Hi Michael:
?
This looks
like a great project. I note that the main thrust of your
post is about board product selection, which I can¡¯t help
you with as I¡¯m based in Australia. However, there are some
similarities to your project with a solid wood library
fit-out I did in 2016 and thought perhaps I could provide
some inspiration.
?
Some
feedback on your description:
?
Half inch
back
I would
increase this to a 3/4¡± back. Half inch does not allow for
reliable rebate + glue + screw from the case sides, nor does
it provide a ¡°life-time¡± robust back that will not bow,
warp, separate (etc.) from the cabinet back over time. It
looks clear that you will be installing your library units
permanently (reference to building a base onsite, plus the
ladder usually needs something that ain¡¯t moving), which
means you¡¯ll want to level the base and install the case
units plumb with a wall that will most certainly not be flat
or plumb itself. This means you¡¯ll have gaps (sometimes
largish gaps) behind a significant portion of your
installation. If the backs somehow delaminate from your case
sides, there is no scope whatsoever for rectifications. I
would not want to take such a risk with 1/2¡± material.
?
Adjustable
shelves
Adjustable
shelves are nice, but I would counsel against them for a
library of this size. Fixed shelving makes each case unit
much stronger, and the fact that you can nail/screw the back
into each shelf is a bonus. The library I did was only
2850mm high, so not quite as tall as your project but mine
had an aggregate width much wider than your 18¡¯. For a
library of this size, in my opinion, complete freedom to
arrange books with maximum flexibility is most desirable.
Yes you¡¯ll pack in more books if you size shelving exactly
for novels, and shelving for a reference collection, but I¡¯d
rather miss out on a little saving of space for the
flexibility of arranging books in whatever way you or the
client wants. I tried to counsel my client to have a very
large shelf at the bottom (350-400mm tall) but it was
rejected for a uniform 300mm spacing between all shelving.
I¡¯d be happy to share detailed plans with you offsite if
that is helpful.
?
Unit
widths
You don¡¯t
reference the width of your units, but I suspect they are
much wider than I would typically recommend. I have found
that even with a substantial stiffener, unsupported shelving
spans of more than 900mm always sag without steel
reinforcement. I have made dozens of bookcases over the
decades, from 1200mm, 900mm, 800mm, 700mm, and 600mm widths.
You probably have too and I don¡¯t mean to sh4t on your own
experiences. For bookcases which absolutely must have wider
shelves, I incorporate an upright which is housed into the
front of each shelf, directly behind the two doors. This
upright still allows books to stack on the shelves unbroken
(behind the upright), and said upright is invisible when the
doors are closed. This upright can be installed with fixed
or movable shelving. For the 2016 library, I settled on
600mm widths. This was narrower than the client wanted, but
the shelves exhibit minimal sag year after year. Something
to consider.
?
Unit
depths
Again, I
know you didn¡¯t ask, so forgive me for answering the unasked
questions (David B. knows I specialise in these sorts of
answers! LOL), but most designers (not necessarily you) make
bookcases which are too deep. Almost all books fit on a
200mm or 8¡± depth shelf. Yes, there are some that require
220mm or more, but these are fairly rare. Now most bookcases
are 300mm deep because the designer is working towards a
¡°one size fit all¡± solution, and also because most bookcases
are freestanding and need a wider (deeper) base. In your
case, with fixed units, you have more choice to reduce the
depth of your unit. 200mm would be radical. For my client, I
chose a unit depth of 250 and a shelf depth of 210mm (with a
20mm back) which was perfect (IMO). That said, your shelves
have doors (mine did not) so there is no scope for the odd
book ¡°sticking out¡±. In such a case, a 300mm deep unit might
be warranted, less 20mm for doors, less 20mm for backs, for
an overall shelf depth of 260mm.
?
Ladder
My library
also had a ladder and great care is needed to make sure
there is sufficient strength and space for a horizontal
sliding rail (unless your ladder is an independent A-frame)?
I can visualise a horizontal rail at the 2/3rds level (from
the floor), more or less aligned with the solid ¡°mezzanine¡±
shelf on the right of your rendering? I would be happy to
explore this further if relevant including pictures of my
bespoke ladder.
?
Assembling
units onsite
Looking at
your rendering, I see that you are making many units and
¡°stacking¡± them together. Definitely the right way to go.
But I would look very closely at how you plan to make the
installation look like a single unit or a single
installation. Very closely.
?
For example,
right now you have rendered horizontal face frames which are
full-width, with upright face frames captured between them.
I would strongly reconsider as you will have end-grain
butted up against end-grain, and it will very difficult to
get this many frames aligned to your satisfaction. The
render also shows a strongly horizontal emphasis ¨C which may
be exactly what you want? I would push you to consider
vertical elements, preferably full length as a way of tying
all the units together.
?
I made
individual units which were flanked by hollow (constructed)
columns, which might be more elaborate than you have time or
space for. But you should at least consider a full-length
panel to cover the ends of your unit so the entire upright
looks like one. (Don¡¯t forget to make it extra wide so you
can scribe it into the wall for a seamless look.) If you
take up this advice, you¡¯ll have a double upright on the far
left of your installation. That extra thickness can look
fantastic, and fit in perfectly with your internal uprights
(if you take up my option of full-length vertical elements
covering case sides).
?
Currently,
as you have rendered it ¨C you have a single upright on the
outer or left side of the installation, but double uprights
between each unit (since each unit has its own upright).
Instead: butt each case hard up against each other, and then
apply (during installation) a prefinished full-length
upright to cover the exposed edges. This will allow you to
have uniform vertical elements, that are say 36mm wide, at
the full left, and between units.
?
I used a
very large crown stapler and urethane glue to secure each
unit to each other. My units had machined rebates on the
front edge, read to receive the full-length vertical
elements. After installation, I glued and headless pinned
the vertical face frames for a seamless look.
?
If you like,
I¡¯d be happy to take this discussion offsite and share more
details. I have no vested interest whatsoever except to be
helpful. Take what is helpful and ditch the rest!
? Pictures to follow.
?
Before
?
?
After
?
?
Vertical
Upright Detail
?
?
Sequence
of shots showing the installation of units, crown staples,
and installation of uprights in machined rebates¡
?
?
?
?
?
Dr
David Luckensmeyer
?
Hi folks,
??? I'm about to embark on a project to build a series of
modular bookcases.? (To be clear, my projects move slow
and are for personal use . . . I may be working on this
into 2026.? Sigh).? The basic design is simple box out of
3/4" ply, with a 1/2" back.? Rabbets on the top and back,
dado for the bottom shelf.? There will be a face frame on
the front, with glass doors. The plan is adjustable
shelves.? I'm debating between sawtooth supports,
commercial supports, and something custom where I use my
ancient CNC machine to cut pockets that the shelf supports
will rest on.? The shelves will have a solid edging with a
lip to stiffen them, probably attached with a few
dominoes.
??? Here's a basic rendering:
??? For the interior units, I may just pocket screw the
face frame on.? For the end units I'll probably use
dominoes so there is nothing exposed.
??? These will stack to form a library wall that will be
12 feet tall and 18 feet wide.? I didn't bother to show
the toe-kick / base that will be built on site.? There
will be a library ladder that will allow access to the
upper units:
??? I've started looking at what material I want to use
for this.?? I'm based near Spokane, Washington.? My local
suppliers are able to get materials from Columbia, Murphy,
States, and Timber Products.? They can get materials from
other vendors as well, but these seem to the big ones.
??? I've used ApplyPly, Baltic Birch, and shop grade
panels in the past.? While I like the price of cheaper
imported panels, some shop grade birch I bought years ago
was put together with bondo (or something similar)
internally and destroyed some good cutters.? I'd rather by
better materials and not have to fight with them or damage
my cutters.
??? Here are my questions:
-
What kind of core would
you get for this application???
-
Should I stick with a
veneer core???
-
Is there an advantage
(or disadvantage) to the various hybrid cores?? (I'm
not sure I care whether the panels are dead flat,
and I'm generally suspicious of MDF)
-
If you've worked with
materials from any of these manufacturers, are there
materials that you would recommend, or specifically
avoid?
??? I would also welcome any general advise on the best
way to approach this project.
???
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
