Re: Feedback on the sliding saw selection
开云体育Hi Stan, The outrigger glides along the length of the slider with unlocking of one kip lever. So you don’t need to retract the slider all the way to make a cut. On my 10’ slider, I routinely have the outrigger 4’ towards the infeed, akin to a 6’ slider. I can straight line rip over 5’ (leaving room for the infeed clamp) and Xcut pretty much everything. If I do a conventional rip and the long xcut fence is in the way of the offcut,
You will need to pull/retract the slider completely to change the blade though. This also requires the outrigger to be within 1 ft of the far (outfeed) end of the slider. For my next point, it would help to share my shop setup. Here are 2 pics that show the shop from one side to the other. Saw sits next to the right side wall. Outrigger clears the vertical post (brown column) by 1/4”. Dual51 sits in the middle and KF700 sits along the left wall. As I mentioned earlier, I made the mistake of buying the KF700 without the outrigger. So I got used to the short xcut fence. I wanted a longer slider and an outrigger so I bought K975 with 10’ slider. The outrigger completely blocks the saw lane so I have to walk around between the J/P and the KF700. Since I was used to the short xcut fence on KF700, my thought was to only use outrigger when absolutely needed. So I spent around $700 to outfit me with the short xcut fence on K975 including the 90 deg registration fix from David Best. I calibrated the entire machine and during this I learned the capability of the long xcut fence vs the short xcut fence. Needless to say, the short xcut fence rarely comes out. I would suggest you get a slider that is as long as you think you can make work and get an outrigger. I am not certain about the difference between 1100 and 1300. I believe 1100 has 90 deg registration stop in middle rail of the outrigger (blue part in pic below). I believe 1300 has 90 deg registration towards the end of the outrigger (red circle in pic below), one on each side. 1500 has a beefier xcut fence, a roller ?and the registration is with what I call donuts (red circle pic below), one on each side of the outrigger. If you are interested in used machines, it could take some time to find one. You should be prepared to travel to check the machine and handle crating and transportation. On a new machine, I recommend you get commissioning, I only have anecdotal info, probably adds $2K to $3K.? Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations On Mar 25, 2025, at 7:26?PM, David Luckensmeyer via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
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Hi Stan: ? You are thinking well, and I appreciate your openness to a lot of conflicting opinions given here. Respect. ? In answer to some of your follow-up questions/observations. ? 20’ shop length is a key issue. My shop is 24’ and it comfortably fits a 3200mm slider. You are likely correct that a 3200mm table may not fit in your shop. David B. will have the size requirement committed to memory I’m pretty sure? And David B., thanks for posting the photo of us. That was a good day! ? Yes the slider will completely dominate the space. I used to be hung up on that but it works for me. Regarding conventional ripping, awkwardness aside, I think you are (understandably) thinking about ripping as you have always done rather than ripping on the slider. In reality, like me, you will probably rarely rip on the right side of the blade. Ripping on the left side, using clamps and parallel fence/s is safer and more accurate. There is more setup time, but not a lot more. ? That’s a great question to ask about whether anyone has downsized from a longer slider. I’m quite keen to hear any answers on that one. The closest I’m familiar with is that some choose to run multiple machines, either a slider and a conventional saw, or two sliders one of which is a short-stroke. ? You are correct that the outrigger usually sits towards the far end of a slider to make more space for ripping. The outrigger is a spectacular thing – so much better than a mitre gauge on a conventional saw that it cannot really be compared. You will not want to take off the outrigger and put it back on every time you want to park the convertible, and every time you want to make crosscuts. The outrigger is big and heavy. You ask whether you can still cut small stuff without the outrigger? Of course you can. But the outrigger is quick and accurate for 90 degrees and angles. And the cross cut stops can be relied upon. And with digital (as I have) I simply don’t want to use anything else – my outrigger and large crosscut fence are used for crosscutting long and short items. I use it 99% of the time. ? My shop is larger than yours but is absolutely crammed with machinery. I have to move the sliding table in order to walk from one side of my shop to another. I also have to walk around the end of my outrigger too. That sounds annoying – except that the saw is such a hard-working and accurate machine in my shop that I do not resent having to walk around it. ? I think Mac once told us all to harden up – we complain too much about having to walk around our machinery! (I loved that advice Mac, thank you.) ? ? Hammers are nice machines. Plus it frees up money money for shaper tooling, Mac’s pneumatic clamps, Brian’s parallel fences, a power feeder, etc. I wish you well with your deliberations. ? Warm regards, Lucky ? Dr David Luckensmeyer Designer & Maker @luckensmeyer M: 0413 013 115 ? From:
[email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Stan K via groups.io <4279427@...> |
imran