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Re: 428 CJ 735 cfm carburetor


 

Gary you could try increasing the amount (and or rate) of gas the accelerator pump supplies to see IF that helps or fixes the burble/hesitation. Try one step higher on the output of the accelerator pump. If that sort of helps then try yet another one step up (for a total of 2 steps higher than where you are). But IF just the 1 step higher fixes it, leave it there.

Next I vaugely remember different cams available for adjusting the linkage on some Holleys.

Lastly, look into different Power Valve values, it has been too long since I read up on what part of the range these help in. I do know Holley offers different values of power valves. The interesting thing is, to my knowledge Ford never offered different Power Valves for their 2100 & 4100 Autolite carbs. BUT as an FYI, Holley Power Valves will fit the 2100 / 4100 Autolite carbs.

As for your total advance, you are doing good. Now to get it to hook up off the line, LOL.

David from WNY

On Saturday, June 18, 2022, 07:51:52 PM EDT, Gary Wittman via groups.io <gary.wittman@...> wrote:






Dave,
The accelerator pump is working properly.? What I am finding is, it is not transitioning very well off of the idle circuit.?? As it is coming off the idle circuit, there is a slight burble from the engine and then it clears and runs smooth.? I am not sure what to do about it but I will keep searching for a resolution.???Otherwise,?I have it running pretty well now. In fact it is running stronger than ever at WOT.? Traction has become more of a issue there.
I am up to 43 degrees at full advance now without any detonation.? That is with 91 octane pump fuel.? I normally add some race fuel to bump up the octane a little and I can really tell the difference in the performance improvement.
It is drive-able for now so I can enjoy driving it.? I just need to do some more research on how the idle circuit transitions.? One thing that is not right is; I still get vacuum on the ported vacuum at idle.? I am told there should be no vacuum at idle on the carburetor vacuum port.
Gary in SoCal






On Tuesday, June 14, 2022, 03:39:28 PM PDT, D. Hadley via groups.io <dhadley390@...> wrote:





Gary that is good to hear. I forgot to mention that IF you are still getting hesitation off the line to check and adjust as needed the accelerator pump on the carb.

As for the crimpted vacuum canisters not being rebuildable, they CAN be rebuilt most of the time. The shops that rebuild them have special tools to uncrimp them so they can be taken apart and rebuilt. They then recrimp them. Years ago I had asked one of the shops IF they could rebuild the vacuum diverter water valves for the AC units on our cars (this was for my 68 Fairlane 500 4 door with factory AC, Mine has the rarer dual vacuum valves mounted side by side). The person I spoke wih said they could also rebuild those, and they are crimped.

So IF waranted, say like for anything from cost, availability to keeping everything all original as it left the factory they can be rebuilt. In your case seeing as it wasn't original and new replacements are available for a reasonable price it wouldn't be cost or time efective and thus not waranted to rebuild it.

Hope this helps.

David from WNY
On Wednesday, June 1, 2022, 10:20:37 PM EDT, Gary Wittman via groups.io <gary.wittman@...> wrote:

Dave, I ordered a new vacuum advance unit from Rock Auto.? It looks just like my old one but shiny. I have already installed it and it made a big difference.? Getting the coverage on the transition slot in the carburetor set correctly and a properly working vacuum advance unit seemed to be all it needed.
My old vacuum advance was not the original and not rebuild-able.? The new unit was very reasonable in cost and is also not rebuild-able.
On Tuesday, May 31, 2022, 09:19:13 AM PDT, D. Hadley via groups.io <dhadley390@...> wrote:

Gary, I see that you said there is a vacuum leak in the vacuum advance canister. You have a couple options.

1) Buy a new vacuum advance canister from your local auto parts store. (Which you may want to do anyways. It would be a goodd suggestion.

2) IF the vacuum advance canister is original I suggest you get it rebuilt and restored. (Yes there are places that do this)


David from WNY On Friday, May 27, 2022, 11:20:57 AM EDT, Gary Wittman via groups.io <gary.wittman@...> wrote:

Lloyd,? I finally got my distributor out and was able to get a proper measurement on the end play.? My crude measurement at the top was off by a lot.? The actual correct measurement showed it to be .023".? To get it down to .015", it would take a very thin .008" shim.? I think that is too thin to mess with and since the end play is very near the low end of the factory spec. I will just leave it.
I think your recommendation was base on my erroneous measurement of .045".
Gary in SoCal

On Wednesday, May 25, 2022, 12:44:41 PM PDT, Chris Scheers <chris@...> wrote:

Thank you Marty.

I did not know of that distinction.

I had heard fuzzy stories of Autolite selling Mopar parts in the 50s.



At 11:42 AM 5/25/2022, Marty Burke via groups.io wrote:

Ford owned Autolite? (bought it in 1961)but the government made them
sell it off because of anti trust laws. This was done in 1970 and
the Motorcraft division was started and is a division of Ford as
opposed to a independent corporation solely owned by Ford
Autolite has been sold a couple of times since then and is now part
of the Fram group
Marty
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