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EVC Electrical Problem
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jastamford
My 95 was working fine with the coach battery being charged by the
altnator while driving or by shoreline when parked... an THEN! I go on a trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge cold while driving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any juice at the battery with the engine running and the alternator showed 14.5 VDC output at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged the coach battery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have come to the conclusion that there is a relay the switches between the shoreline and the alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; 1) am I correct? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do I change it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's help. |
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There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the engine is
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running (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rear battery. A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them. Usually about $20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There should be 3 wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or nuts holding it to the wall. Can't help with the location, but I'd guess it's pretty close to the rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on it with a non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one. Duane 05HD Rialta --- In ev_update@..., "jastamford" <johnstamford@...> wrote:
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Been there and done that. The solenoid on the EVC is located on the
firewall in the engine compartment above the vehicle battery. Rapping on it is a good suggestion and it may just cure the problem...at least temporarily. Ideally, if you change the solenoid, you should disconnect the negative cable from the both the vehicle and coach batteries should the wrench that you use to loosen the terminals nuts come in contact with an electrical ground point. Alternatively, you could wrap most of the wrench in black electrical tape to preclude contacting ground. Also, once you have removed the wires, do not let them contact ground either. Richard Cox 2002 HD Rialta Former '95 & '97 EVC --- In ev_update@..., "txpigeon" <txpigeon@...> wrote: battery. A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them. Usually aboutbe 3 wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or nutswrote: the go onaltnator while driving or by shoreline when parked... an THEN! I whilea trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge cold thedriving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any juice at VDCbattery with the engine running and the alternator showed 14.5 coachoutput at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged the thebattery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have come to shoreline andconclusion that there is a relay the switches between the Ithe alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; 1) am changecorrect? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do I it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's help. |
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jastamford
Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall just above the
battery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 amp circut-breaker inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and fuse checks out. Questions is, where is the wire's next connection for distribution? --- In ev_update@..., "txpigeon" <txpigeon@...> wrote: battery. A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them. Usually aboutbe 3 wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or nutswrote: the go onaltnator while driving or by shoreline when parked... an THEN! I whilea trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge cold thedriving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any juice at VDCbattery with the engine running and the alternator showed 14.5 coachoutput at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged the thebattery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have come to shoreline andconclusion that there is a relay the switches between the Ithe alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; 1) am changecorrect? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do I it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's help. |
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Look for a circuit breaker or fuse at the coach battery location.
Richard Cox --- In ev_update@..., "jastamford" <johnstamford@...> wrote: breaker inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and fuseabout the$20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There shouldbe 3wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or nuts arear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on it with Inon-metallic object. May get you by until you get one.wrote: go onatwhilea trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge colddriving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any juice thetoVDCbattery with the engine running and the alternator showed 14.5coachoutput at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged thebattery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have come theamshoreline andconclusion that there is a relay the switches between thethe alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; 1) Ichangecorrect? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do Iit? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's help. |
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jack_son_73
The Black [+] lead from non-battery sde of relay
goes to an insulated tie point terminal, just forward of the Converter. The converter is connected to that tie point, & to rear battery [+] terminal - with a Black Wire. There is another circuit breaker near the rear bat. When the converter is NOT connected to shore power, the rear bat is conectred to the 3 DC rear outlets, & appliances, & to the front firewall relay. BTW, on my '03 EVC, I had a very poor crimp on one lug on the front 30A breaker. There was also a defective identical 30A breaker inside the Converter-Charger [excess drop with 6A load], so my rear bat never got a full charge, from alternator or on shore power. I drove back to selling dealer a few weeks after purchase, but they "found nothing wrong" [missed BOTH problems]. Good old Winnie, & VW - who never saw an EVC they welcomed back 'home'. BTW, I used Red and Black electrical tape to chamge color code of ALL of Winebago's "house wiring code", so anyone testing, jumping, etc. would not be confused. No one working on a vehicle ever considers BLACK = Positive. I changed colors as different ends of ALL Winnie wires were exposed while working on my van. Jack_son '03 EVC '01 Passat =============== --In ev_update@..., "jastamford" <johnstamford@.> wrote: breaker inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and fuseabout the$20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There shouldbe 3wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or nuts arear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on it with Inon-metallic object. May get you by until you get one.wrote: go onatwhilea trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge colddriving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any juice thetoVDCbattery with the engine running and the alternator showed 14.5coachoutput at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged thebattery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have come theamshoreline andconclusion that there is a relay the switches between thethe alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; 1) Ichangecorrect? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do Iit? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's help. |
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forest flanigan
If you have a hard time finding a replacement solenoid or can't trace the
problem you can always drive with the fridge on propane . Some folks recommend turning the propane off during fueling but I find no problem with leaving the fridge lit while refueling. If you do turn off the fridge while putting gas in you need a well charged rear battery to get it re lit. Good luck Forest |
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jastamford
Thanks for your input! I have a pdf of the coach wiring instal
diagram and have located a 30 amp breaker by the fuse panel and another by the coach batter, however, there is no indication of a breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer... through the air vents for the heater? --- In ev_update@..., "jack_son_73" <jackr1@...> wrote: is shouldaboutrunning (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rearbattery.A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them. Usually$20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There tobe 3wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or nuts thewithrear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on it abynon-metallic object. May get you by until you get one.wrote: THEN!thealtnator while driving or by shoreline when parked... an Icoldgo ona trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge juicewhiledriving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any at14.5thebattery with the engine running and the alternator showed VDCtocoachoutput at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged thebattery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have cometheamshoreline andconclusion that there is a relay the switches between thethe alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; 1)Ichangecorrect? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do Iit? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's help. |
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jack_son_73
Jas -
I was trying to keep you from having to access the Converter-Charger. It is about 12" forward of the rear power panel, & access requires removing the large plastic panel below the closet. The converter has an internal breaker similar/identical to the ones near the batteries. I needed a larger converter-charger, so I replaced mine with a 45A unit, which puts the full output into my 2 rear bats, in parallel with whatever DC 'house' loads are connected. [Stock unit only had 6A for charging house bat.] If you checked the easier two battery areas, & all seems OK, then you need to remove that long plastic cover to the left of luggage area, below closet. Someone on this list mentioned using Velcro to attach the grill adjacent to the Converter, so he didn't have to remove the whole panel just to get [partial] access to converter. When I put my panel back on, I will do the same. The isolated/insulated tie point is a few inches forward of the converter, where the rear bat, [via converter], & front relay connect. Regards, Jack-son ======================== ---In ev_update@..., "jastamford" <johnstamford@..> wrote: through the air vents for the heater?wrote: the fusebattery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 amp circut-breakerinside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and forchecks out. Questions is, where is the wire's next connection enginedistribution? isUsuallyrunning (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rearbattery.A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them. nutsaboutshould$20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. Therebe 3wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or <johnstamford@>toholding it to the wall. thebywrote: comecoachbattery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have 1)totheshoreline andconclusion that there is a relay the switches between thethe alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; IamIcorrect? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do help.changeit? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's |
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John Stamford
Jack-son,
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Thanks, exactly what I didn't want to hear! Was your original converter a Magtech or something else? You say it has an internal breaker... in the converter or an add-on like the one in the coach battery box. I opened the access door to the converter which is accessable through the double grill and found some piss poor wiring connections which I redid. Regards, John ----- Original Message -----
From: jack_son_73<mailto:jackr1@...> To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...> Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 11:23 AM Subject: [ev_update] Re: EVC Electrical Problem Jas - I was trying to keep you from having to access the Converter-Charger. It is about 12" forward of the rear power panel, & access requires removing the large plastic panel below the closet. The converter has an internal breaker similar/identical to the ones near the batteries. I needed a larger converter-charger, so I replaced mine with a 45A unit, which puts the full output into my 2 rear bats, in parallel with whatever DC 'house' loads are connected. [Stock unit only had 6A for charging house bat.] If you checked the easier two battery areas, & all seems OK, then you need to remove that long plastic cover to the left of luggage area, below closet. Someone on this list mentioned using Velcro to attach the grill adjacent to the Converter, so he didn't have to remove the whole panel just to get [partial] access to converter. When I put my panel back on, I will do the same. The isolated/insulated tie point is a few inches forward of the converter, where the rear bat, [via converter], & front relay connect. Regards, Jack-son ======================== ---In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@..> wrote: > > Thanks for your input! I have a pdf of the coach wiring instal > diagram and have located a 30 amp breaker by the fuse panel and > another by the coach batter, however, there is no indication of a > breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer... through > the air vents for the heater? > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jack_son_73" <jackr1@> wrote: > > > > The Black [+] lead from non-battery sde of relay > > goes to an insulated tie point terminal, just > > forward of the Converter. The converter is > > connected to that tie point, & to > > rear battery [+] terminal - with a Black Wire. > > There is another circuit breaker near the rear > > bat. When the converter is NOT connected to > > shore power, the rear bat is conectred to the > > 3 DC rear outlets, & appliances, & to the front > > firewall relay. > > > > BTW, on my '03 EVC, I had a very poor crimp on > > one lug on the front 30A breaker. There was also > > a defective identical 30A breaker inside the > > Converter-Charger [excess drop with 6A load], so > > my rear bat never got a full charge, from > > alternator or on shore power. I drove back to > > selling dealer a few weeks after purchase, but > > they "found nothing wrong" [missed BOTH problems]. > > Good old Winnie, & VW - who never saw an EVC they > > welcomed back 'home'. > > > > BTW, I used Red and Black electrical tape to > > chamge color code of ALL of Winebago's "house > > wiring code", so anyone testing, jumping, etc. > > would not be confused. No one working on a vehicle > > ever considers BLACK = Positive. I changed colors > > as different ends of ALL Winnie wires were exposed > > while working on my van. > > > > Jack_son > > '03 EVC '01 Passat > > =============== > > --In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@> wrote: > > > > > > Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall just above the > > > battery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 amp circut- > > breaker > > > inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and fuse > > > checks out. Questions is, where is the wire's next connection for > > > distribution? > > > > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote: > > > > > > > > There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the engine > is > > > > running (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rear > > > battery. > > > > A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them. Usually > > about > > > > $20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There > should > > > be 3 > > > > wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or nuts > > > > holding it to the wall. > > > > > > > > Can't help with the location, but I'd guess it's pretty close > to > > the > > > > rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on it > with > > a > > > > non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one. > > > > > > > > Duane > > > > 05HD Rialta > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@> > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > My 95 was working fine with the coach battery being charged > by > > > the > > > > > altnator while driving or by shoreline when parked... an > THEN! > > I > > > go on > > > > > a trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge > cold > > > while > > > > > driving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any > juice > > at > > > the > > > > > battery with the engine running and the alternator showed > 14.5 > > > VDC > > > > > output at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged the > > > coach > > > > > battery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have come > > to > > > the > > > > > conclusion that there is a relay the switches between the > > > shoreline and > > > > > the alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; 1) > > am > > > I > > > > > correct? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do I > > > change > > > > > it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's help. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
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John Stamford
Forest, thanks for the suggestion. I had thought about it, but my wife is a little safety crazy. On second thought, I will do that until I pin point the 12 volt problem. Regards, John
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----- Original Message -----
From: forest flanigan<mailto:creoflan@...> To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...> Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 8:06 AM Subject: Re: [ev_update] EVC Electrical Problem If you have a hard time finding a replacement solenoid or can't trace the problem you can always drive with the fridge on propane . Some folks recommend turning the propane off during fueling but I find no problem with leaving the fridge lit while refueling. If you do turn off the fridge while putting gas in you need a well charged rear battery to get it re lit. Good luck Forest |
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jack_son_73
John -
Yes, my original Converter was a Magnetek 30A unit, & it had an internal breaker, with excess voltage drop through it. Since only 6A of the 30 was used for charging, I never got much of a charge. It is about a $10-15 item, & would only take 1 minute to replace, once you have the Magnetek out, & open. I wanted higher DC output, so found the 45A model on EBay - NIB. They were taken over by Parallax, who has similar units with their name on them. If your problem is that internal breaker, get one like the front breaker on firewall left of battery. While tracing your problem, don't overlook ALL wires & crimped lugs done by Winnebago. They did poor work, & perhaps the same guy was "Quality" inspector. I kept my original Magnetek in case I had a problem with the replacement one, but it's never malfunctioned. I should have looked harder for a better replacement for my Magnetek. I understand someone makes a Converter-Charger-Inverter [sine wave]. It would be great to have a 3-in-one, even with limited Inverter power. Let us know what you find. Regards, Jack_son =============== --In ev_update@..., "John Stamford" <johnstamford@...> wrote: converter a Magtech or something else? You say it has an internal breaker... in the converter or an add-on like the one in the coach battery box. I opened the access door to the converter which is accessable through the double grill and found some piss poor wiring connections which I redid. 40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@> wrote: >a > breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer...40yahoogroups.com>, "jack_son_73" <jackr1@> wrote: > >40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@> wrote:above thecircut- > > breakerconnection for40yahoogroups.com>, "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote: > > > >rear > > > battery.close > toit > with40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@>charged > byan > THEN!refridge > coldany > juiceshowed > 14.5recharged thehave comethe > > > shoreline andis; 1)how do Ianyone's help. |
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John Stamford
Jack-son,
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Thanks for all of the additional information. It's Monday and back to work... I will probably remove the panel this weekend and I will let you know what I find. Regards, John ----- Original Message -----
From: jack_son_73<mailto:jackr1@...> To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...> Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 6:39 PM Subject: [ev_update] Re: EVC Electrical Problem John - Yes, my original Converter was a Magnetek 30A unit, & it had an internal breaker, with excess voltage drop through it. Since only 6A of the 30 was used for charging, I never got much of a charge. It is about a $10-15 item, & would only take 1 minute to replace, once you have the Magnetek out, & open. I wanted higher DC output, so found the 45A model on EBay - NIB. They were taken over by Parallax, who has similar units with their name on them. If your problem is that internal breaker, get one like the front breaker on firewall left of battery. While tracing your problem, don't overlook ALL wires & crimped lugs done by Winnebago. They did poor work, & perhaps the same guy was "Quality" inspector. I kept my original Magnetek in case I had a problem with the replacement one, but it's never malfunctioned. I should have looked harder for a better replacement for my Magnetek. I understand someone makes a Converter-Charger-Inverter [sine wave]. It would be great to have a 3-in-one, even with limited Inverter power. Let us know what you find. Regards, Jack_son =============== --In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...>, "John Stamford" <johnstamford@...> wrote: > > Jack-son, > > Thanks, exactly what I didn't want to hear! Was your original converter a Magtech or something else? You say it has an internal breaker... in the converter or an add-on like the one in the coach battery box. I opened the access door to the converter which is accessable through the double grill and found some piss poor wiring connections which I redid. > > Regards, John > ----- Original Message ----- > From: jack_son_73<mailto:jackr1@...> > To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...><mailto:ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...>> > Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 11:23 AM > Subject: [ev_update] Re: EVC Electrical Problem > > > Jas - > > I was trying to keep you from having to access the > Converter-Charger. It is about 12" forward of the > rear power panel, & access requires removing the > large plastic panel below the closet. The converter > has an internal breaker similar/identical to the > ones near the batteries. > > I needed a larger converter-charger, so I replaced > mine with a 45A unit, which puts the full output > into my 2 rear bats, in parallel with whatever DC > 'house' loads are connected. [Stock unit only had > 6A for charging house bat.] > > If you checked the easier two battery areas, & all > seems OK, then you need to remove that long plastic > cover to the left of luggage area, below closet. > > Someone on this list mentioned using Velcro to attach > the grill adjacent to the Converter, so he didn't > have to remove the whole panel just to get [partial] > access to converter. When I put my panel back on, I > will do the same. > > The isolated/insulated tie point is a few inches > forward of the converter, where the rear bat, [via > converter], & front relay connect. > > Regards, > > Jack-son > ======================== > ---In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...><mailto:ev_update% 40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@> wrote: > > > > Thanks for your input! I have a pdf of the coach wiring instal > > diagram and have located a 30 amp breaker by the fuse panel and > > another by the coach batter, however, there is no indication of a > > breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer... > through > > the air vents for the heater? > > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...><mailto:ev_update% 40yahoogroups.com>, "jack_son_73" <jackr1@> wrote: > > > > > > The Black [+] lead from non-battery sde of relay > > > goes to an insulated tie point terminal, just > > > forward of the Converter. The converter is > > > connected to that tie point, & to > > > rear battery [+] terminal - with a Black Wire. > > > There is another circuit breaker near the rear > > > bat. When the converter is NOT connected to > > > shore power, the rear bat is conectred to the > > > 3 DC rear outlets, & appliances, & to the front > > > firewall relay. > > > > > > BTW, on my '03 EVC, I had a very poor crimp on > > > one lug on the front 30A breaker. There was also > > > a defective identical 30A breaker inside the > > > Converter-Charger [excess drop with 6A load], so > > > my rear bat never got a full charge, from > > > alternator or on shore power. I drove back to > > > selling dealer a few weeks after purchase, but > > > they "found nothing wrong" [missed BOTH problems]. > > > Good old Winnie, & VW - who never saw an EVC they > > > welcomed back 'home'. > > > > > > BTW, I used Red and Black electrical tape to > > > chamge color code of ALL of Winebago's "house > > > wiring code", so anyone testing, jumping, etc. > > > would not be confused. No one working on a vehicle > > > ever considers BLACK = Positive. I changed colors > > > as different ends of ALL Winnie wires were exposed > > > while working on my van. > > > > > > Jack_son > > > '03 EVC '01 Passat > > > =============== > > > --In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...><mailto:ev_update% 40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@> > wrote: > > > > > > > > Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall just above > the > > > > battery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 amp circut- > > > breaker > > > > inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and > fuse > > > > checks out. Questions is, where is the wire's next connection > for > > > > distribution? > > > > > > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...><mailto:ev_update% 40yahoogroups.com>, "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the > engine > > is > > > > > running (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rear > > > > battery. > > > > > A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them. > Usually > > > about > > > > > $20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There > > should > > > > be 3 > > > > > wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or > nuts > > > > > holding it to the wall. > > > > > > > > > > Can't help with the location, but I'd guess it's pretty close > > to > > > the > > > > > rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on it > > with > > > a > > > > > non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one. > > > > > > > > > > Duane > > > > > 05HD Rialta > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...><mailto:ev_update% 40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" > <johnstamford@> > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > My 95 was working fine with the coach battery being charged > > by > > > > the > > > > > > altnator while driving or by shoreline when parked... an > > THEN! > > > I > > > > go on > > > > > > a trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge > > cold > > > > while > > > > > > driving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any > > juice > > > at > > > > the > > > > > > battery with the engine running and the alternator showed > > 14.5 > > > > VDC > > > > > > output at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged > the > > > > coach > > > > > > battery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have > come > > > to > > > > the > > > > > > conclusion that there is a relay the switches between the > > > > shoreline and > > > > > > the alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; > 1) > > > am > > > > I > > > > > > correct? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do > I > > > > change > > > > > > it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's > help. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Duane
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