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Re: Feedback on the sliding saw selection


 

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Hi Stan:

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There are plenty of ‘solid wood people’ on this forum so I’m thinking you may well receive many relevant responses. I don’t know how big your space really is although a lot more machinery can be crammed and used in a ‘small space’ than some think. It might be useful for you to tell us how much space you actually have. Please include the ceiling height, and whether the space has to function for other things like laundry, gardening equipment, cars, cellared wine (LOL), etc.

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I am almost exclusively a solid wood person. The question of how long a slider you should purchase has a couple of considerations of which manufactured-board processing is only one. A more important question is about the typical size of projects you make. Do you see yourself making Krenov-sized cabinet-on-stand projects, or do you see yourself making king-size bed frames and large dining room tables? Volume is also important. If you only have one large dining room table project to make that’s one thing. But if you see yourself making several dining room tables that’s another. As a solid wood person, the key reason to want a longer slider has to do with straight line ripping. I like to face plane solid timber to 70-80% dressed, then straight line rip, then thickness to 100% on both sides, then select project components on the basis of colour, grain, working around cracks and defects, etc. For that process, I use my sliding tablesaw with 3200mm (10ft) slider all the time for ripping and crosscutting.

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If I had a 1550mm slider, I’d exceed that ripping length on almost every project I make. This would greatly reduce the usability of the slider as I’d have to rip on the bandsaw more often, and use a track saw, with associated losses of efficiency, satisfaction, accuracy, etc. But short sliders can and do work for many. Maybe you can now see why I’ve asked about the size of your projects because this scenario (of needing a longer table) may not happen ‘on almost every project’ for you.

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So then, my vote would be to get the longest slider you can afford and fit into your shop. I understand that a 1550mm might be all you can fit. All good. There are NO downsides in my opinion with longer sliders. I came from a long-term user of a Unisaw, to a Kappa 400 sliding table saw with 3200mm slider. Standing to the side is safe and excellent. The table is really not in the way. I perform conventional rips all the time without issue and it is safe to do so (in my opinion) because of the robust overhead saw guard. And the additional weight of the sliding table saw is no big deal. I feared it would be, but using your body to push the outrigger and slider forward, and then your body to pull them back again (using a ‘butt’ bar) is very efficient. If I’m doing a larger amount of small cross-cutting – for example a few thousand kumiko sticks – I will take off the outrigger. The actual momentum of even a large slider like mine is inconsequential (in my opinion). I’ve owned my slider for nearly 10 years and have zero regrets – just make sure you get Mac’s pneumatic clamps!

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Regarding the Hammer, 500 or 700 series, I’m biased to the 700 series and higher. Is it worth the uptick? I say emphatically yes. However, if the price just doesn’t sit well with you, I’d actually go for the Hammer over the 500 series. The Hammer is very functional and there’s plenty of Hammer owners who make outstanding items. I think it boils down to these factors:

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  • Higher specification machines help you work must faster. Only you can decide if that is worth the additional outlay.
  • Higher specifications often have a satisfaction factor. It is nice (but not necessary) to have fancy machinery to use. Only you can put a price on that.

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And finally, your dado comment is well received. That’s a definite for solid wood work. But the scoring blade? I have it, and I have used it on occasion (like half a dozen times only). But if that’s the difference between moving up a price bracket I’d lose the scoring blade. I’m a hypocrite because I have an independent and powered scoring blade, and even though I don’t use it very often I do wish I had optioned the full 3-axis version. Ha!

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I hope this helps.

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Warm regards,

Lucky

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Dr David Luckensmeyer

Designer & Maker

@luckensmeyer

M: 0413 013 115

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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Stan K via groups.io <4279427@...>
Date: Tuesday, 25 March 2025 at 10:51
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: [FOG] Feedback on the sliding saw selection

Hello, you excellent people,

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First time to the group, looking to take the plunge on (relatively) big iron ownership, hoping to run my selection process by you and hopefully reined in if it gets too crazy.

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I am a hobbyist woodworker, averaging few hours a week in my two-car-garage-turned-shop. While I used Unisaws and Sawstops in the past, I never bought a table saw for myself, making do with a bandsaw, track saw, lately a miter saw and a peculiar contraption that goes by the name Shopsmith. After ten years in this mode, I just about had it. Sliding table has been on my mind for some time, though I never used one. Long story short, over several months I persuaded myself that I need one in my life.

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Most of the work I do is with solid wood, though a recent remodel forced me to deal with cabinetry. Generally, while having a capability to work with sheet goods is appreciated, this is not where I see spending the majority of my time.

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Given that I do not have a big space, I made a couple optimization decisions. First, I'd like a saw-shaper combo. While I never used a shaper before, I can see the usefulness of the tool. It also synergizes well with a sliding table, making the combp significantly cheaper than having it a standalone tool. I expect to use it as a router half of the time, and to mill end grain joints — most of the other half.


Second, I am seriously considering a short stroke. Cross-cutting a baltic birch sheet is the largest job I see myself doing, so a 1550mm table should be enough. For long boards, there's the rip fence and from what I understand, a shorter table actually makes it easier to access. This goes against my natural "more is better" instinct so I would appreciate pointing out if I am about to make an expensive mistake.

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With that in mind, I have narrowed my Felder options to KF500 and KF700. The more expensive option is in the consideration mainly because of the DROs available for tilt and rip fence. Is it really worth the 40% higher cost? (For that matter, might I be equally happy with a Hammer option?) I am considering a belt-driven scoring blade and a dado option no matter the model I end up with.

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Sorry for the long form. Please roast my selection and thought process. Any feedback is highly appreciated.

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Cheers,

Stan

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