This issue about the overhead support arm bracket has come up several times here. ?I¡¯ve pulled a tread from back in 2019 where a few of us noodled over the issue, and James Zhu posted photos of his installation. ?That thread is posted below. ?
Looking at the photos that Edward and James supplied, I don¡¯t understand why Felder hasn¡¯t corrected the bolt hole positions, but it¡¯s pretty clear that the right action here is to re-drill the bolt holes to match the bracket layout.
I would not settle for having the extension table deflected downward to get the bolting holes of the overhead saw guard to align - that defeats the purpose of the extension table. ?I recommend you ask Felder to come back and correct the situation and include photos (perhaps some of these in the thread) that clearly document the issues. ??
Hope this helps.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
Begin forwarded message:
Subject:?[felder-woodworking] KF700s Overhead Guard / Rip Table Installation [4 Attachments]
Date:?November 26, 2018 at 6:39:58 PM PST
Reply-To:?felder-woodworking@...My equipment finally made its way through the house and into my basement. Next challenge is getting it all set up and calibrated.?
I¡¯m going through the manual, reviewing all of the parts, and determining how it all goes together before I get going.?
First question relates to the sheet metal rip table (cutting extension 1250 in manual). I¡¯m a bit stumped on how the arms under the table get bolted to the machine chassis. There is a plate which goes into the arm, but the instructions do not state which way it¡¯s oriented (photo shows two options). They also omit how the bolt, washer, and nut are assembled (lower right of first photo). There also seems to be an 1/8¡± gap between the plate shown and machine chassis when the arm is mounted. Just doesn¡¯t seem right that the sheet metal edge of the arm should dig into the sheet metal chassis.?
Second question relates to the overhead guard. The bracket connecting the arm to the rip table has holes far larger than the included hardware. There also doesn¡¯t seem to be enough washers. Plus there are two extra silver screws, 4 nuts, and a large bolt+nut. I¡¯m not sure where these go.
Any thoughts?
Begin forwarded message:
Subject:?Re: [felder-woodworking] KF700s Overhead Guard / Rip Table Installation [2 Attachments]
Date:?November 26, 2018 at 7:44:01 PM PST
Edward,
I¡¯d kind of have to be there to see what screws make sense with which items, but here is my best guess as to what goes where:
I¡¯m pretty sure those grey notched plates secure the brackets to the side of the chassis with the four hex-head bolts/nuts (circled in red box). ? The plates go inside the wide end of the bracket, with the notches pointing up to support the bracket - slotting into cutouts in the brackets (could have that backwards). ?The threaded studs I¡¯m pretty sure are used to attach the sheet metal extension table (and level it) to the machine chassis and the ends of the brackets (green and blue). ?Not sure which size goes where - check the mounting holes. ? There will also be screws that attach the lip-side of the extension table to the edge of the cast iron top. ?It¡¯s also possible those studs (in green box) are for the rip fence bar running along the infeed side of the cast iron top as shown in Figure 5-12.
As for the L-bracket with the elongated holes, I believe that is used to attach the side of the overhead support arm to the side of the extension table. ? Here is a photo from another user posted some time ago about this, and he was having trouble getting the holes to align (never heard how that settled out):
My guess is that large bolt/nut is used to level the overhead support arm but that¡¯s total wild-ass-guess. ? My K975 and Kappa 400 have a single bolt like that to jack one end of the teeter-tottering support bracket to level it.
Second thoughts: ? Now that I look at this a bit more, and if you have the 49¡± rip capacity version, I think the bolts in the blue box are for attaching and leveling the far end of the sheet metal extension table to the brackets. ? ?The three bolts/washers at the bottom of your photo are most likely to attach the inside lip of the sheet metal extension table to the side of the cast iron top, and that the extension table is only secured where it attaches to the cast iron top at one end, and the far end of the brackets at the other (meaning the extension table does not attach directly to the machine chassis). ?The threaded studs in the green box are more likely for the rip fence bar to attach to the extension table front lip edge. ??
Don¡¯t you just love the detailed Felder directions - even IKEA takes precedence here. ??
David Best
Begin forwarded message:
Subject:?Re: [felder-woodworking] KF700s Overhead Guard / Rip Table Installation [6 Attachments]
Date:?November 26, 2018 at 8:07:13 PM PST
Edward,
I took a few pictures of my KF700, it was delivered with the steel extension table and saw guard installed since I ordered the commission service. The Felder tech guy told me he and another guy spent more than 3 hours to install the steel table and overhead saw guard.
Hopefully, the pictures will go through.
James
___________________________________________
Begin forwarded message:
Subject:?Re: [felder-woodworking] KF700s Overhead Guard / Rip Table Installation
Date:?November 26, 2018 at 9:07:32 PM PST
3 hours with two guys who hopefully have done this before seems about right.. I¡¯ll probably have two days into this before it¡¯s done.?
Your photos help explain the screws in the L bracket. Now I¡¯m left with two black M6x15 screws and four nuts to figure out.?
In your photo number 5460 (black stud with the nuts top and bottom)...where is that??
Hi John,
I am a new K700S owner myself and understand where you are. How to get from truck to house, slider onto machine, what blades to use all the Felder 101 stuff.? A lift cart is your best bet or adjustable roller stands. The slider has T slot grooves for bolt heads and you will need the slider parallel to these heads during the install sort of difficult to do for two guys. If you have the rail on/off switch the wire exits midway from the rail and drops into the machine you need to ensure that doesn't catch on anything too. Having a mechanical lift cart or roller you can go as slowly as you want mounting the slider rail.
Other 101 items - I bought leveling feet from Amazon and in my shop I have center drains so a good pitch to the floor. When I installed the feet I left the bolt on all four, I should have removed the bolts from the far end of the feet that way when I needed to adjust my saw up I would not have to account for the bolt height + leveling height. Not a big deal.? I bought a Starrett precision level second hand and it is superior to any other method of leveling. I used a second level and in a few minutes had the machine perfect.
For your overarm dust collection - I went with the larger overarm you will need some zip ties or other method to secure the dust hose to the arm. I bought my hose from Felder which arrived in one long piece but the 120mm dust port (main) hose arrived in 1 meter sections instead of one long piece. Head scratcher there not sure what happened. A bracket that attaches the overarm to table did not line up during my install it was way off couldn't see the bolt holes. Felder guys tweaked that to fit but in turn my table dips on that side where they lowered it which I did not notice at the time. I will likely back that out and remove that bracket or drill some new holes.
Another tip - Use every feature of your saw while your tech is onsite. Move your outrigger fence, rip fence, blade height up/down, have all accessories mounted. Think of this as a final checkout not of their work but of your machine. Everything should be smooth and if you are like me new to sliders there is a lot more going on than unboxing a sawstop that is ready to run.
David P. Best