Re: Tannewitz Brake Questions
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Did some research.? There are two types of electric brakes, magnetic ones where an electro magnet energizes, grabs the hub area of the drum and pulls
a lever to activate the brake.? I need to see if I can buy a set that would work with the drums which are integral to the wheels.? If so this is a cheap way to go.? Less than $100 for the brake module and brake shoes etc.? But risk it won¡¯t work with the 1967
AMC brake drum integrated into the wheel.
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The second option is slick but more expensive.? This is an electric-hydraulic brake actuator.? Its basically a master cylinder and solenoid integrated
into one package.? The cheapest I found new would be $540 on ebay plus new brake shoes and wheel cylinder etc for the AMC brakes.
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Either option also requires a 20A 12V power source.? The second option would for sure work but it¡¯s about $500 more than the first.
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Is having a brake on the top wheel worth $600-700?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Joe Jensen
Sent: Tuesday, November 3, 2020 2:28 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz Brake Questions
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Great idea Brian, love it
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Go to a trailer supply house, they have all sorts of solenoid actuated brakes, electric and hydraulic.
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The solenoid that operated the hydraulic master cylinder was a Cutler Hammer.? I found that Cutler Hammer makes solenoids that may work.? The cheapest
one only pulls 0.55lbs and its $699 cheapest online.? Cutler Hammer makes them up to 12.4 lbs and that one is $1350.
When I worked in the wire biz we had drawing machines with 50 hp motors with nice disc brakes I expect pretty pricy
My Oliver is like Dave K?
You might look at Centauro new machines or Zimerman see how they handle it.
My best advice is don¡¯t be on the side of the machine when it¡¯s running.
Designing and building for 50 years
I love the idea of the upper brake. I called and spoke with Tannewitz and they said the hydraulic system was nothing but a headache. ?He also said they
used a bunch of different setups over the years.? My saw is direct drive with the drum integrated in the wheel but no brake hardware for that drum.? The upper wheel has the integrated drum and the brakes were all there.? Even the rear plate that holds the
drum brakes and wheel cylinder is from a car. ?Apparently the brake parts are all AMC for a Jeep.? ?
Near as I can tell this is how it worked.
With power off, a spring pulled on the master cylinder shaft to keep the brakes applied.
Power on the machine and a large electrical solenoid would energize and take pressure off the master cylinder.
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When pressing the stop button the solenoid would lose power and the brakes would be applied.
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Press the foot brake lever, which pulls a cable which pulls a lever to press the stop button, now acts like you press stop.
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If a blade is too loose a microswitch opens and activates the stop circuit.
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If a blade brakes, the tension drops opening a different microswitch activating the stop circuit
On my saw the hydraulic system was dry with no fluid, (abandoned) and a modern electronic brake setup like Tannewitz uses today was fitted.? While I
would like to have the upper brake the large electrical solenoid for the master cylinder looks to be burned up.? It might be possible to find a replacement which would let me have the brake on the upper wheel.? I will see but not hopeful.
Joe, I believe the purpose of the upper brake was to only activate when tension was released quickly as when the blade breaks.? The top wheel locks immediately to keep the blade from chewing up everything.?
The bottom brake activates manually with a foot pedal on my Oliver so your Tanny might be different.? The upper safety brake was fairly standard on large old saws.? Dave
I¡¯ve started disassembly and the brakes apparently changed a lot over the years . On my machine both wheels have brake drums integrated but the lower
had no brakes.? There is a heavy steel plate that bolts to the motor that has one broken off bolt and a slot crudely cut with a torch.? It¡¯s not clear that drum brakes ever mounted to that plate.? I will remove the upper brakes and the master cylinder.
What ever is the simplistic and cheapest I would avoid using a brake Justin case of emergency.
In larger machines bigger hp I would use disc brakes .
My oliver has an over ride that cuts the motor if the blade brakes than using the manual rub brake.
My best advise is don¡¯t stand to the right of the blade so your not buy when blade breaks.
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
?My saw serial number says it was built in 1967 and it was built with hydraulic brakes.? At some point it was converted to the electronic brake setup Tannewitz uses now. I have not torn anything down yet, still don't have it off the pallet.?
But it looks like the solenoid that drives the master cylinder for the brakes may be fried.??
I had intended to restore it including the brakes but this will be a saw I intend to use and I assume the electronic brake is a better system than the car brake setup. Does anyone have experience?
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Joe Jensen