I've been using atomic petg-cf and very happy with it. Pricey and made in usa. This is my goto now for shop fixtures.
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Steve, I doubt it, but the carbon fiber version is what I had on hand that is one of the easiest PETG variants to print IMO. ?I have tried about 8 different manufacture version of PETG, and many of them are difficult - Polymaker being the most challenging. ?The best stuff IMO is??- least warpage, sticks to satin bed-plate without an adhesive layer (like glue-stick), and least stringing. ?But it is in such high demand that it¡¯s often out of stock and requires a few days shipping time. ?For quicker delivery, I have found??to be almost as good - which is what I used in the print you saw (although the color I have isn¡¯t available from Amazon).
David Best - via mobile phone?
On Apr 4, 2024, at 10:01?AM, Sawdust77 <rscotthanna@...> wrote:
?
Hi David,
In your original post, you said you printed the hold down with PETG-CF. In this one you just said PETG. I assume the CF means carbon fiber. In your opinion (or based on your tests), is carbon fiber required?
Thanks,
?- Scott Hanna
Sorry, and thank you Google Drive for the hassle.? Attached is the 3D model STEP file. ?
If you do decide to print this, be sure you specify the necessary parameters to the slicer to get a part that is sturdy enough to deal with the clamping forces.? Specifically: ?0.20mm maximum layer heights, at least 6 layers top, bottom and perimeters, and 50 percent infill.? I also recommend printing with PETG filament rather than PLA.? I have not thoroughly tested this, so I recommend you do you own rigidity testing to ensure your print doesn¡¯t crush under clamping loads.
Clicking on that gives me a blank screen with a note that says, "No preview available. File is in owner's trash."
Edit: When I got my own message as an email the content of the link is there as an attachment.? It appears to be the entire sliding table with the clamp and not just the clamp.? It's a huge rendering.
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