I thought I might mention and also ask for some help concerning accessories for my
V-10 p in addition to offering help and some hopefully accurate notes.
I have a lovely V10-p and also an older V10 in not very good shape that is gathering
dust as a parts machine. The two main problems with these lathes appear to be the
micarta (fiber, whatever) headstock gears and the electrical switching arrangement on the
headstock.
As for the electrical switch, if you've got a good one and it's still working, get yourself a
junction box and an on/off switch that you can plug into the machine. Keep the machine
switched off as you gently select the headstock switches to depress, then when you've
done so, actually turn the machine on and off with the switch on the junction box.
Whenever I push the headstock switches on and off with my machine, the machine is
powered off. This allows me to take care of the switches. I'd like to keep the machine
original for fun although VFD has a whole lot of appeal.
Once in a while, spare switches do come up on ebay. I bought one last year for about
$170.
Regarding the fiber headstock gears, Blue Ridge will sell them to you still if you twist
their arm, but they'll cost you several hundred bucks. This seems a bit too much for me,
so I'm planning on making an extra set and figure I'll shell out for the cutter. Steve
Stallings, of the Chesapeake Area Metalworking Society (CAMS) recently gave me a huge
chunk of fiber gear material and I'm going to take apart the headstock of the thrashed V10
to reproduce some fiber gears at some point. To that end, I've got an order into Blue Ridge
for the EMCO rotary table/dividing head. They actually had three in stock but all three had
their handles broken off. New ones are about three or four weeks out at this point.
While the EMCO rotary table is quite expensive, I think it's important to mention that it
really is still available, so that's one major original accessory you can still get. They come
up on ebay fairly often, but sell for almost exactly the same price that Blue Ridge still has
them for - around $550. Make sure you order the adaptor plate for the lathe chucks if you
decide to go this route. I believe it's still available for the short taper three bolt spindle
mounting. It used to come with a bushing that centers everything up on the rotary table.
T bolts for the table can still be had, but I've made my own because they're so dear
from Blue Ridge. It looks to me like the lateral cross slide stop for most of these lathes is
also available.
About Blue Ridge...I find them helpful, but I've also found it useful to study lots of
literature about something before calling them up. It kind of gently helps to remind them
how things go together before asking if they have something...You can hardly blame them,
the V10, V10-p has been out of production for many years at this point.
Back to the fiber headstock gears...Blue Ridge says they're simply pressed on their steel
centers. I find that hard to believe, but there you go.
Regarding my junk V10...my interest is in the headstock fiber gears, so if you need
some other part, please let me know. It has a quick change gearbox that's pretty stiff but if
you need one, email me at "cmorrill@..." I'll part with it for $100 bucks if you'll
pay shipping.
The other headstock parts are also up for grabs. I do not have a compound or a
tailstock for this machine. I believe it's 220 single phase. I have no idea about the motor
and the headstock electrical switch is a mess. The tumble reverse gears are busted, but
the carriage handwheels might prove useful to someone as might the lathe bed itself.
Speaking of busted gears...it's generally a bad idea to take an intermittant cut with
these lathes or their associated mill heads. I wouldn't use a fly cutter with the mill head,
for example. Saw a mill head on ebay last year that had been done in by someone
attempting to use a fly cutter.
Hope some of this info helps, and if I'm wrong, please feel free to correct it.
Someday I'd like to purchase one of the toolpost grinders for the V10 that keep turning
up on ebay every six months or so. Interestingly, the business Little Machine Shop has a
Chinese one for sale that looks very much like the EMCO, though probably not made as
well. Hey, it might do in a pinch.
I'm currently building a Shumatech DRO for my maximat.
I might also mention that some of the kits from Metal Lathe Accessories will fit the
Maximat just fine. I'm building the ball turning toolpost and have built the carriage stop
and find it works to a t. I've just got to get some proper green paint.
Anyone else got an idea of what EMCO parts and accessories are still available? I'd love
a steady rest, either fixed or traveling, but these seem two of the hardest things to come
by. Anyone go to Cabin Fever back in 2005? Guy showed up with a mint V10-p including
a pile of accessories. Yup, mint. Incredible. So, I guess the parts are out there.

Cheers, Charles Morrill aka "Waumbek"

开云体育

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "Charles Morrill"
<chasfred2002@...> wrote:

...Lots of interesting stuff.

Hi Charles. Thanks for the long post about V10p.

I have three emco lathes, C8, V10P and Super-11.
They obviously have a common heritage and many of
the parts are interchangeable. I guess this
is why I ended up with three lathes. My C8 spindle
accessories fit my V10P. The whole S11 compound would
fit the V10P; the mount spacings are the same.
I got tired of looking for accessories and then
bought a S11; D1-4 mount and 5c collets open up
a new world of options.

My v10p still has a functioning switch and electrics.
If the motor/switch were to die I would go to a VFD and
a 3 phase motor. The 3ph motors are readily available
in the US at ~120.00-150.00. The motor is a standard
European frame.

Blue Ridge has 3ph motors for the lathe for ~360.00. OUCH!

I have yet to strip a gear.
How do you plan to make the gears? are you going to buy
a gear cutter set? or are you going to make a hob? If you
figure out the gear dimensions and specs I would be
grateful if you were to share them with me. I would
like to have that information "just in case"



I have built two Shumatechs DROs and I have one mounted
on my mill and I am half done mounting one to my V10P.
I would be interested to see how you mount your scales
to your machine. Similarly, I would be glad to show you
how I will do mine. I have the X axis done and
am planning/doing the y axis (cross slide) now.
Are you using glass/quadrature scales? or the
Chinese scales?
I have all the parts to build a third Shumatech.
In my opinion, the Chinese scales and cables are the
weakest point of the Shumatechs. Also given the time and effort
and cost of making the shumatech, it is not clear it
is that great a deal. The folks over at the shumatech
group seem to worship the things.... I think they are
pretty good but if I had to do it over again, I might
try to find a used "name brand". The Shumatechs have
their quirks. A set of glass scales (Jenix) for the
V10P/S11 cost about 330.00 (6 inch + 28 inch).
Plus the Jenix scales are BIG; not a problem for
the x axis but a PIA for the y.


Good luck and let us know if you stumble across
any EMCO treasure troves.

-Almus

Thanks for your reply Almus.

> I have yet to strip a gear.

How do you plan to make the gears? are you going to buy
a gear cutter set? or are you going to make a hob? If you
figure out the gear dimensions and specs I would be
grateful if you were to share them with me. I would
like to have that information "just in case"

I was planning on purchasing a gear cutter from Blue Ridge as they probably
know exactly what I'll need. Was thinking of pressing the Sheldon shaper into
use, but I don't think a single point tool will cut the fiber all that well.
I've been told the fiber was used to cut down on noise, but I'm not sure this
is so.
As regards the Shumatech DRO...I think you're right about the cost but I've always
wanted to build one and have an extra six inch Chinese scale left over from another
project. What the heck, it's kind of fun to get out the soldering iron.
Speaking of Emco stuff, do you know if EMCO made a single version of their
toolpost grinder, or several? There's one on ebay now and I'm wondering if it would
work for the V10-p
Many thanks.

Waumbek

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "Charles Morrill"
<chasfred2002@...> wrote:

Thanks for your reply Almus.

I was planning on purchasing a gear cutter from Blue Ridge as

they probably

know exactly what I'll need. Was thinking of pressing the Sheldon

shaper into

use, but I don't think a single point tool will cut the fiber all

that well.

I've been told the fiber was used to cut down on noise, but I'm

not sure this

is so.
As regards the Shumatech DRO...I think you're right about the

cost but I've always

wanted to build one and have an extra six inch Chinese scale left

over from another

project. What the heck, it's kind of fun to get out the soldering iron.
Speaking of Emco stuff, do you know if EMCO made a single

version of their

toolpost grinder, or several? There's one on ebay now and I'm

wondering if it would

work for the V10-p

I have a tool post grinder. I purchased it from someone who
used it on their V10P. He said it was for a S11.
Apparently it fits both. But I have not used it yet. A gentleman
I corresponded with had a whole bunch of V10P stuff that he sold
me as a package; grinder, change gears , Uni quadrant, stop,
Thread dial... The guy who sold me the grinder said that he
used it twice. I am not sure when I would use it. But now
that I have it I will have to think of a reason.

Good luck with the Shumatech. I often curse the Chinese scales
They have too many idiosyncracies. I can understand why no
one who used a lathe professionally would use a chinese-scale
based DRO. They are prone to failure. You can just get
a chinese 6 inch caliper for 15 dollars, modify it with a dremel
tool and you are set. Long ~28inch chinese scales are comparable
in cost to glass qudrature scales.

Yes indeed the fiber gears are much quieter than the steel ones.
My super 11 is very noticeably noiser.

I have the dvd on making a gears which involves making a gear hob.
Pretty straightforward.

Have you tried Boston gear? It is possible that you could get
gears that would work but may need modification of the bore.

Good luck,.

-Almus