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Mark,

That is so cool, thanks for sharing. BTW, does your K940 maintain rip fence measurement when blade is tilted? My KF does but it was a surprised to learn that it did not on K975 - only found out after purchase.

I plan to get into modeling once this pandemic is over. Last summer I tumbled onto a little known detail that, in Ohio, residents over 60 (IIRC the exact age) can attend/audit classes in state institutions for free. I checked and Indiana has the same policy. So i called our vocational school, Ivy Tech, and they confirmed. Tuition is waved but there could still be other costs like computer/lab use. I plan to take 3D modeling and welding.

Imran

On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:19 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:

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Hey Imran, looks like I left out some key details, there are so many for such a simple thing really.?

The white blob is silicone, looks like they filled most of the internal pockets of the factory section with silicone, to hold it in place and to diffuse the light. The LED’s don’t even line up with the holes. The gray parts are the factory supplied parts.

Yes the first step was to redraw/ model the exact parts that felder supplied to their dimensions, i then extruded down about 8mm for the wood insert and add the tap locations for the bolts to hole the wood insert. At that point i had to extrude pockets on the backside for the LED wiring and there is a little metal dust shield that required space relived, there are some other minor tweaks that were required to make it work.?

When I bolted on the 3d printed part it actually lined up dead flush with the cast, I would prefer a little adjustment so I had to drill out the washer of the bolt that holds the part onto the cast by .5 mm and that dust shield, had to file a flat on the washer so the part could have a little room to drop below the table if needed.?

I was resisting and really wanted to just buy it so I could get back to building furniture but couldn’t take the random flying pieces of wood anymore, One of the big drawbacks of a zci for me is that you have to remove it for angle cuts but yet in another plus of moving up to the k940 over the k700 is that you don’t have to remove it to change the angle, at least with a 300mm blade which is what I use.?

Felder should offer it but I think it would be pretty costly, they could recut the mold for the Injection molded parts but the parts they are getting out now (at least the ones on my machine) are pretty low quality, lots of shrinkage probably due to injecting too fast, cooling to fast I doubt they did a a flow analysis- could probably improve the part with scientific molding but even then plastic isn’t really the right material to base a ZCI off of for this machine config, could be done but metal as the base would be better.?

Here are some additional screen shots for clarification.

Here is the dust shield with the clipped washers?

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Regards, Mark

On Jan 20, 2021, at 7:29 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

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Looks Awesome. What is the white blob looking thing at the end of LED strip?

So looks like you are recreating what felder supplies. Is this 1st step to make ZCI?

I need one terribly for K975. I bought 2 for KF700 and never installed them. It was not bad because I do not have scoring. I think scoring just exacerbates the situation and cutoffs are violent. IMHO, OEM should consider ZCI implementation when designing the saw.

Imran

On Jan 19, 2021, at 11:27 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:

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So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn’t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?

David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn’t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.

So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)

The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?

So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...

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Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section?

Regards, Mark

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