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Hello gentlemen I’m new here and new to vintage Emco machines too :) my background is marine engineering and I have questions about my new machine that more experienced ppl will likely know ! First issue and the main one is the mill motor spins over but has no torque, you can stop the spindle by hand even in low gear …… the motor wiring looks suspect to me v’s the wiring diagram at some point the 4core cable has been replaced and the coulors do not match which is a pain ! first wire issues are two of the motor wires were joined together not per drawing, Earth ok so I would need a technique to I’d the wires at the motor end and replace the cable for the correct coulor code next question : Is there a controller for the motor or just a simple switch ? next question : Is there a manual for the mill only ? I have the standard manual with some details but not what I would consider a full manual / leads onto ….. how to adjust the spindle bearings if at all possible? I think that covers the main points if any folk can help ! cheers R

I’ve attached a picture of what appears to be a mushroomed shear pin. Does it look original? It feels like it’s made of aluminum. If not I believe I have some rods of aluminum that should fit. Is there a trick to removing the lead screw from the gear box. I’d like to remove the gear box to remove contaminants from the bottom of the box. Strangely the gears in the gear box look ok. Lastly there is a piece of plexiglass running along the center of the bed. Any idea how to remove it?

This is the way I've finally gone to get a version of 3 phase 440v power to my lathe and mill. It can run both motors at once which is ideal for x-y feed using the lathe motor. I would like to thank all for the previous advice and experience helping me to make my decision which initially began over 12 months ago (poor health delays). It is a Taiwanese make , Tecco E510 series inverter installed all in for $1700(the unit retails here for upto $1750) which is a hell of alot cheaper than pretty much every other option here in Australia, they don't miss us here. Has anyone else used this brand / model or has any recommendations regarding extra protection with filters and such I have been watching keenly about issues using vfds on these older motors. Regards Glenn

Hello All, The clean up on my V10 continues! I’ve taken the mill off to clean up some corrosion on the column. I saw a post where someone had spun it on the lathe with sandpaper. I was going to do something similar but thought it best to check with the group first. Below is a photo of the worst of the corrosion. Any suggestions on how best to clean this up? Thanks, Josh

Hi fellow chip makers, Here is a link to a collection of 34 photos of my lathe & mill that I am selling. https://photos.app.goo.gl/mp2Nw3TLcAPWqeyu8 You will see that things are generally in good shape. However, in Sep 2022 Hurricane Ian hit Florida and the storm surge here put 18 inches of water into my shop. Things in the cabinet in the lathe stand and things in the bottom drawers around my shop were indunated in salt water. Having to first address the home, I just sprayed WD-40 on everything and let it be for a month or so. Things above the 18 inch mark were fine. You can tell which things were below the water. Some things have been thrown away. Mainly my spare parts for the lathe. I had a backup control button box in the bottom drawer that turned to a green blob. Oh well, here's what I have to sell. $3000 for everything, incuding the green cabinet to the left of the lathe. You come get it. I brought it down from Dayton, OH by flying to Dayton, renting a Penske truck and driving it down to Florida. I took it apart and used a refridgerator mover to get it up the stairs. Let me know, Carey -- Emco V10P with mill and many tools. New 1984 from my wife's uncle. I brought it to Florida from Dayton in 2006 and have used it to turn plastic, brass, aluminum and the odd steel part. It all works. I am moving and have decided to sell the lathe. Anyone interested, or interested in more information please let me know. Video of the lathe in action - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxvo4YvowqY

The shift levers / forks on my newly acquired V10-P don’t seem to work. In truth, the left selector/fork will engage to the right if I rotate the large delrin gear so the teeth mate with the large delrin gear. It’s not moving much when I try to disengage to the left. I wasn’t able to post a video directly but was able to post to Imgur (which can be linked as follows: https://i.imgur.com/KwXmxzf.mp4 ) Is this a common problem with hopefully an easy fix or am I looking at a rebuild? I also tried inserting a link using the groups.io system. https://i.imgur.com/KwXmxzf.mp4 Thanks in advance for any help.

Good morning. I just acquired a V10-P which externally looks to have been well maintained. I have yet to get it into my shop and will likely have many more questions as I begin to clean it up. My initial challenge is getting the lathe out of my truck and I’m working to remove any extra weight including the chuck. Before I damage anything I thought I would reach out on the proper method of removing the Emco branded three jaw chuck. I’ve loosened what appears to be a locking screw behind the chuck but I am curious as to the next steps (pull off, screw off, ??). If screw off, what do you clamp onto? I’ve seen an instructional video where there are slots in the back of the spindle but those don’t exist on mine. I’ve attached a picture in case it helps. Thanks in advance for what may seem like a silly question. I’ve been using a Compact 5 for the last few years and I suspect there are quite a few differences between the two machines that I’ll be learning about. David

Hi All, It's come around time to start working on the Blue V10 so I can get her ready to sell (I need the space) and I need to swap the innards of the Norton boxes. If you remember a few years ago I got a V10P in very nice condition that was Imperial and while I was cleaning it up & repainting it I swapped it over to Metric using some of the parts from the Blue V10, I managed to pick up a Metric V10p norton box so that made things easier but now I need to put the V10 to Imperial (because I don't have the other parts in Metric) and without the aid of a spare Imperial V10 Norton box I need to strip the gears out of the Imperial V10p Norton and swap them with the Metric V10 Norton. (hopefully this will also yield a spare V10p Metric box at the end of this, any takers for a fair price?). So far I have the V10 gearbox empty and the V10p just has the 7-gear spindle left in it but I just can't get it out. I have both of the roll pins out of the shaft and there's a small amount of movement of the shaft when I tap it with a drift from either end but after about 2mm it just stops, I'm afraid if I belt it too hard I'll break the casting. Any suggestions of anything I might have missed or is it just a case of pressure/impact and possibly heat to get it out? Many Thanks Tim (Hereford, UK)

Hello all ,guys I have the opportunity to buy original size ,grinding wheels from the renowned company TYROLIT 65x6x16 mm ( grid M80, M60 depends on what we want, but only one type of grid for all wheels ), unfortunately the minimum quantity is 50 pieces, the price for one including taxes is 12 eu, I would like to ask if anyone is interested, and how many pieces you will require ? Thank you all for quick answer ,my regards Roman

Hello everybody, I am new to the group. I just got Maximat V10 milling column attached to a very heavy metal base connected to Sweden made xy table. So no lathe. I have a no much experience in metal working, but nevertheless I like to start good and new. Recently I started to inspection the mashine, I opened the gear case and I found 2 things: 1 - the small squared brass piece (used for transporting the gears up and down) was laying inside at the bottom of the case (see pic). 2 - part of the grease inside seemed to be old (see pics) 1 > At that point I put back the brass on the arm and everything worked just fine. Actually I was able to change the gear position even without the brass, even thou I think it wasn’t the best. Does anybody know why this actually happened? I can’t really understand how this little piece of brass could came out from its arm, because the position it has “locks” it against its spot on the gears post. One thing to say: the milling column has been transported and stored horizontally inside a wooden box. Might it fell down during this time? 2 > Regarding the grease, I was now thinking to remove as much as possible from the 2 lateral windows without disassembling everything, and filling in a new one. Now, I already read many threads regarding which grease to use. I wanted to stick to the NLGI 1 lithium-based one advice on the manual, but I actually can’t find fine one like this that is synthetic. The only SYNTHETIC and LITHIUM based I found is a NLGI 2. The NLGI 1 I found comes always as MINERAL and LITHIUM based. Can somebody recommend me a NGLI 1 synthetic and lithium-based? Or would the NLG1 mineral and lithium based work as well? Or is it crucial to actually put NGLI 1? Would the NGLI 2 work as well? 3 > Regarding oil for the vertical leadscrew and vertical column, SAE 10 motor oil, correct? Thanks in advance

Hello. I bought an Emcomat 7 with a Δ/YY 220V, motor supplied by someone earlier. The previous owner tried to connect the lathe with a VFD, but the motor does not work correctly (no second speed). The Run Capacitor is missing. The motor wires are all brown and some have been painted in poorly visible colors by someone. Please help with the actual diagram of the motor connection. We have 220v single-phase network. Regards, Anton.