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Blower dead?
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What kind of blower are you referring to?
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In a message dated 5/15/2008 11:58:20 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
alonfw@... writes: '95 EVC just bought. Service manual is in route but it is getting hot here and I wish the blower worked. Is there a fuse for it I should check? The fuse box door doesn't list one. Any other known issues I should check? Alon :) ****Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. () |
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alonfw2
The fan blower that pushes heat/vent/AC.
Alon :) --- In ev_update@..., Sea2river@... wrote: family favorites at AOL Food. |
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Didn't you have an issue with a 30 amp fuse blowing in an earlier post?
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A very common issue in the older EV's is the heater fan going bad, which often takes out the three-speed resister pack with it. This is fed by a 30 amp fuse. It sounds like you have lost your heater fan and/or resister pack and that is blowing the fuse. I would not suggest replacing just the resister pack (located near the fan in the duct), since you probably have a bad fan and it will just burn up the new one. If this is the case, you can do a search on this site for the fix. Pete -- In ev_update@..., "alonfw2" <alonfw@...> wrote:
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alonfw2
Thanks Pete, but I have not had any fuse issues yet. Where is that
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30amp fuse located? I will check that first. Alon :) --- In ev_update@..., "Pete Peterson" <tds3pete@...> wrote:
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Sorry about that. I had someone e-mail me last week about a 30 amp fuse
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issue. Your blower fuse is fuse #6 in your fuse panel (behind the storage opening at the driver's knee). It is shown in your VW owners manual. It is the 6th one from the left. Pete --- In ev_update@..., "alonfw2" <alonfw@...> wrote:
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alonfw2
Thanks. The fuse isn't blown, so I gather that leaves the blower
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resister or the blower itself, or both, as the likely culprits. With the switch being an unlikely culprit? I bought it this way so really have no idea if the blower was noisy or acting bad before it stopped. I understand from previous posts that doing the entire blower requires quite a bit of work, including draining the coolent and recharging the AC? Draining the coolent in my case isn't a big deal, probably ought to be done anyway. My Bently manual on CD just arrived today and doesn't seem to indicate all that is needed. But I must say I am not impressed with this manual vs. other factory Manuals I have had :( It seems only marginally better than a Haynes or Chilton :( Alon :) 95 EVC --- In ev_update@..., "Pete Peterson" <tds3pete@...> wrote:
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If you want to eliminate the switch as a possibility, just gain
access to your resistor (take out the glovebox and look way up in to your left) and see if you have 12v hitting it with the switch on. You could also jumper around it to see of the fan will come on. If you do change out the fan, there's no need to drain coolant. Some folks have gone in through the firewall area from the front and separated the fan from it's motor(.....I haven't done this). In my case I went in from behind the glove box, loosened everything I could, then took a dremel tool and cut the plastic shroud carefully to allow the fan assembly to drop out. I then put in a new one, and siliconed the cuts I had to make in the air ducting. This is a bit of a shadetree mechanics fix, but it is commonly done and is solid as a rock when finished. A dealer would take out the whole dash and ductwork. The last quote I heard for this was about $500. There's a couple of threads in the files on this. I paid $95 for the fan from the dealer and $20+ for the resistor pack from Europarts. I think if I did this again, I could do it in under couple of hours easily. It took me about four hours to do the first time. Pete |
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