开云体育

Power Windows stuck down - any way to raise them?

Michael Diehr All Messages By This Member #152633 My 2000 EVC had the power windows go out and are stuck about 6 inches down, and naturally it's 100F weather. My current goal is just to make it home, at which point I'll debug the electrical issues. Is there any way to manually raise the windows by removing the door panels? thanks!
B Feddish All Messages By This Member #152635 There could be a broken wire in the wiring harness in the door jam.? It may not work but hold the button in the up position and open the door slowly, you "may" find a spot where the wires connect temporally and get the window up. ? You need to address the broken wires when you get home. ? Bryan ? toggle quoted message Show quoted text ------ Original Message ------ From: "md03@... [ev_update]" <ev_update@...> To: ev_update@... Sent: 7/6/2015 4:44:49 PM Subject: [ev_update] Power Windows stuck down - any way to raise them? ? ? My 2000 EVC had the power windows go out and are stuck about 6 inches down, and naturally it's 100F weather. My current goal is just to make it home, at which point I'll debug the electrical issues. Is there any way to manually raise the windows by removing the door panels? thanks!
Bob Williams All Messages By This Member #152636 Try opening the door and then using the switch. If the malfunction is a faulty wire, opening the door sometimes reconnects the wire. I found this out when troubleshooting. Bob W
Michael Diehr All Messages By This Member #152655 Update: we used the old fashioned way of fixing the problem (duct-tape) and made the 1000 mile drive home. Actually, it wasn't duct tape, but rather blue painters tape and Reflectix - fortunately the windows were only 6 inches down so the gap wasn't that hard to keep sealed, but ugh. Now I'm home, and want to tackle the issue. So far the advice has been: 1. Broken wiring in door harness. In fact I've looked at the wires, and it looks like they've already been repaired once. However, no manner of wiggling the wires or opening/closing either door will get any results. Also I have a question: is it possible for BOTH windows and the power mirrors to go out from a single broken wire? Reading prior messages it sounds like that's more likely due to an upstream failure, and that a broken wire would only affect a single door/window. 2. Fuse/relays: is there any relay or fuse that deals with the power windows? Here's a picture of my relay panel: The relay labeled "53", top row, third from the left has what looks like an auto-reset circuit breaker above it (the green metal can). The owners manual mentions an auto-reset breaker for power windows. Could that be it? 3. Power Window Module : is this a separate device? Where is it physically located? 4. Documentation: Obviously, I have no Bentley and the few things I can find online are not very helpful. I'm willing to purchase a Bentley if it has good info - can anyone check to see if the Bentley has a good description of ALL the relays & fuses in a 2000 eurovan camper, and says something specific about power windows? Thanks! toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Jul 6, 2015, at 1:44 PM, md03@... [ev_update] <ev_update@...> wrote: My 2000 EVC had the power windows go out and are stuck about 6 inches down, and naturally it's 100F weather. My current goal is just to make it home, at which point I'll debug the electrical issues. Is there any way to manually raise the windows by removing the door panels? thanks! ------------------------------------ Posted by: md03@... ------------------------------------ To unsubscribe from this group, send a message to mailto:ev_update-unsubscribe@... ------------------------------------ Yahoo Groups Links
Bob Williams All Messages By This Member #152658 In response to question #1, the answer is yes: the brown ground wire. If it is faulty, nothing functions in the wire bundle. The terminus is on a bolt welded to the frame under the driver's side dashboard. When my ground wire broke, I purchased a 36-inch piece of 12 gauge stranded wire at Home Depot, spliced it to the farthest location in the driver's door and put the other end onto the bolt. Bob W
Michael Diehr All Messages By This Member #152660 More info: I pulled the door panel and visually inspected all the harness wires in both doors. Everything looks normal. I tested +12V and Ground continuity in both doors. Everything seems normal. I have other other symptom (the Trigger wire which goes to the house battery relay) is not turning on. There's an article on GoWesty which suggests that this trigger wire is easy to disconnect by accident if you are looking at the relay/fuse box ( see ) so I went ahead and dropped the fusebox and made sure the wire was connected. It was. Next, I started the van running, and verified that the KL15 circuit that it's connected to is dead - I believe that when the van is running it's supposed to be at +12V. You can see the KL15 set of connectors here — it's the Green colored ones. Note that most of the wires here are blue, which is the traditional color for "+12V when engine is running". I believe the input to the KL circuit comes from the Alternator (at least on my old Vanagon that was how it worked). Now I'm back to being suspicious : what if the KL circuit being dead is affecting the power window control module in addition to my house battery relay? I've been reviewing online circuit diagrams but am not seeing clearly how the KL15 circuit is powered. One would expect there would be a relay and/or some fuses involved? toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Jul 8, 2015, at 11:27 AM, 'Robert R. Williams, III' Sea2river@... [ev_update] <ev_update@...> wrote: In response to question #1, the answer is yes: the brown ground wire. If it is faulty, nothing functions in the wire bundle. The terminus is on a bolt welded to the frame under the driver's side dashboard. When my ground wire broke, I purchased a 36-inch piece of 12 gauge stranded wire at Home Depot, spliced it to the farthest location in the driver's door and put the other end onto the bolt. Bob W
Michael Diehr All Messages By This Member #152661 ARGH! Unbelievable!! Power Windows in my 2000 Eurovan Camper are controlled by Fuse #14. There appears to be an error in the user manual, which says "Fuse 14: Backup Lights, Cruise Control, Power Roof". I'm not a complete idiot, and had already checked all the fuses, but apparently missed seeing the tiny break in fuse #14 in poor light. Also, the cruise control worked fine. In conjunction with the documentation error these facts led me seriously astray. I'm still having trouble with the KL15a circuit but that seems to be independent of the power window issue. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Jul 8, 2015, at 1:45 PM, Michael Diehr md03@... [ev_update] <ev_update@...> wrote: More info: I pulled the door panel and visually inspected all the harness wires in both doors. Everything looks normal. I tested +12V and Ground continuity in both doors. Everything seems normal. I have other other symptom (the Trigger wire which goes to the house battery relay) is not turning on. There's an article on GoWesty which suggests that this trigger wire is easy to disconnect by accident if you are looking at the relay/fuse box ( see ) so I went ahead and dropped the fusebox and made sure the wire was connected. It was. Next, I started the van running, and verified that the KL15 circuit that it's connected to is dead - I believe that when the van is running it's supposed to be at +12V. You can see the KL15 set of connectors here — it's the Green colored ones. Note that most of the wires here are blue, which is the traditional color for "+12V when engine is running". I believe the input to the KL circuit comes from the Alternator (at least on my old Vanagon that was how it worked). Now I'm back to being suspicious : what if the KL circuit being dead is affecting the power window control module in addition to my house battery relay? I've been reviewing online circuit diagrams but am not seeing clearly how the KL15 circuit is powered. One would expect there would be a relay and/or some fuses involved? On Jul 8, 2015, at 11:27 AM, 'Robert R. Williams, III' Sea2river@... [ev_update] <ev_update@...> wrote: In response to question #1, the answer is yes: the brown ground wire. If it is faulty, nothing functions in the wire bundle. The terminus is on a bolt welded to the frame under the driver's side dashboard. When my ground wire broke, I purchased a 36-inch piece of 12 gauge stranded wire at Home Depot, spliced it to the farthest location in the driver's door and put the other end onto the bolt. Bob W ------------------------------------ Posted by: Michael Diehr <md03@...> ------------------------------------ To unsubscribe from this group, send a message to mailto:ev_update-unsubscribe@... ------------------------------------ Yahoo Groups Links

Previous Topic Next Topic