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Re: KF 700 SP options
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Hi Joe I do not feel 30 years old is very old for woodwork.? Much of the modern standard is a 50 life span at best. It's sad because trees will often take 100 or more years to grow to where they will produce quality material. It's a down ward spiral. Most of my work incorporates successful designs from 100 to 200 year old furniture and architectural work. If maintained I see no reason why the things I make should not last just as long as the pieces that inspired them given the same care to maintenance is given. I work with Koa most often for furniture and do not expect that there will be a viable supply left for harvest 15 years from now. It's quite sad. Most of what is harvested is newer growth and a poor quality. I feel a social responsibility to build to my highest possible standard.
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For doors and most mortice and tenon work I use thru tenons. When mortices were hand cut, they often were thru tenons. This made it easier to cut a square parallel piped hole accurately coming from both sides as opposed to a blind mortise. Even with a chisel mortiser if the chisel wanders or the table? or stock is out a little any error can be corrected by mortising half way thru either side to get a joint that mates up squarely. Further A thru tenon has more structural integrity than a blind mortised tenon. Seems the industry stard for M&T seems to be 2.5" which I feel is inadequate.? If you look at doors 100 years old or more many or most will be thru tenon. After the glue eventually fails from a 100 years of seasonal cycling of shrinking and expanding even if the glue joint does not break, the the wood fibers will tear away from themselves. Then your relying on your joinery to hold your work together.? The joint has to be compressed together to create the tension needed to hold the joint tight. I feel the " leave room for glue" is just an excuse for poor cutting of the joinery.? Glue manufactures like TB will state 3mil glue, and that it's not intended to fill voids or gaps. So if your joint has enough play to "adjust "during glue up theres gaps. And after the glue fails.....? Quality Old doors with thru tenons, made with properly dried material and sound joinery hold there form even though you can see the glue has failed.Given a thickness of part that will accommodate, will use double tenons. So there fore doubling the strength. And there are times on cedar sliding doors and windows where I do not glue them at all. The joints need to be tight enough where they need to be hammered together. Otherwise I have moved to hide glue by Old Brown Glue for it's reversible quality where if I need to disassemble the work I can heat the part and worry the joinery apart. Hide glue is one of the few adhesives that truly will bond to a dry coat of itself. Thanks fro the info on your tenon set. Ive talked to Greg more than a few times . Just waiting for a large enough? door order where I can budget in the cost. ?I think listening to all you guys has made me set on getting a felder? to replace my T130 with sliding table. I saw the format on ebay a few months back was really temped. Hope to buy new for warrantee etc. To the Op if your reading I think the other thing not mention in regard to router table vs shaper is that you will rarely if ever get burn marks on the profile. Unless you put the cutter on backwards...... funny it still milled the OHgee, black as black it was lol. ---In felder-woodworking@..., <dohertyj@...> wrote : Hi Corey, The big tenon cutters are part of a Leitz Euro window set. ? The max depth of tenon is about 90mm. ?Since the big tenon cutters are part of a window set and are made to make crossed lapped tenons the cutters have a corresponding mate that makes a joint that is a specific width. ?The standard finished stile and rail width for this set is 78mm so the tenon and its cross lapped mate have to account for this length. ?For doors I can make the stiles and rails up to 90mm wide. ?Then I hit the limit of tenon depth as the cutters are mounted on 80 mm sleeves. If I want to go wider for a tall bottom rail then I mill off the tenons on the rail and use dowels. So what is your reference for all glue failing on cross grain surfaces? ?Over what time period? While at the Thonet furniture factory in Germany last May I saw Windows used in their museum made with cross lapped tenons and there was no evidence that the corner glue joints were failing. ?I am guessing that the windows were 20 to 30 years old. ?I noticed these windows because they had a 4mm air gap and were 58mm thick. ?This is similar to the euro windows I make. ?Europe has moved on to thicker more energy efficient windows so 58mm windows are now obsolete. ?I think they still work well for New Orleans climate though. ? Joe in New Orleans
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