Gary,
I'm glad things are working out for you.
I highly recommend the Holley book. Peterson Publishing?
It covers carbs of all types as a general educational background.
When I did the 735 of my CJ, I found the info in that book to be
most educational.
I really was interested in the effect(s), of different air cleaner
bases.
To that end I had a tach hooked up, CJ up to operating temperature,
check revs,
put huge air cleaner base on the carb, no filter, just the base, the
idle revs went UP.
It's all about air flow.
I took the list number from the front of the air horn on the carb
and ordered a Holley
kit for it. Well, wow, what nice gaskets, you could use them 2 or 3
times during a
tweeking process. I also got the set of vacuum secondary springs.
They are color
coded and go from soft to hard.
A soft spring will have your secondaries activating early after you
have floored it.
A harder spring will wail a while before the secondaries are allowed
to start opening.
What fun dialing it in. The vacuum pot will come off the carb while
leaving the carb, "in situ".
The 1969 Shop Manual also covers the carb, but, the Holley book is
almost a must INMHO.
Cheerio,
Pete from the Loops
.
On 2022-05-17 4:36 p.m., Gary Wittman
via groups.io wrote:
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Well my drive went great.? It
is idling better than it ever has since I bought it in 2005.?
It is pulling strong too.? I may have advanced the timing a
little too much.? When I take off easy from a stop. it moves
but feels like it hesitates a little before accelerating.? I
will play with the timing a little to see if I can fixe
that.??
The engine did like the extra
timing on WOT.? The rear tires were trying to break loose all
the way through first gear, and that was after I got up to
about 20 mph before flooring it.
Gary in SoCal
I took the carb off and disassemble the
front bowl and metering block.? I found the baffle
for the vent was not installed properly.? Then I
checked out the primary transition slot and found it
was not set right.? I set the exposed portion of the
slot with the butterflies in idle position to what
is called square (height = width).? I then blew out
all the passages with carb cleaner and air. Then
reassemble everything making sure the vent baffle
was correct.? I had to adjust the idle position of
the secondary carb to compensate for closing down
the primary to get the transition slot adjusted.
I cranked the starter to fill up the
bowls and checked the fuel level again.? It was
right were it should be. I then set the choke with a
couple pumps of the accelerator pedal.? It fired
right up and I waited to see what happened as it
warmed up..It did start to get rough as it warmed
up, but I adjusted the idle needles and advanced the
timing a little.? It now idles at 800 rpm very well.
Unfortunately, 800 rpm idle is too slow
because when I put it in gear the rpm drops too
much.? When I was doing some research on the
Internet I discovered something about Holley carbs I
never knew.? It is advised to adjust the primary
throttle stop screw to set the adjustment for the
transition slot and not to use it for adjusting
idle.? The idle adjustment is done with the
secondary.? That is very difficult because that
adjustment screw is only accessible with the carb
off.? The set screw on mine is also frozen so I had
to bend the secondary stop lever to adjust the
secondary idle position.? That requires removing
that lever then using a vice and wrench.? It works
but is a kind of hit and miss approach.? I should
get it right today and finally get it my Cobra out
for a drive.
Wish me luck.? I miss driving it.
Gary in SoCal
On Sunday, May 15, 2022, 06:57:11 PM PDT,
William Sweitzer
<torinoman1@...>
wrote:
Let us know if you find the problem?
?
Thanks Linc and Steve
for your suggestions.? I already
checked the fuel level in the bowl.?
Replacing the power valve was the
first thing I did after checking the
fuel level.
My problem is not
excessive fuel, it is too lean at
idle.? I can get it to near idle if
I hold the choke partially closed..
I think it has
something to do with the idle
circuit.? Possibly, partially
clogged, but I don't know how that
would cause the fog coming out of
the vent.?
I think I will go ahead
a take the carb off and try to
figure out what would cause the fog
in the vent.? Then blow out all the
passages.? I will also make sure the
idle slots are exposed properly.
Gary in SoCal?
When I have signs of
excessive fuel in a Holley
carb, I always check two
things. First is the float
level. If the needle and
seat are stuck open, or the
float is sunken, fuel will
flow out the sight plug
(with the engine running).
The second thing I do is
replace the power valve.?
Steve
I am dealing with a
Holley carburetor that won't
idle after more than 15
years of working very well.?
When I start it cold, it
fires up fine.? When the
choke starts to open up the
engine begins to run
poorly.? It has an electric
choke and I can turn off
power to it.? This keeps the
choke partially closed and
the engine keeps running.?
This tells me it is running
lean.? I have checked for
vacuum leaks and have found
none.? I have some ideas of
what it could be but before
I take the carburetor off
and take it apart, I wanted
to see if any of you have an
idea of what it can be.?
Once it is warned up, I can
de-choke it and it will run
well if I keep the rpm at
1300 or higher.? It sounds
healthy when I do that.? If
I try to lower the rpm, the
rpm begins to drop and
engine slowly dies.? There
are two vent tubes that
stick straight up on top of
the carb. One is in front of
the primary horn and other
is behind the the secondary
horn.? They are both angled
at the top.? ?I don't know
their function but the front
one is doing something I
have never seen before.?
There is kind of a fog/mist
coming out of it.? I can
even feel some small
droplets coming out.? I am
pretty sure that has
something to do with the
problem, but I don't know
what would cause it to do
that.
I plan to take the carb
apart and try to trace the
galley to see if I can
figure out what is casing
the fog.? I am hoping
somebody already knows what
it is.
Gary in SoCal
