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Re: zci for k940


 

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Cliff, the only 3d printers I have used are a zpinter which is a powder based printer, form3 and Markforged. Our plant in Luxembourg has a metal 3d printer and I have handled the parts and can tell you they are a bit rough and need post processing to finish them off nice, I don¡¯t know the cost per part of that machine (we don¡¯t really care in prod dev) but I can tell you the cost of that machine and the special room that needed to be built was well over 3 mil, so that that would eliminate it from the mix from being an ?affordable solution.?

The Markforged can print very strong (stronger than metal in some cases) and accurate parts, I would consider it for a replacement for the metal (alum) section for the k940, Kappa , the parts I printed on the Markforged ?and showed in this thread were printed in what i will call draft mode meaning the settings in the slicing software were set to print quick with limited material and resolution even with that I think (and I am guessing) the material cost for the three parts was around $70.?



?the Markforged?

Regards, Mark



On Jan 21, 2021, at 2:29 PM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:

?

I should think? that some enterprising? person? would long ago? have? started churning out 3-d printer versions of these things.

My Hammer? ZCI iused to be a real PITA? to make but I figured? out how to produce them? more efficiently with? fixturing? on the router table.? Now that I'm running a full size vertical knee mill I'll prolly take the job to the milling machine and speed it up even more.

There's a guy who sells the ZCI for hammer machines for? almost $70,? not a price I'd pay.??


On 1/19/21 11:25 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?

David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.

So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)

The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?

So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...

??










Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section?




Regards, Mark


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