Yes is simple to add the LED however they are sensing when the blade goes on (obviously) but also in the case of auto scoring when the scoring is fully retracted plus a few seconds, the LEDs don¡¯t just turn off when the switch is flipped. I would think with the auto score it is not simply timed from turning the switch but timed when fully retracted, ?without auto score you could simply time it, also the switch is lighted but way too dim I didn¡¯t even notice that it did that until like a week or two ago.?
For what it¡¯s worth I think the LED is totally worth it even with auto score, i have left the switch on turned off the saw, a few days later turned on the saw not needing the scoring but assumed/didn¡¯t check if scoring was on...
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On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:52 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Mark,
I do not mean to bad mouth but somehow LED feature is less impressive when seen gutted out. Your post is very timely. I am working on adding wireless switches to my slider. It did not occur to me until now but adding LEDs to turn on with scoring is not that hard. Definitely going to look into that ?
Imran
On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:24 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Oops, and here is the original with the silicone for reference , all of the cavities below the LED were filled with silicone?
<image0.jpeg> On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:19 AM, Mark Kessler via groups.io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Hey Imran, looks like I left out some key details, there are so many for such a simple thing really.?
The white blob is silicone, looks like they filled most of the internal pockets of the factory section with silicone, to hold it in place and to diffuse the light. The LED¡¯s don¡¯t even line up with the holes. The gray parts are the factory supplied parts.
Yes the first step was to redraw/ model the exact parts that felder supplied to their dimensions, i then extruded down about 8mm for the wood insert and add the tap locations for the bolts to hole the wood insert. At that point i had to extrude pockets on the backside for the LED wiring and there is a little metal dust shield that required space relived, there are some other minor tweaks that were required to make it work.?
When I bolted on the 3d printed part it actually lined up dead flush with the cast, I would prefer a little adjustment so I had to drill out the washer of the bolt that holds the part onto the cast by .5 mm and that dust shield, had to file a flat on the washer so the part could have a little room to drop below the table if needed.?
I was resisting and really wanted to just buy it so I could get back to building furniture but couldn¡¯t take the random flying pieces of wood anymore, One of the big drawbacks of a zci for me is that you have to remove it for angle cuts but yet in another plus of moving up to the k940 over the k700 is that you don¡¯t have to remove it to change the angle, at least with a 300mm blade which is what I use.?
Felder should offer it but I think it would be pretty costly, they could recut the mold for the Injection molded parts but the parts they are getting out now (at least the ones on my machine) are pretty low quality, lots of shrinkage probably due to injecting too fast, cooling to fast I doubt they did a a flow analysis- could probably improve the part with scientific molding but even then plastic isn¡¯t really the right material to base a ZCI off of for this machine config, could be done but metal as the base would be better.?
Here are some additional screen shots for clarification.
Here is the dust shield with the clipped washers? <image6.jpeg> <image7.jpeg> <image8.jpeg>
On Jan 20, 2021, at 7:29 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Looks Awesome. What is the white blob looking thing at the end of LED strip?
So looks like you are recreating what felder supplies. Is this 1st step to make ZCI?
I need one terribly for K975. I bought 2 for KF700 and never installed them. It was not bad because I do not have scoring. I think scoring just exacerbates the situation and cutoffs are violent. IMHO, OEM should consider ZCI implementation when designing the saw.
Imran
On Jan 19, 2021, at 11:27 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
??
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section? <image0.png> <image1.png> <image2.png> <image3.jpeg> <image4.jpeg> <image5.jpeg> <image6.jpeg> <Video.MOV>
|
Altendorf "C-45" Sliding Table Saw in Utah - $1800
|
Mark,
I do not mean to bad mouth but somehow LED feature is less impressive when seen gutted out. Your post is very timely. I am working on adding wireless switches to my slider. It did not occur to me until now but adding LEDs to turn on with scoring is not that hard. Definitely going to look into that ?
Imran
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Show quoted text
On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:24 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote: ? Oops, and here is the original with the silicone for reference , all of the cavities below the LED were filled with silicone?
<image0.jpeg> On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:19 AM, Mark Kessler via groups.io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Hey Imran, looks like I left out some key details, there are so many for such a simple thing really.?
The white blob is silicone, looks like they filled most of the internal pockets of the factory section with silicone, to hold it in place and to diffuse the light. The LED¡¯s don¡¯t even line up with the holes. The gray parts are the factory supplied parts.
Yes the first step was to redraw/ model the exact parts that felder supplied to their dimensions, i then extruded down about 8mm for the wood insert and add the tap locations for the bolts to hole the wood insert. At that point i had to extrude pockets on the backside for the LED wiring and there is a little metal dust shield that required space relived, there are some other minor tweaks that were required to make it work.?
When I bolted on the 3d printed part it actually lined up dead flush with the cast, I would prefer a little adjustment so I had to drill out the washer of the bolt that holds the part onto the cast by .5 mm and that dust shield, had to file a flat on the washer so the part could have a little room to drop below the table if needed.?
I was resisting and really wanted to just buy it so I could get back to building furniture but couldn¡¯t take the random flying pieces of wood anymore, One of the big drawbacks of a zci for me is that you have to remove it for angle cuts but yet in another plus of moving up to the k940 over the k700 is that you don¡¯t have to remove it to change the angle, at least with a 300mm blade which is what I use.?
Felder should offer it but I think it would be pretty costly, they could recut the mold for the Injection molded parts but the parts they are getting out now (at least the ones on my machine) are pretty low quality, lots of shrinkage probably due to injecting too fast, cooling to fast I doubt they did a a flow analysis- could probably improve the part with scientific molding but even then plastic isn¡¯t really the right material to base a ZCI off of for this machine config, could be done but metal as the base would be better.?
Here are some additional screen shots for clarification.
Here is the dust shield with the clipped washers? <image6.jpeg> <image7.jpeg> <image8.jpeg>
On Jan 20, 2021, at 7:29 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Looks Awesome. What is the white blob looking thing at the end of LED strip?
So looks like you are recreating what felder supplies. Is this 1st step to make ZCI?
I need one terribly for K975. I bought 2 for KF700 and never installed them. It was not bad because I do not have scoring. I think scoring just exacerbates the situation and cutoffs are violent. IMHO, OEM should consider ZCI implementation when designing the saw.
Imran
On Jan 19, 2021, at 11:27 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
??
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section? <image0.png> <image1.png> <image2.png> <image3.jpeg> <image4.jpeg> <image5.jpeg> <image6.jpeg> <Video.MOV>
|
Re: Electrical Problem with CF731 Pro
Hi Imran,
I power off the main switch, then move the selector dial to the machines that do start, and then power back on.? So long as the selector remains on either J/P (or horizontal mortiser) or Shaper (forward or reverse), it starts and runs fine, and I can toggle between forward/reverse in that setting.? Second it goes through TDC/table saw, it's kaput.
And, yes, the selector came with a new knob. That was probably $695 for the knob, $5 for the selector!
What would the knob have to do with this?? By the way, changing the selector switch changed nothing.? Same fail, different switch.
Thanks!
Greg
On Tue, Jan 19, 2021 at 6:56 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Greg,
How do you revive it once no machine starts?
Did the selector switch come with a new knob?
Imran ?Hello.? I've been experiencing exasperating problems with the start function on my machine. I can now probably write a book about this, but suffice to say that when the selector switch is set to Table Saw, the machine fails to start.? I've worked quite a bit with Phillip Dingus at Felder.? He's been a champion, but we've failed to figure out what is happening.? I sprung for a whopping $700 to buy a new selector switch, which I meticulously installed, terminal for terminal, wire for wire, with zero effect.? The machine will start when set to J/P and Shaper, in forward or reverse, but any time the selector passes through TDC (which is the Table Saw), no machine will subsequently start.? I am wondering if there is anyone in the group who is sufficiently wise in the ways of electrical engineering to help me through the wiring diagram to perhaps pinpoint what is going wrong.? I have also traced every single wire in the machine, and compared the "as-is" wiring to the wiring diagram furnished by Felder.? There are some anomalies, but the machine worked flawlessly as wired for 19-1/2 years, so...go figure.? Any ideas of where to turn?? Thanks!? Greg
-- Rather the Ice Than Their Way --Eric the Red
|
Mark,
That is so cool, thanks for sharing. BTW, does your K940 maintain rip fence measurement when blade is tilted? My KF does but it was a surprised to learn that it did not on K975 - only found out after purchase.
I plan to get into modeling once this pandemic is over. Last summer I tumbled onto a little known detail that, in Ohio, residents over 60 (IIRC the exact age) can attend/audit classes in state institutions for free. I checked and Indiana has the same policy. So i called our vocational school, Ivy Tech, and they confirmed. Tuition is waved but there could still be other costs like computer/lab use. I plan to take 3D modeling and welding.
Imran
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On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:19 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote: ? Hey Imran, looks like I left out some key details, there are so many for such a simple thing really.?
The white blob is silicone, looks like they filled most of the internal pockets of the factory section with silicone, to hold it in place and to diffuse the light. The LED¡¯s don¡¯t even line up with the holes. The gray parts are the factory supplied parts.
Yes the first step was to redraw/ model the exact parts that felder supplied to their dimensions, i then extruded down about 8mm for the wood insert and add the tap locations for the bolts to hole the wood insert. At that point i had to extrude pockets on the backside for the LED wiring and there is a little metal dust shield that required space relived, there are some other minor tweaks that were required to make it work.?
When I bolted on the 3d printed part it actually lined up dead flush with the cast, I would prefer a little adjustment so I had to drill out the washer of the bolt that holds the part onto the cast by .5 mm and that dust shield, had to file a flat on the washer so the part could have a little room to drop below the table if needed.?
I was resisting and really wanted to just buy it so I could get back to building furniture but couldn¡¯t take the random flying pieces of wood anymore, One of the big drawbacks of a zci for me is that you have to remove it for angle cuts but yet in another plus of moving up to the k940 over the k700 is that you don¡¯t have to remove it to change the angle, at least with a 300mm blade which is what I use.?
Felder should offer it but I think it would be pretty costly, they could recut the mold for the Injection molded parts but the parts they are getting out now (at least the ones on my machine) are pretty low quality, lots of shrinkage probably due to injecting too fast, cooling to fast I doubt they did a a flow analysis- could probably improve the part with scientific molding but even then plastic isn¡¯t really the right material to base a ZCI off of for this machine config, could be done but metal as the base would be better.?
Here are some additional screen shots for clarification.
Here is the dust shield with the clipped washers? <image6.jpeg> <image7.jpeg> <image8.jpeg>
On Jan 20, 2021, at 7:29 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Looks Awesome. What is the white blob looking thing at the end of LED strip?
So looks like you are recreating what felder supplies. Is this 1st step to make ZCI?
I need one terribly for K975. I bought 2 for KF700 and never installed them. It was not bad because I do not have scoring. I think scoring just exacerbates the situation and cutoffs are violent. IMHO, OEM should consider ZCI implementation when designing the saw.
Imran
On Jan 19, 2021, at 11:27 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
??
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section? <image0.png> <image1.png> <image2.png> <image3.jpeg> <image4.jpeg> <image5.jpeg> <image6.jpeg> <Video.MOV>
|
Thanks Imran. I have the router belt, it only aligns with the third pulley on the motor. The router spindle is unlike the shaper spindle and has only one pulley built into?it.
I¡¯ll check the threads for John¡¯s mod.
Bill B¨¦langer?
On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 07:54 imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Bill,
On KF700 router spindle requires it¡¯s own belt.
On KF700 hood a modification is needed that John Kee shared for full or better use of router bits.
Imran On Jan 20, 2021, at 9:49 AM, Bill B¨¦langer < Bllblngr@...> wrote: ?So yesterday I needed a roundover on a 1/2 piece of oak so I figured this is great time to try my new F700Z as a router.
First thing I noticed is that the belt will not fit on the lower motor pulley as shown on the placard on the front of the machine where it looks like you'd get 15,000 RPMs.
It will only go on the 3rd one down.
Second is that with the aigner fence, It will not go back far enough to get to the bearing on the top of the roundover bit.
You cannot use the full bit.
I'm wondering if the original Felder fence will facilitate that last 5mm of travel?
Thanks in advance
Bill B¨¦langer
|
The fact that the Aigner fence is thicker than the original fence is fixable with a modification as per?John Kee's post. I couldn't find John's post. Here is my post on the subject: /g/felderownersgroup/topic/76701518#109503
|
I used to have the thread but saved these images for when I get around to it
Dave Davies
On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 8:54 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Bill,
On KF700 router spindle requires it¡¯s own belt.
On KF700 hood a modification is needed that John Kee shared for full or better use of router bits.
Imran On Jan 20, 2021, at 9:49 AM, Bill B¨¦langer < Bllblngr@...> wrote: ?So yesterday I needed a roundover on a 1/2 piece of oak so I figured this is great time to try my new F700Z as a router.
First thing I noticed is that the belt will not fit on the lower motor pulley as shown on the placard on the front of the machine where it looks like you'd get 15,000 RPMs.
It will only go on the 3rd one down.
Second is that with the aigner fence, It will not go back far enough to get to the bearing on the top of the roundover bit.
You cannot use the full bit.
I'm wondering if the original Felder fence will facilitate that last 5mm of travel?
Thanks in advance
Bill B¨¦langer
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Oops, and here is the original with the silicone for reference , all of the cavities below the LED were filled with silicone?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:19 AM, Mark Kessler via groups.io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Hey Imran, looks like I left out some key details, there are so many for such a simple thing really.?
The white blob is silicone, looks like they filled most of the internal pockets of the factory section with silicone, to hold it in place and to diffuse the light. The LED¡¯s don¡¯t even line up with the holes. The gray parts are the factory supplied parts.
Yes the first step was to redraw/ model the exact parts that felder supplied to their dimensions, i then extruded down about 8mm for the wood insert and add the tap locations for the bolts to hole the wood insert. At that point i had to extrude pockets on the backside for the LED wiring and there is a little metal dust shield that required space relived, there are some other minor tweaks that were required to make it work.?
When I bolted on the 3d printed part it actually lined up dead flush with the cast, I would prefer a little adjustment so I had to drill out the washer of the bolt that holds the part onto the cast by .5 mm and that dust shield, had to file a flat on the washer so the part could have a little room to drop below the table if needed.?
I was resisting and really wanted to just buy it so I could get back to building furniture but couldn¡¯t take the random flying pieces of wood anymore, One of the big drawbacks of a zci for me is that you have to remove it for angle cuts but yet in another plus of moving up to the k940 over the k700 is that you don¡¯t have to remove it to change the angle, at least with a 300mm blade which is what I use.?
Felder should offer it but I think it would be pretty costly, they could recut the mold for the Injection molded parts but the parts they are getting out now (at least the ones on my machine) are pretty low quality, lots of shrinkage probably due to injecting too fast, cooling to fast I doubt they did a a flow analysis- could probably improve the part with scientific molding but even then plastic isn¡¯t really the right material to base a ZCI off of for this machine config, could be done but metal as the base would be better.?
Here are some additional screen shots for clarification.
Here is the dust shield with the clipped washers? <image6.jpeg> <image7.jpeg> <image8.jpeg>
On Jan 20, 2021, at 7:29 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Looks Awesome. What is the white blob looking thing at the end of LED strip?
So looks like you are recreating what felder supplies. Is this 1st step to make ZCI?
I need one terribly for K975. I bought 2 for KF700 and never installed them. It was not bad because I do not have scoring. I think scoring just exacerbates the situation and cutoffs are violent. IMHO, OEM should consider ZCI implementation when designing the saw.
Imran
On Jan 19, 2021, at 11:27 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
??
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section? <image0.png> <image1.png> <image2.png> <image3.jpeg> <image4.jpeg> <image5.jpeg> <image6.jpeg> <Video.MOV>
|
Hey Imran, looks like I left out some key details, there are so many for such a simple thing really.?
The white blob is silicone, looks like they filled most of the internal pockets of the factory section with silicone, to hold it in place and to diffuse the light. The LED¡¯s don¡¯t even line up with the holes. The gray parts are the factory supplied parts.
Yes the first step was to redraw/ model the exact parts that felder supplied to their dimensions, i then extruded down about 8mm for the wood insert and add the tap locations for the bolts to hole the wood insert. At that point i had to extrude pockets on the backside for the LED wiring and there is a little metal dust shield that required space relived, there are some other minor tweaks that were required to make it work.?
When I bolted on the 3d printed part it actually lined up dead flush with the cast, I would prefer a little adjustment so I had to drill out the washer of the bolt that holds the part onto the cast by .5 mm and that dust shield, had to file a flat on the washer so the part could have a little room to drop below the table if needed.?
I was resisting and really wanted to just buy it so I could get back to building furniture but couldn¡¯t take the random flying pieces of wood anymore, One of the big drawbacks of a zci for me is that you have to remove it for angle cuts but yet in another plus of moving up to the k940 over the k700 is that you don¡¯t have to remove it to change the angle, at least with a 300mm blade which is what I use.?
Felder should offer it but I think it would be pretty costly, they could recut the mold for the Injection molded parts but the parts they are getting out now (at least the ones on my machine) are pretty low quality, lots of shrinkage probably due to injecting too fast, cooling to fast I doubt they did a a flow analysis- could probably improve the part with scientific molding but even then plastic isn¡¯t really the right material to base a ZCI off of for this machine config, could be done but metal as the base would be better.?
Here are some additional screen shots for clarification.
Here is the dust shield with the clipped washers?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 20, 2021, at 7:29 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Looks Awesome. What is the white blob looking thing at the end of LED strip?
So looks like you are recreating what felder supplies. Is this 1st step to make ZCI?
I need one terribly for K975. I bought 2 for KF700 and never installed them. It was not bad because I do not have scoring. I think scoring just exacerbates the situation and cutoffs are violent. IMHO, OEM should consider ZCI implementation when designing the saw.
Imran
On Jan 19, 2021, at 11:27 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
??
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section? <image0.png> <image1.png> <image2.png> <image3.jpeg> <image4.jpeg> <image5.jpeg> <image6.jpeg> <Video.MOV>
|
Bill,
On KF700 router spindle requires it¡¯s own belt.
On KF700 hood a modification is needed that John Kee shared for full or better use of router bits.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 20, 2021, at 9:49 AM, Bill B¨¦langer <Bllblngr@...> wrote: ?So yesterday I needed a roundover on a 1/2 piece of oak so I figured this is great time to try my new F700Z as a router.
First thing I noticed is that the belt will not fit on the lower motor pulley as shown on the placard on the front of the machine where it looks like you'd get 15,000 RPMs.
It will only go on the 3rd one down.
Second is that with the aigner fence, It will not go back far enough to get to the bearing on the top of the roundover bit.
You cannot use the full bit.
I'm wondering if the original Felder fence will facilitate that last 5mm of travel?
Thanks in advance
Bill B¨¦langer
|
So yesterday I needed a roundover on a 1/2 piece of oak so I figured this is great time to try my new F700Z as a router.
First thing I noticed is that the belt will not fit on the lower motor pulley as shown on the placard on the front of the machine where it looks like you'd get 15,000 RPMs.
It will only go on the 3rd one down.
Second is that with the aigner fence, It will not go back far enough to get to the bearing on the top of the roundover bit.
You cannot use the full bit.
I'm wondering if the original Felder fence will facilitate that last 5mm of travel?
Thanks in advance
Bill B¨¦langer
|
Count me in for K975 ZCIs
Imran
toggle quoted message
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On Jan 20, 2021, at 9:45 AM, Randy Child via groups.io <strongman_one@...> wrote: ?
If anyone can come up with a working ZCI for the K975..I'll buy 4 of them..just saying..
On Wednesday, January 20, 2021, 06:34:35 AM PST, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
Nice work! I love my 3D printer, especially for this kind of stuff.
So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
??
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section?
<image0.png><image1.png><image2.png><image3.jpeg><image4.jpeg><image5.jpeg><image6.jpeg><Video.MOV>
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Re: Electrical Problem with CF731 Pro
Did you check your saw start button? They tend to get dust inside them and malfunction. Each green button is Normally Open and when you push it, the circuit connects and starts the motor. Each function has it¡¯s own start button. The stop buttons are all in a string, so if any of them are pushed, it will stop any function/motor on the machine.
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Hello.? I've been experiencing exasperating problems with the start function on my machine. I can now probably write a book about this, but suffice to say that when the selector switch is set to Table Saw, the machine fails to start.? I've worked quite a bit with Phillip Dingus at Felder.? He's been a champion, but we've failed to figure out what is happening.? I sprung for a whopping $700 to buy a new selector switch, which I meticulously installed, terminal for terminal, wire for wire, with zero effect.? The machine will start when set to J/P and Shaper, in forward or reverse, but any time the selector passes through TDC (which is the Table Saw), no machine will subsequently start.? I am wondering if there is anyone in the group who is sufficiently wise in the ways of electrical engineering to help me through the wiring diagram to perhaps pinpoint what is going wrong.? I have also traced every single wire in the machine, and compared the "as-is" wiring to the wiring diagram furnished by Felder.? There are some anomalies, but the machine worked flawlessly as wired for 19-1/2 years, so...go figure.? Any ideas of where to turn?? Thanks!? Greg
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If anyone can come up with a working ZCI for the K975..I'll buy 4 of them..just saying..
On Wednesday, January 20, 2021, 06:34:35 AM PST, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
Nice work! I love my 3D printer, especially for this kind of stuff.
So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
??
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section?
<image0.png><image1.png><image2.png><image3.jpeg><image4.jpeg><image5.jpeg><image6.jpeg><Video.MOV>
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Nice work! I love my 3D printer, especially for this kind of stuff.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
??
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section?
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Re: Power feeder mount Hammer C3-31
Hi Roger,
I worked with a few folks, sorry that I forgot. That is just too bad that there is no solution for hammer.
You know if one is unable to flip the PF or likely to sustain an injury doing so, a hoist can be used as a last resort - A very slow moving one. That was actually my first attempt. an electric one from HF which was way too fast. Once I moved my entire machine, scary. Would not recommend it.
As I write this, I realize that there is a kill switch on the hoist (a puck like thing contacts the kill switch). This puck normally resides at the end of the rope and turns motor off when rope is completely rewound. I have not checked but if that can be moved and fixed along the rope, one can automatically kill the hoist before reaching the max rotation of the PF. Then push it by hand over the fulcrum and then release the hoist to bring it down. This may make it safe to use the cheap HF hoist.
Imran?
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On Jan 20, 2021, at 12:14 AM, Roger S <rsinden@...> wrote: ? Imran, if ypou recall we had ths discussion a while back and I sent some photos. ?The conclusion was that there was no room.
Roger
All you need is a lip to screw the custom bracket. I can lift my beast Vario4 with 2 fingers. Some felder combos don¡¯t have the 1.75¡± space required, so not sure if hammer has the room. All parts run about $60 for the setup.
Imran ?Thanks Imran,
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? It is a different bracket and according to Felder, the gas strut is not suitable, but they say that about the spiral cutter as a retro fit!
The bracket is specific to H32, HC308 and C3-31.
Regards,
Trevor
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Looks Awesome. What is the white blob looking thing at the end of LED strip?
So looks like you are recreating what felder supplies. Is this 1st step to make ZCI?
I need one terribly for K975. I bought 2 for KF700 and never installed them. It was not bad because I do not have scoring. I think scoring just exacerbates the situation and cutoffs are violent. IMHO, OEM should consider ZCI implementation when designing the saw.
Imran
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On Jan 19, 2021, at 11:27 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote: ? So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
??
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section? <image0.png> <image1.png> <image2.png> <image3.jpeg> <image4.jpeg> <image5.jpeg> <image6.jpeg> <Video.MOV>
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I confess I had to google "flying spur" . . .? I figured that was
what happened when a cowboy gets thrown from his horse.
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
On 1/19/2021 9:46 PM, David Kumm wrote:
About 15 years ago I had a new Audi A8L and it was sweet.? The
first Badger game I parked it in the private garage and thought
I was hot shit.? Came out after the game and next to it was a
new Flying Spur.? There was absolutely no comparison.? Deflating
but real life and lesson learned.? Dave
And I figured it would be Bentley.?
David Best - via mobile phone?
?
Aston-Martin.? Dave
Which would you
prefer? ? A turntable branded Hammer, Felder,
Format-4, Martin, or Mercedes-Benz ? ?ROFLMAO.
On Jan 19, 2021, at 5:20 PM,
David Kumm < davekumm@...>
wrote:
I have one saw that I wish was on a
turntable.? It is in a single bay part of
the garage.? Long rips in one direction
but need to turn it for long crosscuts.?
Easier to go to the other building than
reconfigure.? Dave
?Well? Thanks for
that.?? So my assumption was in
error?? One doesn't do? anything with
a turn table ON a saw.? One puts the
Saw ON a turn table.
I am a little
nonplussed though.?? I am unable to?
imagine the utility? of turning one's
saw round and round.? What's the up
side?? Sales? Showroom stuff?
Anyway I could make
you one.???
You
will have to provide me five guys to
help me get the plate on and off my
mill.?
?
On
1/17/21 12:03 AM, imranindiana via??wrote:
Cliff,
turntable is
not on the saw, rather saw is on the
turn table
<image0.jpeg>
Imran
?
I gotta ask.??
What? does one do with a turn
table on a sliding saw? or any
table saw?
On
1/16/21 3:22 PM, Paul Curme wrote:
Does anyone
have a copy of the drawing of
the top mounting plate for the
almost mythical turntable for
the BF6.
I remember mounting a 6-41 M
on one for an exhibition in
1994 while working for the
guys that were the uk sales
agent back then but cant
figure out the centre point of
rotation for my machine as its
not as straight forward as one
might expect. Because we got
it wrong at the 1st attempt.
I've located a potential
bearing that is the right size
and load capacity. But need
the top plate layout, because
the layout is to close to
guess.
Catalog picture without the
machine would do at a pinch.
Thanks in advance.
Sent from my Windows Phone
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
About 15 years ago I had a new Audi A8L and it was sweet.? The first Badger game I parked it in the private garage and thought I was hot shit.? Came out after the game and next to it was a new Flying Spur.? There was absolutely no comparison.? Deflating but
real life and lesson learned.? Dave
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Show quoted text
And I figured it would be Bentley.?
David Best - via mobile phone?
On Jan 19, 2021, at 8:29 PM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
Aston-Martin.? Dave
Which would you prefer? ? A turntable branded Hammer, Felder, Format-4, Martin, or Mercedes-Benz ? ?ROFLMAO.
On Jan 19, 2021, at 5:20 PM, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
I have one saw that I wish was on a turntable.? It is in a single bay part of the garage.? Long rips in one direction but need to turn it for long crosscuts.? Easier to go to the other building than reconfigure.? Dave
?Well? Thanks for that.?? So my assumption was in error?? One doesn't do? anything with a turn table ON a saw.? One puts the Saw ON a turn table.
I am a little nonplussed though.?? I am unable to? imagine the utility? of turning one's saw round and round.? What's the up side?? Sales? Showroom stuff?
Anyway I could make you one.???
You will have to provide me five guys to help me get the plate on and off my mill.?
?
On 1/17/21 12:03 AM, imranindiana via??wrote:
Cliff,
turntable is not on the saw, rather saw is on the turn table
<image0.jpeg>
Imran
?
I gotta ask.?? What? does one do with a turn table on a sliding saw? or any table saw?
On 1/16/21 3:22 PM, Paul Curme wrote:
Does anyone have a copy of the drawing of the top mounting plate for the almost mythical turntable for the BF6.
I remember mounting a 6-41 M on one for an exhibition in 1994 while working for the guys that were the uk sales agent back then but cant figure out the centre point of rotation for my machine as its not as straight forward as one might expect. Because we got
it wrong at the 1st attempt.
I've located a potential bearing that is the right size and load capacity. But need the top plate layout, because the layout is to close to guess.
Catalog picture without the machine would do at a pinch.
Thanks in advance.
Sent from my Windows Phone
|
imran
Bill Belanger