Hi Rob P,
This is my understanding from Sam’s video on the single point of contact method. ?
The use of a single/small point of contact on the outrigger, when using the rip fence to dimension your stock is to keep the two from “fighting” one another. ?Due to the toe-out that should be registered on your rip fence. ?Pushing the stock against both these two long surfaces simultaneously can cause tension/pulling, resulting in a pour quality straight edge. ?
I have the same K700S, but have not needed to use this method. ?I’ve had great results with just using the digital outrigger, with the Felder Parallel guide, and Mac’s AirTight clamps. ?Both small and large dimensions. ?Just recently I had to cut up some CVG Fir plywood for some cabinet doors, with a finished dimension of 16”x42”. ?After milling to final dimension I stacked them and they aligned perfectly. ?My saw is dialed in! ?Loving the results. ?
Thx,
Wade
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On Mar 19, 2025, at 3:42 PM, Rob Pritchard via groups.io <bobbydazzler2248@...> wrote:
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Hi Bryce,
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Sorry for the tardy reply, I've been travelling for work.
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I have answers to your specific questions here;
- Do you use any kind of nesting software to figure out what cuts you need to make to get the most efficient use of the material you have? A: Yes. CutList Plus
- Do you use a scoring blade? A: Yes. I have a Felder K700S
- What kind of things do you typically make from your 4x8 sheets? A: I am currently completing a kitchen made from prefinished maple ply and solid cherry face frame. The drawer fronts and doors will also be made from solid cherry but I digress.
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Let me be a bit more specific on my work processes and where I am unhappy as that may help determine if a video would be useful...
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- My first cut is the 8' long edge to remove the factory edge. I then rotate the panel 90 degrees and remove the 4' factory edge. I have both the 1500 and smaller support from my F700, hence the hijacking of this thread.
- Currently I'm using the nesting software to produce rough cut dimensions (10mm excess) and I do the initial breakdown of the 8x4' sheets. I have the software biased to prefer crosscuts so I do that next.
- I use the digital rip fence as a bumpstop.
- Finally, I cut the manageable pieces to their final dimensions.
All of the above seems to work ok. Probably not the most efficient but I'm going for accuracy and safety more than anything else.
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Where I think I'm lacking in skill is when I'm ripping the sheet goods, rather than crosscutting. I understand I should be using the digital outrigger and parallel guide as much as possible - I have the Felder analog one, which has known challenges - rather than using the rip fence. Too many times I have produced nailing strips, drawer sides, etc. that are not parallel. I'm not sure what is the cause but I suspect my technique rather than the set up of the machine.
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I've rewatched Sam Blasco's and Steve Rowe's YouTubes to get some more insight and I was wondering if you would be willing to record a short vid showing your work process? For example, do you follow Sam's suggestion of having a single contact point on the outrigger fence when referencing the rip fence? If so how do you attach it? The Felder fence does not have the slot like Sam's SCM machine. At what size do you transition from referencing the rip fence to the outrigger/parallel guide? It would seem to me that having too much of the sheet to the right of the blade and a small amount on the left of the blade is asking for trouble.
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I hope I'm making sense and I welcome any feedback from the gallery. (:o)
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Oh I should mention, I don't have air clamps (just Kreg Automaxx for now) or Lamb parallel guides. I do own a copy of David Best's Survival Guide and I have read about how to set up a parallel guide using the digital stop on the outrigger fence but I haven't made one of those yet.
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Thanks in advance.
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Cheers,
Rob P.
