Hi Bird,

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With your upcoming build, you're planning on the I-beam for the jamb, right?

Actually jambs and header are I-beams. Jamb is bolted to the block in foundation below and then bolted to the I beam header above. Cavities of i-beam are filled with 2x material. A bolt captures 2x on each side of the beam web. I built reinforced boxes for each side. And these are lagged into the 2x in cavities. Here is a pic. I have not yet put ply on the inside of the side boxes. Here is a pic of inside and outside of door frame with temp closing of the rough opening.

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You don't think something like an LVL lagged into the framing will be stable enough?

I am no expert to lend advise. The guy who built this for me did structural steel fabrication so I figured this is likely 4x of what I really need J I believe the slight twist that I have in the door jambs of my shop is due to the slip between individual 2xs that make up the jamb. These were nailed together and then in top an bottom plate. I believe this allows for a small movement between faces so each 2x twists slightly. If these were glued together into a 3.5X6” or 3.5”x7.5” (do not remember how many 2x are there anymore) monolithic beam I do not think it would twist between plates. Just my thought. So LVL of appropriate size likely will be fine but you really need to ask an expert. I know truss suppliers provide engineering support for truss design; if they sell LVLs they may be able to figure it out for you. I would imagine that you might still need a steel bracket to connect LVL header to LVL jambs.

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How will you install the beam?
Obviously it is already installed. Here is a pic of how it was done. First, I do not recommend it because it likely violates many safety rules. The vertical beams have plates welded to the bottom. These needed to be brought on top of the foundation blocks that were 4” above concrete floor. I blocked the plates up, as the frame laid on the floor, so that their top edge was above block’s top. So when the frame was raised the plate will be on top of the block. Yellow truck had a come-along attached between truck and rope. This allowed us to raise the frame to an angle that ensured it won’t go over. Then I used the come-along to get the frame all the way up while red truck ensured that it does not go over.

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In your first picture, those look like ball bearing hinges. Are the ones on your shop door also ball bearing style?

The first pic hinge only has a bearing on bottom (1 per hinge) and the bearing is is flat. Here is a close up. This door has only been up a yr.

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Shop door hinges have top and bottom hinge – see pic below.

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These bearings have a flange so they sit in the pintle opening of the strap hinge. I could not find replacement for these bearings.

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I love the look of strap hinges but they certainly are not as reliable/durable as alternatives. They also force the door exterior to be flush with trim unless you can find some with an offset. I would recommend exploring that if the door is going to be out in the open as opposed to under a porch. If you cannot find a hinge that allows the door to be slightly recessed then I would explore the top trim to be proud of the side trim so the rain has a chance to fall in front of the door as opposed to top of it. I do have a weather strip on top but it takes careful install to have even gaps.

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Imran

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