?

For the past few months, I had a problem with the engine shutting off
if I pushed it much past
70 mph for an extended time in the first 5 miles after a cold start. I
could put it in neutral and restart, it would fire right up and I could
continue on. I checked everything I could think of and could not
figure it out. It has a Pertronix ignition but everything appeared to
be in working order. So I just kept it under 70 for the first few miles
and things where going fine until returning home one day it did it
again and I was not pushing it that hard. I then hit a bump and it
shut off momentarily and refired on its own..

I realized I needed to get this problem resolved or I could end up at
the side of the road one day. I checked everything for loose
connections again and found no problems. When I upgraded to the ignitor
II and Flame Thrower II coil about 8 years ago, Pertronix Customer
Service recommended I install a ballast resistor to power the Flame
Thrower II coil (the previous owner removed the resistor wire). The
installation instruction I had did not instruct to do that but I did as
advised. I had been running it that way for many years without any
problem but I began to suspect the ballast resistor was going bad. I
called Pertronix again to see if it was okay to bypass the ballast
resistor to get the full 12 V to the coil. This time I was told it is
suppose to have 12 V to operate optimally. They did not understand why
I was advised to use a ballast resistor.

I bypassed the ballast resistor and during at least trip of pushing it
at 80 and over showed no problem what so ever. It seems that something
internally in the ballast resistor is failing. My next step was going
to be putting points back in it to make sure the Pertronix ignition
wasn't faulty. I sure am glad I didn't have to do that because I
really like the Pertronix ignition.

Hopefully the problem will not come back and I am fair(?? ly confident
that it will not.

For the past few months, I had a problem with the engine shutting off if I pushed it much past 70 mph for an extended time in the first 5 miles after a cold start.? I could put it in neutral and restart, it would fire right up and I could continue on.? I checked everything I could think of and could not figure it out.? It has a Pertronix ignition but everything appeared to be in working order. So I just kept it under 70 for the first few miles and things where going fine until returning home one day it did it again and I was not pushing it that hard.? I then hit a bump and it shut off momentarily and refired on its own.. ?

I realized I needed to get this problem resolved or I could end up at the side of the road one day.? I checked everything for loose connections again and found no problems. When I upgraded to the ignitor II and Flame Thrower II coil about 8 years ago, Pertronix Customer Service recommended I install a ballast resistor to power the Flame Thrower II coil (the previous owner removed the resistor wire).? The installation instruction I had did not instruct to do that but I did as advised.? I had been running it that way for many years without any problem but I began to suspect the ballast resistor was going bad.? I called Pertronix again to see if it was okay to bypass the ballast resistor to get the full 12 V to the coil.? This time I was told it is suppose to have 12 V to operate optimally.? They did not understand why I was advised to use a ballast resistor. ?

I bypassed the ballast resistor and during at least trip of pushing it at 80 and over showed no problem what so ever.? It seems that something internally in the ballast resistor is failing.? My next step was going to be putting points back in it to make sure the Pertronix ignition wasn't faulty.? I sure am glad I didn't have to do that because I really like the Pertronix ignition.

Hopefully the problem will not come back and I am fairly confident that it will not.


Gary in SoCal

?

Thanks Gary. I've heard good things about pertronex but, I also heard it's a good idea to keep a set of points and condenser in you glove box, just in case it decides to call it quits.
Greg in N.O.
--
Sent from myMail for Android

Thursday, 07 May 2020, 04:37PM -05:00 from Gary Wittman gary.wittman@...:

For the past few months, I had a problem with the engine shutting off if I pushed it much past 70 mph for an extended time in the first 5 miles after a cold start.? I could put it in neutral and restart, it would fire right up and I could continue on.? I checked everything I could think of and could not figure it out.? It has a Pertronix ignition but everything appeared to be in working order. So I just kept it under 70 for the first few miles and things where going fine until returning home one day it did it again and I was not pushing it that hard.? I then hit a bump and it shut off momentarily and refired on its own.. ?

I realized I needed to get this problem resolved or I could end up at the side of the road one day.? I checked everything for loose connections again and found no problems. When I upgraded to the ignitor II and Flame Thrower II coil about 8 years ago, Pertronix Customer Service recommended I install a ballast resistor to power the Flame Thrower II coil (the previous owner removed the resistor wire).? The installation instruction I had did not instruct to do that but I did as advised.? I had been running it that way for many years without any problem but I began to suspect the ballast resistor was going bad.? I called Pertronix again to see if it was okay to bypass the ballast resistor to get the full 12 V to the coil.? This time I was told it is suppose to have 12 V to operate optimally.? They did not understand why I was advised to use a ballast resistor. ?

I bypassed the ballast resistor and during at least trip of pushing it at 80 and over showed no problem what so ever.? It seems that something internally in the ballast resistor is failing.? My next step was going to be putting points back in it to make sure the Pertronix ignition wasn't faulty.? I sure am glad I didn't have to do that because I really like the Pertronix ignition.

Hopefully the problem will not come back and I am fairly confident that it will not.


Gary in SoCal

For the past few months, I had a problem with the engine shutting off if I pushed it much past 70 mph for an extended time in the first 5 miles after a cold start.? I could put it in neutral and restart, it would fire right up and I could continue on.? I checked everything I could think of and could not figure it out.? It has a Pertronix ignition but everything appeared to be in working order. So I just kept it under 70 for the first few miles and things where going fine until returning home one day it did it again and I was not pushing it that hard.? I then hit a bump and it shut off momentarily and refired on its own.. ?

I realized I needed to get this problem resolved or I could end up at the side of the road one day.? I checked everything for loose connections again and found no problems. When I upgraded to the ignitor II and Flame Thrower II coil about 8 years ago, Pertronix Customer Service recommended I install a ballast resistor to power the Flame Thrower II coil (the previous owner removed the resistor wire).? The installation instruction I had did not instruct to do that but I did as advised.? I had been running it that way for many years without any problem but I began to suspect the ballast resistor was going bad.? I called Pertronix again to see if it was okay to bypass the ballast resistor to get the full 12 V to the coil.? This time I was told it is suppose to have 12 V to operate optimally.? They did not understand why I was advised to use a ballast resistor. ?

I bypassed the ballast resistor and during at least trip of pushing it at 80 and over showed no problem what so ever.? It seems that something internally in the ballast resistor is failing.? My next step was going to be putting points back in it to make sure the Pertronix ignition wasn't faulty.? I sure am glad I didn't have to do that because I really like the Pertronix ignition.

Hopefully the problem will not come back and I am fairly confident that it will not.


Gary in SoCal

On Tue, Apr 21, 2020 at 2:07 PM, Bob Duncan via groups.io

<breathe_ezr@...> wrote:

Dave,

If you need a radiator support bracket, I have one.? I don't think that was on your list, if it is, I've got you covered.

Bob in PA

On Sunday, April 12, 2020, 11:41:16 AM EDT, Dave Buchanan via groups.io <nytrkrdave@...> wrote:

OK I will check that. But I have never gone to the forums. Im not even sure how to do that right now.?

I bought a 68 Fastback from Jerry G. that was from Texas/Oklahoma as a parts car several years ago. When all was said and done the firewall/toeboard area on that car is also non useable due to rust. So I'm? thinking that this is the area where the bad rust starts and is not visable until the car is disassembled to that point. I dont need the dash, fenders, hood, grille, shock towers, splash shields, frame sections or any of that stuff. just the deep initial parts that make up the core. Dave Buchanan

On Sunday, April 12, 2020, 10:22:24 AM EDT, Linc <linc@...> wrote:

Hello Dave,

There is another Dave local to me that is parting out a Montego right now, check

the FCA forums and ask him about the condition of it. Last name Bearlin or something

like that.

I also have a 68 convertible from California that I was going to build, but changed

my mind. It isn't a rust free car, but isn't terrible. I have not decided what to do with it

yet, but if all else fails we can talk about it.

-- 

============================================================ I am Linc..... What more could you possibly need to know? ============================================================

On Sun, 2020-04-12 at 13:34 +0000, Dave Buchanan via groups.io wrote:

The place where I am getting all of my work done on my Cobra called me and told me that I need a front clip for my car. I have way too much in to this to quit now. He has a new complete floor, new full quarters, trunk pan etc for it and ready to go. My new doors and fenders have been sent to the blasters and the doors have been put on. But now he gets to work on the firewall and toeboard area and it is all falling apart. My frame rails and shock towers are ok but the firewall area and radiator support are junk. It would be easier to buy a good front clip and install that. That is, if I can find a rust free one. Does anyone know of someone that would have a rust free clip? The last stuff I bought at desert valley turned out to be non useable by the time it came to use them so Im not sure I trust their word anymore. AMD says they have firewalls but they arent into production. When I waited for my quarters to be made which they were advertising a being ready in six months, took a year and a half. They are saying the same about the firewall now. Six months. So I dont know. If I could only find a rust free clip it would solve this.69 Cobra Fastback. I would imagine that 68-69 Torino, Fairlane, and some Mercury counterparts would be acceptable.Mine is a fastback but I'm sure that doesn't matter. I'm willing to but a whole car if need be. Dave Buchanan

On Tue, Apr 21, 2020 at 2:07 PM, Bob Duncan via groups.io

<breathe_ezr@...> wrote:

Dave,

If you need a radiator support bracket, I have one.? I don't think that was on your list, if it is, I've got you covered.

Bob in PA

On Sunday, April 12, 2020, 11:41:16 AM EDT, Dave Buchanan via groups.io <nytrkrdave@...> wrote:

OK I will check that. But I have never gone to the forums. Im not even sure how to do that right now.?

I bought a 68 Fastback from Jerry G. that was from Texas/Oklahoma as a parts car several years ago. When all was said and done the firewall/toeboard area on that car is also non useable due to rust. So I'm? thinking that this is the area where the bad rust starts and is not visable until the car is disassembled to that point. I dont need the dash, fenders, hood, grille, shock towers, splash shields, frame sections or any of that stuff. just the deep initial parts that make up the core. Dave Buchanan

On Sunday, April 12, 2020, 10:22:24 AM EDT, Linc <linc@...> wrote:

Hello Dave,

There is another Dave local to me that is parting out a Montego right now, check

the FCA forums and ask him about the condition of it. Last name Bearlin or something

like that.

I also have a 68 convertible from California that I was going to build, but changed

my mind. It isn't a rust free car, but isn't terrible. I have not decided what to do with it

yet, but if all else fails we can talk about it.

-- 

============================================================ I am Linc..... What more could you possibly need to know? ============================================================

On Sun, 2020-04-12 at 13:34 +0000, Dave Buchanan via groups.io wrote:

The place where I am getting all of my work done on my Cobra called me and told me that I need a front clip for my car. I have way too much in to this to quit now. He has a new complete floor, new full quarters, trunk pan etc for it and ready to go. My new doors and fenders have been sent to the blasters and the doors have been put on. But now he gets to work on the firewall and toeboard area and it is all falling apart. My frame rails and shock towers are ok but the firewall area and radiator support are junk. It would be easier to buy a good front clip and install that. That is, if I can find a rust free one. Does anyone know of someone that would have a rust free clip? The last stuff I bought at desert valley turned out to be non useable by the time it came to use them so Im not sure I trust their word anymore. AMD says they have firewalls but they arent into production. When I waited for my quarters to be made which they were advertising a being ready in six months, took a year and a half. They are saying the same about the firewall now. Six months. So I dont know. If I could only find a rust free clip it would solve this.69 Cobra Fastback. I would imagine that 68-69 Torino, Fairlane, and some Mercury counterparts would be acceptable.Mine is a fastback but I'm sure that doesn't matter. I'm willing to but a whole car if need be. Dave Buchanan

On Mon, Apr 13, 2020 at 3:27 PM, Ted

<tedlupu@...> wrote:

DAVE: are you on Facebook at all? one guy is selling a 68 cyclone f.b. roller in Ramona Cal. some pictures 559-906-2677 also another guy is parting out a 68 Ranchero over 20 pictures from Colorado Springs CO. his name is FORD MAC on the 68-69 Fairlane/Torino/Ranchero/Cyclone group. hope this helps. Good Luck and everybody stay safe.

The place where I am getting all of my work done on my Cobra called me and told me that I need a front clip for my car. I have way too much in to this to quit now. He has a new complete floor, new full quarters, trunk pan etc for it and ready to go. My new doors and fenders have been sent to the blasters and the doors have been put on. But now he gets to work on the firewall and toeboard area and it is all falling apart. My frame rails and shock towers are ok but the firewall area and radiator support are junk. It would be easier to buy a good front clip and install that. That is, if I can find a rust free one. Does anyone know of someone that would have a rust free clip? The last stuff I bought at desert valley turned out to be non useable by the time it came to use them so Im not sure I trust their word anymore. AMD says they have firewalls but they arent into production. When I waited for my quarters to be made which they were advertising a being ready in six months, took a year and a half. They are saying the same about the firewall now. Six months. So I dont know. If I could only find a rust free clip it would solve this.69 Cobra Fastback. I would imagine that 68-69 Torino, Fairlane, and some Mercury counterparts would be acceptable.Mine is a fastback but I'm sure that doesn't matter. I'm willing to but a whole car if need be. Dave Buchanan

?

I wanted to give another update on my new fuel sending unit. Even
though the gage read close to what I wanted with the tank full and 5
gallons in the tank, I found it was not very linear. It would drop
down fast initially and then slow down after 3/8 tank or so. I was
not comfortable with that, so I decided to take my old sending unit
apart to see what was going on in there.

I found the metal strip that slides across the wire winding was worn
through and the end was just barely hanging on. I removed the
hanging piece and bent the metal strip so it would contact in a
different area. I then made sure it had pressure against the wire
windings. I tested the ohm readout and it functioned very smooth
and transitioned through the ohm range very uniform. I had tested
the repaired float and filter by soaking in gasoline for a
week. They both passed but I did not like the looks of the
filter. I figured out how to remove the filters from both the old
and new sending units and swapped them. I thought about swapping
the floats but decided to try the old float first, at least for a while.

With the gasoline drained from the tank I installed the old sending
unit and was getting a reading over E on the fuel gage. I adjusted
the float position by bending the float arm until I could get a
reading of slightly below E. I then tightened the sending unit lock
ring and put in 5 gallons of gas. The gage read just below 1/4. I
then added another 2 gallons and got a gage reading of just over
1/4. When I filled it up the gage read slightly over F, which is
what I am used to seeing. After driving about 10 miles the gage was
on F. I think it should continue to work well.

I will continue to observe the gage reading when the tank is full to
determine if the float is soaking up fuel. I can always swap the
float from the new sending unit if needed.

I am just happy I didn’t bore you all with details.? Being a scientist, I can tend to do that.? Fortunately, we all have similar interests.?

?

As to a new career, I am still attempting to retire from my current one.? I have got it down to 3 days a week so far.

?

Gary in SoCal

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Steve W
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 7:21 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [fairlaneregistry] Fuel level sensor

?

Another email I'll save for reference. Thank you?for the great report.

?

Steve

?

---

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Gary Wittman <gary.wittman@...>
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 3:14 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [fairlaneregistry] Fuel level sensor

?

I wanted to give another update on my new fuel sending unit.? Even though the gage read close to what I wanted with the tank full and 5 gallons in the tank, I found it was not very linear.? It would drop down fast initially and then slow down after 3/8 tank or so.? I was not comfortable with that, so I decided to take my old sending unit apart to see what was going on in there.

I found the metal strip that slides across the wire winding was worn through and the end was just barely hanging on. I removed the hanging piece and bent the metal strip so it would contact in a different area.? I then made sure it had pressure against the wire windings.? I tested the ohm readout and it functioned very smooth and transitioned through the ohm range very uniform.? I had tested the repaired float and filter by soaking in gasoline for a week.? They both passed but I did not like the looks of the filter.? I figured out how to remove the filters from both the old and new sending units and swapped them.? I thought about swapping the floats but decided to try the old float first, at least for a while.

With the gasoline drained from the tank I installed the old sending unit and was getting a reading over E on the fuel gage.? I adjusted the float position by bending the float arm until I could get a reading of slightly below E.? I then tightened the sending unit lock ring and put in 5 gallons of gas.? The gage read just below 1/4.? I then added another 2 gallons and got a gage reading of just over 1/4.? When I filled it up the gage read slightly over F, which is what I am used to seeing.? After driving about 10 miles the gage was on F.? I think it should continue to work well. ?

I will continue to observe the gage reading when the tank is full to determine if the float is soaking up fuel.? I can always swap the float from the new sending unit if needed.