it. This will likely run you $550 unless Brian Lamb can get you the F8P for less.
I imagine going with Felder for $900 is the right call. I would make sure that you get automatic DRO update with hi/lo fence position? If not automatic, you should at least be able to go back and forth with push of a button? This is how it works on FIAMA.
I assume Felder provides a mechanism for recalibrating the DRO. This is needed every time the fence housing is rotated away. I don¡¯t have the Felder unit so this is what I am told and that is how FIAMA unit works. I use a simple bolt for this, others have machined beautiful plugs and yet others are happy using a piece of wood. If Felder does not provide a mechanism then you will need to come up with one, unless you want to use the blade ?
The 3rd option is the cheaper Chinese DRO. It is $70 vs $450. It eats batteries (expect 4-6 months) and I have not found one that will adjust for hi/lo positions with push of a button.
Lastly, one may not realize that most often I am setting the fence for a short distance. With DRO, I can do it without walking around the slider. Like most things, the decision is personal. Since it is not a necessary device, only you can decide which option is worthwhile to you.
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On Jan 30, 2024, at 6:19?PM, netanel.belgazal@... wrote: ? I just pulled the trigger, machine is expected to be manufactured in March and hopefully in the US by end of may
I am getting the following configuration:
?
3 x 230V 7.5HP (5.5kW) motor for main blade
Industrial motor driven scoring blade
Dado prepped
126" X-roll sliding table with remote start/stop on end of slider
49" rip capacity with fine adjustment.
1500 outrigger
102" crosscut fence with flip stop
Overhead saw guard.
DRO on rip fence
?
For the accessories I went with:
Transport and mounting unit
Side hand lever
Digial readout for blade height
?
?
I checked how much it will be to add a DRO on the rip fence (to use as a stop) and Felder charge ~$900
I saw some people retrofit the original one and added the Fima DRO, someone tried it?
Is it worth or?
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Re: Sheet good recommendations
Lucky, thanks for the response. Regarding the Wood Review article I was just suggesting a standard magazine article. I know they have plenty of good topics, but the subject of built-in and library construction struck me is being really interesting and I don¡¯t believe they have done anything on this in the past.
Regarding plywood supplies, I¡¯ve just checked and it seems that Sharp Plywood have been reincarnated as Sharp Panels. I think they do custom veneer of plywood and they would be worth a look. Also, there is a guy called Steve at Nerang with a company called BGB plywood . he sells relatively inexpensive ¡°marine¡± plywood. I bought a bundle of a couple of years ago for non-critical work such as planter boxes, a pool pump cover and a tool cabinet I¡¯m planning on building. There are some pluses and minuses with this plywood. On the downside, although it is called Marine plywood I would never have it anywhere near a boat. it has a gaboon veneer on the outside. Many of the sheets that I bought, had a defect, consisting of faint, dark lines, running perpendicular to the grain. I was planning on, finishing many of them with a solid acrylic, so this didn¡¯t concern me, and I thought that just a few passes with the sandpaper would remove them. With every sheet of marine plywood I have ever used in the past the outer layer is not a wafer thin veneer, but an actual ply of reasonable thickness. With the BGB plywood, it is thin veneer, which you can sand straight through very easily.
On the plus side however, it seems to have very good thickness consistency and a very fair flat surface. Judging by the end grain, it doesn¡¯t have too many voids. It¡¯s a couple of years since I bought the bundle I have, it¡¯s been stored in a carport, partially exposed, and is showing no signs of any delamination warping, etc.
I had a significant victory recently with my first attempt at shop sawing wide veneers(thanks to Darren Oates). I am now planning on doing my own veneers for the aforementioned tool cabinet, and I think BGB plywood should be okay for this purpose. if you have some non-critical tasks coming up, it¡¯s probably worth buying a couple of sheets and doing your own assessment.
Murray
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I just pulled the trigger, machine is expected to be manufactured in March and hopefully in the US by end of may
I am getting the following configuration:
?
3 x 230V 7.5HP (5.5kW) motor for main blade
Industrial motor driven scoring blade
Dado prepped
126" X-roll sliding table with remote start/stop on end of slider
49" rip capacity with fine adjustment.
1500 outrigger
102" crosscut fence with flip stop
Overhead saw guard.
DRO on rip fence
?
For the accessories I went with:
Transport and mounting unit
Side hand lever
Digial readout for blade height
?
?
I checked how much it will be to add a DRO on the rip fence (to use as a stop) and Felder charge ~$900
I saw some people retrofit the original one and added the Fima DRO, someone tried it?
Is it worth or?
|
imran
Bill Hope
David P. Best
PK