Re: How to Remove Wire from Brake Board Connector
Thanks Murray. I saw my earlier post with many typos, so it may not be clear that I got it done. Exactly like you explained. Thin shaft flat head worked better for me as the slightly thicker was difficult to engage. As you said the feeling of engagement is like it is going between two pressure loaded jaws. Once you have engagement lift handle away from the wire hole and the copper part (in my pic) goes down. Wire is held between silver upper and copper lower tabs.
Imran
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On Jan 28, 2021, at 5:31 PM, murrayau1 <murraywp@...> wrote: ?Imran, I¡¯ve just been through exactly this issue replacing the starting capacitors. I also didn¡¯t want to force anything so I contacted the Felder Service tech who put me straight. You get a very small flat screwdriver poke it in the hole above to engage a lug ?which is in there, and lever it to loosen the wire then pull it out, I think the lever direction is up up. You¡¯ll need to doublecheck that it is the hole above and not below (I¡¯ve only done this once), the best advice the felder Tech gave me was to experiment with a vacant hole.
hope this helps, Murray
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Imran,
Mac has posted a good method for calibrating the work table of the FD250 to the trajectory of the cutting bit.
MY FD250 did not work well until I calibrated it. ?When out of calibration there is a lot of friction along the sides of the bit resulting in heat and probably deflection resulting in bad mortises that would not glue well. ?Too much heat contributes to burnishing of the wood which makes for a poor glue surface.
Joe
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Joe,
Some good ideas on indexing. I have saved your post and will look at it after I get my brake working on K975.
Imran On Jan 28, 2021, at 4:35 PM, bacchus6015 via < joeinno@...> wrote: ? I had an FD250 and liked it and learned to use it for mortising and dowel boring to make doors and windows.
I planned to make videos to share what I learned but ran out of time when liquidating the shop last summer.
I modified it in a few ways. ?I added a bracket to shift the control handle so it would not hit the clamp riser on the right hand side of the work table. ?I added a DRO for height to make double rows of dowel repeatable for window and door sash.?
I also added pneumatic clamps that I copied from the clamps that Ultimate Joe had on his Koehle mortiser. ? The pneumatic clamps made everything easier and more precise. ?
I had the rack and pinion mortising feature and it made dowel boring possible and made side to side mortising with birds beak bits easier.
I also had the index bars and I figured out how to use them to index mirror image parts for doors and windows.?
The way I indexed mirror image pieces was to use the 90 degree fence a couple of stops on the back side of the work table and a scrap of wood that could be bored all the way through when indexed to the 90 degree stop and then move the 90 degree stop to the opposite side of the worktable and reference the flip side of the scrap to the cutting bit. ?This allows you to index dowel holes to the edge or end of a workpiece exactly the same distance from the fence. ?I may have some photos if anyone is interested.
Another way to index parts is to use a wooden fence in place of the small metal one on the front edge of the worktable. ?You can set the wooden fence just below the height of the cutter and mark locations on the top edge of the fence. ?The thumbscrews that held the metal fence on my FD250 were very long and easily accommodated 6mm plywood for a fence.
I found the FD250 to provide a lot of bang for the buck. ?The alternatives that were better cost between $14k and $30k depending on options. ?The Hoffmann (HR150?) like the one Ultimate Joe Calhoon has is one option and the Stegherr FD Junior is another.?
I also had custom boring bits made that were .1mm oversize for the dowels I was using. ?I bought them from Greg at Rangate, they had nice thick carbide and worked well in side grain and end grain. ?
Joe in New Orleans
Hi David,
I have a FD250. I bought it used and it did not have the morticing option. IMHO, this option is needed to make slotting an enjoyable experience. It adds a rack & pinion (terminology may be off but I hope it gets the idea across) and a separate lever. The joy stick is okay but with this lever fwd motion is essentially fixed while you sweep horizontally. With joystick, if used regularly, one may develop sufficient muscle memory but that is not the case with me. Mortising option also adds a bell on the business end so that a hollow chisel can be used. I do not have any chisels so no experience there.
This is not a production machine. The process is slow if you are slot mortising. The physical position to do the mortising can be difficult for some as you stand in the rear and lean a bit fwd to see what is going on. In reality, with stops, in both directions, one should not have to do so, but I think it is natural response.
Where the machine is lacking is a way to easily index work. Maybe someone has figured something out and we all can benefit from it.
I will use the example of building a door with floating tenons. You can certainly, repeat the setting for stiles on multiple pieces via the stop on the rod, unless you door is too tall ?. But now there is no easy way to register the mortice on the mating rails. An indicator for center line of mortice can help and I may add that to my machine. Not sure if this issue is same for multirouter.
Multirouter is much more liked by some very experienced folks here, so I will certainly check it out. I am not sure, if FD250 has any advantage over multirouter, other than perhaps it can do deeper mortice/boring. You can bore holes with constant distance via the doweling attachment as well.
Hope this helps.
Imran
|
Re: How to Remove Wire from Brake Board Connector
Imran, I¡¯ve just been through exactly this issue replacing the starting capacitors. I also didn¡¯t want to force anything so I contacted the Felder Service tech who put me straight. You get a very small flat screwdriver poke it in the hole above to engage a lug ?which is in there, and lever it to loosen the wire then pull it out, I think the lever direction is up up. You¡¯ll need to doublecheck that it is the hole above and not below (I¡¯ve only done this once), the best advice the felder Tech gave me was to experiment with a vacant hole.
hope this helps, Murray
|
Joe,
Some good ideas on indexing. I have saved your post and will look at it after I get my brake working on K975.
Imran
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On Jan 28, 2021, at 4:35 PM, bacchus6015 via groups.io <joeinno@...> wrote: ? I had an FD250 and liked it and learned to use it for mortising and dowel boring to make doors and windows.
I planned to make videos to share what I learned but ran out of time when liquidating the shop last summer.
I modified it in a few ways. ?I added a bracket to shift the control handle so it would not hit the clamp riser on the right hand side of the work table. ?I added a DRO for height to make double rows of dowel repeatable for window and door sash.?
I also added pneumatic clamps that I copied from the clamps that Ultimate Joe had on his Koehle mortiser. ? The pneumatic clamps made everything easier and more precise. ?
I had the rack and pinion mortising feature and it made dowel boring possible and made side to side mortising with birds beak bits easier.
I also had the index bars and I figured out how to use them to index mirror image parts for doors and windows.?
The way I indexed mirror image pieces was to use the 90 degree fence a couple of stops on the back side of the work table and a scrap of wood that could be bored all the way through when indexed to the 90 degree stop and then move the 90 degree stop to the opposite side of the worktable and reference the flip side of the scrap to the cutting bit. ?This allows you to index dowel holes to the edge or end of a workpiece exactly the same distance from the fence. ?I may have some photos if anyone is interested.
Another way to index parts is to use a wooden fence in place of the small metal one on the front edge of the worktable. ?You can set the wooden fence just below the height of the cutter and mark locations on the top edge of the fence. ?The thumbscrews that held the metal fence on my FD250 were very long and easily accommodated 6mm plywood for a fence.
I found the FD250 to provide a lot of bang for the buck. ?The alternatives that were better cost between $14k and $30k depending on options. ?The Hoffmann (HR150?) like the one Ultimate Joe Calhoon has is one option and the Stegherr FD Junior is another.?
I also had custom boring bits made that were .1mm oversize for the dowels I was using. ?I bought them from Greg at Rangate, they had nice thick carbide and worked well in side grain and end grain. ?
Joe in New Orleans
Hi David,
I have a FD250. I bought it used and it did not have the morticing option. IMHO, this option is needed to make slotting an enjoyable experience. It adds a rack & pinion (terminology may be off but I hope it gets the idea across) and a separate lever. The joy stick is okay but with this lever fwd motion is essentially fixed while you sweep horizontally. With joystick, if used regularly, one may develop sufficient muscle memory but that is not the case with me. Mortising option also adds a bell on the business end so that a hollow chisel can be used. I do not have any chisels so no experience there.
This is not a production machine. The process is slow if you are slot mortising. The physical position to do the mortising can be difficult for some as you stand in the rear and lean a bit fwd to see what is going on. In reality, with stops, in both directions, one should not have to do so, but I think it is natural response.
Where the machine is lacking is a way to easily index work. Maybe someone has figured something out and we all can benefit from it.
I will use the example of building a door with floating tenons. You can certainly, repeat the setting for stiles on multiple pieces via the stop on the rod, unless you door is too tall ?. But now there is no easy way to register the mortice on the mating rails. An indicator for center line of mortice can help and I may add that to my machine. Not sure if this issue is same for multirouter.
Multirouter is much more liked by some very experienced folks here, so I will certainly check it out. I am not sure, if FD250 has any advantage over multirouter, other than perhaps it can do deeper mortice/boring. You can bore holes with constant distance via the doweling attachment as well.
Hope this helps.
Imran
|
David
I gave it a strong think but ended up preordering the multi router that woodpecker is going to sell. ?I use a dedicated floor hollow chisel unit (powermatic) for timber size jobs but wanted something capable for furniture. ?Btw, I currently have a 22¡± powermatic planer and 8¡± jointer separately but am likely to move to a combo unit both to save floor space but as well to avoid a 2k upgrade of my planer to a helical head (so it was a timely decision to consider felder¡¯s option).
Mike
|
I had an FD250 and liked it and learned to use it for mortising and dowel boring to make doors and windows.
I planned to make videos to share what I learned but ran out of time when liquidating the shop last summer.
I modified it in a few ways. ?I added a bracket to shift the control handle so it would not hit the clamp riser on the right hand side of the work table. ?I added a DRO for height to make double rows of dowel repeatable for window and door sash.?
I also added pneumatic clamps that I copied from the clamps that Ultimate Joe had on his Koehle mortiser. ? The pneumatic clamps made everything easier and more precise. ?
I had the rack and pinion mortising feature and it made dowel boring possible and made side to side mortising with birds beak bits easier.
I also had the index bars and I figured out how to use them to index mirror image parts for doors and windows.?
The way I indexed mirror image pieces was to use the 90 degree fence a couple of stops on the back side of the work table and a scrap of wood that could be bored all the way through when indexed to the 90 degree stop and then move the 90 degree stop to the opposite side of the worktable and reference the flip side of the scrap to the cutting bit. ?This allows you to index dowel holes to the edge or end of a workpiece exactly the same distance from the fence. ?I may have some photos if anyone is interested.
Another way to index parts is to use a wooden fence in place of the small metal one on the front edge of the worktable. ?You can set the wooden fence just below the height of the cutter and mark locations on the top edge of the fence. ?The thumbscrews that held the metal fence on my FD250 were very long and easily accommodated 6mm plywood for a fence.
I found the FD250 to provide a lot of bang for the buck. ?The alternatives that were better cost between $14k and $30k depending on options. ?The Hoffmann (HR150?) like the one Ultimate Joe Calhoon has is one option and the Stegherr FD Junior is another.?
I also had custom boring bits made that were .1mm oversize for the dowels I was using. ?I bought them from Greg at Rangate, they had nice thick carbide and worked well in side grain and end grain. ?
Joe in New Orleans
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Hi David,
I have a FD250. I bought it used and it did not have the morticing option. IMHO, this option is needed to make slotting an enjoyable experience. It adds a rack & pinion (terminology may be off but I hope it gets the idea across) and a separate lever. The joy stick is okay but with this lever fwd motion is essentially fixed while you sweep horizontally. With joystick, if used regularly, one may develop sufficient muscle memory but that is not the case with me. Mortising option also adds a bell on the business end so that a hollow chisel can be used. I do not have any chisels so no experience there.
This is not a production machine. The process is slow if you are slot mortising. The physical position to do the mortising can be difficult for some as you stand in the rear and lean a bit fwd to see what is going on. In reality, with stops, in both directions, one should not have to do so, but I think it is natural response.
Where the machine is lacking is a way to easily index work. Maybe someone has figured something out and we all can benefit from it.
I will use the example of building a door with floating tenons. You can certainly, repeat the setting for stiles on multiple pieces via the stop on the rod, unless you door is too tall ?. But now there is no easy way to register the mortice on the mating rails. An indicator for center line of mortice can help and I may add that to my machine. Not sure if this issue is same for multirouter.
Multirouter is much more liked by some very experienced folks here, so I will certainly check it out. I am not sure, if FD250 has any advantage over multirouter, other than perhaps it can do deeper mortice/boring. You can bore holes with constant distance via the doweling attachment as well.
Hope this helps.
Imran
|
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 10:58:45AM -0800, David Pepke wrote:
| I'm looking for info on the mortising attachment for jointer/planer combos
I have one, and use it very rarely.
With the rolling cart it's straightforward to put on and take off.
If you're planning to cut mortises frequently, though, the other options mentioned in this thread would be much better choices.
Allen
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That is a good deal.? they tend to go for much higher used.? While it is not my favorite machine, 750 for an FD in working order has little risk.? Dave
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Have a FD250 that I am selling for 750. Located in Niagara Wisconsin but traveling to Chicago and could deliver. Have photos if interested. ?Has new clamp and doweling setup. Tom
|
Hi David,
I have a FD250. I bought it used and it did not have the morticing option. IMHO, this option is needed to make slotting an enjoyable experience. It adds a rack & pinion (terminology may be off but I hope it gets the idea across) and a separate lever. The joy stick is okay but with this lever fwd motion is essentially fixed while you sweep horizontally. With joystick, if used regularly, one may develop sufficient muscle memory but that is not the case with me. Mortising option also adds a bell on the business end so that a hollow chisel can be used. I do not have any chisels so no experience there.
This is not a production machine. The process is slow if you are slot mortising. The physical position to do the mortising can be difficult for some as you stand in the rear and lean a bit fwd to see what is going on. In reality, with stops, in both directions, one should not have to do so, but I think it is natural response.
Where the machine is lacking is a way to easily index work. Maybe someone has figured something out and we all can benefit from it.
I will use the example of building a door with floating tenons. You can certainly, repeat the setting for stiles on multiple pieces via the stop on the rod, unless you door is too tall ?. But now there is no easy way to register the mortice on the mating rails. An indicator for center line of mortice can help and I may add that to my machine. Not sure if this issue is same for multirouter.
Multirouter is much more liked by some very experienced folks here, so I will certainly check it out. I am not sure, if FD250 has any advantage over multirouter, other than perhaps it can do deeper mortice/boring. You can bore holes with constant distance via the doweling attachment as well.
Hope this helps.
Imran
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On Jan 28, 2021, at 1:58 PM, David Pepke <davidpepke@...> wrote: ?I'm looking for info on the mortising attachment for jointer/planer combos - like the Ad741.
Does anyone have experience with it? Is it meant to be put on and taken off regularly - and is it difficult to do?
I have a small sho, so I would need to take it off for it to be a viable option.
The alternative route would be to get the FD250 - does anyone have experience with that one? I can't find that much info on it online.
Kind regards?
David
|
i have the FD 250 but never liked it much.? It does the job and bets a router or chopping but it likes smaller mortises better than the 5/8" I usually did.? There was also a slight variation between end and long grain mortises.? Maybe technique but one of the
other required a little hand work.? I rehabbed a used Bacci and use it now.? There was a used Kolle mortiser on woodweb which will be similar to the FD but a little stouter build.? Dave
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I'm looking for info on the mortising attachment for jointer/planer combos - like the Ad741.
Does anyone have experience with it? Is it meant to be put on and taken off regularly - and is it difficult to do?
I have a small sho, so I would need to take it off for it to be a viable option.
The alternative route would be to get the FD250 - does anyone have experience with that one? I can't find that much info on it online.
Kind regards?
David
|
Totally agree with Jason.? David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Jan 28, 2021, at 11:16 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
? I'd? buy a Multirouter in a heartbeat before an FD250. Never liked that machine. It always wanted to pull into the wood. We even added a gas spring device to it to counteract that tendency. We tried different bits too. It is good for doweling however.?
Jason Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Have a FD250 that I am selling for 750. Located in Niagara Wisconsin but traveling to Chicago and could deliver. Have photos if interested. ?Has new clamp and doweling setup. Tom
|
Jason,
Did you have the mortising version which adds a gear for Fed/Rev motion controlled via a lever on the left side of the machine? The joy stick being in right side when standing in the rear.
Imran?
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On Jan 28, 2021, at 2:16 PM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote: ? I'd? buy a Multirouter in a heartbeat before an FD250. Never liked that machine. It always wanted to pull into the wood. We even added a gas spring device to it to counteract that tendency. We tried different bits too. It is good for doweling however.?
Jason Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
I was in your same position a couple years back. My recollection was that the mortising attachment for combo machines is still fairly limited in depth and fidgety to setup/takedown.
I ended up buying an FD250 and it's been good for what it does as a specialty machine. I concur with Jason's assessment that it can sometimes feel like it isn't obeying, but I rely faithfully on the lateral stops and the depth stops to keep it from going outside the "window". I also have found adjusting the pitch the machine sits on the floor makes a big difference?between using it happily and extreme frustration, as the power assembly is so big and heavy and free-sliding on the mechanism, it can work for you and against you equally.I still think it's a good fit where you need it's capabilities without tying yourself to larger footprint (and possibly less flexible) vertical?mortiser. I roll the FD250 into position and back out of the way with relative ease, and that's a great feature.
I'm looking for info on the mortising attachment for jointer/planer combos - like the Ad741.
Does anyone have experience with it? Is it meant to be put on and taken off regularly - and is it difficult to do?
I have a small sho, so I would need to take it off for it to be a viable option.
The alternative route would be to get the FD250 - does anyone have experience with that one? I can't find that much info on it online.
Kind regards?
David
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
I'd? buy a Multirouter in a heartbeat before an FD250. Never liked that machine. It always wanted to pull into the wood. We even added a gas spring device to it to counteract that tendency. We tried different bits too. It is good for doweling however.?
Jason Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: How to Remove Wire from Brake Board Connector
Thanks Everyone. The square hole is the answer. Push a flag head screw driver and then left the handle up, pushing tip down. I could not see anything happening when I did that in the new board w/o wires but did work on the old board.
Imran
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On Jan 28, 2021, at 1:29 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote: ? Yes, great for tight spots when the din rail is loaded with slices, 99 percent of the time we and production use a regular ol¡¯ flat head. I like the longer ones like in the pic, ?150 mm as it can reach into a deep cabinet more easily.? On Jan 28, 2021, at 1:23 PM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? They actually make a tool for that
Try the Square opening with a small flathead, you just push it in and opens up the spring. I don¡¯t have the exact connector at hand but here is the concept?
<image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> ?Insert a paper clip in the small round hole to release spring tension to remove or insert wire.? If you enlarge the image you can see the spring.
--
Jerry P
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans.
"You can observe a lot by watching."? Yogi Berra
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
I'm looking for info on the mortising attachment for jointer/planer combos - like the Ad741.
Does anyone have experience with it? Is it meant to be put on and taken off regularly - and is it difficult to do?
I have a small sho, so I would need to take it off for it to be a viable option.
The alternative route would be to get the FD250 - does anyone have experience with that one? I can't find that much info on it online.
Kind regards?
David
|
Re: How to Remove Wire from Brake Board Connector
Yes, great for tight spots when the din rail is loaded with slices, 99 percent of the time we and production use a regular ol¡¯ flat head. I like the longer ones like in the pic, ?150 mm as it can reach into a deep cabinet more easily.?
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On Jan 28, 2021, at 1:23 PM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? They actually make a tool for that
Try the Square opening with a small flathead, you just push it in and opens up the spring. I don¡¯t have the exact connector at hand but here is the concept?
  ?Insert a paper clip in the small round hole to release spring tension to remove or insert wire.? If you enlarge the image you can see the spring.
--
Jerry P
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans.
"You can observe a lot by watching."? Yogi Berra
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: How to Remove Wire from Brake Board Connector
They actually make a tool for that
Try the Square opening with a small flathead, you just push it in and opens up the spring. I don¡¯t have the exact connector at hand but here is the concept?
  ?Insert a paper clip in the small round hole to release spring tension to remove or insert wire.? If you enlarge the image you can see the spring.
--
Jerry P
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans.
"You can observe a lot by watching."? Yogi Berra
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Felder Panel tilting device for Fat 300S
Does anyone have the FELDER panel tilting device on their FAT 300S or 500S? Does it work as well as it looks? It looks like it would be awesome for moving sheet goods. I might have to see if I could cobble together something to work on my FAT 300.? 
|
imran
Allen Akin
David P. Best
Jason Holtz
JP Rice